Brings back memories of industrial installation work with 3 phase motors and florescent lights. Conduit work is an art in itself and needs to be learned.
10:40 In college, I was taught to turn the die around and thread it on backwards in order to finish the partial threads at the bottom. That allows you to thread it all the way in with nothing exposed.
Love the way you explain why you turn the tool anti-clockwise during process. It’s obvious when you see it but now the process makes more sense. Thanks
Pro tip from a machinist.... Whenever buying taps & dies... ALWAYS buy HSS (High Speed Steel) manufactured tools... Some sellers advertise Carbon Steel as being a high quality product material... IT IS NOT !! Carbon steel is "old tech" tho still fine for wood chisels & the like. But it is quite brittle & taps & dies made from it are liable to chip teeth, or worse, snap whilst being used... not what u need when threading into an expensive piece of equipment. 😨 Loving the vids JW !👍😎
The carbon steel ones seem to be more in the cheapo sets of taps and dies sold in DIY type places, which are really only good for cleaning up existing threads.
John... yep ...carbon steel dies would be ok for cleaning threads, C.S. taps I'd avoid like the plague... 😱 btw... in case some don't know this, hexagon "dienuts" are ONLY for cleaning threads, not cutting new threads.. 😏 Circular split dies are for cutting new threads...😎
also its probably much less important with big chunky dies like that. with small taps, say M4 and below, you can snap the tool entirely if you keep cutting new thread for 2 or 3 turns
Me too... then I learned that haphazardly twisting back in forth like you have parkinsons while tapping does the job clearing the threads. Just don't cut too much thread at once. Cut a bit, back off, cut a bit, back off.
3/4 inch and 1 inch are the nearest equivalents of 20mm and 25mm. Not available now, but adaptors are so older installations can be extended using metric conduit. Screws for boxes were 2BA rather than 4mm. 2BA screws are still available.
When installing steel conduit outside, is it necessary to protect the cables from water ingress at the joints, especially where a joined fitting encloses cable joints? If so I would be interested to know how this is achieved as thread sealant pastes or perhaps PTFE tape on the threads could destroy the electrical continuity of the steel throughout its run.
I have a friend who started out as an electrician and he says that he hated installing conduit because the tallow would get on his hands and clothing and it stank!
Hi John, I've got a really stupid question. I assumed that 20mm conduit would fit a 20mm box, but this does not seem to be the case. I've measured the eternal diameter of the conduit and it seems to be 22mm, exactly the same as the diameter of the female section of the case. What have I done wrong?
Are you sure you have purchased galvanised steel electrical conduit, and not galvanised steel plumbing pipe? 20mm electrical conduit is 20mm outer diameter, 1/2 inch steel pipe is just under 22mm diameter.
John Ward, what resistance is recorded at a insulation test of 500 v between the finger of one hand to another finger, same body. Tested mine(got a little shock) with a megger 1730 and found that is 0.07 mohm(70 komm). IS this correct or my megger is not working properly? Looking in this video ruclips.net/video/v38PfIVy2rI/видео.html and the guy says that from fingertip to fingertip we have 1000 ohms. How the heck would that rcd trip if we humans have 70 koms? An 30 amp rcd for 230 volts needs 1667 ohms earth fault loop. What protection would we have if we touch the line conductor? Anyway at 70 kohms we would not need any protection at all. So there must be another way to determine the resistance, because the insulation way test with my Megger is not concludent. I tried an insulation test with a cheap multimeter and I get 100 kohm. Still not concludent.
I get angry with conduit.I've done some good conduit work in the past but then I dnt do it for yr's and end up looking like a newbie when I have to do some
Mr Badger .... thats a lie man !! U just watched JW doin it !! 😅😅😅😅😅 Seriously tho... if u only need a couple of threaded cons a hacksaws fine but if u were running pipe in a factory with lotsa cons an angle grinder saves some labour... 😎 But of course u know this... you're just nit-picking... 😅😅😅😅
Seriously, I know a grinder is far more common to have to hand these days, but I still haven’t seen it used for steel conduit (other than stripping it out) I hacksaw my steel conduit, thread it then just ream it out with my pliers. It doesn’t take long, I could be easily persuaded switch a power tool for the threading though! And if you struggle to get a straight cut on your conduits you simply need to practice more. Besides, most sites require a hot works permit to be issued for abrasive cutting which is a pain. Unistrut though, now that I usually use an abrasive chopsaw on although recently got a rage saw which cuts cleaner and doesn’t require hot works permits.
