Man! 2 videos in just a few days! This addition will enhance the trailer's maneuverability. It'll be easy to jackknife the trailer though. You'll have to watch that so you don't break important bits like your pto shaft. I'm really enjoying this whole series. There's just so much you can do with this rig, it's just astounding. Plow snow? Yup! Drag some broken stuff out of the woods? Yes, sir! Bring a load of firewood out of the thicket? Oh, yeah! Really impressive!
Thanks for the heads up about free cad. I’m going to try it, I’m currently using Inkscape and I like how you can see measurements in it. I built my cnc plasma also. Can’t wait to see this build when it’s done. I’m just finishing up a new log splitter as we speak. My son and I have been using the one I built over 40 years ago.
Little additions and it will become his travel trailer with tiny house on top of it. Just use loader to lift it off when not in that configuration. Could be pretty cool use addition if you want to travel to forest and camp in style.
Great job👍👍👍there is one tip if you don't mind) it will be better if the axis of the D-pad and the hinge under it match. Thus, you will avoid biting the D-pad at high angles of rotation of the trailer.
The time the plasma table saves you over the old way fabricating brackets is top shelf stuff. I can't believe you still haven't got your linisher set up yet? Great work Donny & Thanks for sharing Mate. Billy J.... Queensland, Australia.
Maybe you've got ideas for this in the future but the pivot pin is oriented in such a way that it will require the removal of the PTO spindle to remove the pin. If you inverted the pin you would be able to remove it separately for repairs or service.
@@spangenbob That pin with a keeper tab on one end and nut on the other will never fall out. Never mind that there are several examples of popular OEM companies installing pins from the bottom. Usually because there’s something like a driveshaft or something else above the pin location.
Pretty common for the articulation point on big loaders and 4d tractors for the pin to be in from the bottom The driveshaft has to come out for Remo Al anyway but no ones lifting a 20kg pin into the artic frame and positioning it in the hole They make it so you jack it in from the bottom and then a retainer keps it in More offernt than not the pin doesn't have any keeper welded to the top or bottom its just a straight pin with holes drilled and tapped at both ends, makes it alot easier to machine So you can choose to bolt the top or bottom keeper on first but of course everyone does bottom first
I had always wanted to build an ATV logging trailer and several years ago watching your series on rebuilding your logging trailer, I was inspired to build my own with my own twist. I built the thing so heavy duty that I have trouble pulling it around. Out of the four quads that I have, only one, my 660 Grizzly will handle the load, meaning the weight of the tongue of the trailer when there isn't a load on it. It collapses the rear suspension so much that the tires rub on the fenders of my other quads. When there's a load on the trailer, it balances the tongue weight a little better. Even my friend's side by side had problems and it bent the trailer hitch for the 2-inch ball. The trailer you are building now looks a lot heavier than mine right now and I'm sure your UTV will pull it just fine. So, now I've decided to build my own UTV! I'm going to have to find a donor vehicle for the build... Thanks for another great idea!
To all of the commenters that think this guy is designing or building this unique creature incorrectly, I suggest you spend some time in his video catalog. He is in fact, no dummy.
Another well thought out design and of course over built !! Which is great to see. I like these longer video's being around 30 minutes as well. They are pretty goooood. Once again Donn Cheers from Sydney Australia MATE 🇭🇲👍🦘🐨👍🇭🇲🇪🇪🇪🇪
Nicely done like all I have seen you build on RUclips. Only design flaw I see is the pivot point for the tow bar should be directly inline with the pivot center of your pto u joint. Otherwise as the tow bar swings the length of the pto shaft will change drastically. Very cool build so far
Actually the pivot point should be in the centre of the driveshaft. Then the driveshaft cuts the corner and allows a sharper turning radius without such a sharp joint bend. Look at any articulated loader etc and that’s how they are built.
While it may still function as is you should still consider trying to align the tongue pivot and prop shaft U-joint. It’s always amazing to see your method of engineering.
