Neat trick, can't say I'd have thought of that. That Nylon Black Braided stuff frays worse than the regular stainless steel because its a soft woven material. Personally I grab some scissors and give the frayed ends a trim at like a 45 degree angle. Just at the very end of the line as that isn't super integral to the hold of the fitting. Quick note: Fitting nuts aren't threaded where they accept the hose, they are just straight ridges inside. So it doesn't matter which direction you twist the hose in. I find it helpful to go both ways, I kind of twist back and forth and push straight down into a vice, it goes smoothly. I'll post a picture on IG later today showing a cross section. I cut up a couple AN Fittings to demonstrate that very fact to someone on TikTok yesterday.
@@PuddinsFabShop I'll be giving the super glue a try in the future. I just wrapped up an entire plumbing project but it is a solid idea. I watch when I get a chance. Can't claim that's all the time but I like what you are doing.
Hey puddin, just so you know, your tip DOES work with stainless braid lines. I used the gel kind and rubbed it into the wire than taped it. Let it set overnight, trim the end with a cutoff on my dremel, and the fitting went on much easier. Figured I'd share that with you and your faithful followers.
@@PuddinsFabShop been a while since I watched this video, but I think you mentioned not being sure if it would work. That's one of those "Why the heck didn't I think of that!?!?" things.
lol. I too always have tuff time with -an fittings . I couldn’t think of an idea to make it easier …….man the crazy glue thing … why in the hell I didn’t think of that !!!!!! Great tip that I will be passing around . Thank you .
nice trick! I had troubles and i ended up putting a socket into my shallow vise and put the tube nut in and pushed down with the hose. That was the only way i could get it on with my 140LB body. Nice video
I’ll have to try the super glue trick. I’m getting ready to do the stainless transmission lines in my 72’ Nova. Ill make a video of it and post it on my channel. I’ll keep ya posted. Thanks for the video and trick! One thing I’ve always done on stainless lines, is to put a drop or two of oil on the hose and on the inside of the fitting to help make the two go together easier.
Puddin's Fab Shop you did. I put oil inside the female end where I twist the fitting on the line. I saw you put oil on the threads. Not saying you did it wrong. I add oil to both pieces. I may have misunderstood what you said.
Worked on several yesterday and struggled with the same issue. I got so frustrated I threw them in the trash and bought pre-made hoses. I will try this trick next time!
I need to try this, im about to redo the plumbing on my supercharger intercooler hoses and changing them to an fittings and an hose. I usually trim the frayed part with scissors but not having to have that extra step will save some time
Instead of tape to secure the weave, use a small zip tie and tighten! If you are doing lines, it is well worth-while to invest in a braided-line cutter (has curved jaws that cut from all angles). Use the zip tie and cut in one motion with the braided line cutter. Simpler ones are about $40, nice ones are $70-80. Well worth it to get your lines clean and cut quickly
Thumbs Up ! Great idea......Maybe the manufacturer should/could watch your video and they could/should add this trick to their product instructions and video "How to's".....Thanks for sharing.
That's a good tip I have had good luck with using cheap habor frieght shrink wrap over it before u cut it instead of tape seemd to hold better and come off easier thats on stainless stuff I've not worked with nylon but I'm going to soon 😉
WILL NOT WORK WITH STEEL BRAIDED line. It is to flexible and steel braid with PLING out in all dirctions. Shrink rap can't resist the PLING. Been there-tried that.
You don't have to explain anything about whatever you do. If it works for you than just do it. Later from Saratoga Springs NY!! OH YEAH!! Thank you for your service! I'm a Marine Corps VN veteran!!
Nice videos man!! I’m doing up a 1962 c10 long bed. Can you give me a suggestion on what gas tank I could go with? I’m moving it to the bed and running a 5.3 ls and bagging the truck, so it’s a lay frame. Any help would be great. Thanks.
Without doing any research on what you could swap in it’s hard to say. I guess that comes down to budget and if you want after market or something factory.
Was there a particular reason you went with braided lines and AN fittings other than they look cool, I was thinking of using plastic lines for fuel, Dorman make a nice kit for making them. Thanks for sharing your videos!!
