How to Repair Honeycombing or Holes in Concrete
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
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In this video I will be showing you how to patch honeycombing or holes in concrete. We recently had this concrete pad poured for a garage and sadly the contractor wasn’t as much of a professional as they described themselves to be. Honeycombing is caused by improper vibration of the concrete, a dry mixture, or the concrete setting up too fast.
Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA
Cement patch: amzn.to/2YUuXKO
Pointed trowel: amzn.to/2MFqiKk
Wire brush: amzn.to/2Mx5F35
Canada
Cement patch: amzn.to/2Lu3bSs
Pointed trowel: amzn.to/3tt01Q5
Wire brush: amzn.to/3cOcWpW
There is quite a few spots that need to be repaired, some of the sides of the pad will be exposed and this isn’t the nicest to look at. This is an example of an aesthetic issue. In an extreme situation where any reinforcement is exposed, this would jeopardize the concrete structure and cannot be properly repaired using this method.
The pad is only a few days old, so I’d like to do this while the concrete is green to help promote adhesion.
Ensure the pad is dry and hasn’t rained recently. Clean the affected areas using a wire brush and a vacuum. The vacuum helps collect the debris as it’s loosened up. Loose debris may prevent the filler from fully adhering to the pockets. Any loose debris which falls out when applying the filler may also cause finish issues. Compressed air can also be used to clean any debris out of the pockets, this helps remove any debris.
Next is the product I’m using for a filler. There are various products available on the market, for me, I’m using Quikrete Anchoring Cement. While it’s primary intent is for anchoring or repairing anchor point, it’s other applications is for repair cracks or surface damage. This is a high strength expanding cement intended for outdoor use.
Mix the cement as per the instructions, so always refer to the product's specification. There will be a certain ratio between the mix and water. Add water slowly for a small amount, this is a quick setting cement, therefore if you mix too much, you may be left with excessive waste.
If you find the mixture is too thick, add more water. Too thick of a mixture won’t fill in holes as easily and may not leave a smooth finish. If you find the mixture is too runny, add more cement. If the mixture is too runny, it will not hold its form on vertical repairs and won’t have its full strength.
The consistency of my mixture should be able to hold its shape for a few seconds and then slowly move.
Using the putty knife, apply and force the cement mixture into the honeycombing and pockets.
Only apply a small amount at a time, so you don’t have excessive amounts falling on the ground as waste. Try to do this as quickly as possible, this type of mixture does set up quickly.
After that was finishing up with a small trowel, this is a pointed type that works great for small areas or tight places. Always make sure the trowel is clean and free of any surface debris which may prevent you from achieving a clean finish.
I have applied water to the trowel to help smoothen out the surface and prevent the cement mixture from sticking.
On another angle, I have already mixed up the cement. I’m working in about 2 to 3 foot sections to not get too far ahead of myself. This mixture sets up in about 10 minutes so my work time window is fairly small. Once that mixture sets up, it can no longer be used for the repairs.
Push the mixture into the holes using the putty knife. This will ensure it’s filled, when the mixture expands, it’s lock in place.
Once it’s in place, using the trowel, smoothing out the repair. With the wet trowel, you can work the mixture across the surface, filling in any missed spots. While the repair looks darker at the moment, once it dries and the water evaporates, it’ll lighten up in color.
The surface color will appear to be somewhat darker due to the work with the water or you may be left with some light roughness. To overcome this, here I’m using a mouse sander with 80 grit sandpaper. The concrete is harder, so the sandpaper gets used up fairly quickly. The 80 grit is rough enough to smoothen out the surface, yet it doesn’t leave a rough surface behind as what you may experience with wood.
After that, you can sweep off the surface to remove any dust. If you plan on applying some other surface type finish, then you’ll need to ensure the surface is completely clean of any dust or debris which may cause adhesion issues.
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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author. 
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Amazon links for various products used in the video for both USA and Canada:
USA
Cement patch: amzn.to/2YUuXKO
Pointed trowel: amzn.to/2MFqiKk
Wire brush: amzn.to/2Mx5F35
Canada
Cement patch: amzn.to/2Lu3bSs
Pointed trowel: amzn.to/3tt01Q5
Wire brush: amzn.to/3cOcWpW
Your instructions are succinct and well-understood. Rod Sterling would be proud of you. Excellent video and quality!!
Thank you so much, I really appreciate the feedback!
Nicely done. Thanks!
Perfect video for what I was looking for thanks
Happy I could help!
great content!!
Nice video- thanks for the info quite useful.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video props to you
Thank you so much!
I just had two retaining walls done very poorly. Thanks for the video.
Sorry to hear and you're welcome.
Hi can i used blue bond i have honey comb holes in my concrete ceiling.it so pricey i want do it myself
Thank you for bringing this issue to light and letting us know what it's called. Our new concrete steps look pitted on the sides and bits are cracking off at the bottom. I knew something wasn't right. Two of the steps have soil and bark next to them. Does moisture aggravate this problem? Any advice is helpful.
No its generally caused from not being vibrated when cast at that location.
I’m having a similar issue with a cantilevered swimming pool ledge. The contractor can not seem to fix it properly. Will this technique work for that application also?
Hi, can it be applied on honeycombs of a fresh 12 days old small concrete step?
Wondering whether Quikrete's product will adhere to previously coated surface. I have a minor cosmetic honeycomb area at corner of my concrete house foundation. Thanks!
They make a fiber reinforced variety that is supposed to adhere directly to block/ concrete. I'm about to try it right now. Never done concrete work and this is a 36"x28" opening. Hope it does well.
Do I have to wait a full 28 days for it to completely dry so I can paint over it?
48hrs
Hey how would you go about fixing all walls in a basement that are like this as well as corner pops and cracks/holes ?
Same method, although i've heard some say after the cleaning step to spray water on the wall to keep it from sucking all the moisture from the patching cement
@@darken3150 I forgot to add that the walls were previously painted by previous owner. Is this still doable?
@@misscd7777 Probably not, maybe fill in with something else that will stick to paint :/
Same method for pops or holes. I noticed in the comments you said it was painted, so that would definitely need to be stripped back. A blasting medium would be most likely best. However for cracks, if they're serious they'll need a special compound injected to seal the crack.
@@misscd7777 use a pressure washer to get rid of old paint, if you have lead paint on your hands use sand.
Crystal!
Thank you!
That honeycombing wouldn't comprise the structural integrity of the concrete at all. You should see bridges on the highways prior to rubbing and patching.
You're contradicting yourself with that comment. There is a reason bridges are patched. Honeycombing in an extreme situation can pool in water, if frozen it can cause the concrete the break apart further. Honeycombing also has the potential to expose rebar, this leads to rusting and again jeopardizes the structural integrity.
You’re a little hard on your man for not being a professional because of a little honey comb. Looks like he did a good job on the concrete
As someone who has had professional construction experience and for being a shallow area, its unacceptable. But I guess it's easy to have an opinion when you're not paying for it.
@@homesforbeginners I fired a guy for it. Guy burned the finish by trying to finish it too soon. The pour was to watery, and the finish has gaps and honeycombing.
@@homesforbeginners Agreed.
Most of what you were repairing was actually a cold joint, which is very suspicious with a slab of that type. Was there a long delay between concrete trucks. Also by the large yet still small micro pitting the mud was poured too tight.
All slabs get honeycomb
That is incorrect.