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The 200 v6 is the same engine block as the 250, it just has lower lift on the cams (less airflow) and less fuel injected making only 200hp. Starting somewhere around 2010 or so they started using the 150/175 4cyl block to make 200hp. It has plenty of displacement to make 200, so to save weight they switched to that engine block. The v6 200s are good, but a little heavy for the power they make. The inline 4 motors save about 60lbs and run great. If I had a choice between them it would be the 4cyl. It’s a wonderful smooth running and quiet powerhouse.

@@whatszackdoing witch is Better for u for a rib?

Huh?

The motor may be slightly too high causing it to porpoise. Drop it one hole and give it a try. Check to see if that stops and if you have better engagement with the water while turning

They are both incredibly smooth. The 200, like every inline 4 needs a balance shaft to be smooth, and it really really is. I can barely hear the engine at idle and have to grab the railing of my boat to feel any vibration. The V6 doesn’t need a balance shaft for any imbalance unlike most 90 degree V6 engines that have a bit of shake (all American automotive V6s, Yamaha and Honda V6s etc. basically everyone else makes a 90 degree block. Which makes the crank journals and piston rods shake the engine a bit. Suzuki makes their V6 a 55 degree engine, which runs smoother than 90 degree blocks and can rev higher safely because of that smoothness. I love both engines. My 200 does well for everything I need, and sure I may buy a 250ss some day… But I am satisfied. Running 44-46 depending on conditions with a tri-toon is just fine. If your boat is rated for 250 I suggest going that route

Thanks!

It would pick up a little speed, but the best gain is how little it slows down with a heavy load compared to a pontoon. The extra buoyancy helps keep it on top of the water

I’d say give it a try! Lift in the back helps so much.

@@whatszackdoing Nah. I will pass the offer. No strakes for me. Thanks! 😀 Maybe I would install a hydrofoil on the outboard. Nothing more! I do not want to add any drag or weight. My plan is actually to go electric. That's why I purchased a pontoon with only a 50 HP Mercury. I do not want to use it. Or maybe I use it to push the pontoon while another electric motor, in front, is pulling. By trimming the 2 motors I can achieve any sitting I want. I will not go on plane but I won't pay too much on gasoline either. I purchased a few solar panels, almost 2Kwh worth, and I'm going to install them this winter. I want to slide on the water in silence. Magic!

Fly by wire is magic. Very very cool. Shifts really nice… but will run about 2-3k more for the engine and fancy controls. I’m running cable to save $

Cool, kinda what I thought..thanks.

I did. Wanted it very reinforced

Very well! I did have one part that the tape got messed up from a year of sun exposure. The rest of it is still flexible, pliable and working very well. I’m getting more tape to repair that one spot and keeping it in shade or covered when not in use

Well gosh! Much thanks

Powered jack plate coming soon!

@@whatszackdoing I want to see that one. Right now I'm penalized when the pontoon is empty on front. If I add weight on front the rear is coming out of water. So, I have the same speed weight or no weight. But that's by design, I guess. I have a 20 ft Legend Transporter pontoon. It's made to have a load on front. However, if I manage to lift the rear (most likely with a pair a rear-end hydrofins, only the end ones), I might be able to get more from my 50 HP BigFoot Mercury. Right now I only get 15-18mph. I'm barely reaching (if I'm lucky) 5000 rpm. If I could get past of 5500 rpm, I could switch to a faster propeller, from 14 x 10P now to 14 x 11P. However, I'm a bit concerned about jack plates. The cavitation plate should be at the same level (aligned) with the transom bottom. If it's lower, we get a drag when we trim the engine. If it's upper the cavitation plate is useless. The motor sitting is not something we should mess with. The cavitation plate must act like a trim tab. When we trim the motor down, the water should come from below and lift the motor. If it comes from above (when we trim up), and push the motor down, it's going to be a drag. In this later situation having a hydrofoil on the outboard makes things much worse. Better remove it! I would rather have a bracket that allows me to trim down the motor a bit more - so that I get more lift - than having a jack plate. But none of them are necessary. I would keep it "factory installed".

