Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! So helpful and great camera angle. Love your comment about honoring the material and embracing the thread. You rock!
Hi! Becky. I have the first DVD of your work. I have learned a lot and I am still learning now with the videos of your channel on youtube. Thanks.💖 Brazil.😙
Thank you for an enjoyable and informative video on using the blanket stitch to applique. I like the look of both stitches. I'd be okay too with how the point of the leaf looked, I feel like that's part of the charm of hand made creations. 😊
I am so glad you made this video, I just really discovered the blanket stitch on my Singer Brilliance two days ago and been thinking about playing with it. I thought it was me the inept...now I have realised how complicated it is as it is the sequence of the stitch that one has to play with. I will dive into it as I like the final results and always like a good challenge, but it is going to be a bit tough as this machine has not got two important tools that my other beloved machine (with no blanket stitch has): speed control and needle up-down. So fingers crossed! There is always your beautiful video on hand sewn appliquè in case of fail!! :D
You can certainly give that a try and see what works best for you. I will say that straight stitching at corners leave them a little high at the edges. Sometimes that matters and other times it doesn't.
If you mean the foot I'm using, that is an open-toe embroidery foot. Nothing fancy. If you machine didn't come with one, I'll bet you can find one to fit.
Did you do anything besides pinning to pre-attach the leaf? Did you use fusing? I'm a new sewist, made a mistake and want to fix it (experimentally) by cutting out square shapes from the printed fabric (each shape has a different picture inside like a teapot or flowers or teacup) and I want to sew each square onto a larger piece of fabric. Maybe about 3 or 4 if them. The pattern also has the squares drawn out in it - about 2.5" each. It's a vintage style apron with mirrored thick wide L-shaped neck straps that get stitched behind the neck but I accidentally cut out one side incorrectly so it's a pattern on the left side (if facing the apron) and the white wrong side on the right!😂 So see I thought I could cut out some of these coincidentally perfect squares from the pattern and applique them onto the wrong side to look whimsical or throw the eye off (less glaring difference). Mostly just to play around as this is just an experimental apron! But would I need to iron on fusing first kr could I just pun them down and sew on? Thanks!
Learning by doing is a good way to go! I'll bet you don't make the same mistake again :-). To answer your question, I generally don't fuse and I think that you could hold the squares in place with pins or a little thread basting. Are you going to turn the edges of the squares under? Or do you want raw edges? If you want raw edges, it's possible that fusing would be a good choice for you, but choose the fusible web carefully. Some are stiff, others are less stiff. Wonder Fuse by Clover would be a good choice. If you do fuse, you should still stitch around the outer edges of the squares. Also, I think your fix is a good one!
Thank you for your video. Camera showed nice close-ups which really helped. I would like to have seen how you would end the stitching process as you came around to the first stitch wince I'm sure you don't back-stitch.
I usually cut the threads long and take them to the back to knot them. In some cases I switch to a tiny straight back stitch. It depends on the shape and how much it will bother me if the ending shows. Hope this helps.
@@BeckyGoldsmith Hi Becky, I guess I didn't phrase my question very well. My question was when you are ending your stitching and come around to where you began, is there a special tick to making the stitches meld perfectly and not show an obvious overlap? Thanks
@@AnneWickman Sadly, no trick. You might be lucky and it matches on its own. If not, look ahead and shift the fabric under the presser foot to get it in place. Try using the handwheel to control the needle so that you can find the right spot. Hope that makes sense :-).
What type of needle and size of needle did you use for the 80wt? Where I am I don't have access to 80 wt thread only 50 wt. what type and size needle would you recommend for that wt as well.
Aurifil recommends either a 70/10 or 80/12 microtex/sharps or embroidery needles and I used whichever one of those I had in my drawer. I carry some 80wt thread on my site, www.pieceocake.com/shop/Thread/Aurifil-80wt-Cotton-Thread.htm. As to which needles work best with 50wt thread, it depends on the specific thread because 50wt threads vary widely in thickness from company to company. In most cases you could probably use an 80/12 needle and it would be fine.