You can put the cylinder where the drive shaft is, behind the angled metal, and then use a pushrod setup (like in an F1 racing car suspension), using the triangle plate to divert the load around the angled structure, to the draw bar. It's a strong setup that is also beneficial in the sense that it keeps the cylinder hidden, you can basically put it under the structure, even at an angle (downwards) to keep water from messing the seal. For a pushrod, you can use any piece of shafting that's meant to take a load, but you can also use a tube with thicker walls if you have one gathering dust. Love the use of old stuff , i have a few cyilinders myself that i'm slowly going thorough, including a hateful one that fell on my foot when i was a kid. I'm saving that one for my brother's manure spreader. :))
Hi Donn, Great work as always, people like you are the future. So refreshing to see what you're capable of, two thumbs up. Thanks for the video, take care.
Merci mon ami pour le partage de cette vidéo intéressant, merci pour l'explication, très Bon travail, Bon courage et bonne chance 👍👍👍👍👍 salutations à vous 🙏🙋🙋🏆
That CNC plasma cutting is Super Tidy, I wish they were a thing when I used to do fabrication at the start of the CNC era, my Esab CNC routers could handle thin sheet but it was so slow and messy.
Uma montagem complexa , conjugada com uma edição de video bem feita é igual a um video agradável de se ver. Parabéns pela edição e pela criação, ambos muito bons !!
Great work Donn ,,it will make a mess if oil in the ram but you could test with air from a blow gun use low air pressure too test .. that way you could see if it will pull back on the ram ,, not sure if you will need a ram on both sides ?? time will tell maybe I will find out in the next video .. keep up the great videos ..
Looking great , you never disappoint on the creative side and that gives us ideas 💡 😀 and theorys for our projects thanks and keep up the awesome work 👌 👏!!!!!!
I wonder why when using the hole saw you do not wind the ring down to push the cutter drive pins into the wholes in the cutter. Very easy to get off again as is not tight up against the threads. Great job. I have been watching many of your projects. Keep making the super informative videos. Thanks.
15:16 You can also cut notches perpendicular to the rotation axis of the bushing (in this image) and then bend a piece of flat bar U shaped, and weld it over. This variant gives extra strength to the whole affair. Source: My brother bought an articulated PTO-ed trailer used inline behind a tractor with a seeder (you use it to put IBCs and other stuff on it if you fertilize and stuff like that), which had that way of holding the bushing, and in an accident, the pin bushing broke weld towards the tow bar, but the strapping held it all together despite the nearly 90 degrees worth of lateral load (it's meant to ride offset to the tractor). When i fixed it, i basically pushed the tow bar against a wall and welded it all back together with a little extra plate under the bushing. It's a really strong design.
From experience, using two rams is way better, one on each side connected in series if memory serves me correctly. Especially if you need to hydraulically lock the trailer in an offset position while towing. If you use shuttle valves for steering adjustment, get the connectors with leds to help prevent back emf.
Bravo ottimo lavoro preciso e professionale, lavori bene e curi i piccoli particolari, e sono proprio questi che fanno la differenza, al prossimo video un saluto Gek
I really love your channel and your work is brilliant. I’m kind of confused about the pivot on the tow bar not aligning with the pivot of the U Joint. Will this not cause unnecessary telescoping of the driveshaft and an added torque stress at the joint? I’m reluctant to ask as you seem to really know your stuff but I’m just wondering about this point.
[23:46]: Before you welded up the tow bar mount assembly, I was surprised that you didn't check the pin, namely to ensure that it hadn't bound up and could still be easily removed; but you know what you're doing far better than me.
if you every want to cut plate that is thicker then the piercing capability of the 45 you can drill an 1/8-3/16" hole at the pierce and run it like an edge start. i do it with 3/4" plate on my Hypertherm 85 all the time.
For your hydraulic cylinder on towbar double the thickness of your brackets on each end then weld a lapweld barstock on the top and bottom double bracelet in a couple of places to give you a few options for your cylinder
Shouldn’t the pivot pin be directly under the cross of the U-joint? This would eliminate the shaft changing length as it pivots and allow you to remove the pin without disassembling the carrier bearings.
