Pro Tip - if you put a twist in your straps before tightening them down - it reduces the road noise. Flat straps will whine as they vibrate back and forth. A twist or two eliminates that vibration / high pitched noise.
Thanks Kevin, The first thing that I do with a new vehicle is to attach a couple of loops of cord under the rear bumper and I use them to run the rear canoe cords through. They stay on year-round and are less abrasive on the cords than around metal parts under the bumper. I would also remove the D-rings from the front straps and simply run your cord through the straps. I winced everytime I heard the rings hit your fenders!
Because tying cord to a webbing loop will fail eventually. If the connection point move it will saw back and forth fraying the material. Use a metal loop or biner to join them instead.
Some people forget that last and most critical step, which is shaking it and saying "that thing ain't going anywhere." It is the most common rookie mistake.
I tell you this funny tale just so you can laugh. I took a very long canoe trip a few years ago,,, 3 months,, 1,300 miles. But,, but I left my truck all the way back where? The solution was a rented car and a one way rental. It was a Ford Fusion,, with a 20 foot expedition canoe on the roof. The canoe was 6 or 7 feet longer than the car and just as wide,, and with rocker,, the bow of the canoe well V'ed down to the front and rear,,, I drove the more than 1,000 miles back to my truck laying sideways on the center console to be able to see out under the bow of the boat. It worked ! But it did look pretty funny with this giant canoe on this little car. I think had you flipped the rig over and into the river,, the canoe could have carried the car just as easily.
Definitely sounds awkward but thanks for the morning chuckle with my coffee. I can almost visualise it because I had an 18 footer on my wife's crosstrek but it was only an hours drive to our route.
Two separate ropes in the front, one for each side of the car, provides much more stability in winds and when driving at high speeds. The single rope method shown in this video has less ability to resist wind loading from the side and is more likely to lead to "wobble" as the front of the canoe starts to slowly slide side to side. This wobble happens because the horizontal resistance required to resist the wind is being provided by the belly straps. The straps tend not to be able to handle this type of wind loading adequately. When I first started transporting my canoe, I used only a single rope in the front and had this happen when driving faster than 50 mph (80 kph). These days I go along at up to 80 mph (130 kph) on the highway driving across the wind swept prairie with no problem. You get some improvement by using two ropes in the back too, although the impact is less compared to using two ropes in the front. Obviously Kevin uses the single rope method successfully and probably has for many years - different strokes for different folks (no paddling pun intended).
I have a Yakama rack and I stick a piece of pipe(smaller than the main pipe)into the back pipe,that way it sticks out past the side of the car.Yakama will sell you a pipe that lives inside that back pipe(for $70+)but mine lives in the back with the paddles.
Man that’s really an interesting way to do it. I use two ratchet straps across the canoe and over the rack. Never had a problem with it falling off or getting lose but your way seems safer lol
You need to be a bit more careful with the ratchet straps, they are strong enough that if you overdo it, and you have a light weight canoe, you could crack it.
For my bow and stern, I just run lines from the bow and stern back to my rack, and synch them down tight. In strong side winds, I think your way may be better. Good information, be well my friend.
Yep, that's how I do it, only with a bit more grunting and a pep talk to myself before I get the first end up. ...I solo a 17' aluminum Grumman. .......and it's really motivating me to build a cedar pack boat lol.
That method works nice for a vehicle without a trunk sticking out like you have..however I have a corolla and its much more difficult trying to slide the canoe up without damaging the car.
Clarification: in some states, it is illegal to carry items (including boats) on top of a vehicle that are wider than the widest part of the vehicle measured from the outside of the side mirrors. I suspect this law is rarely enforced except when it is quite obvious that the load is simply too wide.
I get it. Thanks. Now, my next question: Which states? Maybe I won't go there. I can see a regulation on not exceeding a specific width (8 or 8 1/2 feet in most states as far as I know), but a Sprinter van has way greater width than a 1970s Honda Civic. Those are extremes and maybe two canoes on a Civic is unlikely, but two on a Forester (or Rav4 or CR-V) doesn't seem unreasonable.