While not the case here.... DIESEL. The scruge of diesel fuel lines as they age is air leaks. yup. fuel does not leak out. AIR leaks in. More joints you have..... more possible air leaks. Better joints you have. ( like thread on- w/ chamfer- and matched cup fitting).... the better off your life will be. PS- this fitting type was taken from Airplane builders... simpler but more robust is REQUIRED in that industry.
Here some DON'T!! - 1. Forget 4an Steel Braid and lower. If you ordered it.. SEND IT BACK: unless you have a one hell of a shop and hose making apparatus. 2. in numerous of my searches.. and even on the hose delivered to me... they had electrical tape on the ends. What fools... those idiots gave me hours and hours and hours of failures and nightmares working with the Steel braided line. It worked just "ok" with the nylon braind. Problem is the stuff stretches... IT WON'T resist the natural desire of Steel Braid to want to splay out. That stuff just wants to PLING out and BE FREEEE.. what a nightmare.... esp. in AN-4 and below. IMHO the "nylon braided" you don't need the superglue.. Trick there is.. don't take the tape of. Peel back most the layers but leave one. You can rip half the width leaving only some on the hose's outermost edge.. so the tape won't show at the nut. Well that is for AN-6 and up. When it comes to AN-4 and lower Steel Braided..... NO... JUST SAY NO.. . IMHO with steel braided use tape that does not stretch for 6an and up. Masking/Painting tape works great. Again for 4an and lower Steel Braided (see reply to this post) DON'T even try Braided steel 6an and up- here is where SUPER GLUE is THE ONLY WAY TO GO. There is no Tape type to help; you with steel braided. This is when I (before this video popped up in my feed today.. 3 weeks later) came up with the super glue idea. PUddin is right NO ONE had posted that. Wish with my hours of searching/reading in advance to prep myself .... whish like hell had seen your video. Searches NEVER brought yours up. grrrrr. With Steel Braided put tape on to mark end of the length of hose your making. When you make your "mark" for hose length- leave estimate room for the Glue and cut process. Don't cut yet. you've not glued yet. Then you want to glue next to it tape (or line) . Remove tape ASAP or it will stick down- it's just put there earlier to remind you were you need glue/ and mark length of your hose..... aka when your cutting not at an open end, but instead somewhere down the length of the hose. As you remove the"marker" tape ... use a tiny chunk of that scrap tape to make a mark to indicate you just glued ahead of it. Super important on steel braid because it is clear and disappears from view. BTW- You will at times sacrifice some steel braided hose. like inch or two.. It will be waste..... cause when you glue it ONLY helps the process if you put it on TIGHT braided area. You have to sacrifice any loose/flared.. even tiniest of flared area of braid. Superglue will NOT help you get splayed out "steel braid s" to lay back down!!!! All you do is get bloody fingers trying that. With nylon braid different story as Puddin described in above video... . Once glue is dry... then like Pudding did; put tape there and cut - suggest USE A FINE CUTTING INSTRUMENT: something with mm thin cut off wheel. With Dremmel you will use numerous wheels per cut. Cut beyond any minute amount of flare showing if your doing steel. Also cut to keep tape on both ends once cut is done. For cut guide you can draw line around on tape, or use a second layer of tape with edge of new layer used as your cutting guide etc. With the glue. with nylon braid... yeah.. you can remove the tape when done.. Steel.. dont suggest it. Just peel all but one layer off.
REMINDER..... above is 6an and up. ALL THE ABOVE for 4an AND LOWER when dealing with Stainless Braid- chunk it all in the garbage....Above will be a fail. Mayyyyyyybe if you got a shop with plethora of tools and vises and clamps.. otherwise. FORGET IT.... it aitn goinna happen with 4an and lower Steel Braided. You will never get the nut on; EVER!!! even with superglue,. Even with superglueing Braid... putting on tap and superglueing that too, it will not keep the end from splaying out. It will still splay just tiny amount enough anyway, to make it no way to get nut on. You mighttt in very lower pressure applications get away with using 4an steel braided line by carefully cutting off just enough braid to install fittings on the Rubber part only. Ill report back if I spring leaks. Was too late to return my 4an steel braided line so Im praying it works......... got hours and hours and hours in this and NOTHING works to get nut on 4an steel braided without hose making equipment... and if you got that you would not be using AN fittings anyway.