From what it looks like to me, he is going to use a PTO shaft that has plenty of travel built into it already. Thus eliminating the need for the pivot point on the same axis of the trive axle.
Always great content. I'm curious why @12:25 you didn't keep going and drill the pilot hole for the other side of the square tube. It would have avoided needing to mark out the other side - saving a bit of time and guaranteeing the holes were aligned.. Does the mag mount for the drill not have the range to get the pilot drill bit low enough?
Might want to add mechanical lock possibility on the pivot arm, so in case hose ruptures you can still drive it as normal trailer. Also maybe take out the arm now fill it with gravel and put it turning for day or so to remove any rust inside and then paint it. Would not want that rusting away over time. Specially after all that work.
I think I kind of understand what you are trying to do with that cylinder. Disregard this comment if I'm wrong, but you're trying to make it so that when you turn, the movable trailer hitch follows you so you don't bend the driveline? If that is so, I would recommend using another pivot point right before your hitch pin and then make the hitch mount more stationary on your utv. Then you can run what I would refer to as a "Z" link underneath so that the trailer will follow better without kinking the driveshaft so to speak. What I mean by this is taking another solid bar and running it to a pivot point on the left on either the front or the back and then to the opposite side on the opposing pivot point. This would also help making your turns more of the same radius and take stress off of the whole system. I think this might be a simpler solution than trying to work out the cylinders, but I could be wrong. If I'm wrong in my assumption, sorry for making you read a wall of text. By no means am I trying to tell you what to do, just a friendly bit of advice from one internet stranger to another. I have been thoroughly enjoying this build series.
The drive shaft is likely going to be a standard PTO shaft. Which expands and closes. Think a bar inside a pipe. Which is why its only going to bend one direction I think. Yet I am not sure.
Yeah, I get that, but it's still pretty easy to stress that front U joint. I have that problem on my baler, and I have been thinking about redoing the hitch.
For your steering I would make a linkage like you see on an excavator bucket. Much better range of motion, same power across the range, and keeps the cylinder out of harms way.
As soon as I thought, a hydraulic cylinder would make a great addition, you put it out... :-D Will make it like the swedish Bändvägn, nice! What about a steering rack added over the tow bar? Would the power steering pump handle a second one? ;-) Thx for showing, great build!
This has been a really cool project. Hell all of your projects are pretty dang cool. A lot of hard work seems to go into everything you build, awesome job man!
I have 2 concerns. Shouldn't the u-joint and pin below it line up so that they rotate at the same point? Hopefully you won't have to replace the pin, I guess the driveshaft could be removed. Otherwise, Awesome fabricating skills.
Looks like that cylinder may interfere with your future pto yoke. And the tow bar pin should be removable with out disassembling the pto bearing assembly. Just my 2 cents
How does that toe bar allow for up down movement? IE driving over a rise or hill then through a gully or valley? Very long attachment to only allow side to side but not up down movement between vehicle and trailer There are many good styles of hitches that work look at 4wd trailers Still Donn usually perplexes me until the reveal and i go “thats how it works”!
I bet you'll end up breaking this, and just welding it up solid in the future. But that's ok, I don't think the pivot will even be necessary in the end.
I think for your driveshaft you might have more luck using car driveshaft and Constant Velocity joint forward of the support. It will eliminate bind in universals, the need to phasing for ballance for the lenght of the driveshaft and give you no articulation limitations.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
More fabrication videos on ruclips.net/user/DonnDIYvideos
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What kind of pencil is that ?
Я так понял гидроцилиндр нужен чтоб при езде задом можно было рулить.
PPppppp
Would be interesting for u to do a restore or rebuild of the lathe since I first watched u kept thinking 🤔 he's gonna do it one of these days lol
Man! 2 videos in just a few days! This addition will enhance the trailer's maneuverability. It'll be easy to jackknife the trailer though. You'll have to watch that so you don't break important bits like your pto shaft. I'm really enjoying this whole series. There's just so much you can do with this rig, it's just astounding. Plow snow? Yup! Drag some broken stuff out of the woods? Yes, sir! Bring a load of firewood out of the thicket? Oh, yeah!
