In this video I describe what works for me to obtain good, streak-free and evenly-developed film. If you prefer a written list: www.largeformatphotography.in...
Replying to a comment by Filibert that I inadvertently deleted: to keep track of the time while developing I use these Gralab timers that you can see in the video. They have glow-in-the-dark clock hands. I put a piece of cardboard in front of the clock so that it does not shine light on to the film, but so that I can peek at the clock to check the time.
Excellent directions and details of tray development of large format negatives. I have done tray development before but find the tips that this video very useful. I developing some sheet film this week again after years of absence from large format. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Thanks for your comment. I tried to condense as much information as possible in this video, it is great you can find some of it useful. Best of luck with your new sheets!
Thank you very much Marco! Despite having read a few times Ansel Adams' description of how to develop sheet film in trays I was quite confused about/intimidated by the procedure. Your tutorial is indeed very helpful :) and it is also very valuable as I was not able to find any other video about this topic on RUclips. Not this detailed at least. One question: wouldn't it be convenient to develop the sheets emulsion side down in order to reduce the risk of scratching them? Thanks and cheers from Italy!
@@MarcoFantin1 also, if you develop emulsion side down, you could get rib lines caused by ribs in the trays. The recessed part gets more developer, so they are darker.
Thanks for sharing this. Really useful. I have been using a SPP tank for my 4x5 sheet film but want to start developing in trays.your video is good guide for this. Do you mind sharing a link to the film drying clips? I have been loony for similar clips but can’t seem to find them.
Hey, thanks for your comment. Here are the clips, they are still looking like new www.google.com/amp/s/www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/123163-REG/Delta_58050_Stainless_Steel_Film_Clips.html/amp
Thanks for the tips! Just wondering if I only want to develop a single sheet at a time, can I just agitate it rather than shuffling the negative, i.e. similar to paper development in trays?
Yes.. i do it from time to time. Just make sure it does not float to the top. Having a second dummy sheet helps with consistency, but it is not necessary
@@MarcoFantin1 I wondered too. I only develop one sheet at a time because it's just too messy to handle many sheets. (I also got some negs didn't get enough developer.)
@@oasisneko1 yes you can do one sheet but I had more consistent results shuffling the negatives. Replying to your other comment, to reduce contrast I would definitely reduce agitation. Do the first 20 seconds continuous, and then once every 30 seconds. You should find the info in the developer box
For the fresh chemical tip, is it ok to re-use the stop + fix? Do you re-use the developer for however many negatives you are developing that one sitting or do you change the developer for each negative?
I make 500-600 mL of developer and discard it every time. I use this when I develop 1-2 negatives. I make 1 L if I have more negatives. Using HC-110 will be very cheap and use only a tiny amount of stock solution. The developer oxidize in air so it is better to discard every time. I use the Ilford fix as specified in the instruction for 24 8x10 negatives. I use 1.5% acetic acid as stop and use it for 24 negatives as well. Both stop and fix bath do not oxidize in the air so they can be kept for many months without issues.
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm compelled to try tray development because I don't have a system to develop 5x7 negatives (as I do for 4x5 and 8x10). If you're keeping negatives submerged (i.e. not floating), and they are stuck together, wouldn't only the top negative have sufficient exposure to the developer? It seems like the other negatives, being stuck to the one above would not be sufficiently exposed to the developer. Have you had challenges with uneven development?
You cover some good tips in the video production industry! We are interested what you do, keep going. Anytime you are in Phoenix reach out. If you want, DM us @dmakproductions on IG and we can chat. You kill it!
I don't know why I said months when I have been developing sheet film for 6 years now!
Thank you Marco, very helpful and useful information!
Replying to a comment by Filibert that I inadvertently deleted: to keep track of the time while developing I use these Gralab timers that you can see in the video. They have glow-in-the-dark clock hands. I put a piece of cardboard in front of the clock so that it does not shine light on to the film, but so that I can peek at the clock to check the time.
