The climbing move of the year!
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- Опубликовано: 12 июн 2024
- Click the link below for a chance to win 1 of 5 Heavy Rollers from Lattice
▶︎ latticetraining.com/emil-latt...
The lache dyno is the most common move in the IFSC world cups this year, and today I set that move. Robin Rosenblad joins me and tries the boulder after it's done, and has an absolute epic on it.
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes...
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes...
Chalk Bucket
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Chalk bag
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Everything shot on Sony A7SIII.
PATREON LINK HERE: / emilabrahamsson
Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!
Instagram:
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/ cordiclimbs
/ robinrosenblad
Heyo all! Had a ton of fun making this video, hope you all enjoyed it 🙂
Remember to click the link for a chance to win 1 of 5 Heavy Rollers from Lattice ▶︎ latticetraining.com/emil-lattice-training/
Good luck everyone 🤞
Hi, you've mentioned about your wrists pain years ago? I have similar issue and trying to warm them nice before any climbing, what was your idea to deal with it and make them immortal ? :)
@@majkelb3057 I literally did the exercise I show in the video, but with a worse tool than the heavy roller. Once every session for maybe around a year until they were bulletproof, and since then I've had zero issues with my wrists.
1. roll the roller "backwards".
2. Load an amount that's heavy to lift, but you should be able to hold for a little while.
3. Let the roller slide through your hand, try to keep the flow as even as possible both on the sides but also how fast it drops.
4. Let it extend to a straight position over around 10 seconds.
Lattice has a few other exercises to do with it that I also think are great to check out 🙂
Weee
@@EmilAbrahamsson thanks mate ! Will try that
@@EmilAbrahamsson I won a a free heavy roller but can't use the coupon 😢 any ideas?? I didn't wait and went straight to the link to get it.
What I love to see is the drive these strong bois seem to have to keep trying a hard move over and over until they get it. I know a weakness of my climbing is quitting before I get a chance to really learn the movement. This is inspiring not just because he sent but because he just. kept. on. trying! Great video guys!
I loved the "weeee" audio on the IFSC footage
Good to see Robin again!
My gym set a lache dyno at the ~V4 level a few months ago. I found it SO HARD to control the momentum and the hip position. Watching this makes me want to try again.
What a hypnotic move to watch
Super nice to go from that dynamic move to steady sticky move on the slope 💪🏽
You know, I’m actually glad to see how hard that move was. Emil made it look sooooo easy! Glad the dude sent eventually though!
The shoulder rotation with that one arm lache is insane, so psyched to see that in a world cup in the future
love Emil's casual but encouraging attitude
thanks for the video and the heavy roller! cheers!
Finally, a sponsor I can get behind
What a cool move!
As I sit here, off climbing for a few months with a rotator cuff injury, I find this inspiring... and a little daunting!
;-)
all i do is fart and climb☹️
Was super bored tonight going through old Magnus videos but now I have something to watch
Cheers mate, hope you like it
Such a great video and very interesting topic!
Thanks!
Great vid! I think it might also be interesting to explore a backward lache move where you turn in the middle of the backswing. I think I've seen that done by someone on a World Cup and I have been thinking about situations in which that might be the better option.
Ah mate funny you should mention that, I literally set something with that idea in mind like 4 days ago. It creates some very interesting ideas regarding momentum-usage
That is a great coincidence! :D I think it might even be easier for some people to get momentum from the backward swing compared to the normal lache!@@EmilAbrahamsson
Quite interesting that this has become “the move of the year”, I think we started setting these kind of movements like 4/5 years back for the first time. Or at least that is the first time I got introduced to the “lambada” or “balançoir” never before heard it described as a lâche dyno tho 😁
Lache is what it’s called in gymnastics
Actually won one of the rollers! Thanks Emil!
Edit: Nevermind, the website had en error and was giving away more than the first 5 :(
Sorry about the false positive 😕 Hopefully they could help you sort something out
I've got routesetting this weekend. Hope I'll be able to set somehting similar!
I don’t know why I found it so funny that the first person shown when explaining what a lache dyno is, is Pete lol.
Hahah I'm happy you picked up on that, I semi-ironically put him there because you know.. it's pete, the trad dad. He did the move really well though!
@@EmilAbrahamssonLache into hand fist stack when?
Love all your videos man, one of my biggest inspirations for climbing and bouldering. Where’s the hair tutorial tho 🧐
Thanks homie.
Ouf.. hair tutorial? I’m not your guy for that, I’m just a mixture of chalk and sweat
Doing these dyno moves with slippers is a bit insane...😜
.
Every lost attempt was a consequence of a high foot on a box, not a hold. 😅
I was thinking the exact same thing. You can clearly see how far out on the foothold he landed when he stuck it. He also put a lot less into the lache momentumwise that time.
Nice video ma man
Can you please make a video how to overcame your wrist pain and explain what exercises we should do. I have started my climbing journey three months ago and I have been progressing rapidly, and yet my wrist pain in my dominant arm started holding me back the past couple of week. I would really appreciate your guidance to help me recover.
Hey Emil, I'm curious what pants these are? I like climbing with long pants but seem to never really find the compromise between wide enough and slim to not wobble around. Yours seem to maybe be just that. Cheers
Sick video! I must say you made that look so easy (even after 12hrs of climbing), what is the secret sauce sensei?