Really impressive!
Hard, arduous work but the effect is excellent. Best wishes 🥰😘👍
Looking PRETTY- GOOD Donn. It's going to be awesome when you're through building it. Fantastic fabrication skill !! Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.
Обажаю твои видео, и восхищаюсь мастерством 👍👍👍🤝
Thanks for the heads up about free cad. I’m going to try it, I’m currently using Inkscape and I like how you can see measurements in it. I built my cnc plasma also. Can’t wait to see this build when it’s done. I’m just finishing up a new log splitter as we speak. My son and I have been using the one I built over 40 years ago.
It feels like that trailer can pull an entire house!! so robust fabrications, i love it! congrats!
Little additions and it will become his travel trailer with tiny house on top of it. Just use loader to lift it off when not in that configuration. Could be pretty cool use addition if you want to travel to forest and camp in style.
Great job👍👍👍there is one tip if you don't mind) it will be better if the axis of the D-pad and the hinge under it match. Thus, you will avoid biting the D-pad at high angles of rotation of the trailer.
Dude, you're an absolute _surgeon_ with that grinder!
The time the plasma table saves you over the old way fabricating brackets is top shelf stuff. I can't believe you still haven't got your linisher set up yet? Great work Donny & Thanks for sharing Mate. Billy J.... Queensland, Australia.
Maybe you've got ideas for this in the future but the pivot pin is oriented in such a way that it will require the removal of the PTO spindle to remove the pin. If you inverted the pin you would be able to remove it separately for repairs or service.
Was just about to make the same comment.
Pretty sure that pin would last roughly 7 lifetimes if greased occasionally.
@@spangenbob
That pin with a keeper tab on one end and nut on the other will never fall out. Never mind that there are several examples of popular OEM companies installing pins from the bottom. Usually because there’s something like a driveshaft or something else above the pin location.
Pretty common for the articulation point on big loaders and 4d tractors for the pin to be in from the bottom
The driveshaft has to come out for Remo Al anyway but no ones lifting a 20kg pin into the artic frame and positioning it in the hole
They make it so you jack it in from the bottom and then a retainer keps it in
More offernt than not the pin doesn't have any keeper welded to the top or bottom its just a straight pin with holes drilled and tapped at both ends, makes it alot easier to machine
So you can choose to bolt the top or bottom keeper on first but of course everyone does bottom first
Not only that, the pivot point of the universal joint should be on the center line of the pin.
I had always wanted to build an ATV logging trailer and several years ago watching your series on rebuilding your logging trailer, I was inspired to build my own with my own twist. I built the thing so heavy duty that I have trouble pulling it around. Out of the four quads that I have, only one, my 660 Grizzly will handle the load, meaning the weight of the tongue of the trailer when there isn't a load on it. It collapses the rear suspension so much that the tires rub on the fenders of my other quads. When there's a load on the trailer, it balances the tongue weight a little better. Even my friend's side by side had problems and it bent the trailer hitch for the 2-inch ball. The trailer you are building now looks a lot heavier than mine right now and I'm sure your UTV will pull it just fine. So, now I've decided to build my own UTV! I'm going to have to find a donor vehicle for the build... Thanks for another great idea!
19:20 The tow bar pivot point needs to be centered with the universal pivot point on the PTO drive.
Nice build so far. Cheers 🇨🇦
To all of the commenters that think this guy is designing or building this unique creature incorrectly, I suggest you spend some time in his video catalog. He is in fact, no dummy.
Another well thought out design and of course over built !! Which is great to see.
I like these longer video's being around 30 minutes as well.
They are pretty goooood.
