Framer here, don't worry about the terminology, but that builder f'ed up by using a joist in place of a rim board there. I've never actually seen that done in 30 years. Good on you for being thorough and taking care of your customers. Also not wanting to get sued for potential bodily injury. 😉
Glad to see someone else doing it right. I’ve seen so many deck ledgers installed right over the siding it’s not funny. The rot to the siding and band joists gets worse over time and is a lot of work to repair properly. I’ve seen it rot 3’ in on the floor joists and on a walk out basement completely rot all the studs out, plywood completely black with mold and soaking wet! Solid blocking and proper flashing is key. Think like a rain drop!
If you can get to the back side and you're going all the way through already, it seems like you might as well use lag bolts. A washer and nut are a lot harder to pull through than threads in OSB. That said, your way will work very well and will already be 50x better than what was there.
Most the decks I build are 16 to 30ft tall on sides of cliffs and the key to them all are the footings. I have yet to see a deck stay up due to bolts in the ledger boards it's always the footings that are the strength.
My plumbing and pipefitting knowledge tells me you are doing a good job Doctor. Integrity. Something lacking in some circles but you have this covered. Great job Doctor. Peace. Oh, and Happy New Year !!!
Great work Doc making it right. Years ago built a full brick home and attached wood post to the basement foundation walls to support our large deck. In over 30 years never no issue, did not like the thought of attracting deck to lag bolts going thru the brick to band board.
Just kidding , been a long time since we gave each other shit a work. Miss those days. Good to see you living your dream so well. Your a great carpenter, always have been.. much respect
Ya. All around north east carpenter here. 3/4 cdx ply ripped to fill the space. Could also use a couple thru bolts if u are worried. Usually they use a solid piece of engineered lumber for the rim
Please consult with a structural engineer and get this evaluated. This is a whole bunch of wierd. TJI's are not supposed to be used for rim material. The web is not designed to be loaded this way. I suspect they will want to to put plywood on both sides of the web (called web stiffners). Then add full depth blocking inside the house between the I-joists. The blocking will likely be a 2x12 ripped down to the height of the I-joist. That blocking will need to bear on the wall below. That blocking will be what actually supports the deck. You will also probably have to use a lot more fastners to secure the ledger. Something like every 1/2" lags every 6-8". In any case this is a situation where you should 100% have it evaluated and spec'd by a structural engineer. I do not think your fix will fly. Thats just me sputballing and how I would do it if it were my job.
A builder should never, ever use an I-joist as a rim. It doesn't have the compressive strength. That house is structurally unsound and the I-joist needs to be replaced with a proper rim.
You are allowed to use a TJI as a rim board. Its just not practical on larger TJIs with wider flanges. "It doesn't have the compressive strength" Using a TJI as a rim board is very common on 4+ story hotel and apartment buildings. I think it's going to be okay on a house.
@@davidbuck9977 Except that isnt a TJI I joist its a Boise Cascade BCI-Joist which in their docs they state to use their engineered rim which most of 1-1/8" thick or you can use solid sawn lumber.
This is interesting! Definitely something to watch out for with "newer homes". Would half inch all-thred with a nut and a large washer on both ends works? Was the old deck pulling away from the house?
So what is going to fix the fact you have that big door with header and whatever is above it sitting on a single tji with no web stiffeners or blocking?
Should have been a solid rim but you gotta do what you can. I’ve got a question for the DR. I am planning a 70x16 deck on a new 8” ICF wall-walls ballon framed no rim or belly board to outside. There are 1/2 j bolts wet set at 32” - not staggered for ledger. Was planning titan hd bolts to stagger and bring ledger fastening to 16”oc. Would you have other suggestions or tips? Thanks and love the videos
You can make your sandwich of various products your plywood on the outside with glue and then your 2x8 on the inside and that 2x8 will rest on the sill plate so once you bind all the way through that 2x8 it's going to pick up all that load and transfer it down to that sill plate plus it's going to keep it from ripping out I think you have a wise idea here. It's amazing what some people will do some of these decks are death traps waiting to happen. Also that earthquake strap isn't connected to anything if that's an engineered I joist your best bet would be to unscrew the earthquake strap and then bind it to your plywood and 2x8 on the inside so it actually has something to hold on to to keep the house from moving.
