Mixing valve options in plumbing and radiant/heating applications
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- Опубликовано: 14 июн 2017
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Topics Covered:
Mixing Valves in plumbing applications
Mixing valves in heating applications
Balancing hot water in plumbing applications
Killing legionnaire bacteria in home water
Prevent scalding temperature in showers and sinks
Closed loop hydronic heating mixing valve
How do mixing valves work in heating systems
Union, sweat, threaded, and press connection mixing valves
Mixing valves with temperature gauges
How to change temperature range for mixing valve
Adjust mixing valve dial
Temperature range for mixing valves
Taco mixing valves
Honeywell mixing valves
Understand input and output ranges of mixing valve
What is the input/output range of my mixing valve
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Thank you so much for showing how to adjust the Taco valve with its own cap. Without that, I would have been fumbling around. 2 thumbs up! side note: on my 5000-3 valve, CW = colder, CCW=hotter.
You rock. Thanks for explaining!
Awesome, great Job!
Good looks 👍🏼
I am installing a One Zone closed radiant floor heat system with an electric tankless water heater. What type of mixing valve should I use at the point where the primary and secondary loops meet? Thank you.
Hi,
Thanks for the good info, one question: do these valves have non return valve, i.e. if I close the mixed output, will cold water mix with hot water?
this fellow is really good
I have a tacco 5000 mixing valve and am using for radiant heat. I am using 50/50 antifreeze and have asmall leak on the mixing valve thru the temp control knob. Have u seen this before.
Im planning on converting from radiators to radiant, i have a gas fired hot water system. Can i use one of these valves, i have seen some that are electric, and messure the temps and adjust acordingly. This would probably much easier.
For radiant heat, we're going to be running hot water back as the cold in... There is a good chance that the temperatures will be close to each other. Will the performance degrade, or will it fail if the cold water is above the input temp?
Can we use ppr pipe for hot water system
Can this boost hot water coming from a non pressurized solar water heater
Hi, I don't need and don't want a mixing valve since I don't have a tank but a water on demand unit. I hate my mixing valve that keeps on failing and delays the output of hot water, making me waste all kinds of water.
My question is, do you guys sell a connection with the same ergonomic of a mixing valve, but without the mixing valve so that I can just take my valve out and replace it with the connection without having to fiddle with soldering? Is there an adapter of some sort to bypass and take out the mixing valve? Thanks.
What if the return water for the cold side is above 80f?
On my honeywell mixing valve on aqua hot heating system, why is my hot water pressure so low, cold is fine.
Great explanation on their operation. I am installing a mixing valve in my commercial restroom. The walls are all up and tiled. I am not sure what style mixing valve to use that can be installed under my sink. Any advice would be helpful.
What u end up doing
Waiting on a response for years now
Is there a way to bypass this going to a soaking tub? Plumber has mined turned all the way up and Scald valve on Faucet of soaking tub all the way up but the water coming out of the faucet wont go over 90 degrees! What is crazy is every other faucet in the house including kids bathtub will get super hot! The mixing valve is going directly to the soaking tub and sits under my wifes vanity in the master bath.
What does the element do in a mixing valve
what is best practice on using mixing valve on boiler with hot water recirculation pump (that keeps hot water in loop to the fixture)? The cold water return would get hot water in it since most recirculation pumps are controlled just by timer.
Why would you use lead if there is a non lead version available? Is the leaded version cheaper?
Yea the leaded version is lower priced and lead is only for use in closed loop applications (non-potable water).
At 2:20 - mine was the opposite. Counter-clockwise for hotter hot water.
The video says the opposite of what the manual states.
Think of it as the hot water tap on a bathtub faucet. Close to decrease temperature, open to increase.
since a hot water heating system is a sealed system how can cold water be added to temper the water for a specific zone and not over ressure the system
Return water from the system is mixed in, not more domestic cold water. Return water from a radiant floor is generally 60-80 degrees
Thanks ..... that is what I understood I couldn't wrap my brain around using return water since in todays condensing boilers there is a loop circulating the return and supply water. My solution was to return the in floor water outside of the loop and to prevent the hot return water from entering the floor zones I protected the out of loop with a check valve. I haven't yet completed the install so it will be the week end b./4 I know if "success has found me" Thanks againKen
Ken Adams I guess I'm not grasping what you're saying... Check valve? The new mod/cons typically employ a primary secondary piping setup as you said, but whatever return water comes right from the floor's return manifold would get injected to the "cold" side of the mixer. Do you have a dual temp system? Like baseboard or forced air in combination with in-floor? If it's floor only there is no need for any sort of mixer- condensing boilers are built for low temp water. Even with a dual temp system, you'd just put each zone on its own pump with whatever one serves the floor being mixed before it injects back into the primary loop
I Guess that I was just overthinking it but yes it is a combined base board and radiant floor system.I have installed several base board systems for myself and family and friends but never a combined system. I was thinking that if I just brought the return water to the mixing valve I would not get any flow thru the system. I think I will leave it as I have it and if it works out I'll leave it as is. To better understand what I did............. picture the primary and return loop...... as a rectangle....off to one end I installed a T and off of that T I installed a check valve, then three more T's two are returns from the radiant floor the third is where I connected the cold side of the mixing valve. All of this in an effort to keep the hotter base board water from mixing with the radiant floor return. After reading you reply I realized that just by connecting the radiant floor return to the cold side of the mixing valve I would have an independent loop with added heat from the boiler only if the mixer was not satisfied. That's what happens when you overthink a problem. This was also a puzzle for me as I was asked to help get a system completed for a friend who had started the project and was taken seriously ill and could not complete it or tell me what was completed or planned...........thanks again Ken
Ken Adams I'm not 100% understanding this, but what I'm picturing is not hydraulically separated and the check valve may prevent backflow, but not creep from the supply side unless your S/R tees are within 4 inches of each other in the primary loop. This accomplishes hydraulic separation and keeps the primary loop from forcing water through the secondary loop, then the secondary loop would require its own pump to circulate when there is a call on that zone. Glad to see some diy guys out there yet! Good luck with the project