Once again Donn
Cheers from Sydney Australia MATE 🇭🇲👍🦘🐨👍🇭🇲🇪🇪🇪🇪
Very cool Don ! Hope all is well with you and your family. Stay safe and have a wonderful weekend..
as long as you never go up or down any hills this is great
Nicely done like all I have seen you build on RUclips. Only design flaw I see is the pivot point for the tow bar should be directly inline with the pivot center of your pto u joint. Otherwise as the tow bar swings the length of the pto shaft will change drastically. Very cool build so far
The tongue pivot should be in line with the center of the u-joint.
Doesn't matter, it is not a homokinetic joint
Tractor pto shafts can telescope something like 30 cm. It is actually good for them to move a bit in use so they dont get stuck over time.
Actually the pivot point should be in the centre of the driveshaft. Then the driveshaft cuts the corner and allows a sharper turning radius without such a sharp joint bend. Look at any articulated loader etc and that’s how they are built.
While it may still function as is you should still consider trying to align the tongue pivot and prop shaft U-joint.
It’s always amazing to see your method of engineering.
Mirko io i88
You can put the cylinder where the drive shaft is, behind the angled metal, and then use a pushrod setup (like in an F1 racing car suspension), using the triangle plate to divert the load around the angled structure, to the draw bar.
It's a strong setup that is also beneficial in the sense that it keeps the cylinder hidden, you can basically put it under the structure, even at an angle (downwards) to keep water from messing the seal. For a pushrod, you can use any piece of shafting that's meant to take a load, but you can also use a tube with thicker walls if you have one gathering dust.
Love the use of old stuff , i have a few cyilinders myself that i'm slowly going thorough, including a hateful one that fell on my foot when i was a kid. I'm saving that one for my brother's manure spreader. :))
Hi Donn,
Great work as always, people like you are the future.
So refreshing to see what you're capable of, two thumbs up.
Thanks for the video, take care.
Merci mon ami pour le partage de cette vidéo intéressant, merci pour l'explication, très Bon travail, Bon courage et bonne chance 👍👍👍👍👍 salutations à vous 🙏🙋🙋🏆
One doesn’t experience self transcendence, the illusion of self only dissipates..🎈
You never disappoint. Thanks! Excellent!!!
That CNC plasma cutting is Super Tidy, I wish they were a thing when I used to do fabrication at the start of the CNC era, my Esab CNC routers could handle thin sheet but it was so slow and messy.
Great tip for an easy to make tool for hone/sanding holes!!
Uma montagem complexa , conjugada com uma edição de video bem feita é igual a um video agradável de se ver. Parabéns pela edição e pela criação, ambos muito bons !!
Great work Donn ,,it will make a mess if oil in the ram but you could test with air from a blow gun use low air pressure too test .. that way you could see if it will pull back on the ram ,, not sure if you will need a ram on both sides ?? time will tell maybe I will find out in the next video .. keep up the great videos ..
Brilliant video as usual.. Keep up the great work!
This gonna be good. Super stoked
Looking great , you never disappoint on the creative side and that gives us ideas 💡 😀 and theorys for our projects thanks and keep up the awesome work 👌 👏!!!!!!
Awesome as always my dude. Thanks for sharing 👍. The pivot is gonna be so nice to have in the woods...
Awesome! Can't wait see this thing in operation
I just love to watch you work.
I wonder why when using the hole saw you do not wind the ring down to push the cutter drive pins into the wholes in the cutter. Very easy to get off again as is not tight up against the threads.
Great job. I have been watching many of your projects. Keep making the super informative videos. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing 👌👍
Big like 👍👍👍♥️
To make great zirk fitting guards. Take a large nut drill out the threads than welded it around your grease fitting hole. 🤔
I use left over pipe trimmings from my scrap piles.. its a lot cheaper than a nut
Much good ideas there, good work so long...💪💪💪👍👍
Awesome work. I've work on articulating tractors and I do know that the pivot pin is in line with the yolk.
