Thank you a thousand times. Frequent stalling plaqued the car (‘73 Super Beetle) to the point it was pushed aside and replaced. After viewing this “how to” I removed the idle screw on the right side, cleaned it, blew it out and voila!!! In 15 minutes it was running beautifully and returned to being a daily driver. I wish I discovered this site a long time ago. Thanks again
Man, best video so far. Everyone skipped cleaning the idle jet when it would die at idle. Pulled it, soaked and shook it in carb cleaner for 10 minutes, seems to have fixed the problem! Now I just need to wait for daylight and a proper length screwdriver to adjust the two screws on the left side and I am golden. Thanks for the quick and informative video!
That's the best video of carb adjustment on a Volkswagen I've ever seen and I have been looking. That motor is very smooth. And very tight. Very good job. It's easy to see that you really know those Volkswagen motors.
Thanks so much for the tips on how to set the carb and get the flat spots out. I lost my buddy Mr. Charlie he was 91 years old. He was like you, he built motors and dune buggies.. If I had a question I could call him up.Thanks for sharing your videos.
Because of this video i started working my ghia and fixed it on my own, the shop that i used wanted me to replace the carb, but i did this little fix and what do you know my ghia runs better than ever. Thanks alot for your help.😃
Hey VWdarrin, thank you, man. That tip of cleaning the 8mm jet first really works!!! You can feel/hear the difference, given everything else with the carb is right. I took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner screwed it back in and now it purrs and meows.
This vid really helped, I'm 15 and I got my 1972 super beetle to idle and run wayyyyy better. This made it so it didn't constantly die at stop signs and lights. THANKS FOR THE AWESOME VID!!
This is another great video!!! I really appreciate how comfortable you are in explaining things. Most mechanics, even if they are great mechanics, are not very good at actually teaching people things. You do a great job of explaining while you are actually doing things, which addresses two learning styles at the same time. Oh, and it helps that you actually really know what you are talking about!
Thanks for your videos. I reference them a lot when I'm workin on my VW stuff. Pretty sure I stripped my adjustment screw. Car went from running bad to not running.
thank you. I have had 8 VWs and have cussed Solex carbs for as long as I had them. Installed a bug spray carb just after I bought my '73 Thing new. Just recently had a shop adjust my 30/31 pic.on my 1600. The only thing I ever noticed on them is if you get to far off the carb gets really noisey.
Thank you for your easy informational video on this!! I had no idea I should start off with the idle adjustment first before touching the carburetor screw!! Thanks to your video I finally have my bug sounding and running perfect!🙏🏽
Hey Darrin, I have a 1600 dual port engine what's a 34 pict carb, I am getting a flat spot similar to what you are referring to later in your video. I have the accelerator pump set all the way out to give it Max fuel, what else could be my issue? Do you think I have an intake leak? Engine idles good and RPMs can be set as low as 800. Do you think I need to play around with jets?
Great video. Followed all steps starts and idles fine. After revving to approx driving range, bogs out and dies. Not sure where to look next. No vacuum leaks detected, all hoses connected. Using pertronix svda with matching coil & wire set.. Engine was 1600 but got the 88s from AA to bump up some power. Any help appreciated.
this video helped me alots thanks.i needed to clean the idles jets one I had to probe it but it worked and helped adjust my carb. now how important is it to adjust the valves, timing, and spark and point gapping to do this correctly?
hey! thanks for posting this! my bug has been running rough so im going to try adjusting the carb. It will run good most of the time but when i slow down to stop it keeps cutting off. i think the probablem is the amount of air that is getting into the carb. any advice???
Newbie VW guy here. Really helpful video, after 8-10 attempts to get mine to sound like yours, or even close! FRUSTRATED AS HELL...then I heard you say your generator was noisey..! What an idiot! Don't tell anybody! lol
Awesome Darrin... Maybe you can give me pointer, My 68 just started stuttering 2 days ago. When I'm in 4th gear going about 50 it starts stuttering trying to figure out what the hell it is. Don't wanna go out and get a new carb if I don't need one..thank you
Thanks for this great video, I have a question I have a 28 pict. That the throttle stays open doesn't comeback, I seen other carburetors that have a spring that makes it return to close position, this doesn't have one neither the attachment to install one, what can I do to fix this? Thank you.
