my DCE100B started out at 2 mins now lasts about 15 seconds and drops to 3 seconds each depression of the switch after 3 months. various batt backs all the same. was going to chuck it but will make this repair to see if it works. I use it on high most of the time anyways to clean my wood shop and mech shop. thank you. UPDATE: just did this repair. I used 12v crimp connectors that suppose to handle up to 17amps at 12v. Works perfectly, took me about 10 mins for complete repair. thank you!!!!
Thanks for this! I've long since switched to Milwaukee, but I've had this blower in my garage in the hopes i could fix it someday. It's the absolute best inflator for air mattress and and floaties!
Good video, thanks again. Done the same with a few of these but I leave the board in and just short across the FET. Reason is that I believe it leaves the DIODE's (ones you originally removed) in circuit. I believe the diodes are freewheeling diodes that reduce arcing in the DC motor. I could be wrong :) but am definitely too lazy to remove the board.
Be aware this doesn’t fix every issue. I did the hard wire because I had the same symptoms and it fried a brand new fully charged battery in seconds. Now I’m out a new battery when I could of bought a blower for the same price.
Excellent point for sure. I do usually show testing motors etc. with a current limited regulated power supply before putting back in service as with any repair we don't know if something else caused a failure, such as a shorted armature. I may have not shown it in this video, but I have a channel and share it with viewers in repairs often. I can't actually repeat every testing step in every single video, but try to cover it all throughout the hundreds I have taken the time to share. Sorry if it caused confusion and thanks for sharing your findings with us.
Hey, my Dewalt dce100 mini blower kind of pulsates when you hold down the trigger. The battery is good and it blows ok. I have taken it apart, but you show removing the screw and washers and the impeller coming right off. Mine isn’t coming off on removal of the screw and washers. Did you have to do anything else? Thanks
It could be different from this one, unsure. If pulsating it usually is the pack being pulled down, but if it does it with more than one pack it could be the current draw. The board could be seeing a high current and dropping out. If you cover the inlet a little to limit the air intake does it stop pulsating? It could be the board thinking the current is at the limit and it's really not also.
I have one of these that starts like it should but immediately dies. If I let the trigger go completely and then press it again it does the same thing. Any idea's on what's wrong with it?
@@ThriftyToolShed oh yes several batteries that show good and work fine on other tools. This thing only stays at full speed for maybe a second before it acts like I took my finger off the trigger. I can feather the trigger doesn't do anything different but if I let completely go of the trigger and then pull it again it will do the same thing again
Ok, I figured you had more than one pack. It just acts like the battery voltage is dropping out on the pack so the blower is shutting down. The packs are good so the control board must think the pack is getting low. The only simple thing I would think to check is a loose or bad connection from the pack. It could be corrosion or just bent pin etc. on the tool side. If not a bad connection then it must be the control board itself.
@@ThriftyToolShed You had to cut loose the control board so you could at least use the blow. Really , most of Us use blowers wide open anyway. And now with Larry Smith problem , most likely got to 86 the computer board again , so it can be used for more than just One second. Larry problem isn't an isolated incident , a bunch of folks are having this problem. like your channel
Hi, what type of low voltage protector would you recommend to use and where would you put it in the handle? Would you use in conjunction with 15amp fuse? If so does it matter which one is before the motor? Thanks for your informative videos.
Hi, It would have to be in its own enclosure strapped to the outside and run wires into the blower housing on this tiny thing. There is no room for a low voltage cut off board unfortunately. As far as a fuse, test the current with a clamp and you will be surprised how high it is on these blowers. Running on high it may pull over 30A. I typically would put the fuse right after the battery plus connection and then go to a low voltage cut off board and then back to the controller. I have several videos on the low voltage protection boards and they have links in the video description if it helps.
Brilliant diagnostics & remedy! I have a 60v Max brushless Dewalt blower that is going on 5 years. Presently, whenever I take my finger off the trigger it slows down making a grinding kind of sound that would make one think it needs lubrication. Other than the grinding sound upon trigger release, it works fine. I suppose it's a matter of mechannical aging. ANY THOUGHTS?
Sounds like the electronic brake could be activating. It usually is not super loud since it's not mechanical just slowing the impeller very quickly. It could be a bearing, but you would think it would also make noise while running at full speed as well. I have not seen that to say for sure. Thank you for your kind comment!
Mine operates for a split second however I have been using several smaller batteries can this be the culprit? I noticed the battery you have is much bigger. The person I purchased the tool from had a much bigger battery as well and showed me it worked perfectly fine.
