Small diameter polyethylene or nylon tubing as shown in this video can be cleanly cut with a *_new_* single-edge razor blade or *_new_* utility knife blade, without necking the tubing as a tubing cutter does or crushing the tubing as scissors or diagonal-cutting pliers do.. I usually place the tubing on a piece of wood that serves as an anvil, then simply press the blade down and cut through the tubing in one clean motion.
Nylon is mega ridgid .......polyethylene is a little more flexible.........polyeurethane is the most flexible and is great on turns and small radii........if your tubing is too ridgid , it puts alot of strain on the push-in connectors gripping action..........this system makes for a great installation and is lighter than brass fittings or aluminum tube..........nice stuff..
Sure, sell it before it cracks and let the next guy fix it. I guess I have a different quality expectations. Just because it's amateur built, doesn't mean you should cheap out. FYI, the installed weight is virtually the same. The cost difference is no more then $10.
almost certainly not; you'd see a lot of npt to flared tubes in standard sizes, or even hose-fittings, clamps, etc. for an experimental build (experiments in safety design and construction) several of these push-to-connect systems are available with collar retainers that clip into the connection port and prevent removal. it's probably worth it also to ACTUALLY MOUNT the fittings that will allow it with small diameter screws to eliminate vibration as a source of fretting action within the retention mechanism. Over time, that fretting is going to act as a stress concentrator and shorten the life of the tubes.
Small diameter polyethylene or nylon tubing as shown in this video can be cleanly cut with a *_new_* single-edge razor blade or *_new_* utility knife blade, without necking the tubing as a tubing cutter does or crushing the tubing as scissors or diagonal-cutting pliers do.. I usually place the tubing on a piece of wood that serves as an anvil, then simply press the blade down and cut through the tubing in one clean motion.
Always good stuff here. Thanks!
^-----What he said
Я не слова не понимаю , но вы так все понятно показуите , спасибо очень интересно смотреть.
Always great info and ideas from you. This is why I Patreon'd!!
Thanks for a good instruction sir.
Nylon is mega ridgid .......polyethylene is a little more flexible.........polyeurethane is the most flexible and is great on turns and small radii........if your tubing is too ridgid , it puts alot of strain on the push-in connectors gripping action..........this system makes for a great installation and is lighter than brass fittings or aluminum tube..........nice stuff..
DOT airbrake line is the way to go. It's low cost, won't fail, won't crack, and comes in many colors. The cheap stuff can crack and leak with age.
Plastics weigh less and aren't subject to fatigue cracking. Kept out of sunlight, they'll last longer than you care to own the airplane.
Sure, sell it before it cracks and let the next guy fix it. I guess I have a different quality expectations. Just because it's amateur built, doesn't mean you should cheap out. FYI, the installed weight is virtually the same. The cost difference is no more then $10.
+Turning Short Final - Is a century long enough? See plasticpipe.org/pdf/press-release-jana-lab-tech-report.pdf
Where did you purchase the Red tubing? Any links?
I learn so much from these videos. And the poster in the background; is that the cover of the album "Meet the Beatles"? I have an original of that.
McMaster Air #1 source
merci
Would like hook up of matco brake lines to brake fittings.
What about drenage point?
How do you connect to a metal line from the pitot tube?
Sir, I want to build a aircraft and I need your help
Are these legal on certified aircraft?
almost certainly not; you'd see a lot of npt to flared tubes in standard sizes, or even hose-fittings, clamps, etc. for an experimental build (experiments in safety design and construction) several of these push-to-connect systems are available with collar retainers that clip into the connection port and prevent removal. it's probably worth it also to ACTUALLY MOUNT the fittings that will allow it with small diameter screws to eliminate vibration as a source of fretting action within the retention mechanism. Over time, that fretting is going to act as a stress concentrator and shorten the life of the tubes.