Plenty of work outstanding, thank you Donn :)
Your videos are so relaxing to watch
As always you deliver, really enjoy your videos
Great content 👍😎
Я с тебя поражаюсь, от куда столько замечательных идей 💥💥💥👍🏻
15:16 You can also cut notches perpendicular to the rotation axis of the bushing (in this image) and then bend a piece of flat bar U shaped, and weld it over. This variant gives extra strength to the whole affair.
Source: My brother bought an articulated PTO-ed trailer used inline behind a tractor with a seeder (you use it to put IBCs and other stuff on it if you fertilize and stuff like that), which had that way of holding the bushing, and in an accident, the pin bushing broke weld towards the tow bar, but the strapping held it all together despite the nearly 90 degrees worth of lateral load (it's meant to ride offset to the tractor).
When i fixed it, i basically pushed the tow bar against a wall and welded it all back together with a little extra plate under the bushing. It's a really strong design.
余計なBGMなくて、作業音フェチにはたまらない。耳が癒やされるわ。
Excelente trabajo! Saludos desde Mendoza Argentina
Amazing constructing again 👍👍👍
I’m going to have to try that cad program out. Looks intuitive enough.
What that cad designer are?
From experience, using two rams is way better, one on each side connected in series if memory serves me correctly. Especially if you need to hydraulically lock the trailer in an offset position while towing. If you use shuttle valves for steering adjustment, get the connectors with leds to help prevent back emf.
Bravo ottimo lavoro preciso e professionale, lavori bene e curi i piccoli particolari, e sono proprio questi che fanno la differenza, al prossimo video un saluto Gek
I really love your channel and your work is brilliant.
I’m kind of confused about the pivot on the tow bar not aligning with the pivot of the U Joint.
Will this not cause unnecessary telescoping of the driveshaft and an added torque stress at the joint?
I’m reluctant to ask as you seem to really know your stuff but I’m just wondering about this point.
They are made to telescope mate, won’t matter
nice video!!! The steering angle on my trailer is 45 degrees. This makes the trailer extremely manoeuvrable despite its size.
Meus parabéns!!! Gosto muito de assistir os seus vídeos!
Nice build so far, I would have put an internal groove in the bush for the grease nipple but very nice anyway
[23:46]: Before you welded up the tow bar mount assembly, I was surprised that you didn't check the pin, namely to
ensure that it hadn't bound up and could still be easily removed; but you know what you're doing far better than me.
if you every want to cut plate that is thicker then the piercing capability of the 45 you can drill an 1/8-3/16" hole at the pierce and run it like an edge start. i do it with 3/4" plate on my Hypertherm 85 all the time.
Shouldn't the tounge pivot be in line with the u joint pivot?
With a collapsing PTO shaft it doesn't need to be lined up with the pivot.
Not necessarily
hi you you are a good mechanic boy 😊 good job 💪👏👍👌🇳🇴
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Great job bro 👍😍👌😍👍👌
For your hydraulic cylinder on towbar double the thickness of your brackets on each end then weld a lapweld barstock on the top and bottom double bracelet in a couple of places to give you a few options for your cylinder
Shouldn’t the pivot pin be directly under the cross of the U-joint? This would eliminate the shaft changing length as it pivots and allow you to remove the pin without disassembling the carrier bearings.
Hey Donn, How do you plan on removing that tongue pin when the pto shaft is in it's way?
PTO removal is for about 2 minutes.
Está ficando muito bom topdasgalaxias
Super Abraço
Doesn’t the tongue pivot point need to be along the same axis as the drive axel pivot point?
From what it looks like to me, he is going to use a PTO shaft that has plenty of travel built into it already. Thus eliminating the need for the pivot point on the same axis of the trive axle.
@@1983bronc The length of the PTO shaft isn't the problem. It's the angle of the U joint when he is negotiating corners.
@@anan0moose with the pto connections being further away from the pivot points the angles of the universal joints should be less.
Love it, nice work!!!
“PRETTY GOOOOD”
Awesome as always
Always great content. I'm curious why @12:25 you didn't keep going and drill the pilot hole for the other side of the square tube. It would have avoided needing to mark out the other side - saving a bit of time and guaranteeing the holes were aligned.. Does the mag mount for the drill not have the range to get the pilot drill bit low enough?
