I had the pleasure of meeting Hugo here in NYC at a private home party. When he walked in the room, it was as if no one else was dressed. He carried elegance, style and warmth like nothing I’ve seen before. Hugo embodies what he speaks.
Words to live by... "You buy a shirt at the shirtmaker, you buy your shoes at the shoemaker, & you buy your suit at the suitmaker". I've lost count of the number of people I've said this to. Well said, sir!
I love the way a good cotton dress shirt, freshly laundered and pressed, luxuriously envelopes the body. I used to believe that dress shirts had to be uncomfortable due to having mostly polyester shirts, but once I invested in some good cotton shirts my opinion changed completely.
Sartorial Talks are a Godsend to me! I teach business English in Moscow to top-managers. The Russian people I deal with are very cultured, highly educated, classy, and kind. So, I am very grateful for your advice, and that of your wonderful wife. Without your help, this Canadian, born of English parents, would have a harder go at my amazing job. Большое спасибо сэр! (Thank you very much sir)
I feel very blessed to have found your channel. As a reseller on eBay and Amazon, I am always on the hunt for high end clothing for my store. The education you provide opens my eyes to new brands, styles, and how to identify better quality. I stick to shoes and shirts. I believe suits should only be purchased through a shop that can tailor and adjust to fit. Buying suits online is like ordering a wife. They rarely work out. We have, as a culture, lost the art of looking good and taking pride in our appearance. Through channels like yours the younger generations have a chance to learn and grow and teach the next. Thank you for all you do.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for your quick response Hugo, I agree with with Atlantic Picture maybe a collaboration or an interview with a watch expert would be attractive. As always your content is great, regards.
Wonderful Mr Hugo !! You are a indeed a asset to our industry who guides us to actually understand what is dressing all about. Indeed pleasure learning from your experiences. Thanks for giving back with all warmth and love. Looking forward to hear more from you.
I do appreciate this great content .... general De Gaulle was a great french statesman... I know this because my Grand father was decorated by him post liberating France...the General refused to strip my Grand Father from his medals and military honors once he was discovered that he flipped side and joined the National Syrian Resistence ....the General refused to dishonor my Grandfather ...some one in the war ministry told my father that is the same reason he was granted a state sponsor scholarship to continue his studies for his master and double major PHD from Leon university .... The General didnot forget that my grand father fought for him against Vichy's government during times of hardship and inflected some heavy damage against the Vichies .... he respected the national asperation of the Syrians to become an independent state ...he respected that .... for this ...The general despite some harsh critizim agaisnt him from historians will remain one of the great leaders of our time. Thank you Mr. Jacomet. PS: wearing some underwear shirt under your formal shirt is essential if you sweat a lot.
My dream one day is that people be back to dressing well and consciously like the old times and Hugo is one of the pillar of this dream and hope to become a reality. Great work Hugo! I look up onto you! Love from Philippines 🇵🇭
I wear my shirts on my skin most of the time. I add an undershirt only in two cases: extreme cold, where the extra layer just makes me a little warmer, and high heat, where I'm worried about sweating all over a nice shirt. In farsi, we call an undershirt an "aragh geer" -- aragh meaning sweat, and geer meaning stuck.
To me an undershirt gives benefits that I cannot let go of: reducing sweat stains (and sweating in general), increasing the longevity of shirts. I've always been prone to getting sweaty, armpits and when I didn't wear undershirts my shirts would last maybe a year or two until the armpits had stains that wouldn't wash away. For me the material has to be very thin, tan or grey in color and always a V-neck to not show through the shirt. Undershirt is very necessary for me and it doesn't make wearing a shirt any less comfortable or elegant. I'm European (not French though).
shaunacole1 not true. An undershirt has an utterly minimal impact on causing someone to sweat more than they already would. For someone who sweats a lot, the benefits of the extra layer of an undershirt far outweigh any minuscule affect an undershirt would have on actually making someone sweat more.
Thank you for including some indications as to how to get started on a budget. This is so important for young folk or for older people such as myself who do not have the means to buy expensive garments yet have the desire to look and dress better
Your son sure has an amazing sartorial heritage he can enjoy! It’s one reason I’m willing to invest in quality garments and shoes myself hoping to one day be able to pass them on to my son with pride!
Mr. Jocomet thank you so much for the Sartorial passion that you share with us. Now we know you have huge shirt collection and is not so easy to share all of them. But we were so happy to see some of your favorites. Greetings from Turkey/Kayseri
Hugo and Sonya, thanks for everything you do. You mentioned the possibility of doing a video about the types of cotton for shirts and their qualities. I'd be very interested in that and I believe your other fans would too.
Dear Sir, we have 80K subscribers on the English speaking channel (in only 52 videos) but also 35K subscribers on the French speaking channel. That makes 115K loyal and super active subscribers. A real community we are proud of. Thank you for your encouragement ! Hugo
Feels good to know that you Mr. Jacomet started your journey with Brooks Brothers, T.M Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt, because that's where I started, and now inspired by you I'm transitioning to MTM high quality shirts. Great episode!
It’s amazing what five years did to some of the pricing. Tyrwitt is something like $65 a shirt on the specials. Turnbull and Asser, on the other hand was slightly under $600 for their cheapest shirts vs $225-250 when the video was made five years ago.
I had a very rough week, having to redo a video 3 times because of audio issues (I'm sure you can understand my pain, Hugo, being a director yourself) and when all was said and done, this came up, and I couldn't have chosen something better to brighten up the night. Thank you as always, and God bless you, Hugo!
I have recently found this channel. Talk about having that gentleman's elegance! I live in Texas and I have to wear an undershirt, the sweating one can do in the Texas heat is immense. June, July, August, and September all average around 90-F and higher. April - May it's 70-F or more at times, and October - November it's the same. I am learning so much from watching these talks. Thank you.
I live in Sydney Australia however my children both have French partners. Consequently, I visit Paris once ever one or two years. After watching this video I could not resist visiting Charvet. After explaining that I would love to own one of their shirts but it was out of my price range they very kindly gave me a personal tour of each level of their shop including the floor with all the bolts of cloth you mentioned. It was a fabulous experience.
Please forgive me if this has been said here before, the undershirt is worm to one save the shirt itself, ie. from accumulating sweat and oils from the skin of the wearer. Secondly it can provide a compliment to the shirt. For example I have pale skin so white is no problem for me but if you have dark skin it can make a white shirt look off. For me dark shirts like black look off so I wear a black undershirt and get that oil slick black look, that depth of color. I hope my long winded explanation helps a bit. GB
This is quickly becoming my primary information source on sartorial topics. I may have discovered my new favorite shirt maker in Turnbull & Asser through viewing this video.