And this is why in the future all decks will be free standing by code. I joists suck but are light and cheaper than floor trusses so thats why we see them so often. Oh, and they really suck at fire ratings.
That was my first thought, save al that trouble and dig a few more footers, free stand the whole frame, and move on as to not open any more house structure to water.
@@matthewshull8376 right? I mean literally the last entry in the decks section in IRC states "If you can't verify solid attachment to the structure; the deck must be free standing." So you know its a fully code viable option. I just think this would be cheaper in the long run.
@@matthewshull8376 when I build a free stander I actually use a beam UNDER joists near missing house attachment, even if the rest of the deck is flush joist and bolted to posts.
Good on you for recognizing the problem. I think I would have called the I joist manufacturer to get his recommendation and buyin with your fix since he engineered the joist. While your fix might be good if that house ever has issues it could also roll you up in a lawsuit.
I've seen this many many times.. All we ever do is put a 2x10 or 2x8 inside with some 3" screws to hold it.. Then put treated ledger board on outside with 3" screws.. Then 6" GRK's or ledger locks on staggered 12" layout
Too bad more contractors were not as responsible and honest like you. Not saying all are bad, but too many get away with stuff because it is usually covered up and many folk don't know the in's and out's of what is correct and safe. Good for you.
Thats way overkill id just infill from the outside with 3/4” osb glue and screwed and youll be more then great. How it was definitely looked sketchy but youd be surprised how much weight it will hold, ive seen way engineered repairs that are way simpler.
I agree with jcoman definitely the wrong way !! I started using these in the early 80s after I saw an ad for new products, but never on outside structures !!!!
The code DOES NOT say you can do what was done. Every stack of I-Joists delivered to the job site had a basic "how to install" set of instructions. I never leave a rim joist alone, which was not installed on this house, I add squash blocks from the foundation to the under side of the subfloor. A rim joist is 1 1/4" thick. It is chip board. I would never leave a house to sit and be supported on just a rim joist. The local building inspector should be taken account for this. NO WAY was there a proper inspection done. That I-joist web is 3/8" thick. THE ENTIRE WEIGHT OF THE HOUSE IS BEING SUPPORTED ON A STANDING 3/8" THICK CHIP BOARD. IT WILL COLLAPSE.
There’s a lot more problems going on with this film than you can believe first of all the strap is not back through the joist area big problem there incorrectly waterproof the TGI should have a rim. The structural values are insufficient for support and you’re just gonna fill it in and screw it, which is not to code either Check with your local officials code has changed. You’re required to put in a lot more hardware than just what you’re talking about.
Too much yapping, you need to show what you’re doing much better, more up close shots, try to explain more when you’re doing it, and not so much before.
Framer here, don't worry about the terminology, but that builder f'ed up by using a joist in place of a rim board there. I've never actually seen that done in 30 years. Good on you for being thorough and taking care of your customers. Also not wanting to get sued for potential bodily injury. 😉
Happy new year; appreciate your frankness about terminology - refreshingly honest and well considered. Love your work... Signed... Lurker
Glad to see someone else doing it right. I’ve seen so many deck ledgers installed right over the siding it’s not funny.
The rot to the siding and band joists gets worse over time and is a lot of work to repair properly. I’ve seen it rot 3’ in on the floor joists and on a walk out basement completely rot all the studs out, plywood completely black with mold and soaking wet!
Solid blocking and proper flashing is key.
Think like a rain drop!
Reside the area and make the deck free standing.
If you can get to the back side and you're going all the way through already, it seems like you might as well use lag bolts. A washer and nut are a lot harder to pull through than threads in OSB. That said, your way will work very well and will already be 50x better than what was there.