Here's one way: ruclips.net/video/wCXgHduDsLQ/видео.html However, I've not tried that method, although I know balancing a heavy canoe on one end is quite difficult. I have a 16' 72 lb. Chief tandom that I've been cartopping and paddling for nearly 20 years. It has two thwarts in the middle; I balance the canoe on my shoulders using the thwart that's slightly closer to center, because using the other thwart makes the front end much too heavy, which is bad news for trying to walk forward. To get it on my shoulders, I start with the canoe right side up on the ground. I stand to one side at the center, grip the gunnel, pick up that side, bend at my knees, and rest the bottom of the hull on my thighs. If the thwart I'm using as a yoke is to my right, I grip the near end of that thwart and the far end of the other thwart. Then I roll the canoe across my thighs to get some momentum, which helps me get it over my head and onto my shoulders. These videos - ruclips.net/video/Ku5Apd8G84Y/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/ObZRodlP27E/видео.html - are close to my method; the main difference is I don't have an actual yoke in the middle, so the routine is a bit different. But you can see how each one lifts the canoe onto her thighs and then her shoulders. For the most part, I'm doing the same thing. Once you watch these videos, I'm sure you'll see even more in the suggested sidebar. REMEMBER: as all videos have instructed, do not use your back. I hurt mine while moving into my house, well before I purchased my canoe. But I've never hurt my back lifting the canoe using this method, because I'm not using my back to do so.
I've never found that it's necessary to put that much tension on front and back tie downs. In fact there are many canoe hull materials that can be damaged by overtightening.
There are a few types of "truckers hitches" .... how is this one for untying? I really like the bowline on a bite for the truckers hitch never slips and easy to untie. The fender bolt straps are a sweet set up. I also like foam blocks under the gunwales as it helps cushion the boat and lessens the chance of the boat slipping side way.
I have no idea if you are still reading comments. Do I need to be concerned at all in scratching my canoe (the gunnels) when rolling over the bars? I just assumed it would scratch, but maybe it doesn't?
Would that work the same way without the shoulder holder in the middle of canoe? Clearly you have the physics right to get it on the roof. Also I wouldn’t waste your time with the truckers hitch for the front in the back you can just get single rope ratchet ties
I started to question why we need ties on the front and back end of the canoe as most vehicles today have no place to tie the rope. I came to the conclusion that if the rack is secure to the vehicle then it's fine to tie the canoe just to the rack. I use ropes over the top of the canoe and tied to both racks. As an extra measure I may tie a rope from the front of the canoe to the front rack and the same with the back of the canoe to the rear rack. This is to stop the canoe from sliding forward or backward if by chance the ropes over the top became loose. However, I would like to see cars come with attachment points below each bumper like in the good old days.
It might depend on your canoe, and how flexible it is. I've gone with the front rope too lose, and even then, the canoe started to bend more than I would like, but we have an ultra light Kevlar. I also just like the idea that everything you are hauling should be attached through two different systems, in case one fails. If it was tied down, and one of the straps failed, I think it would be ok, but if you had just the two straps, and one failed, while unlikely, would be pretty bad if you were going highway speeds.
Good straightforward tutorial. I've been using the truckers knot for 40 years on all types of tie downs. Place permanent looped para-chord around the frame under the hood of my wife's Crosstrek but I like your idea better but would add some tape to the metal rings. I'm assuming the straps across the top are looped around the racks on the driver side?