Hello Sir, I truly feel privileged to get this valuable knowledge from You. Last week I started a search on how & why Men’s shirts are as you describe them, as of now. The search is now over, since you have given me, more than I could ever ask for. Thank You so Very much, I hardly can wait for the next episode to launch - there’s so much valuable knowledge here that it’s hard to get my hands down. Thank you 🙏🏻 so much 👌🏻 Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰
You really need to give us a video about how you get such an amazing shimmer on your silver hair :) it looks fantastic. Sets off your suits beautifully. Thank you for the excellent content of your videos. You both do a great job.
Thank you Di. Well, to be honest I don't do anything particular. I just wash my hair every day (or every other day when possible) and I NEVER use a blow dryer. I just let it dry by itself. Best regards, Hugo
my non expensive dress shirt collection is filled almost exclusively with charles tyrwhitt. its not as inexpensive as he says, but it is definitely the best quality shirt in this price range
You're right that fit is crucial but it is tricky to find shirts which fit because they have to follow the body's form quite closely. i couldn't find a single shirt in Jermyn street which fit me properly, for example. Bespoke or MTM is definitely the way to go when talking shirts. You could also have discussed the different fabrics for various seasons and occasions, and some guide as to fit, e.g. being able to bend an elbow without pulling the shirt collar back from the wrist. There is so much to discuss when it comes to shirts!
Thank you Hugo for another informative and useful advice, although I am not an American, I think i might now why some people wear vest or t-shirt under their shirt, when I first started my sartorial journey, like most people, I went to the department store to buy my first grown-up attire, unfortunately, at least in Australia, the department stores were full of fused suits, glued shoes made of synthetic leather, and those polyester shirts which they claimed to be iron-free but in fact breath like wearing a plastic bag. the only way to make them sufferable is by having a vest under it. I developed a prejudice against the grown-up attire of shirt, suits and dress shoes, assuming they must be uncomfortable to wear. I am guessing America being the pioneer of mass marketing and using synthetic materials, they might find those polyester shirts insufferable as well. Thanks to websites like yours that teaches us how a shirt should be made, and how it should breath when wear it next to the skin. I can finally throw away my prejudice, and be comfortable while looking smart and elegant. So thanks again for the work you and your team are doing
Though my comment is quite late, I want to share from an American perspective. First, I completely agree with this comment. As young men, we Americans are not generally taught about materials, and we see white t-shirts as underwear in department stores. Without someone knowledgeable to teach us our errors, we grow up doing the same, while continuing to be uncomfortable in ill-fitting, stiff or scratchy material. I actually found this channel on a journey to make my own shirts. Even when I go to semi-nice stores, I feel that the shirts are not made for a forty-year-old who is fit. I may go bespoke, but I might just begin making my own.
I recently stopped wearing an undershirt. I think many of us here in the USA. Wear our shirts more casually (without a jacket, vest, or tie) and fear our naked torso showing through certain fabrics. Another reason is the thought of protecting our "nice" shirt from our sweat. However, I am now converted and building my collection. Merry Christmas, Sonya & Hugo!
Hugo, I'm glad you brought up the point about t-shirts. My reason for wearing them was to absorb sweat. Now I'm hating them more and more and it can be a chore trying to find an undershirt that's not easily discernible with some outfits. I'm considering these liners that you can buy for the armpit area. Thoughts anyone?
Well frankly, I sweat quite a lot but as I never wear a shirt two days in a row, then it's not a problem. But these pads may be a good solution indeed. I just doubt they are comfortable. Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic as always! Thank you for sharing. The shirt is the garment I have wasted so much money on over the years. I purchased your book Parisian Gentleman and it is beautiful!
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci; it's the name of the co-writer of one of my favourite books on transformation - The Count of Monte Cristo. Thank you again for providing such excellent content!
Dear mongsieur Hugo, I do wear undershirts especially during the colder months of the year as another layer to keep me warm. If the weather is very cold like now, I even wear long sleeve undershirts. It is pure for functional means. Of course when it is warmer I do not wear undershirts. I do agree with you that the shirt must not be seen. If you wear a v-neck jumper for example without a shirt, the undershirts must be v-neck too. And I live in Eurorpe The Netherlands as a matter of fact. Thank you once again for your teaching. Orvin Sillié.
Monsieur Jacomet, my husband will not wear a button collared shirt with a suit. A nice Italian or French silk necktie with a collared shirt including collar stays is his style. The button collared shirt with a nice suit appears mismatched. However, you are the expert and I would like to hear your opinion regarding this. This is the first video of your’s that I have watched. Very lovely. Merci beaucoup.
Hugo that’s was a great video as always. I just got 3 made to measure shirts from Emanuel Berg and they are amazing. A sales person (Alicia) from Poland came to Ecuador to take the measures and did a very profesional work. A company worth talking about.
Fantastic video, Hugo! I always thought that if you had to cheap out in any sartorial category, it would be shirts - until I recently had a warm and friendly chat with viennese bespoke shirtmaker Gino Venturini (such a charming man!). And gosh, now I know that at one point in time I will certainly upgrade the shirt section of my wardrobe, no doubt about it. Cheers!
Venturini is indeed a great shirtmaker (bespoke mainly) and yes it's a great decision to upgrade the shirt section of your wardrobe. Cheers my friend ! Hugo
I used to wear a undershirt with my button ups. The reason is because it was easy to laundry basics while the top shirt was still clean enough to wear a second time or third time. This was in my youth but I knew better than to advertise I had an undershirt. I would wear a deep neck or v-neck shirt. As an adult, I'm into finer things and I prefer the beautiful fabrics touching my skin directly so I don't wear an undershirt. I also don't wear a shirt more than once anymore before washing it.
Thank you Richard and I can relate to the fact that beautiful fabric touching the skin is a nice experience (hence my refusal of wearing anything under, no matter the season). Cheers, Hugo
Just catching up on some of your older videos that I haven't seen yet, Hugo! As a history enthusiast, I loved that story about how General de Gaulle saved Charvet! (P.S. I'm American, but I wear my shirts European style-no t-shirt/undershirt.)
I am surprised Italian shirt makers were not listed here. Barba, Finamore, Borrelli - all make wonderful shirts. Like typical Italian brands they make many different types of shirts of different quality and it's not easy to tell them apart unless you really know what you are doing, but even basic level Barba shirt (cheapest of the 3 I think) is of excellent quality. Finamore is my favorite.