Darren I just found out my 67VW I was trying to convert it to a alternator and I have a reversed polarity do you know any possible area that I should start trying to find that
Thanks for the video boss. I have a remote stater as well. Where did you connect yours to get it to work? Cause I'm having a hell of time trying to figure it out
Hello Darling, do you have any videos on working on checking a fuel injected type 1. I picked up a 1977 std beetle and am slowly trying to get it running. Thank you.
Hey great video, my friend has a 1971 Volkswagen Beetle he recently put a new carburetor on it, had the valves adjusted, had a full tune up on it, and it is sputtering in missing, almost like its running out of fuel, the carburetor is adjusted right but it keeps missing, and it is perfectly in time, what are your thoughts on it??
My 69 type 3 developed a knock. Maybe valve adjustment? I've driven it about 3-4000 miles since I bought it last year. It has a 1776 with Weber progressive carb
I have a question. My bus idles fine when 1st started. I drive it for a little. It stops running every time I come to a stop. I can turn the idle up it stays running. But the idle is to high. Any ideas
sounds like you might have an intake leak. check that the intake manifold and the carb are on tight. manifold boots are nice and sealed. I had this same issue where it would cold start and run ok but as it heats up it starts running weird and would die on me at stops. heat expands the leak and this is why it gets worse as you drive. Also, intake leak + high idle + lean mixture = engine running hot & excessive engine wear. Hope this helped you find a solution!
Do you know anything about the progressive webber conversion for the type 4 vw engine? I am thinking of going this route on my 73 914 Porsche. . It was running f.i. and I am in between the swap..
Hey Darrin. I've got an issue with my 1973 Westfalia. It has a newer 2000cc pancake motor with hydraulic lifters that I think is from a 1977 bus. I have set my timing using a light. The bas runs but it is hard to keep started. When I try to start it sometimes it backfires out of the carb. Once it is running it will drive normally when up to higher rpms. Would carb adjustment be to blame for the backfiring through carbs? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Does this work the same on all air cooled vw engines carbs? I am new to the vintage vw thing and just picked up a 1973 vw super beetle any help I can get is much appreciated
My 1972 VW Super Beetle (1300cc-engine letter AB) with a Bocar 34PICT-3 just will not idle. at all. runs completely fine, but if i try to let it idle for more than even 2 seconds it just dies, and dies quickly. any suggestions? I'm completely new to vw's, and cars in general, this being my first car. I just want my baby to idle
Darrin I notice you have the 009 distributor on that motor. I have the stock style on my 1600 dp is the adjustments the same? I know the 009 can be tricky
Thanks for the video. I have a question about the throttle cable tube in relationship with the fan shroud. I have a early 1961 1200cc 40hp VW engine. I've swap out the 6 V generator with a 12V System. The carburetor is a Solex H-30-pic.I bought myself a nice Chrome fan shroud. It's clear now this shroud was for a dual carb set up because it don't have a hole for the throttle cable tube. I decided to dry fit all the parts listed above, minus the generator/fan assembly. Looking inside the shroud I can see how the throttle tube would fit and it's going to be close. The hole, that I'll have to drill, will be a quarter of an inch from the generator tin. On the inside its going to be just as close to the oil cooler.With this info can you help me figure out what is going on. I'm just lost.
I had something of the same problem. The car had a 28 pict when I bought it 1964 bug 1200 cc. The car was converted over to an alternator and to do it they had to put a riser about 1 inch under the carb to make room for the alternator which threw off the throttle cable an inch too low. Relaced the carb with the correct one 28 pict 1 still had the problem with the throttle cable so I drilled a hole in the shroud about an inch higher and I riveted a flat piece of steel 3 inches long to the bottom of the aftermarket air cleaner, drilled a hole in the riveted steel. I used 2 return springs for VW Beetles made from 1971 to 1974 and it works good. So now the return for the throttle cable is on the bottom of the air cleaner. The air cleaner has to be tightened up real good you don't want it moving which mine hasn't in 6 months.
I went to the desert and my buggy started bogging when I would go into second gear and even if I came in with high revolutions from first gear do you have any idea why
Was wondering if very hot exhaust and rear skirt is normal. Put candy thermometer in dipstick tube and is reading between 190 and 200 during summer 209 if I run all day. Is this normal? First time bug owner and don't want to ruin engine. Runs good and can get it to 75 on highway.
Just in case anyone is still reading these posts, 200 degrees F is normal for oil temp and can go up to 230 with extended highway driving at 70 mph, which is ok with today's oils. 40 years ago I had a modified VW and it ran in that temp range constantly (dash mounted gauge) even with an extra oil cooler fitted.