I use the trucker's hitch also. My normal vehicle is an F-150 I use a pair of simple bent tube frames in the ladder rack holes,, but the difference is,, On every truck I have owned for 45 years now, I install 4 hole hollow base, stainless boat cleats, 6 or 8 inch. I use stainless screws and marine 3M 5200... then nylon braided 1/4 to 3/8 inch line (25 foot lengths max.) An over hand or perfection loop in one end and either the truckers hitch , or just a cleat hitch. I can tie a canoe or a ladder on in seconds. The reason for the 25 foot max length on the line. A 24 foot piece will pick up and layout smooth and quick,, a 27 foot piece of the same line, you will have to untangle and take an accidental knot out every time you pick it up. Could not tell you why, makes no sense, something about line topology,, the difference occurs between 25 and 26 foot lengths of 1/4 or 5/16 line. Complete mystery to me, but a 27 foot or longer piece will double your tie down time. Another trick you may want to use. The rear seat, seat-belts. Open the rear door of a passenger vehicle, slide the buckle down to keep it out of the way, take the belt to full extension, lift toward the top of the car, and then close the door. Most autos you will finish with a perfectly mounted and extremely strong attachment point 8 inches above the roof at the midline of the canoe. I use a large vinyl covered hook, or a large beener on the ends of the rachet or cam strap to connect across the top. The best tie down on the entire auto.
Kinda painful watching the way the stern torqued to the left when Kevin honked on the rear tie-down. Seems as though vertical force would be better. Wonder if this tie down scheme might result in a bent boat that tracks in circles after a long drive in hot sun
Not sure if that's an issue. I've tied my boat down like this for over 35 years and never had that issue. Maybe it went left on the back tie -down because I didn't have the front tie down on yet - and I didn't put my left brackets in place on the rack. I used to do that but I found it wasn't worth it.
Clarifying for viewers on the truckers hitch: He said "you will use this KNOT a lot" not "you will use this NOT a lot" lolol. Also Kevin what do you use as a bailer? Would love a basic canoe equipment tutorial!
I noticed the same when I re-watched it LOL. I now use Paddle Canada's throw rope and bailer - light weight and approved. Not sure it's the best...and certainly worth a review. Thanks.
Hi Kevin. I appreciate all you do: videos, books, etc. I just bought a canoe and I need a roof rack that can carry two canoes. What make and model is your roof rack and where did you buy it?
Not good strapping--you should have the rear of canoe tied at the smaller width of the canoe and I would wrap rope/tied down around the canoe's inside cross bar; the front end would also be tied with rope looped/wrapped around canoe's inside cross bar and at the smaller width; I would do the same for the other side. Your way of tying is for short distance, none long highway trips.
If only I could lift and carry my canoe the way you do! I tried but between the weight of the canoe and the wide beam (recreational canoe for rowing as well as paddling) and not having the same degree of upper body strength (yes, I'm a woman and no, I'm not a body builder!), it's just not happening. Any recommendations? I can manage the rest once the canoe is on top of the vehicle. My last "canoe car" had a roof rack. This one does not.
Why not cut your straps to the correct length to avoid flapping and damage to your car’s finish? In the US many states have rules about over hang. A red flag is required if anything over hangs two feet or more, and items attached to the roof cannot go beyond the rear view mirrors. If you tie the bow and stern lines to the canoe (not just loop the line through), the canoe cannot slide to the right or left. Finally, I always tie a stop line from inside the canoe to the rear carrier to avoid having the boat slide forward in an emergency stop. I’ve damaged both canoes and cars by being casual about mounting canoes to the vehicle.
Can you clarify "...cannot go beyond the rear view mirrors."? Rear view mirrors are a single point. One way or the other, items on the roof will be beyond the mirrors.
Good stuff Kevin, I understand.too, that there is tremendous wind flow into the canoe at highway speed from the deflection off the windshield, so another good reason for tying down the ends. Question , when in Scotland you used a 15 foot prospector and I believe you own a 16 footer in Canada. Was it more enjoyable and lively to use a 15 footer.. would that be better for someone who paddles alone most of the time?. Thanks..
A 15 ft solo prospector would be better for solo - but if you can only afford to have one boat and you'll be doing both tandem and solo, then the 16 is the way to go.
