This was a fun one! Here's a list of tools I used for this DIY re/re installation, along with what I used them for in (brackets), and *affiliate links to purchase them for yourself! Show some love if you appreciate creators making lists like this for their viewers! 🔥 ---- TOOLS ---- ► 1/2" Ratchet Wrench USA: amzn.to/3RHFnXx CAN: amzn.to/3QtwwI2 ► 1/2" Breaker Bar USA: amzn.to/3RKJfqK CAN: amzn.to/3RnIWT2 ► Inner Tie Rod Tool (to break Inner Tie Rod free, literally the key tool for this install) USA: amzn.to/3BlzF8v CAN: amzn.to/3RKNHFY ► Any Size Torque Wrench capable of ~60lb-ft (for nut on Outer Tie Rod end (59lb-ft)) USA: amzn.to/3Bm2HVy CAN: amzn.to/3KXuM92 ► Rubber Mallet (pref) or Hammer (to get Outer Tie Rod end loose) USA: amzn.to/3TTVWBM CAN: amzn.to/3TQYVun ► Needle Nose Pliers (to undo cauter pin in crown nut) USA: amzn.to/3KT4ODk CAN: amzn.to/3cRMKwS ► Cutter Pliers (to remove clamps securing Inner Tie Rod boot in place) USA: amzn.to/3KT4ODk CAN: amzn.to/3cRMKwS ---- SOCKETS ---- ► 1/2" Extension USA: amzn.to/3D3LbXg CAN: amzn.to/3Bms6P2 ► 1/2" to 3/8" Down Step Socket USA: amzn.to/3D3LbXg CAN: amzn.to/3Bms6P2 ► 3/8" Extension USA: amzn.to/3AZ8per CAN: amzn.to/3x4rHhy ► 18mm Deep Socket (for Nut on Outer Tie Rod end) USA: amzn.to/3AZJlE6 CAN: amzn.to/3KTd5Ho ► 21mm Deep Impact Socket (for lug nuts on Wheels // Wheel dependent) USA: amzn.to/3x09FNm CAN: amzn.to/3ekdXIS ► 22mm Open-Ended Wrench (for jam nut on Inner Tie Rod) USA: amzn.to/3Qo1nWv CAN: amzn.to/3L1sllF ---- ETC ---- ► Zip Ties (to secure the Inner Tie Rod boot in place) USA: amzn.to/3BkyeqL CAN: amzn.to/3qhaSvZ ► Copper Anti-Sieze (on end of Inner Tie Rod where Outer Tie Rod threads onto) USA: amzn.to/3KU8PYg CAN: amzn.to/3x2wvnq ► WD-40 (to loosen crud around bolts to make them easier to break loose) USA: amzn.to/3RHteSp CAN: amzn.to/3x2wCPS *Affiliate links provide affiliates like me with a small percentage kickback from all purchases made using the special links; and with no extra cost to the buyer! It's a subtle way of supporting your favourite creators, especially if you plan to purchase the product(s) they're using anyway!
I heard that the front lower control arms is what makes a huge difference than the inner & outer tie rods when it comes to steering & stability, that's if you get the upgraded ones than the factory, like the gt500 front lca or the ford performance front lca which are 10x better than factory lca. My 3v is well over 140k+ miles & it's still on oem suspension so i know it's definitely time to change them along with the inner & outer tie rod cuz it's performing really bad after a year of having the car lowered with lowering springs & no upgraded suspension lol
Yikes! Yea you should definitely get to work on that haha. But honestly didn't know the lcas made that big a difference, I knew for certain my inner outers were shot though which is why I changed em. I'll make sure to change my lcas come next spring though so keep an eye out for that video then too! Thanks for the info and comment brother 👊
I'm bout to handle this on the weekend. Hopefully it fixes the vibration and loosness in the wheel. You from the 6 btw? Noticed the plate and jays sweats haha. Shouts from MTL.
