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My aluminum plate is a true 12"x24" plate. For the attachment of the 2020 extrusion to 8080 extrusion I used two 90 deg brackets like this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H19M9VA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Not sure if your casters are the same as mine. For me I was able to line up two holes with the slot in the extrusion and bolt it to the frame, the other two holes didn't line up with the slot in the extrusion. But that works for me to roll it around my garage, this is not meant to roll on a rough surface like a driveway or something like that.

@@alaskajoe61 Thank you I appreciate the quick answer and help. So yes the wheels weren't lining up and I was going to do the same thing as you did, I ordered the 90 degree L brackets thank you for that explanation. Went today to buy M6 and M5 bolts and nuts as the M8 kit wasn't going through the wheels. The Cust Service at AD was nice but not helpful on the 12x24 aluminum sheet. I ordered what I searched which was a 12x24 plate but received a 9x21 inch piece of aluminum. I will call them Friday and try to resolve that. My build will have 2 batteries, A inside power pro ESS and a Ruixu lithi 2-16 14.3 kwh and 16 kwh respectively so 30.3 kwh of storage for $6288.00 $207.53 a kilowatt

I contacted Signature Solar tech support. Currently there is no way to limit either AC input, Generator, or even Bypass power. I requested that they send a feature request to EG4 to allow these limits. The more people that request features increases the chance that EG4 will implement them sooner. A 6000xp with it's 25 amp inverter should at the minimum allow a lower Bypass; 25 amp versus 50 amp. Even better would be to limit AC and/or Generator input to 25 amp. Best would be an option to allow the user to set their own limit possibly between 10 and 50 amps. I didn't think about requesting the ability to disable bypass mode. I can see a single 6000xp were you want to limit the AC input to 40 amp (80% of the maximum of a 50 amp breaker; considered a safe limit). I can also see a limit of 25 amp. And a lower limit becomes useful with multiple 6000xp. With two 6000xp you may want a 20 amp limit so that the total is 40 amp. EG4 recommends > 10kw generator for a single 6000xp. This us 41.67 amp, not enough for the 50 amp bypass (but likely enough for most people). Except for two 6000xp they recommend a > 15 kw generator. This is 62.5 amp, nowhere enough for the 100 amp Bypass. This means if you use the recommended size generator you first have to calculate the estimated AC load, plus a buffer, then limit the charging to not exceed the generator capability. Plus is you have loads the have high starting current, you may have to reduce charging even more. Generators are rated with peak power and running power. If you have a large AC or multiple AC units the compressor starting power (minus running power) may be more than the generator's difference between peak and running power. Then to add to the confusion, the setting for battery charging is DC amp. This means you must decide how many AC amps that you can use in bypass mode then multiply by 240vac to get power in Watts, then divide by charging volts to get charging DC amps, and finally adjust for effeciency. Even worse if your batteries are low the charging volts will be significantly lower than the charging volts that you set. This will result in different charging amps when the batteries are low versus when they are nearly full. As an example, your expected maximum AC load is 4000 Watts, which is 16.67 amps at 240vac. You decide to add 20% as a buffer which brings the AC load to 4800 Watts which is 20 amps at 240vac. You want to limit total input AC to 40 amps (on a 50 amp breaker). This allows another 4800 Watts for battery charging. If you use 54v to charge this would allow 88.9 amps DC. The claimed battery charging efficiency is 93%. This will lower your charging setting to 82.7 amps. But to be safe, you lower the maximum charging current to 80 amps, which is 4320 Watts charging, 4645 Watts consumption. This safely puts you under 40 amp 240vac input from the 50 amp breaker. You are happy! Except when evening comes and the AC unit(s) aren't running suddenly you AC load goes from 4000-4800 Watts to perhaps 1000-1800 Watts (with maybe short periods of increased usage, say your 1000w microwave). In this case your 6000xp doesn't say "I can charge the batteries faster!". You will still limit charging the batteries to 80 amp DC unless you manually change the DC charging amps and hope that you remember to lower it again before the AC unit(s) kick back on. If there was a setting to limit the AC input to 40 amps via a setting then if the 6000xp went into Bypass mode it will be limited to 40 amps, if your load is less then the rest could be used to charge the batteries up to a maximum of your charging limit. Everything would be automatic. If your AC load exceeds the maximum AC input then the 6000xp would fault to protect itself. A single 6000xp is relatively simple. It gets really complicated if you parallel multiple 6000xp's. The 50 amp Bypass mode is per 6000xp. 2 units is 100 amps (the old standard size house service) 3 units is 150 amps 4 units is 200 amps (the new standard size house service). 5 units is 250 amps etc This means that most older houses can only supply two 6000xp's assuming and newer houses can only supply four 6000xp's; assuming no other loads. Lets say you want to design a solar system to supply your old house. If you have a newer house you likely have 240vac 200 amp service from the electric company. This limits you to a maximum of four 6000xp's which can supply up to a combined 240vac 100 amps. For many people this is likely sufficient for now. But as you are forced into using more electricity (replacing natural gas stove, water heater, clothes dryer and furnace) and needing to charge at least 1 electric car you will often exceed 100 amps. Except to increase the number of 6000xp's you also need either to increase the service from the electric company which is a large cost OR configure only four 6000xp's with AC input, with additional 6000xp's off-grid. The second option has another issue that is unclear. The manual says all 6000xp's must be connected to your generator. The manual does NOT specify this for the AC input, but it's reasonable that if the generator requires it so does the AC input. EG4 needs to clarify this. If all 6000xp's must be connected to the AC input then you would need 2 seperate 6000xp systems, one connected to the grid and the other off-grid. Each system would have it's own bank of 6000xp's, it's own batteries, and it's own PV. Though you could cross charge the battery banks utilizing EG4 chargevertors. I'm not sure if both banks of 6000xp's can supply a single distribution box (if they will sync their AC outputs). If not then you would need another distribution box. The only other solution is to charge the batteries with multiple EG4 chargevertors, one per 240vac 30 amps of service (or lower charging per unit using 240vac 25 amps). This would be 3 or 4 units for 100 amp service or 6 or 8 units for 200 amp service. This adds several thousand dollars of cost and the chargevertors do not have remote reporting or control. You also can currently only have comms between your batteries and either the 6000xp's or the chargevertor. Most people will likely decide that comms to the 6000xp is more important, meaning that the chargevertors must charge based on voltage not SOC. All of this could be quickly resolved by the ability to limit AC input current. If you have three 6000xp's connected to 100 amp service you could limit them to 33 amps each (instead of the 50 amps currently) if you have four 6000xp connected to 100 amp service you could limit them to 25 amps each. If you have two 6000xp's connected to 50 amp service you could limit the input to 25 amp (or 20 amp with consequences). Obviously these limits will also limit the available current for charging. There are likely many people who love the 50 amp bypass mode. Maybe your house has 200 amp service and you only need to supply up to 100 amps to your house. Being able to supply the full 100 amps to the house while having 22,320 Watts available to quickly charge a large battery bank on cloudy days or in order to take advantage of variable electric rates is awesome.