@@newlife155 I have never paddled a tough stuff layup. But i have given my ultra-light lay up a good beating over the decades.My only upgrade has been 3-4 layers of woven fiberglass cloth as skid plates . Mainly to absorb wear at put ins and take outs . I bought it with no gelcoat but have painted it a few times with a 2 part paint.Also replaced the ash gunnels twice .This thing portages like a dream with just one finger needed to balance/steady the canoe .
Hmmm too much hassle for my liking . Recently i drive an 07 escape with nothing in the back to tie to except the spare tire rim. Suppose that would work but i bought a hitch for $200 that attaches with 4 bolts so what the heck. Up front i have tie down tabs which you could thread rope through but i drilled holes for 5/16 eye bolts which i cut open about 3/8'' . This allows me to slip in a loop. I attach those first then push the canoe back ( i have lengths pre tied to the bow eye bolt and do not monkey with these ropes on the trip) to put tension on the ropes . At the back i have a strap attached to a seat with the same slip buckle you are using . You pull on it to tighten and to get more leverage pull down on the canoe at the same time . In the middle i tie one rope through the back doors to the handles above the doors and then close the doors . Never need to tie a single knot and everything is as tight as you want . If things loosen, just push the canoe back at the front or pull back from the rear and take up the slack by pulling on the buckle strap at the back attached to the hitch . Have never seen anyone tie a canoe on more quickly or easier than me and Kevin continues to prove that point . PS Have a rack but prefer to remove the cross pieces and use foam blocks .
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
Pro Tip - if you put a twist in your straps before tightening them down - it reduces the road noise. Flat straps will whine as they vibrate back and forth. A twist or two eliminates that vibration / high pitched noise.
Thanks. Great tip. Tried it out today.
It also helps to feed the strap through a pool noodle… those things are right below duct tape and wd40 for multitasking solutions.
Thanks Kevin, The first thing that I do with a new vehicle is to attach a couple of loops of cord under the rear bumper and I use them to run the rear canoe cords through. They stay on year-round and are less abrasive on the cords than around metal parts under the bumper. I would also remove the D-rings from the front straps and simply run your cord through the straps. I winced everytime I heard the rings hit your fenders!
Same here for the wincing 😲
Because tying cord to a webbing loop will fail eventually. If the connection point move it will saw back and forth fraying the material. Use a metal loop or biner to join them instead.
@@bonpecheur4565 plus 1 for wincing.
You blew my mind with the nylon straps bolted under the hood. You have solved my dilemma!
Glad to help.
Thanks for the awesome tip of under the hood. we will be using that idea.
Some people forget that last and most critical step, which is shaking it and saying "that thing ain't going anywhere." It is the most common rookie mistake.
I tell you this funny tale just so you can laugh. I took a very long canoe trip a few years ago,,, 3 months,, 1,300 miles. But,, but I left my truck all the way back where? The solution was a rented car and a one way rental. It was a Ford Fusion,, with a 20 foot expedition canoe on the roof. The canoe was 6 or 7 feet longer than the car and just as wide,, and with rocker,, the bow of the canoe well V'ed down to the front and rear,,, I drove the more than 1,000 miles back to my truck laying sideways on the center console to be able to see out under the bow of the boat. It worked ! But it did look pretty funny with this giant canoe on this little car. I think had you flipped the rig over and into the river,, the canoe could have carried the car just as easily.
Definitely sounds awkward but thanks for the morning chuckle with my coffee. I can almost visualise it because I had an 18 footer on my wife's crosstrek but it was only an hours drive to our route.
I know Im pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released series online ?
@Dariel Boston i would suggest flixzone. You can find it by googling :)
@Colton Genesis Yup, I've been using Flixzone for years myself =)
@Colton Genesis thanks, signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it!
Crazy Kevin, the Canuck! Thanks for the ideas! Solid and quick tie down! Happy paddles!