Does this process keep the edge of the applique from fraying? Someone told me that you don't quilt over your applique. That doesn't make sense to me. You'd have unquilted areas on the back of your quilt. That would look silly to me. Which is correct? Thank you for the video!
It is perfectly fine to quilt over your applique and in many cases, you do want to quilt over your applique. In this video I have turned my seam allowance under so my edges will not fray. If you fuse your pieces and have raw edges, the blanket stitch can help stop fraying but a lot depends on the weave of the fabric, the strength of the fusible web, and size of your stitch.
That is one of the two Appliquick tools that come in the set. I love them! They are engineered very well and work like a charm. Find them here: pieceocake.com/collections/hand-applique-tools/products/apliquick-rods
It is true that there are a variety of pointy tools that can be used in the same way. That said, if you get a chance to hold one of the Apliquick rods in your hand, you should, just for fun. I think you will notice a difference. They are engineered for this job and they work really well.
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Thank you for explaining so we can understand. Love the way you teach. 👍
Great tutorial on blanket stitch. Thank you!
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. So helpful to get a closeup of how to execute this technique.
Thank you! A wonderful video very much needed. Nice closeup view of sewing process along with clear, concise instruction.
Very Helpful Thank You Becky.. Needed a Refresher Course on this, since I haven't done this in a while..
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! So helpful and great camera angle. Love your comment about honoring the material and embracing the thread. You rock!
I like rocking :-).
Hi! Becky. I have the first DVD of your work. I have learned a lot and I am still learning now with the videos of your channel on youtube. Thanks.💖 Brazil.😙
Thank you for an enjoyable and informative video on using the blanket stitch to applique. I like the look of both stitches. I'd be okay too with how the point of the leaf looked, I feel like that's part of the charm of hand made creations. 😊
Thank you for commenting. I do love it when people find these videos helpful :-).
Becky Goldsmith 👌🏼😊
Thank you, I like your teaching style
I am so glad you made this video, I just really discovered the blanket stitch on my Singer Brilliance two days ago and been thinking about playing with it. I thought it was me the inept...now I have realised how complicated it is as it is the sequence of the stitch that one has to play with. I will dive into it as I like the final results and always like a good challenge, but it is going to be a bit tough as this machine has not got two important tools that my other beloved machine (with no blanket stitch has): speed control and needle up-down. So fingers crossed! There is always your beautiful video on hand sewn appliquè in case of fail!! :D
I hope it's going well. Be kind to yourself as you sew. Perfection is nice, but not mandatory :-).
Thank you so much! I'll have to remind myself that, always never good enough!
It looks great, don't stress over one teeny tiney stitch. No one will even notice it when using the blanket.
So true!
Awesome video! Wondering of ivcould change the stitch type to a straight stitch when approaching the cornrrs?
You can certainly give that a try and see what works best for you. I will say that straight stitching at corners leave them a little high at the edges. Sometimes that matters and other times it doesn't.
Wow! Thank you very helpful! Do you have any information on the Edge stitch foot?
If you mean the foot I'm using, that is an open-toe embroidery foot. Nothing fancy. If you machine didn't come with one, I'll bet you can find one to fit.
@@BeckyGoldsmith it's a completely different foot. Its #10
For Bernida.
@@abbeyp8834 I misread the question so thank you for the reply. I have a #10 and have rarely use it so I forget it’s there. Sigh.
@@BeckyGoldsmith oh ok thanks for all your wonderful information and fast replies!!🤗
Thank you so much this is a great help to me as a beginner
Enjoy your sewing :-).