Yessir I am 🙌 Best of luck with the install! That inner tie rod WILL be very hard to remove so be prepared, and TORQUE the new ones once installed! Hoping you have a swift and safe install brother 👊
Im so glad you did this! I gotta do mine and I had no idea where to start ! Also you linking all the tools needed for this is so cool ! Also the stang is looking mint as ALWAYSS !
I've done the outer tie rods on my Mustang when I installed the Shelby GT500 lower control arms, but not the inner ones. I have done both when I owned a '96 Explorer that seemed to have the exact same set up, but I don't remember the need for special tool, but I have slept since then. Maybe that was one of the changes with the S-197's rack and pinion set up. Good infomational video, as usual.
Oh the tool isn't necessary by any means, BUT it does make the job a whole lot easier and more doable on a set of jack and stands. When I attempted the install the first time I was using monkey/plumber adjustable wrenches and tried to crack the inner tie rod loose for nearly an hour and got nowhere! Whereas this tool combined with a breaker bar made quick work of it. I'd highly recommend the $25 extra to pick it up if they plan to pull the inners out. Thanks for the feedback as always 👊
Yea I was gunna use an adjustable wrench on it but I've read that hand tightening it is all you need so I went with it. Let's hope it doesn't come back to bite in the future lol.
Decided to be safe and went back in and tightened it this morning. It was pretty loose so thanks for commenting and motivating me to double check and tighten it down. Appreciate you lookin out 👌
@@boat_banging Yes OEM spec was 23 spins iirc, but however many spins it takes to take your old ones off is how many spins you should use to put the new ones on to preserve as much of your car's previous alignment as possible. You can always do an extra google search to make sure as well!
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
This was a fun one! Here's a list of tools I used for this DIY re/re installation, along with what I used them for in (brackets), and *affiliate links to purchase them for yourself! Show some love if you appreciate creators making lists like this for their viewers! 🔥
---- TOOLS ----
► 1/2" Ratchet Wrench
USA: amzn.to/3RHFnXx
CAN: amzn.to/3QtwwI2
► 1/2" Breaker Bar
USA: amzn.to/3RKJfqK
CAN: amzn.to/3RnIWT2
► Inner Tie Rod Tool (to break Inner Tie Rod free, literally the key tool for this install)
USA: amzn.to/3BlzF8v
CAN: amzn.to/3RKNHFY
► Any Size Torque Wrench capable of ~60lb-ft (for nut on Outer Tie Rod end (59lb-ft))
USA: amzn.to/3Bm2HVy
CAN: amzn.to/3KXuM92
► Rubber Mallet (pref) or Hammer (to get Outer Tie Rod end loose)
USA: amzn.to/3TTVWBM
CAN: amzn.to/3TQYVun
► Needle Nose Pliers (to undo cauter pin in crown nut)
USA: amzn.to/3KT4ODk
CAN: amzn.to/3cRMKwS
► Cutter Pliers (to remove clamps securing Inner Tie Rod boot in place)
USA: amzn.to/3KT4ODk
CAN: amzn.to/3cRMKwS
---- SOCKETS ----
► 1/2" Extension
USA: amzn.to/3D3LbXg
CAN: amzn.to/3Bms6P2
► 1/2" to 3/8" Down Step Socket
USA: amzn.to/3D3LbXg
CAN: amzn.to/3Bms6P2
► 3/8" Extension
USA: amzn.to/3AZ8per
CAN: amzn.to/3x4rHhy
► 18mm Deep Socket (for Nut on Outer Tie Rod end)
USA: amzn.to/3AZJlE6
CAN: amzn.to/3KTd5Ho
► 21mm Deep Impact Socket (for lug nuts on Wheels // Wheel dependent)
USA: amzn.to/3x09FNm
CAN: amzn.to/3ekdXIS
► 22mm Open-Ended Wrench (for jam nut on Inner Tie Rod)
USA: amzn.to/3Qo1nWv
CAN: amzn.to/3L1sllF
---- ETC ----
► Zip Ties (to secure the Inner Tie Rod boot in place)
USA: amzn.to/3BkyeqL
CAN: amzn.to/3qhaSvZ
► Copper Anti-Sieze (on end of Inner Tie Rod where Outer Tie Rod threads onto)
USA: amzn.to/3KU8PYg
CAN: amzn.to/3x2wvnq
► WD-40 (to loosen crud around bolts to make them easier to break loose)
USA: amzn.to/3RHteSp
CAN: amzn.to/3x2wCPS
*Affiliate links provide affiliates like me with a small percentage kickback from all purchases made using the special links; and with no extra cost to the buyer! It's a subtle way of supporting your favourite creators, especially if you plan to purchase the product(s) they're using anyway!