Two separate ropes in the front, one for each side of the car, provides much more stability in winds and when driving at high speeds. The single rope method shown in this video has less ability to resist wind loading from the side and is more likely to lead to "wobble" as the front of the canoe starts to slowly slide side to side. This wobble happens because the horizontal resistance required to resist the wind is being provided by the belly straps. The straps tend not to be able to handle this type of wind loading adequately. When I first started transporting my canoe, I used only a single rope in the front and had this happen when driving faster than 50 mph (80 kph). These days I go along at up to 80 mph (130 kph) on the highway driving across the wind swept prairie with no problem. You get some improvement by using two ropes in the back too, although the impact is less compared to using two ropes in the front. Obviously Kevin uses the single rope method successfully and probably has for many years - different strokes for different folks (no paddling pun intended).
I have a Yakama rack and I stick a piece of pipe(smaller than the main pipe)into the back pipe,that way it sticks out past the side of the car.Yakama will sell you a pipe that lives inside that back pipe(for $70+)but mine lives in the back with the paddles.
Man that’s really an interesting way to do it. I use two ratchet straps across the canoe and over the rack. Never had a problem with it falling off or getting lose but your way seems safer lol
I've been using the same truckers knot that someone tied for me for 3 years. Now I shall try to do it myself. Thanks!
Very well done. Thanks for sharing. 👊🏼 from Jasper AB. Take care.
"I take it off exact opposite" - I love it! Lovin your videos
I threaded ratchet straps through pool noodles. It's awesome, doesn't slip and it doesn't scuff my canoe. Also replaced the hooks with carabiners
You need to be a bit more careful with the ratchet straps, they are strong enough that if you overdo it, and you have a light weight canoe, you could crack it.
For my bow and stern, I just run lines from the bow and stern back to my rack, and synch them down tight. In strong side winds, I think your way may be better. Good information, be well my friend.
I do similar as you and attach to center thwart of Canoe its not going anywhere.
Yep, that's how I do it, only with a bit more grunting and a pep talk to myself before I get the first end up.
...I solo a 17' aluminum Grumman.
.......and it's really motivating me to build a cedar pack boat lol.
Grumman? Ya, I'd grunt to. LOL
Permanently bolting the loops under the hood!? You're a freakin' genius!
I felt the same way when I first did it LOL
That method works nice for a vehicle without a trunk sticking out like you have..however I have a corolla and its much more difficult trying to slide the canoe up without damaging the car.
You did the most important thing, but failed to mention it... no tie down is secure without giving it a yank and saying "That ain't going nowhere!".
Clarification: in some states, it is illegal to carry items (including boats) on top of a vehicle that are wider than the widest part of the vehicle measured from the outside of the side mirrors. I suspect this law is rarely enforced except when it is quite obvious that the load is simply too wide.
I get it. Thanks. Now, my next question: Which states? Maybe I won't go there.
I can see a regulation on not exceeding a specific width (8 or 8 1/2 feet in most states as far as I know), but a Sprinter van has way greater width than a 1970s Honda Civic. Those are extremes and maybe two canoes on a Civic is unlikely, but two on a Forester (or Rav4 or CR-V) doesn't seem unreasonable.
Great video and a very solid setup.
Thank you Kevin. I am sure many will benefit from this video!
Awesome, and it works, thanks!....but how do you get the canoe over your head in the first place.
Here's one way:
ruclips.net/video/wCXgHduDsLQ/видео.html
However, I've not tried that method, although I know balancing a heavy canoe on one end is quite difficult.
I have a 16' 72 lb. Chief tandom that I've been cartopping and paddling for nearly 20 years. It has two thwarts in the middle; I balance the canoe on my shoulders using the thwart that's slightly closer to center, because using the other thwart makes the front end much too heavy, which is bad news for trying to walk forward. To get it on my shoulders, I start with the canoe right side up on the ground. I stand to one side at the center, grip the gunnel, pick up that side, bend at my knees, and rest the bottom of the hull on my thighs. If the thwart I'm using as a yoke is to my right, I grip the near end of that thwart and the far end of the other thwart. Then I roll the canoe across my thighs to get some momentum, which helps me get it over my head and onto my shoulders.