Most the decks I build are 16 to 30ft tall on sides of cliffs and the key to them all are the footings. I have yet to see a deck stay up due to bolts in the ledger boards it's always the footings that are the strength.
Still horrible work tho
My plumbing and pipefitting knowledge tells me you are doing a good job Doctor. Integrity. Something lacking in some circles but you have this covered. Great job Doctor. Peace. Oh, and Happy New Year !!!
Great work Doc making it right. Years ago built a full brick home and attached wood post to the basement foundation walls to support our large deck. In over 30 years never no issue, did not like the thought of attracting deck to lag bolts going thru the brick to band board.
Just kidding , been a long time since we gave each other shit a work. Miss those days.
Good to see you living your dream so well.
Your a great carpenter, always have been.. much respect
Ya. All around north east carpenter here. 3/4 cdx ply ripped to fill the space. Could also use a couple thru bolts if u are worried. Usually they use a solid piece of engineered lumber for the rim
Please consult with a structural engineer and get this evaluated. This is a whole bunch of wierd. TJI's are not supposed to be used for rim material. The web is not designed to be loaded this way.
I suspect they will want to to put plywood on both sides of the web (called web stiffners). Then add full depth blocking inside the house between the I-joists. The blocking will likely be a 2x12 ripped down to the height of the I-joist. That blocking will need to bear on the wall below. That blocking will be what actually supports the deck. You will also probably have to use a lot more fastners to secure the ledger. Something like every 1/2" lags every 6-8".
In any case this is a situation where you should 100% have it evaluated and spec'd by a structural engineer.
I do not think your fix will fly.
Thats just me sputballing and how I would do it if it were my job.
100% agree
The top 5 most important steps when attaching a deck, in order are:
1) Flashing
2) Flashing
3) Flashing
4) Flashing
5) Flashing
A builder should never, ever use an I-joist as a rim. It doesn't have the compressive strength. That house is structurally unsound and the I-joist needs to be replaced with a proper rim.
You are allowed to use a TJI as a rim board. Its just not practical on larger TJIs with wider flanges.
"It doesn't have the compressive strength" Using a TJI as a rim board is very common on 4+ story hotel and apartment buildings. I think it's going to be okay on a house.
@@davidbuck9977 I stand corrected. I would never do it though for a variety of reasons... the first being "why?".
@@davidbuck9977 Except that isnt a TJI I joist its a Boise Cascade BCI-Joist which in their docs they state to use their engineered rim which most of 1-1/8" thick or you can use solid sawn lumber.
This is interesting! Definitely something to watch out for with "newer homes".
Would half inch all-thred with a nut and a large washer on both ends works?
Was the old deck pulling away from the house?
So what is going to fix the fact you have that big door with header and whatever is above it sitting on a single tji with no web stiffeners or blocking?
Should have been a solid rim but you gotta do what you can.
I’ve got a question for the DR. I am planning a 70x16 deck on a new 8” ICF wall-walls ballon framed no rim or belly board to outside. There are 1/2 j bolts wet set at 32” - not staggered for ledger. Was planning titan hd bolts to stagger and bring ledger fastening to 16”oc. Would you have other suggestions or tips? Thanks and love the videos
You can make your sandwich of various products your plywood on the outside with glue and then your 2x8 on the inside and that 2x8 will rest on the sill plate so once you bind all the way through that 2x8 it's going to pick up all that load and transfer it down to that sill plate plus it's going to keep it from ripping out I think you have a wise idea here. It's amazing what some people will do some of these decks are death traps waiting to happen. Also that earthquake strap isn't connected to anything if that's an engineered I joist your best bet would be to unscrew the earthquake strap and then bind it to your plywood and 2x8 on the inside so it actually has something to hold on to to keep the house from moving.