I personally believe a large percentage of 6000xp users would not only benefit from input limits but love them. I had originally added a 120vac 30 amp circuit for my previous RV. When I purchased the house it had a 240vac 30 amp circuit for a generator. We are planning on selling the house in a few months so I don't see a reason to buy a new 50 amp breaker and upgrade the wiring; especially considering that I have two 6000xp's in my RV which would need two 50 amp breakers. My experience with the 240vac 30 amp breaker is that if I'm close to 30 amps for about an hour the breaker will trip. This means that I have to limit myself to 27-28 amps (6480-6720 Watts), or 13.5-14 amps (3240-3360 Watts) per 6000xp. My base load plus the smaller AC uses about 1800 Watts while the base loads plus the larger AC is about 2000 Watts. The base loads with both AC units running is around 3500-3800 Watts. If the 6000xp's decide to go into Bypass with both AC units running there is nothing left to charge the batteries (I'm fine with this) but a single AC allows for Bypass and charging the batteries. I currently am configured to charge using about 3800 Watts, which allows running the smaller AC unit. The only time I run the AC at home is on hot days when I'll be working inside. This means that most of the time I could charge at 6400 Watts instead of 4800 Watts. With an AC input limit this would be automatic. I'd set both 6000xp's a limit of 13.5 or 14 amps. Magically I could run one or both AC units and the 6000xp would charge the batteries with what is available. If I don't run the AC units then the batteries would automatically charge faster. If EG4 gave us the ability to configure charging amps for each of the 3 AC start/stop times then I could have a work around. Maybe 0 amps charging from 11 am to 6 pm, from 10 pm to 6 am full charging (because the AC units are both off), from 6 am to 11 am and 6 pm to 10 pm allow charging based on the larger AC unit running. It wouldn't be perfect and I'd need to change the settings when camping and connected to 240vac 50 amp service and then remember to switch it back when at home. I know someone will say "just use an EG4 chargevertor". I have a version 2 and it's great for using a small generator. Remember that I can only communicate with batteries with either the 6000xp's or chargevertor. It makes more sense to connect the 6000xp's. This means the chargevertor doesn't have battery SOC and the chargevertor doesn't have remote control nor remote monitoring. This means changing the charging amps if its hooked to the generator, 120vac 30 amp service or 240vac 30/50 amp service. This requires going into the RV basement. It would be nice if the EG4 chargevertor integrated with the EG4 6000xp (and other EG4 inverter systems like the 12k and 18k). If you could plug the chargvertor comm into the 6000xp and the 6000xp relayed battery SOC and configuration data while the chargevertor sent the 6000xp charging data so that we could use the EG4 app or webpage to update chargevertor settings and monitor charge amps/Watts and historical data it would be great. Especially if you could parallel the chargevetors with comms to a 6000xp. Heck I'd get a 2nd chargevertor if that was possible.