These videos - ruclips.net/video/Ku5Apd8G84Y/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/ObZRodlP27E/видео.html - are close to my method; the main difference is I don't have an actual yoke in the middle, so the routine is a bit different. But you can see how each one lifts the canoe onto her thighs and then her shoulders. For the most part, I'm doing the same thing. Once you watch these videos, I'm sure you'll see even more in the suggested sidebar.
REMEMBER: as all videos have instructed, do not use your back. I hurt mine while moving into my house, well before I purchased my canoe. But I've never hurt my back lifting the canoe using this method, because I'm not using my back to do so.
I've never found that it's necessary to put that much tension on front and back tie downs. In fact there are many canoe hull materials that can be damaged by overtightening.
There are a few types of "truckers hitches" .... how is this one for untying? I really like the bowline on a bite for the truckers hitch never slips and easy to untie. The fender bolt straps are a sweet set up. I also like foam blocks under the gunwales as it helps cushion the boat and lessens the chance of the boat slipping side way.
What's the name of your extending roof rack? Thanks!
I have no idea if you are still reading comments. Do I need to be concerned at all in scratching my canoe (the gunnels) when rolling over the bars? I just assumed it would scratch, but maybe it doesn't?
Same! Always quality!
Best wishes!
Would that work the same way without the shoulder holder in the middle of canoe? Clearly you have the physics right to get it on the roof. Also I wouldn’t waste your time with the truckers hitch for the front in the back you can just get single rope ratchet ties
Hey thanks for the tips it was very helpful
Awesome. Glad to help.
I started to question why we need ties on the front and back end of the canoe as most vehicles today have no place to tie the rope. I came to the conclusion that if the rack is secure to the vehicle then it's fine to tie the canoe just to the rack. I use ropes over the top of the canoe and tied to both racks. As an extra measure I may tie a rope from the front of the canoe to the front rack and the same with the back of the canoe to the rear rack. This is to stop the canoe from sliding forward or backward if by chance the ropes over the top became loose. However, I would like to see cars come with attachment points below each bumper like in the good old days.
It might depend on your canoe, and how flexible it is. I've gone with the front rope too lose, and even then, the canoe started to bend more than I would like, but we have an ultra light Kevlar. I also just like the idea that everything you are hauling should be attached through two different systems, in case one fails. If it was tied down, and one of the straps failed, I think it would be ok, but if you had just the two straps, and one failed, while unlikely, would be pretty bad if you were going highway speeds.
Where are you tying on the back? I have a forester as well but can’t find anywhere in the back to tie down
Remember. Put 1 twist in ratchet strap. No awful wind noise. Nice little vid. Cheers
That's a great tip. Thanks
Never use ratchet straps. Use normal cam straps.
awesome video, very helpful!
Good straightforward tutorial. I've been using the truckers knot for 40 years on all types of tie downs. Place permanent looped para-chord around the frame under the hood of my wife's Crosstrek but I like your idea better but would add some tape to the metal rings.
I'm assuming the straps across the top are looped around the racks on the driver side?
I use the trucker's hitch also. My normal vehicle is an F-150 I use a pair of simple bent tube frames in the ladder rack holes,, but the difference is,, On every truck I have owned for 45 years now, I install 4 hole hollow base, stainless boat cleats, 6 or 8 inch. I use stainless screws and marine 3M 5200... then nylon braided 1/4 to 3/8 inch line (25 foot lengths max.) An over hand or perfection loop in one end and either the truckers hitch , or just a cleat hitch. I can tie a canoe or a ladder on in seconds. The reason for the 25 foot max length on the line. A 24 foot piece will pick up and layout smooth and quick,, a 27 foot piece of the same line, you will have to untangle and take an accidental knot out every time you pick it up. Could not tell you why, makes no sense, something about line topology,, the difference occurs between 25 and 26 foot lengths of 1/4 or 5/16 line. Complete mystery to me, but a 27 foot or longer piece will double your tie down time.