Solid Tuning on an old VW. Really glad this content is here 2023!
Thank you a thousand times. Frequent stalling plaqued the car (‘73 Super Beetle) to the point it was pushed aside and replaced. After viewing this “how to” I removed the idle screw on the right side, cleaned it, blew it out and voila!!! In 15 minutes it was running beautifully and returned to being a daily driver. I wish I discovered this site a long time ago. Thanks again
thank's for checkink out the video. Glad it help ,
Man, best video so far. Everyone skipped cleaning the idle jet when it would die at idle. Pulled it, soaked and shook it in carb cleaner for 10 minutes, seems to have fixed the problem! Now I just need to wait for daylight and a proper length screwdriver to adjust the two screws on the left side and I am golden. Thanks for the quick and informative video!
That's the best video of carb adjustment on a Volkswagen I've ever seen and I have been looking. That motor is very smooth. And very tight. Very good job. It's easy to see that you really know those Volkswagen motors.
Thanks so much for the tips on how to set the carb and get the flat spots out. I lost my buddy Mr. Charlie he was 91 years old. He was like you, he built motors and dune buggies.. If I had a question I could call him up.Thanks for sharing your videos.
Because of this video i started working my ghia and fixed it on my own, the shop that i used wanted me to replace the carb, but i did this little fix and what do you know my ghia runs better than ever. Thanks alot for your help.😃
Hey VWdarrin, thank you, man. That tip of cleaning the 8mm jet first really works!!! You can feel/hear the difference, given everything else with the carb is right. I took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner screwed it back in and now it purrs and meows.
Excellent refresher course for us old 60 era gearheads. Thanks for the effort.
This vid really helped, I'm 15 and I got my 1972 super beetle to idle and run wayyyyy better. This made it so it didn't constantly die at stop signs and lights. THANKS FOR THE AWESOME VID!!
very cool
Did it die at idle before? Like all the time?
Fantastic help! Got our little super up and running as nice as can be! Now I just have to adjust the shift linkage to make it easier to shift!
This is another great video!!! I really appreciate how comfortable you are in explaining things. Most mechanics, even if they are great mechanics, are not very good at actually teaching people things. You do a great job of explaining while you are actually doing things, which addresses two learning styles at the same time. Oh, and it helps that you actually really know what you are talking about!
Good point on letting the engine warm up before adjusting
Thx man the info about clearing the valve on the right brought my 73 beetle back to life.
That’s the quietest VW I’ve ever heard. Nice. 👍🏻
Man I don’t know how I missed the 8mm on the other side but this was a awesome video thx from Canada 🇨🇦!!
Your video was exactly what I needed to get my Thing back on the road. Thank you very much Sir!
Thanks for your videos. I reference them a lot when I'm workin on my VW stuff. Pretty sure I stripped my adjustment screw. Car went from running bad to not running.
A very clear lesson and just what I needed. Thanks!
Great video....I feel much better with my tuning now.
Great video brother. Pretty sure I'll have that tough idle figured out tomorrow. I'm tempted to go tinker some at 2am
tweeker
mate with out this vid you done i would never have got my old bus going thank you
thank you for looking at the video
thank you. I have had 8 VWs and have cussed Solex carbs for as long as I had them. Installed a bug spray carb just after I bought my '73 Thing new. Just recently had a shop adjust my 30/31 pic.on my 1600. The only thing I ever noticed on them is if you get to far off the carb gets really noisey.
Thank you for your easy informational video on this!! I had no idea I should start off with the idle adjustment first before touching the carburetor screw!! Thanks to your video I finally have my bug sounding and running perfect!🙏🏽
Great info. No BS. I like this guy already
Thanks for posting.
Always like to watch the professional at work.
Sweet sounding motor and now runs like a watch :)
sweet engine, I have a type 1 1835 twin 40 idfs,with a 120 cam ,but I am thinking going back to 1641 with a single carb, thanks for the film
Awesome! Helped refresh my memory on the idle screw ! Thankyou
Blew out the idle jet with compressed air. Presto. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks! This works like a charm. Thanks for the info.
Just what I needed. Thank you for sharing this video 👍
Great vid Darrin
Darren your instruction has been of great help. Thanks
Man I can't to try that tomorrow morning, thanks bro.
Good tech video sir. That should help people cure some common problems with their VWs.