Might want to add mechanical lock possibility on the pivot arm, so in case hose ruptures you can still drive it as normal trailer. Also maybe take out the arm now fill it with gravel and put it turning for day or so to remove any rust inside and then paint it. Would not want that rusting away over time. Specially after all that work.
You should make smal change. the pivot point of the universal joint should be on the center line of the pin
Nice work Donn super skills awesome video keep it coming
Great as always
I think I kind of understand what you are trying to do with that cylinder. Disregard this comment if I'm wrong, but you're trying to make it so that when you turn, the movable trailer hitch follows you so you don't bend the driveline? If that is so, I would recommend using another pivot point right before your hitch pin and then make the hitch mount more stationary on your utv. Then you can run what I would refer to as a "Z" link underneath so that the trailer will follow better without kinking the driveshaft so to speak. What I mean by this is taking another solid bar and running it to a pivot point on the left on either the front or the back and then to the opposite side on the opposing pivot point. This would also help making your turns more of the same radius and take stress off of the whole system. I think this might be a simpler solution than trying to work out the cylinders, but I could be wrong. If I'm wrong in my assumption, sorry for making you read a wall of text. By no means am I trying to tell you what to do, just a friendly bit of advice from one internet stranger to another. I have been thoroughly enjoying this build series.
The drive shaft is likely going to be a standard PTO shaft. Which expands and closes. Think a bar inside a pipe. Which is why its only going to bend one direction I think. Yet I am not sure.
Yeah, I get that, but it's still pretty easy to stress that front U joint. I have that problem on my baler, and I have been thinking about redoing the hitch.
For your steering I would make a linkage like you see on an excavator bucket. Much better range of motion, same power across the range, and keeps the cylinder out of harms way.
Great measurements 👍
Great work n Vid .
Thanks 👍🏻
The pivot for your tow bar needs to be centered on the center of the u-joint in the drive shaft or it will cause binding of the drive shaft!
Thank you! Great Fab Work! : - )
very cool project
Looking good
Super 💪👍👍
As soon as I thought, a hydraulic cylinder would make a great addition, you put it out...
:-D
Will make it like the swedish Bändvägn, nice!
What about a steering rack added over the tow bar? Would the power steering pump handle a second one?
;-)
Thx for showing, great build!
Great video
This has been a really cool project. Hell all of your projects are pretty dang cool. A lot of hard work seems to go into everything you build, awesome job man!
I would have thought that the pivot point for the trailer arm and the center of the universal joint should be in vertical alignment.
Well done!
Great design. I don't think anyone in these comments could do better 🤣😆😂😅🤣
I have 2 concerns. Shouldn't the u-joint and pin below it line up so that they rotate at the same point? Hopefully you won't have to replace the pin, I guess the driveshaft could be removed.
Otherwise, Awesome fabricating skills.
Good job
Looks like that cylinder may interfere with your future pto yoke. And the tow bar pin should be removable with out disassembling the pto bearing assembly. Just my 2 cents
Complimenti 👍👍👍👍👍👍🤙🤙
How does that toe bar allow for up down movement? IE driving over a rise or hill then through a gully or valley?
Very long attachment to only allow side to side but not up down movement between vehicle and trailer
There are many good styles of hitches that work look at 4wd trailers
Still Donn usually perplexes me until the reveal and i go “thats how it works”!
like a glove
This is so awesome
МОЩНО !👍👍👍👍👍👍
I bet you'll end up breaking this, and just welding it up solid in the future. But that's ok, I don't think the pivot will even be necessary in the end.
Why are you making it chaindrive on the axles? You know that becomes the weakest point of the whole trailer. But can’t wait to see it finished.
I think for your driveshaft you might have more luck using car driveshaft and Constant Velocity joint forward of the support. It will eliminate bind in universals, the need to phasing for ballance for the lenght of the driveshaft and give you no articulation limitations.