Haha mate I have no idea. We shot this right after the previous video, and I was about to cancel the plans because I was so exhausted. Pumped up with a midnight coffee and treats and just went for it, somehow recovered enough energy to pull through
Guess you were still in "the flow". I think that is what the cool kids are calling it at the moment 🤣
Either way, super cool route, going to go catch to the setters at my local gym and see if we can get a replica going 💪
The problem I'm facing most with these lache moves is to hit the foot correct because I can't really aim for it when swinging my feet...any good tips for that? Robin seems to be struggling with the same thing
it helps to release a bit asymetrically (one hand after the other) so that you can basically twist one shoulder out of the way to spot the landing.
Hey Emil - I have a quick question regarding your wrist pain:
Where and how did it hurt? Was it during the move or right after releasing the move? Cuz I’m currently struggling a bit with wrist/forearm pain right after releasing a hold (also mostly slopers) and I didn’t really find a working solution up to now :(
You should check out hoopers beta I believe they’ve got a vid abt this if not lattice probably will
Watching you slowly lose the will to live was very entertaining 🤣
Was he not getting enough side to side motion? I thought at the beginning it was said the point is to sort of approach in a curve so that you're momentum is going more straight on when you hit the landing. Or was it just missing the foot hold!
He keeps missing the foot. All the failed attempts had the foot over the blue hold more or less only on the box. When he did stick it was spot on the blue hold. Nice to see the progression and also the send go from another session.
ayyy joining the party early
We're thrilled to have you here homie
He was clad with the same clothes when he sent the project. Was it on the same day?
eyy thats the gym where Eric made a bunch of vids back in the days (2 years ago lol)
“Weee!”
Lmao. Painting Yannick Flohé as lover of laches 🤣🤣
I heard he thinks they perfectly replicate outdoor boulders and loves all the world cup boulders
he just needed the motivation from a thousand bees to get it done
Hahaha my camera is broken so the sound is just the lens trying to focus :)
It‘ so funny that the lache founds his way to bouldering now. The „Lâche“ basically has it‘s roots in the „Methode Naturelle“ by George Hebert back in the days. Later on David Belle and the Yamakasi made a basic Parkour move out of it. I think if you really wanna train this move properly you can do this on the ground for example by focusing on a precised and controlled landing. For example landing on a large yoga block with just your toes is a great way to improve this skill. There are crazy people out there who can swing like 20ft++ and land on a railing. Video: ruclips.net/video/r-6SmrAvYsU/видео.html
The wheel for the giveaway is eternally stuck. Guess they took it offline. Love your vids anyway!
Drone 2.0???👀
yo the lattice sign-up thing is not working right now
Strange, works for me. Could it be that you're blocking pop-ups or something like that?
HAHAHAAHA I LOVE THE "ONE LAST TRY" MENTALITY
The poor lad got obsessed
@@EmilAbrahamsson i wouldve been too surely ill get it next try!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think he was landing too high on the foot volume. Every attempt he stuck he landed much closer to the bottom on the screw on hold and every attempt he failed he was higher up usually on the volume and not on the screw on hold. I think landing higher up was preventing the hips from moving over the feet which is needed to stick the move.
Hahahahhaha go weeee
Hello Emil, It says on the lattice website that I won a heavy roller but when i use the cupon code from gmail it says that the cupon limit has been reached. Does this mean that I cant get it?
Strange.. I'm looking into it, will post an update in the pinned comment as soon as I know what's going on!
Without knowing for sure, I'm wondering if it's programmed so that once the 5 heavy rollers are already won, it can still pop up as a "win" but without a functional code. But again, messaged them to see what's up and will keep you posted!
@@EmilAbrahamsson thanks😃
@@siggedalen3272 Hey mate, it seems like my previous comment was accurate, although it is now fixed. They said to email: contact@latticetraining.com and see if there's something they can sort out, so I would recommend doing that 🙂
@@EmilAbrahamsson tack så mycket!
Oof sorry about the flapper, would love some skincare tips for those
WEEE
Just so you’re aware, if you win the free heavy roller, don’t hesitate. The coupon expires in 15 minutes😳
עלי לולי
Gym climbing is becoming more and more like fast fashion
Ask Toby Roberts how much he likes this move!
Oh yeah I’ve heard it’s his favorite move, especially on a lead route
11:09 paper beats rock 😏
You are using the wrist wrench the wrong way around at 2:09. You are supposed to have the strap rolled the other way so it tries to break your wrist, not roll into your palm making the movement easier.
There’s many ways to use it! The way you describe is certainly harder though
@@EmilAbrahamsson That is the purpose wrist roller was designed for, although of course you can use it for nonintended purposes
Can't wait until the biggest climbing move of the year is a crimp...
I'm pretty sure at this point a crimp ladder would be considered "revolutionary"
third
For real first for once?
Haha for real! Welcome to the party
Oh dang... sorry, second 😅
At this rate, it almost feels like you don't even really have to _climb_ in climbing comps anymore.
Hopefully, this period of trying to get the competitors on novelty will end & they will start building actual boulders
Don't wanna hear this from people that barely climb 6a zzz
One of the reason the problems are more parkour-ish is cause they're trying to solve the issue of climbers having eating disorders. They don't wanna people starve themselves just so they can crimp a bit harder. With these kinda moves, you're kinda have to have some muscles to do them.
@@hmmm9323 well, that plays a role as well, no doubt.
The idea about eating disorder actually comes from the video Alex Megos did with Dr Schöffl.
Timestamp:
ruclips.net/video/w0Ev_b6w3GY/видео.html
@@RM-xq7gf Luckily, you're not 😏
first
Legend
Imo all dynos and slabs are Not real climbing. This means you cant say that yoh are a V8 climber because you sent a V8 slab lol
V8 slab = V14 overhang doe... Dynos I might have to agree on
It's a horrible move.
Really.. the cringe wee meme. Im outta here.
Yeah, you are far too cool for a video with a silly sound effect!