Mostly just through propping. One thing to check though is to make sure it’s rigged properly to get full throttle. With the engine off set the control to full throttle. Remove the cowling and remove the throttle cable’s cotter pin (it’s the upper cable, the lower cable is the shifter) Now lift the cable end and move the throttle lever manually. Is the cable set up to push the throttle all the way open? I see new and used boats rigged incorrectly all of the time. The torque and horsepower can be down 20-30 percent sometimes

@@whatszackdoing many thanks for this reply. I have fly-by-wire on this motor. So, do your suggestions still apply? If not, is there anything related to fly-by-wire than can be checked for similar settings? Cameron

@@Camh1968 Nice to have the SPC! The cable adjustment suggestion doesn’t apply, but a Suzuki shop can make sure your control is calibrated all the way and check throttle position via their computer. What kind of boat is your motor on? Did it come rigged from the factory or is it a repower?

@@whatszackdoing thank you. Purchased brand new per order in July last year as a complete hull/motor supply. No re-power. The hull is an aluminium plate fishing boat cuddy offshore. So, when I ask the Suzuki dealer workshop to check/adjust via computer, is there a way to check it has been done? I just want to satisfy myself I have optimal performance utilised and not just relying on the dealer’s word…

Quite true! Maybe we should just rivet aluminum plate to the bottom and just get it over with!

That is a good idea!

For sure. I run on lake Ouchita, a pretty large lake (roughly 22 miles across as the bird flies). The water can get quite tall when the wind is out of the east or west, so when it is up I slow down to prevent problems. Eventually I will be adding smaller strakes to the outside pontoons and that may take a little stress off the big ones in this video. If cracks develop I’ll plate and tig up those spots. Thanks for watching! Just installed a hydraulic jack plate and will post a video on that!

Thanks! The 175 is very impressive. The 150-200 has the same engine block. In the U.S the 175 and 200 have VVT and the 150 rarely does. The 150 is no slouch, but you will notice quite a lot of help on the low end with the VVT on the higher powered engines. And like you said on a tri-toon the 200 has 1-2 mph extra. On a planing hull you would see 3-5 mph more. If I were choosing on a new boat or re-power I would definitely take the 200, but if I was looking at a boat I just loved and it had the 175 I would buy it. You wouldn’t be disappointed

I appreciate the info. I agree the 200 sounds like the way to go. Especially after seeing your test videos. On a side note, do you know whether the keyless start system will work on the mechanical 200 with the smg4 gauge? If so have you ever installed one? The main question I have is what all comes with the keyless kit? I see the module, wiring, and 2 fobs. Is the pushbutton start switch and tether extra? No info on the Suzuki site at all. Thanks again for all the good content!

It goes pretty good!

It has shot up in cost! Crazy expensive

Hmmm. May have a fouled spark plug. Generally the Suzuki engines are extremely smooth running

The two pontoons in the middle were from another boat. His boat started its life with just 2 pontoons. He removed the engine and transom, added the middle tubes, then built a transom and bam. Quad-toon!

He’s got it all cleaned out and moved to his new slip. Soon we want to post an update!

I would probably try melting the chewed up area with a heat gun a bit. It may help keep it from being weak at the surface!

Very cool! Have the pontoon mounted yet?

That is the stainless Suzuki Watergrip 16x21.5. I found out my tach was inaccurate, so I replaced it and was lugging the engine a bit. I have a 16x20 watergrip on it now. It over-revs slightly with a light load, but is perfect when loaded for a trip

Hopefully this season I will be adding the outside ones as well. The material I had worked out to make those big strakes just right. It’s expensive material so using what I have. Now I have some thinner material that I can have bent into some 3.5” strakes for the outside pontoons, so I will probably burn those on this winter

Can you send me a picture of the switch and set up?