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
Brings back memories of industrial installation work with 3 phase motors and florescent lights. Conduit work is an art in itself and needs to be learned.
Then find an apprentice who's good at making tea to do the threading.
LOL you know it.
@@woden20 thats a human right violation these days making tea !!!
It is an art, some idiots today think its just labourers work, the ones that cant do it, lol
Especially learning how to make accurate bends with little wastage. No one really wants to go back to the wholesaler.
10:40 In college, I was taught to turn the die around and thread it on backwards in order to finish the partial threads at the bottom. That allows you to thread it all the way in with nothing exposed.
Love the way you explain why you turn the tool anti-clockwise during process. It’s obvious when you see it but now the process makes more sense. Thanks
Pro tip from a machinist....
Whenever buying taps & dies... ALWAYS buy HSS (High Speed Steel) manufactured tools...
Some sellers advertise Carbon Steel as being a high quality product material... IT IS NOT !!
Carbon steel is "old tech" tho still fine for wood chisels & the like. But it is quite brittle & taps & dies made from it are liable to chip teeth, or worse, snap whilst being used... not what u need when threading into an expensive piece of equipment. 😨
Loving the vids JW !👍😎
The carbon steel ones seem to be more in the cheapo sets of taps and dies sold in DIY type places, which are really only good for cleaning up existing threads.
John... yep ...carbon steel dies would be ok for cleaning threads, C.S. taps I'd avoid like the plague... 😱
btw... in case some don't know this, hexagon "dienuts" are ONLY for cleaning threads, not cutting new threads.. 😏
Circular split dies are for cutting new threads...😎
A follow up video on bending would be so helpful for myself and many other sparkies still trying to master conduit. Great content as always, thanks.
Hey John! Will you make a part 3 in this series? Including the bending? Thanks for all the great, informative videos you put out!!!
Nice video John. I can’t comment on this really as I have only installed PVC conduit to my shed. Non the less, quality video and very helpful!
Kyle.
none*
Thanks again JW, i was thinking it was simple, need to order an Irwin Vice and some cutting compound! Thanks to your video, help me again
Love your videos and dry humour JW. I wish you made more! Hope you're not melting in this heat. Be well :)
*edit* Funky shorts by the way
Love the videos, John.
Thank you, ready to do the garage now.
Thanks as usual very high quality. What about connecting to some of the sockets with installed back box
well done JW
when using taps and dies I was taught one turn of cutting then a quarter turn back
learn the rules, break the rules! :P
also its probably much less important with big chunky dies like that. with small taps, say M4 and below, you can snap the tool entirely if you keep cutting new thread for 2 or 3 turns
Me too... then I learned that haphazardly twisting back in forth like you have parkinsons while tapping does the job clearing the threads. Just don't cut too much thread at once. Cut a bit, back off, cut a bit, back off.
You are correct. the quarter turn back breaks the chip.
We were always told off in college for putting them back in the store room without cleaning them properly.
Hi JW, will you be doing a part 3 bending video to add to this series?
Yes, and a part 4 as well.
Hi. Could I please have the link for the bending video and also recommendations for a decent former Bender
Are you aware of the old imperial conduit size that was typically used on lighting circuits in the 60s / 70s ?
3/4 inch and 1 inch are the nearest equivalents of 20mm and 25mm. Not available now, but adaptors are so older installations can be extended using metric conduit. Screws for boxes were 2BA rather than 4mm. 2BA screws are still available.
@@jwflame thanks very much for taking the time to answer this much appreciated keep up the good work 👍
When installing steel conduit outside, is it necessary to protect the cables from water ingress at the joints, especially where a joined fitting encloses cable joints? If so I would be interested to know how this is achieved as thread sealant pastes or perhaps PTFE tape on the threads could destroy the electrical continuity of the steel throughout its run.
diymostthings I've never seen ingress of water through the threads.. maybe box lids but you use gaskets for that
That sounds reasonable - I suppose there could be problems in marine environments.
diymostthings We don’t use conduits in the marine environment.
How do you protect cables outside on a ship?
The cables are armoured this is a layer of twisted wire between sheaths of plastic usually PVC. As used also in industry.
Good video, nice shorts!
Thanks for your video.If u are cutting a hole for a 20mm conduit pipe, will the size of your drill bit be 21mm?
In theory yes - however 22mm drill bits are much more common.
@@jwflame I thank you for your reply.
Cheers John
I have a friend who started out as an electrician and he says that he hated installing conduit because the tallow would get on his hands and clothing and it stank!
Imagine how much he would have hated the job if he was a Hindu.