Did you do anything besides pinning to pre-attach the leaf? Did you use fusing? I'm a new sewist, made a mistake and want to fix it (experimentally) by cutting out square shapes from the printed fabric (each shape has a different picture inside like a teapot or flowers or teacup) and I want to sew each square onto a larger piece of fabric. Maybe about 3 or 4 if them. The pattern also has the squares drawn out in it - about 2.5" each. It's a vintage style apron with mirrored thick wide L-shaped neck straps that get stitched behind the neck but I accidentally cut out one side incorrectly so it's a pattern on the left side (if facing the apron) and the white wrong side on the right!😂 So see I thought I could cut out some of these coincidentally perfect squares from the pattern and applique them onto the wrong side to look whimsical or throw the eye off (less glaring difference). Mostly just to play around as this is just an experimental apron!
But would I need to iron on fusing first kr could I just pun them down and sew on?
Thanks!
Learning by doing is a good way to go! I'll bet you don't make the same mistake again :-). To answer your question, I generally don't fuse and I think that you could hold the squares in place with pins or a little thread basting. Are you going to turn the edges of the squares under? Or do you want raw edges? If you want raw edges, it's possible that fusing would be a good choice for you, but choose the fusible web carefully. Some are stiff, others are less stiff. Wonder Fuse by Clover would be a good choice. If you do fuse, you should still stitch around the outer edges of the squares.
Also, I think your fix is a good one!
Thank you for your video. Camera showed nice close-ups which really helped. I would like to have seen how you would end the stitching process as you came around to the first stitch wince I'm sure you don't back-stitch.
I usually cut the threads long and take them to the back to knot them. In some cases I switch to a tiny straight back stitch. It depends on the shape and how much it will bother me if the ending shows. Hope this helps.
@@BeckyGoldsmith Hi Becky, I guess I didn't phrase my question very well. My question was when you are ending your stitching and come around to where you began, is there a special tick to making the stitches meld perfectly and not show an obvious overlap? Thanks
@@AnneWickman Sadly, no trick. You might be lucky and it matches on its own. If not, look ahead and shift the fabric under the presser foot to get it in place. Try using the handwheel to control the needle so that you can find the right spot. Hope that makes sense :-).
Thank you for that lesson
What type of needle and size of needle did you use for the 80wt? Where I am I don't have access to 80 wt thread only 50 wt. what type and size needle would you recommend for that wt as well.
Aurifil recommends either a 70/10 or 80/12 microtex/sharps or embroidery needles and I used whichever one of those I had in my drawer. I carry some 80wt thread on my site, www.pieceocake.com/shop/Thread/Aurifil-80wt-Cotton-Thread.htm. As to which needles work best with 50wt thread, it depends on the specific thread because 50wt threads vary widely in thickness from company to company. In most cases you could probably use an 80/12 needle and it would be fine.
Thank you very much for a great video! Can you tell me the name of the sewing machine?
That is my Bernina B535. My other Bernina's work the same way as do many other sewing machines.
@@BeckyGoldsmith thank u! 😊 Your information is very useful for me!
Does this process keep the edge of the applique from fraying? Someone told me that you don't quilt over your applique. That doesn't make sense to me. You'd have unquilted areas on the back of your quilt. That would look silly to me. Which is correct? Thank you for the video!
It is perfectly fine to quilt over your applique and in many cases, you do want to quilt over your applique. In this video I have turned my seam allowance under so my edges will not fray. If you fuse your pieces and have raw edges, the blanket stitch can help stop fraying but a lot depends on the weave of the fabric, the strength of the fusible web, and size of your stitch.
Thanks for sharing
What is the name of the tool you are using?
That is one of the two Appliquick tools that come in the set. I love them! They are engineered very well and work like a charm. Find them here: pieceocake.com/collections/hand-applique-tools/products/apliquick-rods
الفيديو رائع ولكن ليته كان مترجما للعربية ..للاستفادة ...
شكرا لكم
I dont feel I got enough information to do this stitch.
You are all about perfection aren't you
❤️
A double pointed knitting needle or even a pencil or pen would do to control your applique, no need to spend money on a special "rod"
It is true that there are a variety of pointy tools that can be used in the same way. That said, if you get a chance to hold one of the Apliquick rods in your hand, you should, just for fun. I think you will notice a difference. They are engineered for this job and they work really well.