I figured it out from watching an Indian guy’s channel. I didn’t know what he was saying, but he had a 2 prong switch. I saw he connected both positive to the switch and the ground went straight to the battery. I was putting the ground on one prong and positive on the other. Now looking at this again I realize you hooked both positive to the prong and negative went straight to battery. The black wire of was throwing me off having me think it was the negative

If you watch my “lifting strakes” video it kinda shows the process of removing and adding a pontoon. It’s mostly just some annoying overhead work, but not super technical. You building a work barge/pontoon?

Heck yeah. We run a 60 tiller on our shop fishing boat. They are so good. Just a pleasure to run

I would love to try that. What a ride that would be!

Greetings from Arkansas, US! Thanks so much for the suggestion. It is very nice to have this kind of involvement from viewers, that way I know which direction to go helping folks. I will definitely bump that video up the list. I have been thinking about a video covering this. It is an often overlooked part of routine maintenance and effects and engine’s longevity and performance as well as efficiency. As far as your boat goes with the propping you may want to try a 21 pitch to get the rpms up around 6-6100 with a light load. You may barely run faster with that light load, but you will pick up speed with that extra 1000kg. One nice thing about the Suzuki 175 is it performs well under heavy loads. The 175 and 200 are nearly the same when loaded heavy!

@@whatszackdoing Thanx for Your answer! Yes, here in Finland many mechanics told to me that it is not necessary to check those valves. But i am not so sure, because i have in the past 50 hp Suzuki and about 1000 hours 2 exhaust valve burnt. It was expensive repair and this kind of bigger motors maybe much expensive than that 50 hp... I have try to find videos or something help from internet and RUclips, but not find single video about this maintenance for the valves. I will try different prop next summer... Now here lakes are frozen and ice is 70 cm thick 😅. Maybe in middle of May i can start season.

They were 22’ pontoons off another boat. His outside pontoons are 24’

@@whatszackdoing I’m planning on doing something similar. I did an inboard swap on mine and was thinking about adding another toon or 2. You and your brother did a good job on his. I’ve never seen someone do 4 pontoons.

@@Tylerjschmidt pretty soon we are going to modify and add a powered jack plate!

@@whatszackdoing I definitely want to see more vids of the quad toon.

Very nice! Yeah, the Suzuki is a dream of a motor. If you get a chance check out my lifting strakes video! The Suzuki just flies in that one

EXTREME QUADTOON!

Watch the next videos! There are two more about his boat. The performance is surprising….

It does very well. They get run hard on deep sea setups all the time. Extremely well built, durable and reliable

@whatszackdoing that's awesome to hear! My f150 has around 1200hrs above 5500rpm because the artificial reef is 20 miles from the channel. Definitely looking forward to getting the suzuki. I heard about guys getting 8k hrs from theirs. Thanks for the reply and video. Subscribed!

Honestly the Japanese motors are designed and built better. Suzuki has the best warranty, very powerful and extremely reliable. I work on every brand of boat motor and love the Japanese precision and the Suzuki engine control system under the cowl. The ECM keeps a watchful eye on engine activity and keeps it burning clean and running smooth. One problem is that once you buy a zuki you won’t want anything else

Glad you liked it and hope yours turns out good! When I start posting videos again soon there will be one featuring my dads pontoon getting converted to a tritoon!

Until you get a third log under there you should look into skinning the underside of your deck with aluminum sheet (rivet it on). This makes the ride much quieter and should get you 3 or so mph, and fuel savings!

@@whatszackdoing Thanks for the info! Im subscribing! 🍻

@@whatszackdoing Cool name by the way! You even spell it right! 🍻

24’ originally, but I moved the middle pontoon back when I rebuilt the deck/floor etc. so it’s actually about 25.5 long tip to transom

It needs both sides. It has held up quite well this summer though!

Thanks!

Just looked and the link is gone! Added another in the description.

Yeah, probably a bad call

Thanks! Trying to make it last. Been using all summer and has been great

Man I love those. I was on the fence between the 200 and 250ss. Every time I mount the 250ss I love the test drive. So good

Yeah, for prop testing we weren’t putting them on super tight. With a Watergrip Prop that is staying on for the long haul we torque to 40ft Lbs or greater and use a wood block