Very well explained thanks 🙏
Is this system designed for outdoor use? Can I used this conduit system if I have two sheds which are a meter apart? What are my options?
Yes, it can be used outside. Any exposed or cut parts such as threads need to be coated with zinc paint to prevent corrosion.
@@jwflame many thanks.
I would always look at the mineral insulated as a kid and think what's them carrots about.
Hi John, I've got a really stupid question. I assumed that 20mm conduit would fit a 20mm box, but this does not seem to be the case. I've measured the eternal diameter of the conduit and it seems to be 22mm, exactly the same as the diameter of the female section of the case. What have I done wrong?
Are you sure you have purchased galvanised steel electrical conduit, and not galvanised steel plumbing pipe?
20mm electrical conduit is 20mm outer diameter, 1/2 inch steel pipe is just under 22mm diameter.
@@jwflame I'm really not sure. I thought I'd got the correct stuff. Screwfix only seem to sell 20 & 25mm conduit. I'll have to take it back. 😕
Awesome video though, very useful and informative. Thanks very much.
@@jwflame screwfix gave me the wrong size conduit.
Brilliant thanks
good sir, pls add more videose on electrical house wiring
Thank u sir,can u show how to off set a pipe
nope, but I know how to make a pipe bomb.
John Ward, what resistance is recorded at a insulation test of 500 v between the finger of one hand to another finger, same body. Tested mine(got a little shock) with a megger 1730 and found that is 0.07 mohm(70 komm). IS this correct or my megger is not working properly? Looking in this video ruclips.net/video/v38PfIVy2rI/видео.html and the guy says that from fingertip to fingertip we have 1000 ohms. How the heck would that rcd trip if we humans have 70 koms? An 30 amp rcd for 230 volts needs 1667 ohms earth fault loop. What protection would we have if we touch the line conductor? Anyway at 70 kohms we would not need any protection at all. So there must be another way to determine the resistance, because the insulation way test with my Megger is not concludent. I tried an insulation test with a cheap multimeter and I get 100 kohm. Still not concludent.
Sweet conduit bro
Interesting the paste does not affect the conductivity of the joint
Do they sell these at screw fix ?
Two threads ,flat,round files,then lubricate this stops clogging files up with swarf.
Wire Wool :o)
Hello, I'm JW too!
me also
I'm surprised someone hasn't devised a pushfit system for steel conduit.
Conlok is the nearest to pushfit - the boxes are secured to the conduit with a small screw rather than being threaded. www.demoncato.co.uk/
I get angry with conduit.I've done some good conduit work in the past but then I dnt do it for yr's and end up looking like a newbie when I have to do some
when i did mine back in college i had to take a lot of fittings off my board to screw them in then put all the saddles back on again, it took ages...
Did loads a few years back, havent touched it since.
No lock rings?
Will K-Y do?
yes
Have you ever worked on site?
The first thing every electrician I know makes is handles for the stocks to make them easier to use.
Your disk on your angle grinder is on the wrong way, should always go the printed side facing the guard.
I wonder how the fellow from "electroboom" would do this?
Electric shocks and other unnecessary injuries would seem likely.
I jus cant get a straighten thread
Shorts!! For heaven's sake.
Hello, I'm JW!
no u aren't!
A parallel thread
This and metal trunking the worst first fix jobs ever.
I have yet to see any electrician use a grinder to cut conduit. Used properly, a hacksaw takes seconds to cut 20 or 25mm conduit.
Mr Badger .... thats a lie man !! U just watched JW doin it !!
😅😅😅😅😅
Seriously tho... if u only need a couple of threaded cons a hacksaws fine but if u were running pipe in a factory with lotsa cons an angle grinder saves some labour... 😎
But of course u know this... you're just nit-picking... 😅😅😅😅
I use a grinder on mine. When your doing loads of these one after the other, any help is a plus. Also makes a straighter cut than a hacksaw
Seriously, I know a grinder is far more common to have to hand these days, but I still haven’t seen it used for steel conduit (other than stripping it out) I hacksaw my steel conduit, thread it then just ream it out with my pliers. It doesn’t take long, I could be easily persuaded switch a power tool for the threading though!
And if you struggle to get a straight cut on your conduits you simply need to practice more.
Besides, most sites require a hot works permit to be issued for abrasive cutting which is a pain.
Unistrut though, now that I usually use an abrasive chopsaw on although recently got a rage saw which cuts cleaner and doesn’t require hot works permits.
Mr Badger ... 👍😎
I used my grinder last week on conduit for my garden