Cool video. Thanks. I use a nut slotting gauge to check the depth of the nut slots all along the process. It's a small investment , easy to use, that gives accurate measurements and demystifies once for all the string height problems. Could not live without.
Awesome work, this guy is a master! This used to be fine for me when I worked in a machine shop. Having the tools available makes the job. I made my own slot files out of different hacksaw blade thickness with very fine teeth and had many thickness available at my convenience along with the machinery, Now that I'm retired and not having the equipment, it's easier to buy a pre-made nut for a few bucks and modify it with some jeweler files and different thickness saw blades found at hobby shops. For those asking... files can be sanded or ground down to whatever specific thickness you need. A bigger slot can be slowly widen with a smaller file.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Amari Brett thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great video. I wish PRS SE nuts were given this much attention. My 2019 SE Custom 24 has only recently become playable since I finally figured out what you just demonstrated. I ended up having to refile my SE nut slots down with 400 grit wrapped around a feeler gauge. PRS cuts the slots into a V shape, which is terrible!!!!! The strings get pinched that way. I rounded off the bottoms of the slots and now it's great.
Hello thanks for all if your great videos . My question is once you pit on three coats of primer sealer how long do you wait to dry before your base coat
Could you suggest a brand or type of “Chew toy” that works well? Have you had any issues using these and what are some things to look for, or look out for, when buying/using these. I need to practice this more but screwing up is getting expensive lol. Thanks for the tip.
Wow! This is the best nut slotting video I've seen! One question: what do you do when there aren't nut slotting files that match your string gauges? I have a hollow body electric guitar that uses 10-52 strings, but StewMac nut slotting files only come in 0.046", 0.050", and 0.056" sizes. In that case, should you use the 0.050" file and just tilt it from side to side a bit while filing to get the size you need? Or better to go with the 0.056" file and not worry that the slot is a bit too wide?
I would like to create custom nuts for my guitars using exotic hard woods without expending lots of money on expensive nut files, what affordable alternative do I have? thank you.
Yes indeed, got myself an Erbauher belt sander recently and it really changed my workflow. As much as I love sanding by hand, this machine will save you countless hours. It just burns through material.
Do you find any issues with porosity or soft spots on those bones? I hadn’t really considered those before. But I’ll be down the pet store next time i can!
Great video as always! I've always used ca glue to secure the nut in the slot. Are there benefits to using wood glue as opposed to ca , or is there not really a difference other than it's just what you choose to use.
I watched this in total appreciation of the skill demonstrated till you glued the nut in place. I was puzzled as I suspect wood glue will make nut replacement or adjustment quite difficult. Is this normal practice? Does the polished bone nut release from the glue, a bit like some locktite products? My acoustic ukuleles (purchased and home built) all rely on a snug/press fit coupled with string pressure to retain the nut. Is this an electric guitar thing? Other classical guitar builders on RUclips don’t glue it in. Perhaps a steeper headstock angle on acoustic instruments improves string force clamping? I am sure you know your trade, but I am a bit puzzled.
You are WAY overthinking this. Glueing isn’t necessary but is common practice since changes in humidity can cause the fretboard to shrink back enough for the nut to fall out when the strings are removed. Replacing the nut is easy by simply heating the nut with the tip of a soldering iron to break the bond of the tiny amount of glue. Sometimes just a light tap with a fret hammer is all that’s needed.
@@HighlineGuitars I understand. Use glue sparingly. Heat up nut if removal is needed. Very practical advice. Thanks for the quick follow up! Really appreciate your videos and expertise!
I don't understand why you did not sand the nut to the final width before slotting. It seems to me that having the length established first prevents an error of changing the slot alignment.
Nice video but I was cringing at you filing from front to back. I'm sure the end result was perfect but that's the easiest way to leave a sitar like buzz. Personally I always file forward ie; from fretboard to headstock. Different strokes for different folks though
The only times I have had sitar tone was when the sides of the slots touched the sides of the string or if there was too much contact between the bottom of the string and the length of the slot. The direction I file has never made any difference to me, and that's after 500 guitar builds.
Cool video. Thanks. I use a nut slotting gauge to check the depth of the nut slots all along the process. It's a small investment , easy to use, that gives accurate measurements and demystifies once for all the string height problems. Could not live without.
Awesome work, this guy is a master! This used to be fine for me when I worked in a machine shop. Having the tools available makes the job. I made my own slot files out of different hacksaw blade thickness with very fine teeth and had many thickness available at my convenience along with the machinery, Now that I'm retired and not having the equipment, it's easier to buy a pre-made nut for a few bucks and modify it with some jeweler files and different thickness saw blades found at hobby shops. For those asking... files can be sanded or ground down to whatever specific thickness you need. A bigger slot can be slowly widen with a smaller file.
Amazing tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
I like how detailed you are in these videos. Thanks for the great content!
I appreciate that!
Much appreciated tutorial.