Neat trick, can't say I'd have thought of that. That Nylon Black Braided stuff frays worse than the regular stainless steel because its a soft woven material. Personally I grab some scissors and give the frayed ends a trim at like a 45 degree angle. Just at the very end of the line as that isn't super integral to the hold of the fitting.
Quick note: Fitting nuts aren't threaded where they accept the hose, they are just straight ridges inside. So it doesn't matter which direction you twist the hose in. I find it helpful to go both ways, I kind of twist back and forth and push straight down into a vice, it goes smoothly. I'll post a picture on IG later today showing a cross section. I cut up a couple AN Fittings to demonstrate that very fact to someone on TikTok yesterday.
Fun fact. I had no clue you watch any of my videos so this comment was great.
Also a great example of why I sent people your way for technical info!
@@PuddinsFabShop I'll be giving the super glue a try in the future. I just wrapped up an entire plumbing project but it is a solid idea.
I watch when I get a chance. Can't claim that's all the time but I like what you are doing.
I’ve seen in instagram you’ve been busy on your old mans truck. It’s looking great. I understand as I’m in the same boat. Thank you 🙏🏻👊🏻
Hey puddin, just so you know, your tip DOES work with stainless braid lines. I used the gel kind and rubbed it into the wire than taped it. Let it set overnight, trim the end with a cutoff on my dremel, and the fitting went on much easier. Figured I'd share that with you and your faithful followers.
That’s awesome. It made it way easier on me!
@@PuddinsFabShop been a while since I watched this video, but I think you mentioned not being sure if it would work. That's one of those "Why the heck didn't I think of that!?!?" things.
what size.... Im guessing 6an and up.
That’s awesome!! Great tech tip.
👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
lol. I too always have tuff time with -an fittings . I couldn’t think of an idea to make it easier …….man the crazy glue thing … why in the hell I didn’t think of that !!!!!! Great tip that I will be passing around . Thank you .
nice trick! I had troubles and i ended up putting a socket into my shallow vise and put the tube nut in and pushed down with the hose. That was the only way i could get it on with my 140LB body. Nice video
Thanks for sharing, nice little shortcut instead of going INSANE!
I was getting frustrated by the 3rd failed attempt
I’ll have to try the super glue trick. I’m getting ready to do the stainless transmission lines in my 72’ Nova. Ill make a video of it and post it on my channel. I’ll keep ya posted. Thanks for the video and trick!
One thing I’ve always done on stainless lines, is to put a drop or two of oil on the hose and on the inside of the fitting to help make the two go together easier.
I do lubricate the fittings. I thought I mentioned that lol oops.
Pudding - you did mention adding a drop of oil @ 6:08. 👍
Puddin's Fab Shop you did. I put oil inside the female end where I twist the fitting on the line. I saw you put oil on the threads. Not saying you did it wrong. I add oil to both pieces. I may have misunderstood what you said.
It’s all good. My minds always going a million miles an hour when I’m out there and I mess stuff!
Puddin's Fab Shop I’m the same way. Always trying to think ahead and what I’m doing next. Great video like always!
That's pretty good, I think I'll use that the next time I have to use AN fittings.
Thanks for the tip. Cheers😊
Worked on several yesterday and struggled with the same issue. I got so frustrated I threw them in the trash and bought pre-made hoses. I will try this trick next time!
I’ve done several since then. Name brand and knock off. I’ve never had to do this truck again. Maybe you and I just got a bad batch!
Innovative, that's what I appreciates about ya 😁
Thanks! 👊🏻
I need to try this, im about to redo the plumbing on my supercharger intercooler hoses and changing them to an fittings and an hose. I usually trim the frayed part with scissors but not having to have that extra step will save some time
looking real good puddin.