I have two of the (small) 20v DeWalt blowers. My older one went like yours. On for a couple seconds, then off. Took apart and tried a similar fix as Thrifty Tool Shed. No success. Bought a brand new one (and batteries and a new charger). Having the same on for 2-3 seconds and quits. Probably will send into DeWalt, but shipping is so costly?
The buzzer is usually on the back and the disc has to be lined up and making contact with the contact points, usually a little spring or black conductive rubber cushion. That is all I have ever seen be wrong with the buzzer, I don't remember one ever going bad on me. The backlight is usually solid also, I don't ever work on them much. Make sure the led itself is ok. Not sure on this one, but most LEDs with the battery removed from the meter you can test the led with a DMM in the diode check function.Great job repairing the meter. Best of luck to ya!
I bought Dewalt because always know as a great brand but batteries die fast before I can finish my yard. Also a strings caught around the motor i cannot get the string to come out waste of money.
Sorry, I don't it's been a while. I would think a 50V would be fine and I can usually tell by the physical size (Diameter) which current rating it is. Best of luck to ya!
Well I don't think I mentioned replacing brushes in the description or title. They are not replaceable brushes on these motors. If you do desire to see a similar motor repaired with a brush holder replaced maybe this video will help? ruclips.net/video/krOoMQ0seGg/видео.html
May be a stupid question, but since the battery doesn't have run down protection, if you getvrid of the circuit board you could ruin your batteries if you're not careful right?
If you have tried different packs and still an issue then check for good connection to the tool and pack. If still an issue you have an issue with blower control board. Seems as though its not sensing the pack.
Simply experience with Brushed DC motors. Unless a bad connection or worn brushes the DC motor is bad in my experiences about 5% or less of the time and power electronics like speed control microcontrollers, Diodes or Mosfets about 95% or more. So just what I have seen the most and the way it was acting... I will say in cheaper brands such as Ryobi I have seen motor brush or brush holder issues on many tools so I would most likely have checked all the way through on a Ryobi tool since it's more like 30% of time a motor issue.
Well, at the end of this video I did remove the board and showed that I did take the battery straight to the speed control and use its contacts straight to the motor. So that is what I did. As far as a straight wire battery straight to the motor then it will run all the time with a pack inserted? Not good! As mentioned even the way I did this will drain the pack too low if you don't watch it and listen as the blower gets slow and weak. I personally can easily tell when the blower slows down and gets weaker. The other option is to include a module to alarm or even shutdown if pack voltage drops to cut off voltage. I have a couple videos about LVCO modules and I will be working on a more detailed one soon also. Best of luck to ya!
Nope, I will never buy another cordless DeWalt leaf blower again. I have owned two cordless DeWalt Leaf blowers and both have died shortly after the end of their warranty dates. In my opinion they are designed to fail.
I have not seen any of the Dewalt blower models be good competition against the top blowers honestly and still remain the most expensive in most cases as well. Not a place you want your company to be. DeWalt does make some great tools though. The blower design department may need a little bit of engineering help. Thanks for sharing.
Can you replace the brushes on the motor? I’m 90 percent sure my brushes are toast because of pieces that came out of the motor when I disassembled it. Hate to waste a good tool bc of a 50cent part
Can you replace the brushes on the motor? I’m 90 percent sure my brushes are toast because of pieces that came out of the motor when I disassembled it. Hate to waste a good tool bc of a 50cent part
@brose7956 I believe these are the type that are not made to be replaced. I did not work on this exact motor, but I have a video repairing a similar motor in the past. It should be similar in some ways. ruclips.net/video/krOoMQ0seGg/видео.htmlsi=gIHCFVa7q7nGLBYf
my DCE100B started out at 2 mins now lasts about 15 seconds and drops to 3 seconds each depression of the switch after 3 months. various batt backs all the same. was going to chuck it but will make this repair to see if it works. I use it on high most of the time anyways to clean my wood shop and mech shop. thank you.
UPDATE: just did this repair. I used 12v crimp connectors that suppose to handle up to 17amps at 12v. Works perfectly, took me about 10 mins for complete repair. thank you!!!!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks sir. Have the same thing going on with a brand new pole saw I got for cheap. Looks like I’m going to figure out how to bypass the board!
Thanks for this! I've long since switched to Milwaukee, but I've had this blower in my garage in the hopes i could fix it someday. It's the absolute best inflator for air mattress and and floaties!
Wow thank you I just fix my blower that was sitting on my tools for like 3 years now I can use it again thank you
Good video, thanks again. Done the same with a few of these but I leave the board in and just short across the FET. Reason is that I believe it leaves the DIODE's (ones you originally removed) in circuit. I believe the diodes are freewheeling diodes that reduce arcing in the DC motor. I could be wrong :) but am definitely too lazy to remove the board.