Dear Mark, I know all these brands very well. Barba is good but overpriced in my opinion for an industrial make. Borrelli is no more THE Borelli we all used to love. And concerning Finamore, we know the family very well. It's a great brand indeed. Hugo
I also am a big fan of Finamore. Their slimmer fitting RTW models fit really well if one has a drop 7 or 8, to avoid a lot excess fabric bunching up around the waistline and ballooning - something I can't stand. I love the quality of Finamore, and my only complaint is I've experienced their buttons coming loose somewhat quickly. Odd for the traditional Crow's Foot attachment, and more quirky given the overall high level of fabrication. I've also become a huge fan of Cesare Attolini RTW shirts (also their tailoring of course). Attolini shirts have a splendid fit, great collars, excellent fabrics, and I don't think the quality of construction can be debated. Hugo, thank you for another great video. One aspect of shirts I would love to hear more about is collar height, as related to face shape/neck length, and moreover, how exposing more or less collar above one's jacket collar can affect an overall balance and appearance. Happy holidays to you and Sonya. All my best wishes. 🥂
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo, you are right as always. Barba is overpriced for the quality you get. I didn't realize Finamore is still family-owned - now, I like them even more.
@@acquasea Attolini - talk about expensive! I tried their shirts but they don't fit me well - way too much excess fabric, which is a bit strange because I own two suits and a SC by Attolini and they required only minor alterations.
I have my work shirts made bespoke for me I live in the Gambia and he makes them how I want them with the double pocket so that an A4 paper folded in two can exactly fit in there I love it and wouldn't want anything else I order them in sixes because you never know what might go wrong during the week
I have a few shirts made using Tessitura Monti cotton, made in Poland by a small outfitter. Love this cotton and how it feels and how it performs and looks. Portofino cuffs are my current got to cuff. Another great presentation! Sitting on the sofa with a large cup of tea on a Sunday afternoon, perfection! Cheers!
I find myself in something of a predicament with regards to shirts that fit, since, due to congenital disorders, my arms are of different lengths and my spine has a strong curvature. Therefore, going mtm is my only alternative. As you say yourself, the fit is everything. I was optimistic about the explosion of online mtm shirt sites, but unfortunately I've found that many of them do not accommodate for arm lengths that do not match. I'm of the strong opinion that anybody can make an effort to truly look their best, and perhaps this is even more important for us who have been gifted with bodies that do not adhere very well to the norms of society. Many will not take you seriously, as a man, as an employee, as a fellow human being. When you dress up just a little bit and show some pride together with a friendly demeanor, your clothes have the power to transform these meetings and allow you to meet others as equals. And finally, thank you for your many interesting discussions on this channel.
Dear Mattias, thank you for your invaluable contribution to this debate and for sharing your thoughts and feelings. I agree with you when you explain that dressing up (even just a bit) can really change your life for the better. As regard to your arm length problem, I'm sure some custom makers can provide this for you. Where do you live ? Drop me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr and I'll do my best to help you. Hugo,
SARTORIAL TALKS - putting the shoe on a wood after wearing them - do the shoe trees have to be wooden? Or can they be plastic as well? What I mean is, is there an added benefit of them being made out of wood? or is it the shape of the shoe tree that we are benefiting from?
Hi Alexander, They can be made of plastic or wood---the idea is to protect the shape of the shoe and to, let your shoes dry out. Some say woods are nicer because they absorb sweat. Cheers, ~Sonya & Hugo
I can’t explain the t-shirt undershirt. I live in America but I am Cuban, and we wear the tank top style undershirts. The explanation is very simple, Cuba is hot, and humid, and the undershirt keeps you cooler, and also keeps your linen shirt from becoming soaked in sweat. I reside in Miami, where the same applies. I ope this sheds some light.
It does my friend. But the "sweat" problem also comes from the fact that in the USA the "iron-less" shirts are favoured and most of the time they are made of bad cotton which does not breathe enough... Best! Hugo
Well I do like wearing a vest without a jacket when I work at my desk for example and Sonya is the queen of vests, but I would never walk in the street without a jacket above my vest. I think it's a good and stylish option when you are inside. Hugo
What a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I truly enjoyed that last bit about under shirts. I found it humorous. As a Texan I know we wear under shirt’s as a barrier to protect our shirt from sweat. But that’s just my experience. I plan to visit Europe, I’ll be sure to wear an under shirt 😁
As an American, I can tell you the one and only reason I wear an undershirt, and it really doesn’t have to do with my location it has to do with my pocketbook. All the shirts I purchase are so cheap the material is thin and my skin shows through the white shirt. I am TRYING to up my game though!!
Bonjour Hugo, I would love to see more videos on shirts. I am hunting for the perfect shirt and would love to hear more about your opinion of the subject. Cheers. Joey
Nice video. I would appreciate seeing some detailed pictures ( such as the different between double and single stitching) so a person will know what to look for in a good shirt. Also, some information about good construction of cuffs.
A little bit more expensive than Charles Tyrwhitt there is a brand - whit store at Jermyn that belongs to LVMH group - that made shirts that catchs my eye and that I'll be glad to know your thoughts on it. I 'm talking about Thomas Pink. À bientôt, P.S. And I remember have bought some shirts at their store at François 1er in París
32:28 hugo, it's not just americans who wear undershirts inside their dress shirts. i'm from europe, and i always make sure to wear an undershirt first. it helps with sweat stain prevention, and i personally find it more hygienic than with no shirt.
Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are very decent quality for the price, much higher than comparable High St offerings. But the best thing about CT is the sheer range of options and sizes. They now have four fits and almost any combination of collar and sleeve length. That’s what I loved when I first encountered CT; I could find an amazing range of affordable shirts despite my slightly unusual measurements (15 1/2 inch collar and 36 inch sleeve length). I graduated to Harvie & Hudson which are the best OTR shirts I have owned. The quality is excellent and they are very comfortable to wear. Not bad value either(3 shirts for £180 and they usually have shirts on sale for £50 each).
Thank you so much for making this amazing educational content! I, for one, supremely agree with your assessment of the American way of wearing tees under the shirts. But, more importantly, since I have to dress formally for work every day, I am just very very grateful to you for giving us these tools to begin to understand real quality and differentiate between the authentic product and overpriced imitation. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I wish you and Sonia lots of fortune and success (so, hopefully, you can continue to share your amazing wealth of knowledge with the rest of us).
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Hugo sir, this is so uncanny . In the last few weeks I've discovered a whole new world of shirts . I've gotten some two fold cotton at 170 threads plus by Hilditch Key and Thomas Pink ...I even slept in one of them - literally the most comfortable things I've ever worn ....never going back - scary.
Hahaha I understand. You should try the 200/2 or even the 240/2 by Marol (the Zenith collection). It's a fantastic experience on the skin. Cheers my friend, Hugo
We wear vests under our shirts because: 1 it's cold and we were too cheap to buy a 3 piece suit for the winter. 2 Get another day's wear out of the shirt 3 Cheap sacrificial garment for perspiration stains. Unfortunately unless one finds a a vest close to one's skin tone it's visible, more so with sleeveless.