@@noyjr9492 with this extrusion you can get different lengths. So yes you could

it is built to last, $500 was my estimation but with everything more like $800 to 1000

I guess I'm going to jail then 😂

Incorrect. The 6000XP does not feed to the grid. It can't. Therefore, it is no more illegal than plugging in a lamp your kid made in science class, or your vacuume cleaner that isn't ul9540 certified. That certification is only required for grid tied inverters that send power TO the grid.

It is grounded via the 50 amp plug from my service panel.

It depends how small the solar generation is. There is a minimum needed to begin charging. I think it is on the order of 100-200 watts being generated to begin charging. There is a loss going from solar generated power to battery changing power. If I have 200 watts on my panels, maybe because it is early morning or rain clouds, it may only charge the battery with 30 watts or something along those lines. It will take forever at that rate to charge. The bypass mode will stay in effect until the panels charge the battery to +10% of what your cutoff setting is, so in my case the battery needs to get to 40% before it switches from bypass to battery power for the loads.

Thanks for the compliment about the build. I am pretty happy with it. I have the neutral-ground bond disabled on the inverter. The main service panel where the utility feed comes in is the only location where the neutral and ground are bonded. All my other panels in the house are not bonded. There are two ways my inverter system stays bonded: 1) through the 50 amp grid plug as you mentioned. 2) the output of my inverter system, the 30 amp plug, connects to my critical load panel in the house via a generator interlocked backfed breaker. That critical load panel's ground and neutral lines goes back to the main service panel which is bonded. Through the 30 amp plug the ground and neutral lines do not get interrupted if the backfed breaker is shut off. The ground and neutral lines on this 30 amp connection are screwed to their respective bus bars in the critical load panel. Just to restate, the critical load panel does not have the ground and neutral bonded in that panel, it is bonded back at the main service panel. If you look at 1:46 of my video I am showing the generator inlet plug on the wall. It has the required label (required by my locality) specifying that it must be a floating neutral system that is plugged into that plug. It all depends how it is set up in the panel and how you switch from grid to the generator. Since I am using a backfed breaker method in the critical load panel, only the hots get disconnected. Had I used a generator transfer switch, those can disconnect both the hot and neutral, in that case it would be a different setup. If I was to disconnect the inverter from the 50 amp plug and the 30 amp plug and use the inverter and battery as a stand alone power source, then I would need to enable neutral-ground bond in setting 26.

@@alaskajoe61 I looked back at 1:46 and can confirm you definitely have the right labeling. Can you estimate how much the extrusion set you back by itself? Looked like around 600-800 by my guestimations. I may make a version using 4x4's instead just based off the affordability of wood.

@@stephenfuller2936 I don't know exactly the cost of all the extrusion I purchased but I would also guess in the range you estimated.

buying one of these soon let's try to keep it quiet til after I get the 2 I need and want to run my home, thanks. lol, but serious

Will prowse does it, diy solar fun with Ray loveless does it and more with his.

@@d.pollard5962 They've never started a 6kW inductive load on video. 6kW is an 8 horsepower load. In fact, this inverter even failed to start Ray Loveless' home's AC unit without grid assist. I've even asked SS month's ago to create a video with their 6KW inverter starting an 8 HP motor and they haven't done it either.

Sounds like you need an SQ grundfos well pump with soft start.

@@branch_ranch Grundfos pumps are way too expensive.

@@quickquote1568 East Texas Homestead just did a video of one of his 3 doing a well pump. I knew I had seen it, sorry I mentioned ones that did not cover your specific issue. I thought those would give some info and you could ask them for more guidance. Hope that helps.

Yes that would be possible but you would want longer members at the bottom instead of the 2x 610mm length I used

In the video at 5:22 to 5:34 I show the cross members that hold the battery and the inverter.

Thank you very much. I've watched most of your videos. It was your RUclipss on the 6000XP and the PowerPro battery videos that got me thinking about this project. Thank you!

No thanks. We prefer what's in the video..

I just followed the instruction on which port to connect, the dip switch configuration and make sure the battery and inverter were configured for lux battery

Thank you! I had a little trouble but managed to get it done and working@@alaskajoe61

The size of cart I made does not really have enough room for a battery on the back side. However, if you order your rails at the bottom a bit longer you could certainly fit two batteries on it. The inverter was $1400, the battery $4000. All the extrusions, breaker panel, etc was roughly on the order $800-1000

I think that battery is now 3700 the last time I checked.

Where did you buy your solar panels?