I appreciate the information its really helpful for guys like me who are still learning about mechanics
I heard that the front lower control arms is what makes a huge difference than the inner & outer tie rods when it comes to steering & stability, that's if you get the upgraded ones than the factory, like the gt500 front lca or the ford performance front lca which are 10x better than factory lca. My 3v is well over 140k+ miles & it's still on oem suspension so i know it's definitely time to change them along with the inner & outer tie rod cuz it's performing really bad after a year of having the car lowered with lowering springs & no upgraded suspension lol
Yikes! Yea you should definitely get to work on that haha. But honestly didn't know the lcas made that big a difference, I knew for certain my inner outers were shot though which is why I changed em. I'll make sure to change my lcas come next spring though so keep an eye out for that video then too! Thanks for the info and comment brother 👊
I'm bout to handle this on the weekend. Hopefully it fixes the vibration and loosness in the wheel.
You from the 6 btw? Noticed the plate and jays sweats haha. Shouts from MTL.
Yessir I am 🙌
Best of luck with the install! That inner tie rod WILL be very hard to remove so be prepared, and TORQUE the new ones once installed! Hoping you have a swift and safe install brother 👊
Im so glad you did this! I gotta do mine and I had no idea where to start ! Also you linking all the tools needed for this is so cool ! Also the stang is looking mint as ALWAYSS !
Haha i'm glad this video will be able to help you out a bit then 👌 Thanks as always for the support brother 👊
I've done the outer tie rods on my Mustang when I installed the Shelby GT500 lower control arms, but not the inner ones. I have done both when I owned a '96 Explorer that seemed to have the exact same set up, but I don't remember the need for special tool, but I have slept since then. Maybe that was one of the changes with the S-197's rack and pinion set up. Good infomational video, as usual.
Oh the tool isn't necessary by any means, BUT it does make the job a whole lot easier and more doable on a set of jack and stands. When I attempted the install the first time I was using monkey/plumber adjustable wrenches and tried to crack the inner tie rod loose for nearly an hour and got nowhere! Whereas this tool combined with a breaker bar made quick work of it. I'd highly recommend the $25 extra to pick it up if they plan to pull the inners out. Thanks for the feedback as always 👊
Question, why did you decide to install gt500 lower control arms. Do they differ from the 05 mustang ones?
You should have used a wrench on that inner tie rod end to tighten it, not simply hand tighten it.
Yea I was gunna use an adjustable wrench on it but I've read that hand tightening it is all you need so I went with it. Let's hope it doesn't come back to bite in the future lol.
Decided to be safe and went back in and tightened it this morning. It was pretty loose so thanks for commenting and motivating me to double check and tighten it down. Appreciate you lookin out 👌
Question u said 23 spin same spot from other side too?
@@boat_banging Yes OEM spec was 23 spins iirc, but however many spins it takes to take your old ones off is how many spins you should use to put the new ones on to preserve as much of your car's previous alignment as possible. You can always do an extra google search to make sure as well!
Definitely get a wheel alignment ASAP as it will ruin your front tires quickly. I know from experience.
Yea I got one scheduled soon and won't be driving much until then 👌
Same for 2014 ?????
Did u not torque it down for the instal ?!?!
I went back and torqued it down after the fact yes, definitely a must-do! And yes, this solved my pulling to the right issue.
Hey! I'm looking at buying a veloster. How did yours hold up with Canadian winters?
Only had it through 2 winters but it was great. Enjoyed the car a lot while I had it, though keep in mind I had the Turbo model!