I have to laugh a little while watching this, seeing as I am wearing a deep v neck undershirt (totally invisible!) Under my shirt, and yes I'm American. I really only do it in the colder months for a little bit of extra warmth. As long as it's not visible, I don't worry.
Hope you both have a relaxing and enjoyable Christmas, looking forward to lots more great content in 2020. Maybe you could do a 'Roaring 20s' style feature with a modern twist :-)
Great informative sartorial video Hugo. I love how your waistcoat (vest) really fits you so immaculate well and the style,but you didn't mention your shirt brand which looks beautiful.
The North American winters are bitterly cold and the summers are humid. That may be reason for the vest or T shirt under the shirt: warmth in the winters and to prevent perspiration getting on the shirt in the summers.
Hugo, I am learning a lot from your videos as I make a serious start to my sartorial journey. This video about "what to look for in a Good Shirt" is energising! Would you please tell me if it is necessary to wear a vest or a T-shirt inside a shirt? I am against it. But, my wife insists that I must wear a vest or a T-shirt inside a shirt. What is your advice or position? (14 May 2023).
Great insight into shirtmaking. Merci bien. I asked your book, the Italian gentleman, for christmas. Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and have a great 2020
Under shirt / vest is used in tropical climate. If not, the shirt will absorb the sweat. European climate doesn't have that heat. So I think it did not become a part of men's wardrobe. Cotton is most used, now model material is available which is light weight and you won't feel you are wearing one. It also adds extra warmth to the body during cold climate. When shirt alone is used, the shirt's life decreases, but with vest the life extends at-least double fold. Thank you, Raj.
I think two white shirts and a light blue shirt properly fit will suffice, but I've bought a few more from Tailorstore. By the second order they had my size just right, but I wish I had only ordered one shirt the first time, before I confirmed the exact fit. Excellent tutorial about shirts, Hugo!
Can I ask, are all bespoke shirts using French seams rather than flat felled seams? I've gotten into the hobby of tailoring my own clothes and have done half a dozen shirts but always used flat felled seams. Very interesting about French seams being called English seams in France, these little details are gems.
Dear Steve, most bespoke makers will use single needle French seams (that are called English seams in France, which is very strange indeed). I personally love this little pleat created by the single needle technique. But it's very subjective of course. All my best, Hugo
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This channel is like diamond in a mine of coal.
Indeed it is & great full that it’s here 😊👌🏻 .
Thank you so much my friends for your kindness and support. Hugo & Sonya
Agreed.
Absolutely Hugo & Sonya Are a Wealth of Knowledge 😎😊
True that
I had the pleasure of meeting Hugo here in NYC at a private home party. When he walked in the room, it was as if no one else was dressed. He carried elegance, style and warmth like nothing I’ve seen before. Hugo embodies what he speaks.
Oh thank you for your kind words my friend. Best, Hugo
Words to live by... "You buy a shirt at the shirtmaker, you buy your shoes at the shoemaker, & you buy your suit at the suitmaker". I've lost count of the number of people I've said this to. Well said, sir!
Thank you Ian, that's a principle for me in order to acquire the best products from the real specialists. Hugo
Exactly. You don't buy your beef from your fishmonger. 🤣
Timestamps for the brands mentioned:
19:57 TM Lewin, Charles thyrwitt
21:52 Spier & Mackay
23:00 Brook's Brothers
23:54 Howard's Paris
25:23 Turnbull & Asser
28:10 Marol
also Charvet
Thanks, mate!
19:57 a navy suit for war is all you need.
Thank you because i couldn't find the names he pronounces
Thanks for the list. How do you spell "sharve" though? he kept saying that.
"Today I'm wearing a vest because we're going to talk about...the shirt."
- Hugo Jacomet, 2019
Hopefully you didn't expect a gentleman like Hugo to wear just a shirt ;) For a classic gentleman shirt is like underwear :)
@@liptak15 Yeah, definitely wear a shirt and vest... If you want to look like a children's magician.
This was meant to be well-meaning joke. Didn't expect people to take it seriously, and didn't expect to actually dislike waistcoats lol.
I love the way a good cotton dress shirt, freshly laundered and pressed, luxuriously envelopes the body. I used to believe that dress shirts had to be uncomfortable due to having mostly polyester shirts, but once I invested in some good cotton shirts my opinion changed completely.
After an extraordinarily trying week, this video brought me happiness as they always do. Thank you Hugo for everything.
My pleasure Peter and I hope next week will be more serene for you ! Cheers, Hugo
Sartorial Talks are a Godsend to me! I teach business English in Moscow to top-managers. The Russian people I deal with are very cultured, highly educated, classy, and kind. So, I am very grateful for your advice, and that of your wonderful wife. Without your help, this Canadian, born of English parents, would have a harder go at my amazing job. Большое спасибо сэр! (Thank you very much sir)
You are very welcome Irving. We are so glad to read we've been helpful to you ! Hugo & Sonya
"classy" huh?
I could listen to Hugo and his lovely wife for days and weeks. So inspirational, as always.
Thank you Marc for your words of encouragement and happy holiday season! Hugo & Sonya
I feel very blessed to have found your channel. As a reseller on eBay and Amazon, I am always on the hunt for high end clothing for my store. The education you provide opens my eyes to new brands, styles, and how to identify better quality. I stick to shoes and shirts. I believe suits should only be purchased through a shop that can tailor and adjust to fit. Buying suits online is like ordering a wife. They rarely work out. We have, as a culture, lost the art of looking good and taking pride in our appearance. Through channels like yours the younger generations have a chance to learn and grow and teach the next. Thank you for all you do.
Thank you Corky for your thoughtful contribution to the debate here. Happy new year ! Hugo
Hugo, have you considered making a video about watches and how they can elevate or ruin your look.
Dear Juan, I'm really not an expert in that field. Best, Hugo
Underrated comment ! Brilliant idea !
@@SARTORIALTALKS Perhaps a collaboration? Could be beneficial to all to invite someone to talk about it on your channel.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for your quick response Hugo, I agree with with Atlantic Picture maybe a collaboration or an interview with a watch expert would be attractive. As always your content is great, regards.
@@AtlanticPicture with archie luxury, of course! A man with great shirts.
Wonderful Mr Hugo !! You are a indeed a asset to our industry who guides us to actually understand what is dressing all about. Indeed pleasure learning from your experiences. Thanks for giving back with all warmth and love. Looking forward to hear more from you.
I do appreciate this great content .... general De Gaulle was a great french statesman... I know this because my Grand father was decorated by him post liberating France...the General refused to strip my Grand Father from his medals and military honors once he was discovered that he flipped side and joined the National Syrian Resistence ....the General refused to dishonor my Grandfather ...some one in the war ministry told my father that is the same reason he was granted a state sponsor scholarship to continue his studies for his master and double major PHD from Leon university ....