And this is why in the future all decks will be free standing by code. I joists suck but are light and cheaper than floor trusses so thats why we see them so often. Oh, and they really suck at fire ratings.
oh ya how soon?
Fill between the top rail n bottom rail with solid material glue and screw both sides and extra board on the inside
is it really that hard to build a free standing deck to get around that?
That was my first thought, save al that trouble and dig a few more footers, free stand the whole frame, and move on as to not open any more house structure to water.
@@matthewshull8376 right? I mean literally the last entry in the decks section in IRC states "If you can't verify solid attachment to the structure; the deck must be free standing." So you know its a fully code viable option. I just think this would be cheaper in the long run.
@@matthewshull8376 when I build a free stander I actually use a beam UNDER joists near missing house attachment, even if the rest of the deck is flush joist and bolted to posts.
You could on a first floor deck, but i would be concerned about a second story deck getting wobbly.
@@huejanus5505 he is standing on the ground in the video is he not?
Good on you for recognizing the problem. I think I would have called the I joist manufacturer to get his recommendation and buyin with your fix since he engineered the joist. While your fix might be good if that house ever has issues it could also roll you up in a lawsuit.
I've seen this many many times.. All we ever do is put a 2x10 or 2x8 inside with some 3" screws to hold it.. Then put treated ledger board on outside with 3" screws.. Then 6" GRK's or ledger locks on staggered 12" layout
I use only pressure treated rim with hot dip galvanized 16D nails. Makes it easier for deck builders. Inspectors like it. Termites hate it.
Too bad more contractors were not as responsible and honest like you. Not saying all are bad, but too many get away with stuff because it is usually covered up and many folk don't know the in's and out's of what is correct and safe. Good for you.
You normally do step down from door to deck?
As bad as the first contractor "attached" the original deck, I've seen worse: A deck screwed into nothing but the house's aluminum siding!
Instead of using that truss joist the builder should have a 2 x “whatever”….how did that pass the original frame inspection???
I ran into this once , i was not happy, didn't want to believe it
Thats way overkill id just infill from the outside with 3/4” osb glue and screwed and youll be more then great. How it was definitely looked sketchy but youd be surprised how much weight it will hold, ive seen way engineered repairs that are way simpler.
Where is this? Why didn't the inspector catch this? I'm thinking this might not be the only problem
You got the lingo right ,shame on the builder and or the contractor
I agree with jcoman definitely the wrong way !! I started using these in the early 80s after I saw an ad for new products, but never on outside structures !!!!
The code DOES NOT say you can do what was done. Every stack of I-Joists delivered to the job site had a basic "how to install" set of instructions.
I never leave a rim joist alone, which was not installed on this house, I add squash blocks from the foundation to the under side of the subfloor.
A rim joist is 1 1/4" thick. It is chip board. I would never leave a house to sit and be supported on just a rim joist.
The local building inspector should be taken account for this. NO WAY was there a proper inspection done.
That I-joist web is 3/8" thick. THE ENTIRE WEIGHT OF THE HOUSE IS BEING SUPPORTED ON A STANDING 3/8" THICK CHIP BOARD. IT WILL COLLAPSE.
TJI floors are supposed to be rimmed with LVL wtf lmao
Ask the town for recommendations
There’s a lot more problems going on with this film than you can believe first of all the strap is not back through the joist area big problem there incorrectly waterproof the TGI should have a rim. The structural values are insufficient for support and you’re just gonna fill it in and screw it, which is not to code either Check with your local officials code has changed. You’re required to put in a lot more hardware than just what you’re talking about.
Rim joist
Builder in NH, never seen that and I hope I never do, hack jobs
Belly band rim board la rima in Spanish
Typical american built, not the greatest and not the best. Allways great job by DrDecks
Too much yapping, you need to show what you’re doing much better, more up close shots, try to explain more when you’re doing it, and not so much before.
Learn your material dude
You don't know how to build a house cause you bought your journeyman card....
And Costco still accepts food stamps...
Never tie a deck or porch to a building water issues