Lol I only watched the video until you said idle up solenoid that fixed my problem thanks
always on point thank you for the refresh its been awile on accel pump is backing nut off give me more fuel? thanks
AWESOME VIDEO!!
straight to the point, no messiing about, lovely
Hey Darrin, I have a 1600 dual port engine what's a 34 pict carb, I am getting a flat spot similar to what you are referring to later in your video. I have the accelerator pump set all the way out to give it Max fuel, what else could be my issue? Do you think I have an intake leak? Engine idles good and RPMs can be set as low as 800. Do you think I need to play around with jets?
Great video. Followed all steps starts and idles fine. After revving to approx driving range, bogs out and dies. Not sure where to look next. No vacuum leaks detected, all hoses connected. Using pertronix svda with matching coil & wire set.. Engine was 1600 but got the 88s from AA to bump up some power. Any help appreciated.
I found me a little gold nugget in there. Thanks D
this video helped me alots thanks.i needed to clean the idles jets one I had to probe it but it worked and helped adjust my carb. now how important is it to adjust the valves, timing, and spark and point gapping to do this correctly?
Does the needle of air mixtures need to be opened or closed?
hey! thanks for posting this! my bug has been running rough so im going to try adjusting the carb. It will run good most of the time but when i slow down to stop it keeps cutting off. i think the probablem is the amount of air that is getting into the carb. any advice???
Sounds like a timing issue.
On that original solex German carburetor you said there was only a single screw adjustment is that the low speed mixture?
Newbie VW guy here. Really helpful video, after 8-10 attempts to get mine to sound like yours, or even close! FRUSTRATED AS HELL...then I heard you say your generator was noisey..! What an idiot! Don't tell anybody! lol
gret video im so happy i found this hahaha
So what jet would you recommend ? i have a 125 jet in my Solex 34 pict 3 and 55jet, i live on the west coast.
Thanks for this info. A must for a newbie like me....
Mike IN IOWA
Awesome Darrin...
Maybe you can give me pointer,
My 68 just started stuttering 2 days ago.
When I'm in 4th gear going about 50 it starts stuttering trying to figure out what the hell it is.
Don't wanna go out and get a new carb if I don't need one..thank you
What should the fuel pressure be?
My 74 vw bettle is getting to much gas will this help it?
The "drain pot" stopper? What is it?
Thanks for that Darrin
Thanks for this great video, I have a question I have a 28 pict. That the throttle stays open doesn't comeback, I seen other carburetors that have a spring that makes it return to close position, this doesn't have one neither the attachment to install one, what can I do to fix this? Thank you.
So upjetting for 10% ethonol on a 34 pict 3. What would be the recomended jetting?
Darren I just found out my 67VW I was trying to convert it to a alternator and I have a reversed polarity do you know any possible area that I should start trying to find that
Thank you this was very helpful and solved my issue.
Nice job on the carb Darrin!!!
Thanks dude. That was helpful
Thanks for the video boss. I have a remote stater as well. Where did you connect yours to get it to work? Cause I'm having a hell of time trying to figure it out
I allaways learn something from you Darren. Many thanks!
Is it possible for some electrical issue to cause the engine to die on idle?
Thanks! That helps a lot!
i have the same noise sound i dont know where it come from ist from the fan ?
Hello Darling, do you have any videos on working on checking a fuel injected type 1. I picked up a 1977 std beetle and am slowly trying to get it running. Thank you.
Still a good video. I was having trouble and went back to find this. Said to myself, what did Darrin say again?
Great stack of VW vids............thanks !!!
Thanks for the help
Hey great video, my friend has a 1971 Volkswagen Beetle he recently put a new carburetor on it, had the valves adjusted, had a full tune up on it, and it is sputtering in missing, almost like its running out of fuel, the carburetor is adjusted right but it keeps missing, and it is perfectly in time, what are your thoughts on it??
Thank you clear precise and best of all very informative. Thanks again.
thank you Sir, for sharing this to us...very helpful...thnx
My 69 type 3 developed a knock. Maybe valve adjustment? I've driven it about 3-4000 miles since I bought it last year. It has a 1776 with Weber progressive carb
Hi darrin can you make a video on how to remove the gear box from a vw beetle with the body on
I have a question. My bus idles fine when 1st started. I drive it for a little. It stops running every time I come to a stop. I can turn the idle up it stays running. But the idle is to high. Any ideas
sounds like you might have an intake leak. check that the intake manifold and the carb are on tight. manifold boots are nice and sealed. I had this same issue where it would cold start and run ok but as it heats up it starts running weird and would die on me at stops. heat expands the leak and this is why it gets worse as you drive. Also, intake leak + high idle + lean mixture = engine running hot & excessive engine wear. Hope this helped you find a solution!
i have a 30/31 pict carb....can i replace it with a 30/31 pict 3.....