The General didnot forget that my grand father fought for him against Vichy's government during times of hardship and inflected some heavy damage against the Vichies .... he respected the national asperation of the Syrians to become an independent state ...he respected that .... for this ...The general despite some harsh critizim agaisnt him from historians will remain one of the great leaders of our time.
Thank you Mr. Jacomet.
PS: wearing some underwear shirt under your formal shirt is essential if you sweat a lot.
My dream one day is that people be back to dressing well and consciously like the old times and Hugo is one of the pillar of this dream and hope to become a reality. Great work Hugo! I look up onto you! Love from Philippines 🇵🇭
I wear my shirts on my skin most of the time. I add an undershirt only in two cases: extreme cold, where the extra layer just makes me a little warmer, and high heat, where I'm worried about sweating all over a nice shirt. In farsi, we call an undershirt an "aragh geer" -- aragh meaning sweat, and geer meaning stuck.
To me an undershirt gives benefits that I cannot let go of: reducing sweat stains (and sweating in general), increasing the longevity of shirts. I've always been prone to getting sweaty, armpits and when I didn't wear undershirts my shirts would last maybe a year or two until the armpits had stains that wouldn't wash away. For me the material has to be very thin, tan or grey in color and always a V-neck to not show through the shirt. Undershirt is very necessary for me and it doesn't make wearing a shirt any less comfortable or elegant. I'm European (not French though).
Thank you sir for sharing your experience. I will never be able to wear an undershirt but I understand your point. Merry Christmas ! Hugo
I would agree
loyly surely you will sweat more with an undershirt?
shaunacole1 not true. An undershirt has an utterly minimal impact on causing someone to sweat more than they already would. For someone who sweats a lot, the benefits of the extra layer of an undershirt far outweigh any minuscule affect an undershirt would have on actually making someone sweat more.
@@DobsJasJadPing that's precisely what I'm using
Thank you for including some indications as to how to get started on a budget. This is so important for young folk or for older people such as myself who do not have the means to buy expensive garments yet have the desire to look and dress better
Frenchman speaking excellent English layered with an elegant french touch👍👍
And a strong accent haha. Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS Any we wouldn’t want it any other way!
I'm in the small percentage of viewers who watch both the English and French language channels. Because.. why not?
Haha, thank you my friend. Hugo
I do that too, I can understand French very very well, sometimes more than English, this is not the case because Hugo talks with abgreat english
As am I
We have here in Mexico a word for this kind of comments: mamador.
Thanks Hugo! Great lessons as usual.
I am so glad to have found this channel !!! Much love from America saw this on Teddy Baldassary channel m. Have been watching non stop
Many thanks CJ! Very encouraging. Hugo
Your son sure has an amazing sartorial heritage he can enjoy!
It’s one reason I’m willing to invest in quality garments and shoes myself hoping to one day be able to pass them on to my son with pride!
Yes it's a nice thought and a noble way to build your wardrobe I think. Cheers! Hugo
Mr. Jocomet thank you so much for the Sartorial passion that you share with us. Now we know you have huge shirt collection and is not so easy to share all of them. But we were so happy to see some of your favorites. Greetings from Turkey/Kayseri
Hugo and Sonya, thanks for everything you do.
You mentioned the possibility of doing a video about the types of cotton for shirts and their qualities. I'd be very interested in that and I believe your other fans would too.
This channel is low on quantity on subscriber numbers but this definitely has the best quality content.
Dear Sir, we have 80K subscribers on the English speaking channel (in only 52 videos) but also 35K subscribers on the French speaking channel. That makes 115K loyal and super active subscribers. A real community we are proud of. Thank you for your encouragement ! Hugo
Feels good to know that you Mr. Jacomet started your journey with Brooks Brothers, T.M Lewin and Charles Tyrwhitt, because that's where I started, and now inspired by you I'm transitioning to MTM high quality shirts. Great episode!
I’m so impressed......that’ s history , culture , art and many more .
I just regret that I didn’t visit Charvet on my last trip to Paris .
Thanks.
It’s amazing what five years did to some of the pricing. Tyrwitt is something like $65 a shirt on the specials. Turnbull and Asser, on the other hand was slightly under $600 for their cheapest shirts vs $225-250 when the video was made five years ago.
I had a very rough week, having to redo a video 3 times because of audio issues (I'm sure you can understand my pain, Hugo, being a director yourself) and when all was said and done, this came up, and I couldn't have chosen something better to brighten up the night. Thank you as always, and God bless you, Hugo!
God bless you too brother and yes I understand your pain with the sound... Hugo
I have recently found this channel. Talk about having that gentleman's elegance! I live in Texas and I have to wear an undershirt, the sweating one can do in the Texas heat is immense. June, July, August, and September all average around 90-F and higher. April - May it's 70-F or more at times, and October - November it's the same. I am learning so much from watching these talks. Thank you.
Hugo, you make everything so interesting, you're such an expert, thank you for your videos
Thank you my friend, and Happy Holidays! Hugo
I live in Sydney Australia however my children both have French partners. Consequently, I visit Paris once ever one or two years. After watching this video I could not resist visiting Charvet. After explaining that I would love to own one of their shirts but it was out of my price range they very kindly gave me a personal tour of each level of their shop including the floor with all the bolts of cloth you mentioned. It was a fabulous experience.
Please forgive me if this has been said here before, the undershirt is worm to one save the shirt itself, ie. from accumulating sweat and oils from the skin of the wearer. Secondly it can provide a compliment to the shirt. For example I have pale skin so white is no problem for me but if you have dark skin it can make a white shirt look off. For me dark shirts like black look off so I wear a black undershirt and get that oil slick black look, that depth of color. I hope my long winded explanation helps a bit.
GB
This is quickly becoming my primary information source on sartorial topics. I may have discovered my new favorite shirt maker in Turnbull & Asser through viewing this video.
Thank you David, and yes T&A is a great choice for sure! Hugo
Hello Sir, I truly feel privileged to get this valuable knowledge from You. Last week I started a search on how & why Men’s shirts are as you describe them, as of now. The search is now over, since you have given me, more than I could ever ask for.
Thank You so Very much, I hardly can wait for the next episode to launch - there’s so much valuable knowledge here that it’s hard to get my hands down. Thank you 🙏🏻 so much 👌🏻 Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰
Thank you so much for your enthusiasm and your words of encouragement Renaud. Very much appreciated. Cheers! Hugo & Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS Thanks again for taking me on this never ending journey 🙏🏻 👌🏻
Dear Sir, your knowledge and good taste is apparent and down to earth. Thank you for your valuable advice.