Actually it is the switch it reduces arcing across I think and helps prevent the contacts being burned out
Yes, agreed the diode as I mentioned in some other videos does help save the contacts.
Thank you. Mine works awesome now!!!!
Ty, this video helped me out a lot
PEORIA,ILLINOIS....AWESOME!!!
Very excited.
Be aware this doesn’t fix every issue. I did the hard wire because I had the same symptoms and it fried a brand new fully charged battery in seconds. Now I’m out a new battery when I could of bought a blower for the same price.
Excellent point for sure. I do usually show testing motors etc. with a current limited regulated power supply before putting back in service as with any repair we don't know if something else caused a failure, such as a shorted armature. I may have not shown it in this video, but I have a channel and share it with viewers in repairs often. I can't actually repeat every testing step in every single video, but try to cover it all throughout the hundreds I have taken the time to share. Sorry if it caused confusion and thanks for sharing your findings with us.
Hey, my Dewalt dce100 mini blower kind of pulsates when you hold down the trigger. The battery is good and it blows ok. I have taken it apart, but you show removing the screw and washers and the impeller coming right off. Mine isn’t coming off on removal of the screw and washers. Did you have to do anything else? Thanks
It could be different from this one, unsure. If pulsating it usually is the pack being pulled down, but if it does it with more than one pack it could be the current draw. The board could be seeing a high current and dropping out. If you cover the inlet a little to limit the air intake does it stop pulsating? It could be the board thinking the current is at the limit and it's really not also.
I have one of these that starts like it should but immediately dies. If I let the trigger go completely and then press it again it does the same thing. Any idea's on what's wrong with it?
Have you tried more than one battery pack?
@@ThriftyToolShed oh yes several batteries that show good and work fine on other tools. This thing only stays at full speed for maybe a second before it acts like I took my finger off the trigger. I can feather the trigger doesn't do anything different but if I let completely go of the trigger and then pull it again it will do the same thing again
Ok, I figured you had more than one pack. It just acts like the battery voltage is dropping out on the pack so the blower is shutting down. The packs are good so the control board must think the pack is getting low. The only simple thing I would think to check is a loose or bad connection from the pack. It could be corrosion or just bent pin etc. on the tool side. If not a bad connection then it must be the control board itself.
@@ThriftyToolShed You had to cut loose the control board so you could at least use the blow.
Really , most of Us use blowers wide open anyway.
And now with Larry Smith problem , most likely got to 86 the computer board again , so it can be used for more than just One second.
Larry problem isn't an isolated incident , a bunch of folks are having this problem.
like your channel
Same problem with my blower, shuts of after less than a second no matter what battery pack is connected
Hi, what type of low voltage protector would you recommend to use and where would you put it in the handle? Would you use in conjunction with 15amp fuse? If so does it matter which one is before the motor? Thanks for your informative videos.
Hi,
It would have to be in its own enclosure strapped to the outside and run wires into the blower housing on this tiny thing. There is no room for a low voltage cut off board unfortunately. As far as a fuse, test the current with a clamp and you will be surprised how high it is on these blowers. Running on high it may pull over 30A. I typically would put the fuse right after the battery plus connection and then go to a low voltage cut off board and then back to the controller. I have several videos on the low voltage protection boards and they have links in the video description if it helps.
Brilliant diagnostics & remedy! I have a 60v Max brushless Dewalt blower that is going on 5 years. Presently, whenever I take my finger off the trigger it slows down making a grinding kind of sound that would make one think it needs lubrication. Other than the grinding sound upon trigger release, it works fine. I suppose it's a matter of mechannical aging. ANY THOUGHTS?
Sounds like the electronic brake could be activating. It usually is not super loud since it's not mechanical just slowing the impeller very quickly. It could be a bearing, but you would think it would also make noise while running at full speed as well. I have not seen that to say for sure. Thank you for your kind comment!
Mine operates for a split second however I have been using several smaller batteries can this be the culprit? I noticed the battery you have is much bigger. The person I purchased the tool from had a much bigger battery as well and showed me it worked perfectly fine.
Yes, I am a fan of the 4ah and 5ah for sure. Still not heavy but really good runtime.
I have two of the (small) 20v DeWalt blowers. My older one went like yours. On for a couple seconds, then off. Took apart and tried a similar fix as Thrifty Tool Shed. No success. Bought a brand new one (and batteries and a new charger). Having the same on for 2-3 seconds and quits. Probably will send into DeWalt, but shipping is so costly?
I repaired my fluke meter the only thing is is that the back light doesn’t work and the speaker doesn’t work for continuity it doesn’t ever beep.