Excellent directions and details of tray development of large format negatives. I have done tray development before but find the tips that this video very useful. I developing some sheet film this week again after years of absence from large format. Thanks for the clear instructions.
Thanks for your comment. I tried to condense as much information as possible in this video, it is great you can find some of it useful. Best of luck with your new sheets!
Thank you, this is very useful!
Very helpfull🎉🎉 Thank you!
This is useful, thank you!
Glad to help!
Thank you ! Very helpful! )))
Thanks for the comment and good luck with your images!
Thank you.
Thank you very much Marco! Despite having read a few times Ansel Adams' description of how to develop sheet film in trays I was quite confused about/intimidated by the procedure. Your tutorial is indeed very helpful :) and it is also very valuable as I was not able to find any other video about this topic on RUclips. Not this detailed at least.
One question: wouldn't it be convenient to develop the sheets emulsion side down in order to reduce the risk of scratching them? Thanks and cheers from Italy!
Ciao! I think the emulsion side is very soft and it would risk to be scratched if rubbed against the bottom of the tray.
@@MarcoFantin1 also, if you develop emulsion side down, you could get rib lines caused by ribs in the trays. The recessed part gets more developer, so they are darker.
Thanks for sharing this. Really useful. I have been using a SPP tank for my 4x5 sheet film but want to start developing in trays.your video is good guide for this. Do you mind sharing a link to the film drying clips? I have been loony for similar clips but can’t seem to find them.
Hey, thanks for your comment. Here are the clips, they are still looking like new www.google.com/amp/s/www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/123163-REG/Delta_58050_Stainless_Steel_Film_Clips.html/amp
Thanks for the tips! Just wondering if I only want to develop a single sheet at a time, can I just agitate it rather than shuffling the negative, i.e. similar to paper development in trays?
Yes.. i do it from time to time. Just make sure it does not float to the top. Having a second dummy sheet helps with consistency, but it is not necessary
@@MarcoFantin1 I wondered too. I only develop one sheet at a time because it's just too messy to handle many sheets. (I also got some negs didn't get enough developer.)
@@oasisneko1 yes you can do one sheet but I had more consistent results shuffling the negatives. Replying to your other comment, to reduce contrast I would definitely reduce agitation. Do the first 20 seconds continuous, and then once every 30 seconds. You should find the info in the developer box
For the fresh chemical tip, is it ok to re-use the stop + fix? Do you re-use the developer for however many negatives you are developing that one sitting or do you change the developer for each negative?
I make 500-600 mL of developer and discard it every time. I use this when I develop 1-2 negatives. I make 1 L if I have more negatives. Using HC-110 will be very cheap and use only a tiny amount of stock solution. The developer oxidize in air so it is better to discard every time.
I use the Ilford fix as specified in the instruction for 24 8x10 negatives. I use 1.5% acetic acid as stop and use it for 24 negatives as well. Both stop and fix bath do not oxidize in the air so they can be kept for many months without issues.
Hi, thanks for the video. I'm compelled to try tray development because I don't have a system to develop 5x7 negatives (as I do for 4x5 and 8x10). If you're keeping negatives submerged (i.e. not floating), and they are stuck together, wouldn't only the top negative have sufficient exposure to the developer? It seems like the other negatives, being stuck to the one above would not be sufficiently exposed to the developer. Have you had challenges with uneven development?
If you shuffle them often, as described in the video, there will be fresh developing solution on top of each negative and the development will be even
For the pre-wash, what is it? Is it just water or is it some sort of chemical mix?
Just water, best if close to the dev temperature.
How much solution do you use per sheet of 10x8 film?
this has to be done in complete darkness? Or the negatives are safe to work with red or green light?
Complete darkness for all negatives (except orthocromatic negative that do not see red light). Iso 400 in particular requires very strict darkness.
You cover some good tips in the video production industry! We are interested what you do, keep going. Anytime you are in Phoenix reach out. If you want, DM us @dmakproductions on IG and we can chat. You kill it!