Thank you for your encouraging message. Hugo
You really need to give us a video about how you get such an amazing shimmer on your silver hair :) it looks fantastic. Sets off your suits beautifully. Thank you for the excellent content of your videos. You both do a great job.
Thank you Di. Well, to be honest I don't do anything particular. I just wash my hair every day (or every other day when possible) and I NEVER use a blow dryer. I just let it dry by itself. Best regards, Hugo
my non expensive dress shirt collection is filled almost exclusively with charles tyrwhitt. its not as inexpensive as he says, but it is definitely the best quality shirt in this price range
You're right that fit is crucial but it is tricky to find shirts which fit because they have to follow the body's form quite closely. i couldn't find a single shirt in Jermyn street which fit me properly, for example. Bespoke or MTM is definitely the way to go when talking shirts.
You could also have discussed the different fabrics for various seasons and occasions, and some guide as to fit, e.g. being able to bend an elbow without pulling the shirt collar back from the wrist. There is so much to discuss when it comes to shirts!
I agree, and we'll produce more episodes on this of course. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you Hugo for another informative and useful advice, although I am not an American, I think i might now why some people wear vest or t-shirt under their shirt, when I first started my sartorial journey, like most people, I went to the department store to buy my first grown-up attire, unfortunately, at least in Australia, the department stores were full of fused suits, glued shoes made of synthetic leather, and those polyester shirts which they claimed to be iron-free but in fact breath like wearing a plastic bag. the only way to make them sufferable is by having a vest under it. I developed a prejudice against the grown-up attire of shirt, suits and dress shoes, assuming they must be uncomfortable to wear. I am guessing America being the pioneer of mass marketing and using synthetic materials, they might find those polyester shirts insufferable as well. Thanks to websites like yours that teaches us how a shirt should be made, and how it should breath when wear it next to the skin. I can finally throw away my prejudice, and be comfortable while looking smart and elegant. So thanks again for the work you and your team are doing
Wow, what a wonderful and thoughtful contribution to the debate my friend. Thank you so much Yuri. Hugo
Though my comment is quite late, I want to share from an American perspective. First, I completely agree with this comment. As young men, we Americans are not generally taught about materials, and we see white t-shirts as underwear in department stores. Without someone knowledgeable to teach us our errors, we grow up doing the same, while continuing to be uncomfortable in ill-fitting, stiff or scratchy material.
I actually found this channel on a journey to make my own shirts. Even when I go to semi-nice stores, I feel that the shirts are not made for a forty-year-old who is fit. I may go bespoke, but I might just begin making my own.
for me watching your videos is like going to a Garden or Museum, and like listening to live music and reading great literature. Thank you
You are so kind my friend. Thank you for your appreciation and your uplifting encouragements. Hugo & Sonya
Very useful, Iove it, maintenance is key for the wardrobe. Request you to have a session on suit fabrics selection.
Once you order your first made to order shirt, you understand what a shirt is. Hugo, superb video!
Merci David ! Hugo
I love watching every single episode of your channel! Amazing!
I recently stopped wearing an undershirt. I think many of us here in the USA. Wear our shirts more casually (without a jacket, vest, or tie) and fear our naked torso showing through certain fabrics. Another reason is the thought of protecting our "nice" shirt from our sweat. However, I am now converted and building my collection.
Merry Christmas, Sonya & Hugo!
Thank you Andy for your contribution and Merry Christmas to you as well ! Hugo & Sonya
Hugo, I'm glad you brought up the point about t-shirts. My reason for wearing them was to absorb sweat. Now I'm hating them more and more and it can be a chore trying to find an undershirt that's not easily discernible with some outfits. I'm considering these liners that you can buy for the armpit area. Thoughts anyone?
Well frankly, I sweat quite a lot but as I never wear a shirt two days in a row, then it's not a problem. But these pads may be a good solution indeed. I just doubt they are comfortable. Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic as always! Thank you for sharing. The shirt is the garment I have wasted so much money on over the years. I purchased your book Parisian Gentleman and it is beautiful!
Thank you Auguste ! (that's a nice French name).
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci; it's the name of the co-writer of one of my favourite books on transformation - The Count of Monte Cristo. Thank you again for providing such excellent content!
Hugo's videos will always be the best educational videos on menswear
very high quality and full of details
Thank you Samy, that's encouraging. Hugo
Looking quite phenomenal with the color combinations Hugo 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Ha thank you my friend. Merry Christmas ! Hugo
Amazing videos! Thank you for all of your help! American who converted to no undershirt and will never go back! Be safe and healthy. Scott
9:50 same thoughts, great point
Dear mongsieur Hugo, I do wear undershirts especially during the colder months of the year as another layer to keep me warm. If the weather is very cold like now, I even wear long sleeve undershirts. It is pure for functional means. Of course when it is warmer I do not wear undershirts. I do agree with you that the shirt must not be seen. If you wear a v-neck jumper for example without a shirt, the undershirts must be v-neck too. And I live in Eurorpe The Netherlands as a matter of fact. Thank you once again for your teaching. Orvin Sillié.
Monsieur Jacomet, my husband will not wear a button collared shirt with a suit. A nice Italian or French silk necktie with a collared shirt including collar stays is his style. The button collared shirt with a nice suit appears mismatched. However, you are the expert and I would like to hear your opinion regarding this. This is the first video of your’s that I have watched. Very lovely. Merci beaucoup.
Yes please do videos on fabrics. From the quality of cotton, linen, and wool, to the textures of the fabric and what and when it is best to wear them.
We have a couple of episodes in the make on the subject. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo that’s was a great video as always. I just got 3 made to measure shirts from Emanuel Berg and they are amazing. A sales person (Alicia) from Poland came to Ecuador to take the measures and did a very profesional work. A company worth talking about.
Fascinating the storys about Charvet
Mesmerising house indeed. Hugo
Fantastic video, Hugo! I always thought that if you had to cheap out in any sartorial category, it would be shirts - until I recently had a warm and friendly chat with viennese bespoke shirtmaker Gino Venturini (such a charming man!). And gosh, now I know that at one point in time I will certainly upgrade the shirt section of my wardrobe, no doubt about it. Cheers!
Venturini is indeed a great shirtmaker (bespoke mainly) and yes it's a great decision to upgrade the shirt section of your wardrobe. Cheers my friend ! Hugo
Hugo, another great sartorial talk. In the future could you possibly cover dress belts? Regards, Brendan
Many thanks Brendan ! I'm not a big fan of belts actually, I prefer side adjusters on my trousers or suspenders. Cheers, Hugo
I used to wear a undershirt with my button ups. The reason is because it was easy to laundry basics while the top shirt was still clean enough to wear a second time or third time. This was in my youth but I knew better than to advertise I had an undershirt. I would wear a deep neck or v-neck shirt. As an adult, I'm into finer things and I prefer the beautiful fabrics touching my skin directly so I don't wear an undershirt. I also don't wear a shirt more than once anymore before washing it.