The buzzer is usually on the back and the disc has to be lined up and making contact with the contact points, usually a little spring or black conductive rubber cushion. That is all I have ever seen be wrong with the buzzer, I don't remember one ever going bad on me. The backlight is usually solid also, I don't ever work on them much. Make sure the led itself is ok. Not sure on this one, but most LEDs with the battery removed from the meter you can test the led with a DMM in the diode check function.Great job repairing the meter. Best of luck to ya!
I bought Dewalt because always know as a great brand but batteries die fast before I can finish my yard. Also a strings caught around the motor i cannot get the string to come out waste of money.
Thank you for the video. Do you happen to know the diode model. Mine is slightly melted and can’t read it. Thank you
Sorry, I don't it's been a while. I would think a 50V would be fine and I can usually tell by the physical size (Diameter) which current rating it is. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed No worries,thank you for the response,figured I’d try,it is much appreciated. Hope the new year treats you well. Thank you again.
That blower carries a mabuchi motor.
I was looking for some kind help to replace the brushes on this blower no help 🤨
Well I don't think I mentioned replacing brushes in the description or title. They are not replaceable brushes on these motors. If you do desire to see a similar motor repaired with a brush holder replaced maybe this video will help?
ruclips.net/video/krOoMQ0seGg/видео.html
May be a stupid question, but since the battery doesn't have run down protection, if you getvrid of the circuit board you could ruin your batteries if you're not careful right?
Correct. I mentioned that in video and I have several videos with low cut out protection boards if interested.
mine starts then stops each time i pull the trigger, it wont stay running
If you have tried different packs and still an issue then check for good connection to the tool and pack. If still an issue you have an issue with blower control board. Seems as though its not sensing the pack.
This is a common fault with this model. Realy a design flaw but i dont think dewalt is going to own up any time soon.
Why would you not have checked for 20 VDC at the back of the motor first?
Simply experience with Brushed DC motors. Unless a bad connection or worn brushes the DC motor is bad in my experiences about 5% or less of the time and power electronics like speed control microcontrollers, Diodes or Mosfets about 95% or more. So just what I have seen the most and the way it was acting...
I will say in cheaper brands such as Ryobi I have seen motor brush or brush holder issues on many tools so I would most likely have checked all the way through on a Ryobi tool since it's more like 30% of time a motor issue.
this looks like the dce100 model, wonder if this was fixed with the dce100b model?
Not sure about the differences in the dce100b model.
Do they make a brushless motor upgrade for it
Not any I am aware of.
Some said they removed board & hardwired. Can that actually work??
Well, at the end of this video I did remove the board and showed that I did take the battery straight to the speed control and use its contacts straight to the motor. So that is what I did. As far as a straight wire battery straight to the motor then it will run all the time with a pack inserted? Not good!
As mentioned even the way I did this will drain the pack too low if you don't watch it and listen as the blower gets slow and weak. I personally can easily tell when the blower slows down and gets weaker. The other option is to include a module to alarm or even shutdown if pack voltage drops to cut off voltage. I have a couple videos about LVCO modules and I will be working on a more detailed one soon also. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed
Thank you sir..I removed board now it works . I take battery off after im done using. Thanks for posting this video
👍
What's Name of the fuse you use?
I ended up using a 20A mini ATM fuse on mine. (Automotive fuse)
I know you've mentioned it in a past video, but what are those snap down wire connectors that you use?
WAGO lever nuts
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for your comment!
Another hack that works. As long it works it is good enough for me. 😃👍👍👍🍻
Nope, I will never buy another cordless DeWalt leaf blower again. I have owned two cordless DeWalt Leaf blowers and both have died shortly after the end of their warranty dates. In my opinion they are designed to fail.
I have not seen any of the Dewalt blower models be good competition against the top blowers honestly and still remain the most expensive in most cases as well. Not a place you want your company to be. DeWalt does make some great tools though. The blower design department may need a little bit of engineering help. Thanks for sharing.
Can you replace the brushes on the motor? I’m 90 percent sure my brushes are toast because of pieces that came out of the motor when I disassembled it. Hate to waste a good tool bc of a 50cent part
Can you replace the brushes on the motor? I’m 90 percent sure my brushes are toast because of pieces that came out of the motor when I disassembled it. Hate to waste a good tool bc of a 50cent part
@brose7956
I believe these are the type that are not made to be replaced. I did not work on this exact motor, but I have a video repairing a similar motor in the past. It should be similar in some ways.
ruclips.net/video/krOoMQ0seGg/видео.htmlsi=gIHCFVa7q7nGLBYf