Hercules 71/4 Metal cutting carbide tooth saw blade review
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2024
- Hey everyone I hope you all are doing really well thanks for watching this video in this video I do a review of the new Hercules 7 and a quarter inch carbide tooth metal cutting sawblade
This is such a great part 2 to your last video!
Great video!
After some research, I bought the Hercules Demolition blades for reciprocating saw. First experience with the brand. Very impressed.
Hey, thanks for the view and the comment. I definitely agree with you. They are a force to be reckoned with thanks again.
That cuts so smoothly I have to consider the possibility in a circular handsaw for cutting metal roofing.
Hey great coment I think if you used a straight edge with A corded or cord less saw this blade would do wonders for you
Awesome 👍😎 video brother 👍
I like the lennox metalmax blades. I bought a cheap harbor freight chop saw and use it for them. Very loud and slow cuts but they work and have minimal clean up.
Dont want to ruin my steel demons on plunge cuts but if these are cheaper it might be a worthwhile thing to get a few of them.
Hey I totally you agree with you for $27 you can't go wrong I've used mine quite a bit since I've made that video and so far everything has worked out really well one of my main motivations was on the packaging it says for cored and non cored sawsI figured anything goes thanks for the comment and the view
I have the Hercules 14" miter and was about to snag one of those blades during the 30% off sale, but I didn't. Wish I did now. Thanks for the video!
Darn that's too bad I was really kind of skeptical but it really did a great job thanks again for the comment and the view
The 14in hercules metal cutting blade isn't meant for the 14in metal chop saw. It's a cold cutting blade made for cold cutting saws. The hercules 14in chop saw is an abrasive saw. Your gonna see teeth flying like shrapnel if you use that combo.
@@ThePainkiller3666 thanks for the heads up. Glad I didn't get it.
@@gillihansmobilewelding btw its a 12in but if your looking at getting its amazing i have the sliding compound and the stand and both are top of the line and i have yet to find a stand anywhere near as nice as the hercules
@@TOOLS_AND_MORE They had a 14 inch at HF, but was over $60.
that’s a great deal on a blade of that style for 35 years i ran a ArchitectualWoodworking Company and for the Installation team we sent out 10” ChopSaws with AluminumCutting Saw Blades to cut 1/4” thick Angle we used Freud Blades and Delta Miter Boxes. i used to laugh because at my cost it was a $85.00 saw with a $125.00 Blade FYI the Warrior blade in the video is constructed very similiar to the Freud with the Carbide Teeth approximate same thickness , and the Similiar Releif Kerfs that help lower Vibration ,Noise , and Heat to the blade FYI our Steel was Cut in our shop withFreud Blades on 14” Milwaukee brand Saws
Hey excellent comment I noticed that with the larger 14" blades evolution dewalt Milwaukee et cetera on and on by the time you buy 2 blades you've already surpassed the cost of the actual saw so it just makes so much sense to me especially for the capacity that you can cut and also the versatility that you get Is phenomenal with this setup thanks again for your input
Having used both of these and others, it is still hard to find one that lasts. The only thing to do is get a saw blade sharpener and resharpen blades or use abrasive discs, but then changing them often is a haste 🤷♂️
So I have that same issue too every once in a while I feel like I will get one that will last a little bit longer and what I do is I take them to a sawblade sharpening shop and I can get several sharpenings and they work great Thanks for the comment and the view happy New Year
If I'm not mistaken, this blade is rated at 3500 rpm. I think the saw is rated at 5000 rpm. Sounds a little dangerous to me.
Good eye for safety. I appreciate your input when I purchased the saw blade that thought crossed my mind. It said on the packaging for cored and noncored saws, so I figured anything goes. Thanks again
I was trying to figure out what saw he was using
Safety never sleeps
Do you have a speed control to bring the rpm down? Cuts look super clean
Hey that is a great question on the packaging it said for corded or uncoreded saws so I just took that as anything goes thanks again
So was this chop saw originally a wood miter chop saw, not intended for metal cutting? I’m asking because I believe I have the same model saw and had never considered it would hold up to cutting metal. 8:26
@robertofloresvelasquez328 A speed control or designated metal miter saw is recommended. However, woodworking mitersaw can be used. Dangerous venture though....