Thank you Richard and I can relate to the fact that beautiful fabric touching the skin is a nice experience (hence my refusal of wearing anything under, no matter the season). Cheers, Hugo
Just catching up on some of your older videos that I haven't seen yet, Hugo! As a history enthusiast, I loved that story about how General de Gaulle saved Charvet!
(P.S. I'm American, but I wear my shirts European style-no t-shirt/undershirt.)
I am surprised Italian shirt makers were not listed here. Barba, Finamore, Borrelli - all make wonderful shirts. Like typical Italian brands they make many different types of shirts of different quality and it's not easy to tell them apart unless you really know what you are doing, but even basic level Barba shirt (cheapest of the 3 I think) is of excellent quality. Finamore is my favorite.
Dear Mark, I know all these brands very well. Barba is good but overpriced in my opinion for an industrial make. Borrelli is no more THE Borelli we all used to love. And concerning Finamore, we know the family very well. It's a great brand indeed. Hugo
I also am a big fan of Finamore. Their slimmer fitting RTW models fit really well if one has a drop 7 or 8, to avoid a lot excess fabric bunching up around the waistline and ballooning - something I can't stand. I love the quality of Finamore, and my only complaint is I've experienced their buttons coming loose somewhat quickly. Odd for the traditional Crow's Foot attachment, and more quirky given the overall high level of fabrication. I've also become a huge fan of Cesare Attolini RTW shirts (also their tailoring of course). Attolini shirts have a splendid fit, great collars, excellent fabrics, and I don't think the quality of construction can be debated. Hugo, thank you for another great video. One aspect of shirts I would love to hear more about is collar height, as related to face shape/neck length, and moreover, how exposing more or less collar above one's jacket collar can affect an overall balance and appearance. Happy holidays to you and Sonya. All my best wishes. 🥂
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo, you are right as always. Barba is overpriced for the quality you get. I didn't realize Finamore is still family-owned - now, I like them even more.
@@acquasea Attolini - talk about expensive! I tried their shirts but they don't fit me well - way too much excess fabric, which is a bit strange because I own two suits and a SC by Attolini and they required only minor alterations.
@@mrvk39 I do know that Attolini makes different stock fits with their shirts.
I have my work shirts made bespoke for me I live in the Gambia and he makes them how I want them with the double pocket so that an A4 paper folded in two can exactly fit in there I love it and wouldn't want anything else I order them in sixes because you never know what might go wrong during the week
I have a few shirts made using Tessitura Monti cotton, made in Poland by a small outfitter. Love this cotton and how it feels and how it performs and looks. Portofino cuffs are my current got to cuff. Another great presentation! Sitting on the sofa with a large cup of tea on a Sunday afternoon, perfection! Cheers!
I bow down to you sir.
Such an amazing wealth of knowledge!!
Stand up my friend. Cheers, Hugo
I find myself in something of a predicament with regards to shirts that fit, since, due to congenital disorders, my arms are of different lengths and my spine has a strong curvature. Therefore, going mtm is my only alternative. As you say yourself, the fit is everything. I was optimistic about the explosion of online mtm shirt sites, but unfortunately I've found that many of them do not accommodate for arm lengths that do not match.
I'm of the strong opinion that anybody can make an effort to truly look their best, and perhaps this is even more important for us who have been gifted with bodies that do not adhere very well to the norms of society. Many will not take you seriously, as a man, as an employee, as a fellow human being. When you dress up just a little bit and show some pride together with a friendly demeanor, your clothes have the power to transform these meetings and allow you to meet others as equals. And finally, thank you for your many interesting discussions on this channel.
Dear Mattias, thank you for your invaluable contribution to this debate and for sharing your thoughts and feelings. I agree with you when you explain that dressing up (even just a bit) can really change your life for the better. As regard to your arm length problem, I'm sure some custom makers can provide this for you. Where do you live ? Drop me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr and I'll do my best to help you. Hugo,
SARTORIAL TALKS - putting the shoe on a wood after wearing them - do the shoe trees have to be wooden? Or can they be plastic as well? What I mean is, is there an added benefit of them being made out of wood? or is it the shape of the shoe tree that we are benefiting from?
Hi Alexander, They can be made of plastic or wood---the idea is to protect the shape of the shoe and to, let your shoes dry out. Some say woods are nicer because they absorb sweat. Cheers, ~Sonya & Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you! Wooden ones are heavy too when you travel. I have both. I was just curious but you answered my question. Take care!
I can’t explain the t-shirt undershirt. I live in America but I am Cuban, and we wear the tank top style undershirts. The explanation is very simple, Cuba is hot, and humid, and the undershirt keeps you cooler, and also keeps your linen shirt from becoming soaked in sweat. I reside in Miami, where the same applies. I ope this sheds some light.
It does my friend. But the "sweat" problem also comes from the fact that in the USA the "iron-less" shirts are favoured and most of the time they are made of bad cotton which does not breathe enough... Best! Hugo
for dress shirts. charvet, kiton or brooks brothers golden fleece
And Fray, and Attolini, and Turnbull & Asser and so many others... Cheers, Hugo
At first I didn’t like the intro music. Due to classic conditioning, I now get excited every time it comes on 😂 love the channel!
This is good news my friend, thanks ! Hugo
I love vest Hugo. Do you think wearing a fine vest without a jacket can be a great look for a modern gentleman?
Well I do like wearing a vest without a jacket when I work at my desk for example and Sonya is the queen of vests, but I would never walk in the street without a jacket above my vest. I think it's a good and stylish option when you are inside. Hugo
What a wealth of knowledge. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I truly enjoyed that last bit about under shirts. I found it humorous.
As a Texan I know we wear under shirt’s as a barrier to protect our shirt from sweat. But that’s just my experience. I plan to visit Europe, I’ll be sure to wear an under shirt 😁
You're welcome and looking for some nice discreet undershirt possibilities. Hugo
As an American, I can tell you the one and only reason I wear an undershirt, and it really doesn’t have to do with my location it has to do with my pocketbook. All the shirts I purchase are so cheap the material is thin and my skin shows through the white shirt. I am TRYING to up my game though!!
Bonjour Hugo, I would love to see more videos on shirts. I am hunting for the perfect shirt and would love to hear more about your opinion of the subject. Cheers. Joey
Someday I hope to have the ability to have a couple Turnbull and Asser shirts. Great video, Hugo, I loved the history lesson!
watching these videos is a meditative experience for me. So informative while pleasant and relaxing.
