There were some hits and misses with this one, but I still dig my design. I had a short follow up planned that I never finished. I really need to do that one.
Thanks, Perifractic! Admittedly, your projects inspired me to get into the hobby and relive my youth through retro-computing and I'm having a blast. Ain't it funny how you only relive your past when you are older? 🤔😁
On the colour of these machines… somewhat amazingly, I just picked up a Commodore plus/4 and 1551 disk drive that are genuinely charcoal grey. I think they came late in the production line. Every other plus/4 computer or component I have seen has been a dark chocolate brown, including a DPS-1101 daisywheel printer. Those items have been dark brown on the inside, too - so this is not sunburn, but a genome colour. Therefore, all-in-all, there ARE two colours of plus/4, although the tone of those colours are similar with dark brown being slightly darker.
First, James, thanks so much for taking the time to watch and provide great comments! Now, on to a reply for this one, I've noticed the same color changes. At some point, I'd like to get an actual color palette codes and for a closer PLA match.
Good grief yes, soldering iron burns are the worst! They seem to sting for days! (a spatter-ball of solder on the skin is a close second!) In my experience, SD cards are a bit like guitar picks.... looks like you've got a good retrieval technique going there Steven! Case finish...?? You could potentially wet & dry, then buff the case? or smooth it, then spray to get a closer colour match? Perhaps careful application of Grey modelling paint to the tops of the arrows, to better accentuate them complimenting the cursor keys on the Plus/4? Great looking device, great build, like the complementing gradient of the device.... very nice!! 🤩👍
To get a better pint quality on the top, print it upside down. Then the sides will have slight printing line, which of course could also be sanded. Generally speaking, unless you go resin printing, you'll get this stepping issue.. unless you try to print in 0.1 mm height? or even smaller??
I did try it that way first and while the top was smoother, the angle caused very poor resolution for the LCD plate and especially the fins. They were gnarly and because the they needed supports, hard to clean up afterward. Appreciate the comment and it's has me thinking. 🤔 Thanks for watching!
Dark brown? I might not have had one for a few years but I could have sworn my Plus/4 was black?... Watched to the end, definitely black but you know what, that is an awesome project, nice job!
Something's going on with my Plus/4 and lighting. I agree, it is probably black; however, when I put black PLA next to the case, it clearly was not black and had a tinge of brown. At some point, I'd like to go back to the drawing board with printing and color selection. Maybe when there's an 3D printer upgrade in my work area. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, Tim!
So I’m no super geek when it comes to this stuff but I do have an understanding of digital audio. If I understand correctly, this kind of gadget would keep cassettes stored as something like a .WAV or some other audio format. Maybe even MP3. My question concerns the recording process. If you want to convert an old data cassette to an audio format you have to play it back and record it as a sound. Would it be better to use a square wave to record it rather than a sine, triangle or sawtooth? I figure a square wave would be best since the “sound” you’d be recording is binary, 1s and 0s, ON/OFF and a that. A square wave would be more in tune (no pun instead) with that data stream. Any thoughts?
Great question and one that I'm not sure I'm the person to answer. Sweetlilmre (or another viewer) might have a better answer, but I believe, again based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure it matters. The sound is analog and the computer converts the analog to digital. As long as it is a valid sound file, it should not matter. Hoping others weigh in. Thanks for the great question and for watching!
When you scroll through the list of games, do you have to press that button repeatedly or can you just hold the button down and scroll through continuously?
I've had to press continuously. There's a config file that might have a flag. I've always wanted to do a follow up and experiment with the config file but that got put on the back burner.
![SID Factory 2 - Tutorial [C64][SF2][Tutorial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nXNtLetxFUg/mqdefault.jpg)
Great!!!! I want to buy one! (y)
You are not the first to ask. 😂
@@retroCombs ;)
Love that introduction… you clearly worked hard for this one!
Yes, I definitely took one for the team on that project!
I came back to revisit this one and I have a WHOLE new appreciation for your design/printing fun on this one after my recent adventure! Nice one!
There were some hits and misses with this one, but I still dig my design. I had a short follow up planned that I never finished. I really need to do that one.