Another trick you may want to use. The rear seat, seat-belts. Open the rear door of a passenger vehicle, slide the buckle down to keep it out of the way, take the belt to full extension, lift toward the top of the car, and then close the door. Most autos you will finish with a perfectly mounted and extremely strong attachment point 8 inches above the roof at the midline of the canoe. I use a large vinyl covered hook, or a large beener on the ends of the rachet or cam strap to connect across the top. The best tie down on the entire auto.
Kinda painful watching the way the stern torqued to the left when Kevin honked on the rear tie-down. Seems as though vertical force would be better. Wonder if this tie down scheme might result in a bent boat that tracks in circles after a long drive in hot sun
Not sure if that's an issue. I've tied my boat down like this for over 35 years and never had that issue. Maybe it went left on the back tie -down because I didn't have the front tie down on yet - and I didn't put my left brackets in place on the rack. I used to do that but I found it wasn't worth it.
Can you slowly show your knots?
I bought Toyota Sienna crossbars, they don't stick out. My canoe is 38" wide and the bars are less. Like 36 max. Dang.
Hey Kevin, what is the brand of the bars you are using?
Nice tutorial Kev!
Clarifying for viewers on the truckers hitch: He said "you will use this KNOT a lot" not "you will use this NOT a lot" lolol. Also Kevin what do you use as a bailer? Would love a basic canoe equipment tutorial!
I noticed the same when I re-watched it LOL. I now use Paddle Canada's throw rope and bailer - light weight and approved. Not sure it's the best...and certainly worth a review. Thanks.
I noticed it too, but I was slow to get it! :D
I may have missed it but what is the name of that rack for 2 canoes? Thanks
Hi Kevin. I appreciate all you do: videos, books, etc. I just bought a canoe and I need a roof rack that can carry two canoes. What make and model is your roof rack and where did you buy it?
My double carrier is a Yakima - got it at Nova Craft's London Paddle Shop www.londonspaddleshop.com/product/yakima-keelover/
Not good strapping--you should have the rear of canoe tied at the smaller width of the canoe and I would wrap rope/tied down around the canoe's inside cross bar; the front end would also be tied with rope looped/wrapped around canoe's inside cross bar and at the smaller width; I would do the same for the other side. Your way of tying is for short distance, none long highway trips.
The key is not to hurt your back while you’re walking with it !what’s the technique there? Once it’s leaning on car- piece of cake.
To protect the paint at the first step invest in a pool noodle!
Yes. They work. Good suggestion.
How many pounds is your rope rated? Do you think 90 is adequate? Thx mate.
Good question. Don't use cheap rope. It will rot and eventually snap. Medium size paracord should be okay though.
If only I could lift and carry my canoe the way you do! I tried but between the weight of the canoe and the wide beam (recreational canoe for rowing as well as paddling) and not having the same degree of upper body strength (yes, I'm a woman and no, I'm not a body builder!), it's just not happening. Any recommendations? I can manage the rest once the canoe is on top of the vehicle. My last "canoe car" had a roof rack. This one does not.
To lift the canoe, try the lean-to method - see this video at 2:29 ruclips.net/video/tGOeG5lEZjQ/видео.html
a double-canoe roof rack, sounds very canadian.
Why not cut your straps to the correct length to avoid flapping and damage to your car’s finish? In the US many states have rules about over hang. A red flag is required if anything over hangs two feet or more, and items attached to the roof cannot go beyond the rear view mirrors. If you tie the bow and stern lines to the canoe (not just loop the line through), the canoe cannot slide to the right or left. Finally, I always tie a stop line from inside the canoe to the rear carrier to avoid having the boat slide forward in an emergency stop. I’ve damaged both canoes and cars by being casual about mounting canoes to the vehicle.