That's a great compliment. Many thanks my friend, Hugo & Sonya
Nice video. I would appreciate seeing some detailed pictures ( such as the different between double and single stitching) so a person will know what to look for in a good shirt. Also, some information about good construction of cuffs.
Yes you're right, we'll prepare a more technical episode on shirts next time. cheers, Hugo
A little bit more expensive than Charles Tyrwhitt there is a brand - whit store at Jermyn that belongs to LVMH group - that made shirts that catchs my eye and that I'll be glad to know your thoughts on it. I 'm talking about Thomas Pink.
À bientôt,
P.S. And I remember have bought some shirts at their store at François 1er in París
Pink is a good brand although I've alway find their cut quite large. Cheers, Hugo
32:28 hugo, it's not just americans who wear undershirts inside their dress shirts. i'm from europe, and i always make sure to wear an undershirt first. it helps with sweat stain prevention, and i personally find it more hygienic than with no shirt.
Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are very decent quality for the price, much higher than comparable High St offerings. But the best thing about CT is the sheer range of options and sizes. They now have four fits and almost any combination of collar and sleeve length. That’s what I loved when I first encountered CT; I could find an amazing range of affordable shirts despite my slightly unusual measurements (15 1/2 inch collar and 36 inch sleeve length).
I graduated to Harvie & Hudson which are the best OTR shirts I have owned. The quality is excellent and they are very comfortable to wear. Not bad value either(3 shirts for £180 and they usually have shirts on sale for £50 each).
Thank you so much for making this amazing educational content! I, for one, supremely agree with your assessment of the American way of wearing tees under the shirts. But, more importantly, since I have to dress formally for work every day, I am just very very grateful to you for giving us these tools to begin to understand real quality and differentiate between the authentic product and overpriced imitation. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I wish you and Sonia lots of fortune and success (so, hopefully, you can continue to share your amazing wealth of knowledge with the rest of us).
Thank you, thank you, thank you Vlad ! And Merry Christmas ! Hugo
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Merry Christmas!! On your recommendations, I’ve begun to acquire some excellent shoes. Presently, waiting for the shipments of two of my first pairs (black calf cap toes from Herring and Wholecut shoes from Meermin). It occurs to me that it is quite a remote place sartorially - Los Angeles. Perhaps, I can share the knowledge I gain from you with some people here, and bring better conditions about to those who desire them. I am particularly inspired by your reflections on excellent shoes essentially being a “foundation” (and I’m paraphrasing, of course) to a better life. Thanks again!
Another great episode! Thank you for the detail and very happy to hear your take on undershirts. I hate waring anything under my dress shirts.
Me too Randall, but I can understand some people like it. I think it's also a cultural thing in the USA. Hugo
Thank you for this amazing lesson on Shirts.
My pleasure my friend. Hugo
Paul fredrick, and round tree York are shirts I wear.
I have others as well. But for my white shirts, double cuff , this is what I wear.
Yay! I've been wanting a video on shirts! Thank you!
You are very welcome Lee! Hugo
Hugo sir, this is so uncanny . In the last few weeks I've discovered a whole new world of shirts . I've gotten some two fold cotton at 170 threads plus by Hilditch Key and Thomas Pink ...I even slept in one of them - literally the most comfortable things I've ever worn ....never going back - scary.
Hahaha I understand. You should try the 200/2 or even the 240/2 by Marol (the Zenith collection). It's a fantastic experience on the skin. Cheers my friend, Hugo
We wear vests under our shirts because:
1 it's cold and we were too cheap to buy a 3 piece suit for the winter.
2 Get another day's wear out of the shirt
3 Cheap sacrificial garment for perspiration stains.
Unfortunately unless one finds a a vest close to one's skin tone it's visible, more so with sleeveless.
I have to laugh a little while watching this, seeing as I am wearing a deep v neck undershirt (totally invisible!) Under my shirt, and yes I'm American. I really only do it in the colder months for a little bit of extra warmth. As long as it's not visible, I don't worry.
lol there's always one lol he forgives you though lol
Would you consider doing an episodes on shirt brands “best steal quality shirts” thanks!
Hope you both have a relaxing and enjoyable Christmas, looking forward to lots more great content in 2020. Maybe you could do a 'Roaring 20s' style feature with a modern twist :-)
That's not a bad idea! Merry Christmas my friend, Hugo & Sonya
Best content out there. Hugo should have at least 1M followers
Very kind once again thank you Gennaro! Hugo
Great informative sartorial video Hugo. I love how your waistcoat (vest) really fits you so immaculate well and the style,but you didn't mention your shirt brand which looks beautiful.
I had saved this video to watch it later and “later” was today. It was well worth the wait and I watched it on my TV. Thank you, Hugo.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, Hugo and Sonya! Best wishes to you and the team!
Thank you Mike. Happy Holidays to you too! Hugo & Sonya
The North American winters are bitterly cold and the summers are humid. That may be reason for the vest or T shirt under the shirt: warmth in the winters and to prevent perspiration getting on the shirt in the summers.
Hugo, I am learning a lot from your videos as I make a serious start to my sartorial journey. This video about "what to look for in a Good Shirt" is energising! Would you please tell me if it is necessary to wear a vest or a T-shirt inside a shirt? I am against it. But, my wife insists that I must wear a vest or a T-shirt inside a shirt. What is your advice or position? (14 May 2023).
Great insight into shirtmaking. Merci bien.
I asked your book, the Italian gentleman, for christmas.
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and have a great 2020
Merci mon ami. I hope you'll enjoy the book. Cheers, Hugo
Under shirt / vest is used in tropical climate. If not, the shirt will absorb the sweat. European climate doesn't have that heat. So I think it did not become a part of men's wardrobe. Cotton is most used, now model material is available which is light weight and you won't feel you are wearing one. It also adds extra warmth to the body during cold climate. When shirt alone is used, the shirt's life decreases, but with vest the life extends at-least double fold.
Thank you, Raj.
I think two white shirts and a light blue shirt properly fit will suffice, but I've bought a few more from Tailorstore. By the second order they had my size just right, but I wish I had only ordered one shirt the first time, before I confirmed the exact fit. Excellent tutorial about shirts, Hugo!
My ermenegildo zegna is lasting me long time and every time you wear it it's a pleasure to the skin
I can relate to that David ! Hugo
Can I ask, are all bespoke shirts using French seams rather than flat felled seams? I've gotten into the hobby of tailoring my own clothes and have done half a dozen shirts but always used flat felled seams. Very interesting about French seams being called English seams in France, these little details are gems.
Dear Steve, most bespoke makers will use single needle French seams (that are called English seams in France, which is very strange indeed). I personally love this little pleat created by the single needle technique. But it's very subjective of course. All my best, Hugo