Nice work! 👍🕹️
Thanks, Perifractic! Admittedly, your projects inspired me to get into the hobby and relive my youth through retro-computing and I'm having a blast. Ain't it funny how you only relive your past when you are older? 🤔😁
@@retroCombs That's great, I'm flattered. Yep, nostalgia is a powerful thing.
Great design skills, looks great! 👍
Thanks for the nice words. Had a blast with this project.
0:38 C116 is mirror image 😲
Good catch. I grabbed that image directly from the Wikipedia page and didn't even notice. Thanks for the feedback.
@@retroCombs it was my first computer in '86.
You would definitely have noticed then! 😉
Bonjour, Steven Combs. it is a exceptionally vibrant video. thank. :)
Wow, thank you!
The tech is way over my head, but the design is awesome! Enjoyed watching
Not over your head, just unfamiliar with…
On the colour of these machines… somewhat amazingly, I just picked up a Commodore plus/4 and 1551 disk drive that are genuinely charcoal grey. I think they came late in the production line. Every other plus/4 computer or component I have seen has been a dark chocolate brown, including a DPS-1101 daisywheel printer. Those items have been dark brown on the inside, too - so this is not sunburn, but a genome colour. Therefore, all-in-all, there ARE two colours of plus/4, although the tone of those colours are similar with dark brown being slightly darker.
First, James, thanks so much for taking the time to watch and provide great comments! Now, on to a reply for this one, I've noticed the same color changes. At some point, I'd like to get an actual color palette codes and for a closer PLA match.
Good grief yes, soldering iron burns are the worst! They seem to sting for days! (a spatter-ball of solder on the skin is a close second!) In my experience, SD cards are a bit like guitar picks.... looks like you've got a good retrieval technique going there Steven! Case finish...?? You could potentially wet & dry, then buff the case? or smooth it, then spray to get a closer colour match? Perhaps careful application of Grey modelling paint to the tops of the arrows, to better accentuate them complimenting the cursor keys on the Plus/4? Great looking device, great build, like the complementing gradient of the device.... very nice!! 🤩👍
Luckily, I'm a speedy healer!
To get a better pint quality on the top, print it upside down. Then the sides will have slight printing line, which of course could also be sanded. Generally speaking, unless you go resin printing, you'll get this stepping issue.. unless you try to print in 0.1 mm height? or even smaller??
I did try it that way first and while the top was smoother, the angle caused very poor resolution for the LCD plate and especially the fins. They were gnarly and because the they needed supports, hard to clean up afterward. Appreciate the comment and it's has me thinking. 🤔 Thanks for watching!
Dark brown? I might not have had one for a few years but I could have sworn my Plus/4 was black?...
Watched to the end, definitely black but you know what, that is an awesome project, nice job!
Something's going on with my Plus/4 and lighting. I agree, it is probably black; however, when I put black PLA next to the case, it clearly was not black and had a tinge of brown. At some point, I'd like to go back to the drawing board with printing and color selection. Maybe when there's an 3D printer upgrade in my work area. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching, Tim!
So I’m no super geek when it comes to this stuff but I do have an understanding of digital audio. If I understand correctly, this kind of gadget would keep cassettes stored as something like a .WAV or some other audio format. Maybe even MP3.
My question concerns the recording process. If you want to convert an old data cassette to an audio format you have to play it back and record it as a sound. Would it be better to use a square wave to record it rather than a sine, triangle or sawtooth? I figure a square wave would be best since the “sound” you’d be recording is binary, 1s and 0s, ON/OFF and a that. A square wave would be more in tune (no pun instead) with that data stream.
Any thoughts?
Great question and one that I'm not sure I'm the person to answer. Sweetlilmre (or another viewer) might have a better answer, but I believe, again based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure it matters. The sound is analog and the computer converts the analog to digital. As long as it is a valid sound file, it should not matter. Hoping others weigh in. Thanks for the great question and for watching!
When you scroll through the list of games, do you have to press that button repeatedly or can you just hold the button down and scroll through continuously?
I've had to press continuously. There's a config file that might have a flag. I've always wanted to do a follow up and experiment with the config file but that got put on the back burner.