Perfect timing. Starting fuel lines again next week. I’ll try this out
👊🏻👊🏻
Instead of tape to secure the weave, use a small zip tie and tighten! If you are doing lines, it is well worth-while to invest in a braided-line cutter (has curved jaws that cut from all angles). Use the zip tie and cut in one motion with the braided line cutter. Simpler ones are about $40, nice ones are $70-80. Well worth it to get your lines clean and cut quickly
Great idea.
👊🏻👊🏻
Thumbs Up ! Great idea......Maybe the manufacturer should/could watch your video and they could/should add this trick to their product instructions and video "How to's".....Thanks for sharing.
I doubt there would be any interest but you never know.
Excellent video and thanks for the tip!!!!!
That's a good tip I have had good luck with using cheap habor frieght shrink wrap over it before u cut it instead of tape seemd to hold better and come off easier thats on stainless stuff I've not worked with nylon but I'm going to soon 😉
That works!
WILL NOT WORK WITH STEEL BRAIDED line. It is to flexible and steel braid with PLING out in all dirctions. Shrink rap can't resist the PLING. Been there-tried that.
You don't have to explain anything about whatever you do. If it works for you than just do it. Later from Saratoga Springs NY!! OH YEAH!! Thank you for your service! I'm a Marine Corps VN veteran!!
Best tech tip ever!
That’s a bold statement! Lol
Cool tip thanks.
👊🏻👊🏻
That is like a strata flex fitting
Nice videos man!! I’m doing up a 1962 c10 long bed. Can you give me a suggestion on what gas tank I could go with? I’m moving it to the bed and running a 5.3 ls and bagging the truck, so it’s a lay frame. Any help would be great. Thanks.
Without doing any research on what you could swap in it’s hard to say. I guess that comes down to budget and if you want after market or something factory.
Puddin's Fab Shop I’m just looking for something cheap they will mount in my bed frame rails and will adapt to an LS motor
Smart idea.
Great tip👍👍🇨🇱
🙏🏻🙏🏻👊🏻👊🏻👍🏻
Looked good to me. 👍
Nice trick
Thank you!! It did help!!!
Freaking genius 👏
Super glue…..Nice tip Thanks 👍
Was there a particular reason you went with braided lines and AN fittings other than they look cool, I was thinking of using plastic lines for fuel, Dorman make a nice kit for making them. Thanks for sharing your videos!!
Just look nice and easy to work with. Also easy to find all the fittings
While not the case here.... DIESEL. The scruge of diesel fuel lines as they age is air leaks. yup. fuel does not leak out. AIR leaks in. More joints you have..... more possible air leaks. Better joints you have. ( like thread on- w/ chamfer- and matched cup fitting).... the better off your life will be.
PS- this fitting type was taken from Airplane builders... simpler but more robust is REQUIRED in that industry.
Nice tip
Instead of the die grinder to cut it,
What about a hot wire knife used for styrofoam...
Possibly if you have one.
Absolutely love watching you all way from uk 🇬🇧 do you have a Facebook page ?
Not as Puddin’s Fab. Just a personal.
@@PuddinsFabShop that’s a shame would have been nice to chat and talk fabrication 👍
More bit's Lot's and Lot's to go.
👊🏻👍🏻
👍👍😎👍👍
👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
whenever I’ve done hydraulic fittings like those I’ve always been told not to bottom them out fully.
👍🏻
Goody more BIT'S.
I like the word dodie now! Lol
@@PuddinsFabShop Sorry about that CHIEF.
I can't see why the super glue wouldn't work as well tbh I'll use it in the future
Don't use Snap-On Flank Drive wrenches on them.
I don’t own snap on anything lol
@@PuddinsFabShop I bought my Flank Drives 25 years ago, when I started working on cars professionally and didn't know any better. lol
Nothing wrong with them just not in my budget! Lol
Link to the ebay supplier...
www.ebay.com/itm/20ft-6AN-Stainless-Steel-Fuel-Line-Braided-10PCS-Swivel-Fitting-Hose-End-Kit/121941053237?pageci=dda32940-92eb-47a9-8a0b-f4c1221db164
@@PuddinsFabShop
Thanks,
what a fuckin sweet heart!