Thank you so much Chris that's a lot of work in makes me feel a little bit more relaxed when I have to do mine. Thank you very much.😀
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anyone know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I somehow lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Ulises River Instablaster :)
@Amari Brett thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Amari Brett it worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass !
@Ulises River Glad I could help xD
Great video. I wish PRS SE nuts were given this much attention. My 2019 SE Custom 24 has only recently become playable since I finally figured out what you just demonstrated. I ended up having to refile my SE nut slots down with 400 grit wrapped around a feeler gauge. PRS cuts the slots into a V shape, which is terrible!!!!! The strings get pinched that way. I rounded off the bottoms of the slots and now it's great.
Thanks for sharing
Great in depth video on making a nut
Absolutly love these guides, really helpful and inspirational!
The musicnomad diamond file is very sharp, how much pressure do you apply the while cutting it?
If I can figure out a way to measure the pressure, I'll let you know.
Hello thanks for all if your great videos . My question is once you pit on three coats of primer sealer how long do you wait to dry before your base coat
On a guitar nut?!?
@@HighlineGuitars no on painting a guitar body. How long do you wait after three coats of primer
Anyone can do it! " But me"!! Great video!
Ha! Chris, you make it look so easy.
It’s not.
It’s definitely a trial and error skill to learn.
Could you suggest a brand or type of “Chew toy” that works well? Have you had any issues using these and what are some things to look for, or look out for, when buying/using these. I need to practice this more but screwing up is getting expensive lol. Thanks for the tip.
Google Dentley's Large Femur Bone.
@@HighlineGuitars Sweet! Thanks a million man.
Wow! This is the best nut slotting video I've seen! One question: what do you do when there aren't nut slotting files that match your string gauges? I have a hollow body electric guitar that uses 10-52 strings, but StewMac nut slotting files only come in 0.046", 0.050", and 0.056" sizes. In that case, should you use the 0.050" file and just tilt it from side to side a bit while filing to get the size you need? Or better to go with the 0.056" file and not worry that the slot is a bit too wide?
Do the tilt. I make the slots a tiny bit wider to prevent sitar-like tones an string binding.
I would like to create custom nuts for my guitars using exotic hard woods without expending lots of money on expensive nut files, what affordable alternative do I have? thank you.
I need a belt sander. Takes forever to do this with just files
Yes indeed, got myself an Erbauher belt sander recently and it really changed my workflow. As much as I love sanding by hand, this machine will save you countless hours. It just burns through material.
Thanks for your straight forward advice. Do the bones you buy need any prep prior to use ???
Nope.
Are the 3m sheets printed with those bold grit numbers? Also, wanted to know what bit you use in CNC to get best finish when cutting a neck. Thanks
Well I sure didn’t put them on there. All I use is a 1/4” 2 flute spiral up cut.
Well none of us would know for sure given you're so exact and comprehensive in your work and videos.
Do you find any issues with porosity or soft spots on those bones?
I hadn’t really considered those before. But I’ll be down the pet store next time i can!
No.
How did u get to where u can sand without getting the surface out of square ?
Repetition.
Great video as always! I've always used ca glue to secure the nut in the slot. Are there benefits to using wood glue as opposed to ca , or is there not really a difference other than it's just what you choose to use.
CA is overkill. Wood glue does just enough to keep the nut from falling out of the slot when you restring.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks for the insight. I think I'll give this a try on my next one.
I watched this in total appreciation of the skill demonstrated till you glued the nut in place. I was puzzled as I suspect wood glue will make nut replacement or adjustment quite difficult. Is this normal practice? Does the polished bone nut release from the glue, a bit like some locktite products? My acoustic ukuleles (purchased and home built) all rely on a snug/press fit coupled with string pressure to retain the nut. Is this an electric guitar thing? Other classical guitar builders on RUclips don’t glue it in. Perhaps a steeper headstock angle on acoustic instruments improves string force clamping? I am sure you know your trade, but I am a bit puzzled.
You are WAY overthinking this. Glueing isn’t necessary but is common practice since changes in humidity can cause the fretboard to shrink back enough for the nut to fall out when the strings are removed. Replacing the nut is easy by simply heating the nut with the tip of a soldering iron to break the bond of the tiny amount of glue. Sometimes just a light tap with a fret hammer is all that’s needed.
@@HighlineGuitars I understand. Use glue sparingly. Heat up nut if removal is needed. Very practical advice. Thanks for the quick follow up! Really appreciate your videos and expertise!
I don't understand why you did not sand the nut to the final width before slotting. It seems to me that having the length established first prevents an error of changing the slot alignment.
I am that good.
Nice video but I was cringing at you filing from front to back. I'm sure the end result was perfect but that's the easiest way to leave a sitar like buzz. Personally I always file forward ie; from fretboard to headstock. Different strokes for different folks though
The only times I have had sitar tone was when the sides of the slots touched the sides of the string or if there was too much contact between the bottom of the string and the length of the slot. The direction I file has never made any difference to me, and that's after 500 guitar builds.
Somewhere there's a dog crying to see some "wasted" bone !!! 😩