Can you clarify "...cannot go beyond the rear view mirrors."? Rear view mirrors are a single point. One way or the other, items on the roof will be beyond the mirrors.
@@wdtaut5650he meant side-way, obviously. You don't want your roof load to get wider than your vehicle width, defined by your rear-view mirrors.
You may want to cover up your license plate, think of all those hordes of fans that will come flocking to your door ;)
I tried. I spent a few hours learning how. And then I realized the blur thing couldn't keep to the plate itself. It was a real mess and I gave up.
@@TheHappyCamper Well, in the long run... more people? More Whiskey fireside chats! lol
I was thinking same thing about his license plate.
Kevin...any chance you can provide the make and model of the rack you’re using on your vehicle?
They are Yakima - I got them quite a few years ago at London Paddle www.londonspaddleshop.com/
They've definitely lasted me forever.
where can we get the hood loop in ontario- please
I believe London Paddle Shop has them.
@@TheHappyCamper thanks. !!!
Good stuff Kevin, I understand.too, that there is tremendous wind flow into the canoe at highway speed from the deflection off the windshield, so another good reason for tying down the ends. Question , when in Scotland you used a 15 foot prospector and I believe you own a 16 footer in Canada. Was it more enjoyable and lively to use a 15 footer.. would that be better for someone who paddles alone most of the time?. Thanks..
A 15 ft solo prospector would be better for solo - but if you can only afford to have one boat and you'll be doing both tandem and solo, then the 16 is the way to go.
@@TheHappyCamper Thanks, is there any great speed advantage? Thanks for the quick reply. Really loved watching the Spey trip..
@@newlife155 Not a great amount. But some.
@@alexs3447 Thanks Alex, I have a Nova 16 ft prospector in Tuff Stuff, I would like to try one like yours one day..
@@newlife155 I have never paddled a tough stuff layup. But i have given my ultra-light lay up a good beating over the decades.My only upgrade has been 3-4 layers of woven fiberglass cloth as skid plates . Mainly to absorb wear at put ins and take outs . I bought it with no gelcoat but have painted it a few times with a 2 part paint.Also replaced the ash gunnels twice .This thing portages like a dream with just one finger needed to balance/steady the canoe .
Where can I find those rails or something similar?
Could you please provide the brand of those rails atleast? Thanks.
@@Emross92 I got mine at London Paddle Shop. www.londonspaddleshop.com/product/quicklash-t-style-hood-loops/
@@TheHappyCamper ok. Can you tell me the brand of the cross rails?
@@Emross92 Yakima
Hmmm too much hassle for my liking . Recently i drive an 07 escape with nothing in the back to tie to except the spare tire rim. Suppose that would work but i bought a hitch for $200 that attaches with 4 bolts so what the heck. Up front i have tie down tabs which you could thread rope through but i drilled holes for 5/16 eye bolts which i cut open about 3/8'' . This allows me to slip in a loop. I attach those first then push the canoe back ( i have lengths pre tied to the bow eye bolt and do not monkey with these ropes on the trip) to put tension on the ropes . At the back i have a strap attached to a seat with the same slip buckle you are using . You pull on it to tighten and to get more leverage pull down on the canoe at the same time . In the middle i tie one rope through the back doors to the handles above the doors and then close the doors . Never need to tie a single knot and everything is as tight as you want . If things loosen, just push the canoe back at the front or pull back from the rear and take up the slack by pulling on the buckle strap at the back attached to the hitch . Have never seen anyone tie a canoe on more quickly or easier than me and Kevin continues to prove that point .
PS Have a rack but prefer to remove the cross pieces and use foam blocks .
You didn't show how to lift it!!!!!!??
This video shows that. ruclips.net/video/tGOeG5lEZjQ/видео.html
Nor say how heavy it was.