Here some DON'T!! - 1. Forget 4an Steel Braid and lower. If you ordered it.. SEND IT BACK: unless you have a one hell of a shop and hose making apparatus. 2. in numerous of my searches.. and even on the hose delivered to me... they had electrical tape on the ends. What fools... those idiots gave me hours and hours and hours of failures and nightmares working with the Steel braided line. It worked just "ok" with the nylon braind. Problem is the stuff stretches... IT WON'T resist the natural desire of Steel Braid to want to splay out. That stuff just wants to PLING out and BE FREEEE.. what a nightmare.... esp. in AN-4 and below.
IMHO the "nylon braided" you don't need the superglue.. Trick there is.. don't take the tape of. Peel back most the layers but leave one. You can rip half the width leaving only some on the hose's outermost edge.. so the tape won't show at the nut. Well that is for AN-6 and up. When it comes to AN-4 and lower Steel Braided..... NO... JUST SAY NO.. . IMHO with steel braided use tape that does not stretch for 6an and up. Masking/Painting tape works great. Again for 4an and lower Steel Braided (see reply to this post) DON'T even try
Braided steel 6an and up- here is where SUPER GLUE is THE ONLY WAY TO GO. There is no Tape type to help; you with steel braided. This is when I (before this video popped up in my feed today.. 3 weeks later) came up with the super glue idea. PUddin is right NO ONE had posted that. Wish with my hours of searching/reading in advance to prep myself .... whish like hell had seen your video. Searches NEVER brought yours up. grrrrr.
With Steel Braided put tape on to mark end of the length of hose your making. When you make your "mark" for hose length- leave estimate room for the Glue and cut process. Don't cut yet. you've not glued yet. Then you want to glue next to it tape (or line) . Remove tape ASAP or it will stick down- it's just put there earlier to remind you were you need glue/ and mark length of your hose..... aka when your cutting not at an open end, but instead somewhere down the length of the hose. As you remove the"marker" tape ... use a tiny chunk of that scrap tape to make a mark to indicate you just glued ahead of it. Super important on steel braid because it is clear and disappears from view.
BTW- You will at times sacrifice some steel braided hose. like inch or two.. It will be waste..... cause when you glue it ONLY helps the process if you put it on TIGHT braided area. You have to sacrifice any loose/flared.. even tiniest of flared area of braid. Superglue will NOT help you get splayed out "steel braid s" to lay back down!!!! All you do is get bloody fingers trying that. With nylon braid different story as Puddin described in above video... .
Once glue is dry... then like Pudding did; put tape there and cut - suggest USE A FINE CUTTING INSTRUMENT: something with mm thin cut off wheel. With Dremmel you will use numerous wheels per cut. Cut beyond any minute amount of flare showing if your doing steel. Also cut to keep tape on both ends once cut is done. For cut guide you can draw line around on tape, or use a second layer of tape with edge of new layer used as your cutting guide etc. With the glue. with nylon braid... yeah.. you can remove the tape when done.. Steel.. dont suggest it. Just peel all but one layer off.
REMINDER..... above is 6an and up. ALL THE ABOVE for 4an AND LOWER when dealing with Stainless Braid- chunk it all in the garbage....Above will be a fail. Mayyyyyyybe if you got a shop with plethora of tools and vises and clamps.. otherwise. FORGET IT.... it aitn goinna happen with 4an and lower Steel Braided. You will never get the nut on; EVER!!! even with superglue,. Even with superglueing Braid... putting on tap and superglueing that too, it will not keep the end from splaying out. It will still splay just tiny amount enough anyway, to make it no way to get nut on.
You mighttt in very lower pressure applications get away with using 4an steel braided line by carefully cutting off just enough braid to install fittings on the Rubber part only. Ill report back if I spring leaks. Was too late to return my 4an steel braided line so Im praying it works......... got hours and hours and hours in this and NOTHING works to get nut on 4an steel braided without hose making equipment... and if you got that you would not be using AN fittings anyway.
sure did forget