Thanks!
@vwdarrin When you say bog in the motor, what do you mean?
Do you know anything about the progressive webber conversion for the type 4 vw engine?
I am thinking of going this route on my 73 914 Porsche. . It was running f.i. and I am in between the swap..
Great stuff Darrin.
Hey Darrin. I've got an issue with my 1973 Westfalia. It has a newer 2000cc pancake motor with hydraulic lifters that I think is from a 1977 bus. I have set my timing using a light. The bas runs but it is hard to keep started. When I try to start it sometimes it backfires out of the carb. Once it is running it will drive normally when up to higher rpms. Would carb adjustment be to blame for the backfiring through carbs? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Does this work the same on all air cooled vw engines carbs? I am new to the vintage vw thing and just picked up a 1973 vw super beetle any help I can get is much appreciated
My 1972 VW Super Beetle (1300cc-engine letter AB) with a Bocar 34PICT-3 just will not idle. at all. runs completely fine, but if i try to let it idle for more than even 2 seconds it just dies, and dies quickly. any suggestions? I'm completely new to vw's, and cars in general, this being my first car. I just want my baby to idle
Thanks, helped a bunch.
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darrin..on a 30 pict 1.. DP what jet should i need a 130
Darrin I notice you have the 009 distributor on that motor. I have the stock style on my 1600 dp is the adjustments the same? I know the 009 can be tricky
Awesome instruction.
Could it be the fuel filter? Or the spark plugs? Maybe
great vid man!! to the point. helped me alot
That's neat shame we didn't know this morning as a guy was struggling with his van at the services and we couldn't help him.
Need help with 34 pict 4 carb to get it nice and good
Great information here.
Thanks for the video. I have a question about the throttle cable tube in relationship with the fan shroud. I have a early 1961 1200cc 40hp VW engine. I've swap out the 6 V generator with a 12V System. The carburetor is a Solex H-30-pic.I bought myself a nice Chrome fan shroud. It's clear now this shroud was for a dual carb set up because it don't have a hole for the throttle cable tube. I decided to dry fit all the parts listed above, minus the generator/fan assembly. Looking inside the shroud I can see how the throttle tube would fit and it's going to be close. The hole, that I'll have to drill, will be a quarter of an inch from the generator tin. On the inside its going to be just as close to the oil cooler.With this info can you help me figure out what is going on. I'm just lost.
I had something of the same problem. The car had a 28 pict when I bought it 1964 bug 1200 cc. The car was converted over to an alternator and to do it they had to put a riser about 1 inch under the carb to make room for the alternator which threw off the throttle cable an inch too low. Relaced the carb with the correct one 28 pict 1 still had the problem with the throttle cable so I drilled a hole in the shroud about an inch higher and I riveted a flat piece of steel 3 inches long to the bottom of the aftermarket air cleaner, drilled a hole in the riveted steel. I used 2 return springs for VW Beetles made from 1971 to 1974 and it works good. So now the return for the throttle cable is on the bottom of the air cleaner. The air cleaner has to be tightened up real good you don't want it moving which mine hasn't in 6 months.
Watching and learning.
Thanks for this video!
Great V-Dub! Brings back good 'ol memories. Have you used "Sta-Bil" fuel conditioner in compensating for the 10% ethanol crap?
Curious as to why the generator is so noisy?
I went to the desert and my buggy started bogging when I would go into second gear and even if I came in with high revolutions from first gear do you have any idea why
Was wondering if very hot exhaust and rear skirt is normal. Put candy thermometer in dipstick tube and is reading between 190 and 200 during summer 209 if I run all day. Is this normal? First time bug owner and don't want to ruin engine. Runs good and can get it to 75 on highway.
Just in case anyone is still reading these posts, 200 degrees F is normal for oil temp and can go up to 230 with extended highway driving at 70 mph, which is ok with today's oils. 40 years ago I had a modified VW and it ran in that temp range constantly (dash mounted gauge) even with an extra oil cooler fitted.
Video very proficional !!!
Very Informative. Thank You!