Those are pretty good
I wonder if they can make one thats safe for the rpms of a normal miter saw
On the package it says safe for cored and noncored saws so I just went with it seems to be fine for me Great question though
Started out a revies of the Herculers blade, but was a review of the accuracy of the miter saw. Blade seems to cut metal just fine. Hope the one I bought, will cut 1/2" steel plate in hand-held saw.
I think if you take it easy you should do just fine
How many cuts does it do before it’s dull? I bought one for a job. Just wondering how long it’s going last.
that's a great question. It's also a very difficult question to answer because there are so many variables like the type of thickness of the material. You are cutting also how many cuts you need to make and also the hardness of the material so far every time that I use mine it's been great. And it's lasted me quite a while but I'm mostly cutting thinner stuff thanks again. I hope this was somewhat helpful.
Metal cutting saws cut a lot slower half the speed of a normal wood / abrasive saw ok as a get you out of trouble dont know about long term you can get speed reducers that plug in line with the power cable but i would look onto that a bit more dont know how this affects the motor
I would recommend a blade over a abrasive wheel though cuts cleaner cleaner hardly any sparks safer (i have seen a abrasive wheel shatter) better to store abrasive wheels can get damaged quite easy
Just be sure you have the right saw blade for the metal you are cutting Steel. Aluminium. Stainless
Or a universal blade though not as good as a dedicated blade i say about the difference blades as it will make the teeth last longer if you can get sme blade wax to put on as this helps the blade last aswell
Great Comment, I appreciate your thoughts and insights. I've been using my blade. on 14 gauge and 16 gauge. And it seems to be doing really well. Knock on wood, thanks again.
I'm worried about the longevity and safety of the blade and this particular miter saw combination. The hercules blade has 3500rpm max but the kobalt saw goes up to 5000rpm.
Hey I appreciate the view and the comment I think for short term use in emergency situations it should be OK as long as it is you work safely and keep your work secure thanks again
Has anyone used these product on rebar?
As for myself I would not recommend it on rebar because it is work hardened or if you are gonna do a rebar job with it just. Make sure that you know you're gonna throw away the blade at the end of the project.
Will it cut through 3" material?
I'm sorry, 1 more question :Hercules also has a 14" metal cutting blade. Would that work on a regular chop saw?
I'm sure it would if you made a pass and then flipped it over and made another pass it would do fine I think also depending on the wall thickness too
I think it would do fine on thin wall materials such as 16 gauge to 14 gauge but that's it my younger brother tried it and I think it just wound up cooking the blade
I've cut 1 1/2 in plate with mine it was at it's capacity that's for sure wouldn't want to do it but mine does 1 in no problem
My bad mine is the circular saw I use it to cut training coupons all the time mine will cut bevels as well
Rpm????
For the machine or the sawblade?
Considering you completely ignored the low RPM detail, that cut great...for now..
I've used that saw blade off and on since I produced the video. It's worked great and I've had no issues. Thanks for the comment and the view.
That blade is not designed for an abrasive cutter or a wood cutting chop saw.
Thanks for your advice much appreciated
Blade cut steel good but will not cut stainless
I definitely agree with you. This blade does excellent in mild steel. Stainless steel will destroy this blade. However, you can get it resharpened
My man... I noticed the first thing a lot of people noticed while reading through the comments. I appreciate the video you made, but this is irresponsible of you to be using a miter saw with a metal saw blade. The RPM rating for each is very important and while the actual tolerance of the materials is higher than rated, they are like safety chains. They are rated that way due to unexpected fluctuations in applied force to fail without fracture in >99% of failures. Applying centrifugal forces to that blade outside of that range invalidates the safety features of the materials and structure of the blade and puts you at significant risk of a catastrophic failure (shrapnel from fragmentation) due to irregularities in the material being cut. Imagine a poorly welded or torch cut piece of metal with a portion of it's grain structure heat-hardened while portions of it remain mild steel. The differential forces that blade can experience can cause it to shatter at the miter saw's RPM whereas the teeth would simply chip or break at the rated RPM.
Please reconsider how you do your crafting. I have a friend that had to get facial reconstruction surgery after a blade failure from a similar situation. He was wearing eye pro otherwise he would be blind or dead.
Hey, thanks for the comment and your insights much appreciated. I've been using that setup often on for some time now. And I've never really had any Issues. I always try to lean towards 16 gauge and 14 gauge. And I always make sure that my work is very secure. Thanks again.