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Rough Country states you only need 0.25 inch wheel spacers in the front if you're running stock (no offset) wheels like I am, but truth is you can't really tell the difference between front and back wheels because 1/4" is such a small amount. And even if it is noticeable, then you can just as easily add spacers to the back wheels to match, but in my case I did not because it's not noticeable. Hope this helps!

I just put my front spacers on the stock wheels today since Disocunt Tire refused to when getting new tires yesterday. I thought it would help prevent the 35” tires from rubbing but they still do very slightly.

I've never heard of resin warping or coming off in wood pieces. I'm thinking the only way that could happen is if your substrate had too much moister, but if you used MDF, partial board, plywood etc then I'm confident you'll be just fine. Your worktable will be able to handle everything you want after about 2-4 wks at the most and once it's completely cured, then it will be as hard a bowling ball. I have grinders, benchtop drills and I put heavy objects i.e., batteries on my workbench all the time w/o any issues.

@@ttttenney First of all...thank you for this reply! I kind of thought as much but I became concerned when I went to a small street fair that had a woman that was creating Epoxy Resin plaques and such. I wanted to purchase a custom piece from her to attach to some of the edge places on my worktable to enable me to clamp down things like metal vices and an extendable magnifying lamp etc. and avoid long term scarring of the table. She was the one that said the resin would warp and eventually come up off the wood. Anyway, this is a really long reply to your reply...but I have a question or two. ;/ So...my worktable is about 4 feet by 8 feet. I poured a gallon of epoxy resin on the table and it's been curing now for about a month now. I went to put a few things on the table earlier this week and after leaving them on for about the week...I noticed something when I took them off. It looked like the resin had been pushed away from the touch points on each of the items. There was a tripod, a resin printer and a resin wash machine. At first I was frustrated...but then I thought I would take the torch and see what would happen if I heated the area. The resin flowed back together. So...now I'm wondering if I have to pour another gallon of epoxy resin on the table for it to be thick enough. Whew! What are your thoughts?

@@SayJade I experienced similar when I placed my grinder on my workbench after about 3wks. It indented the epoxy a small amount, so I took it of and the indents leveled out. Waited another week, put it back on and it's been great ever since. Don't stress too much, because your epoxy (regardless of brand) "will" eventually harden even if your mixture was slightly off. I had a project take an extra few wks to harden, because I was in a rush and didn't mix enough hardner with the resin. To answer your question - no, you do not need to add more, although you could w/o issue if you want. I've added additional resin over curing (soft) epoxy several times and have never had any issues with it not (eventually) hardening like a rock. Test by driving your thumbnail or screwdriver in an inconspicuous place, before placing heavy objects on your workbench, but again, DO NOT worry because it will for sure harden. Good luck and let me know how long yours takes to fully cure.

@@ttttenney Thank you again. So...I poured the epoxy on April 4th...and I don't think I had the wrong combination of epoxy and hardener...as I mixed the whole gallon at once...emptying both bottles into a bucket and mixing it thoroughly. I put the tripod on it again this morning...just to test...and after 30 minutes the indentations were back. I'm just concerned because I have a party coming up on May 22nd and I really need to put the items back on the work table that are currently on my dinner table prior to the party. :/ If it still hasn't hardened completely can I put the items on it and take them off after the party and then either pour another layer or...I guess wait even longer for this layer to completely harden? I with I could insert pics here so that you could see what I'm talking about. :p I'm also in Utah...by the way...West Valley City. lol

@@SayJade I can't image it won't be fully cured by the 22nd. If need be you could put the items out long enough for the party and then take off after, but I really don't think it'll be an issue that far after your original pour. Sounds like your concern at this point would be best answered by the epoxy manufacturer, as to how long it will take to fully cure/harden or what to do if it doesn't. All my experience has only ever been with SCC, and I like I mentioned earlier it's worked every time even when my mixture was slightly off. BTW - nice to met a fellow Utahn!

Also Do you get any rubbing?

Yes, I added 1/4" spacers in the front and I get small amount of rubbing.

There may be zero cutting with the SuperLift, but trimming a few fins by 1/4" isn't really an issue. The real concern with the SuperLift is that you're only replacing the UCAs. That's what plagued RC on their previous lift kits and why they had so many complaints. This 3.5" RC lift replaces the knuckle, addressing the stress on the LBJ and CV angle for longer life, better wear and smoother ride.

@@ttttenney I am looking to get the 3.5" soon, so you are saying the knuckle lift is the way to go?

@@lannieschafroth6814 Based on my research, the 3.5" RC lift is the better choice between the two. Not just because of the lower price, but more importantly because the replacement knuckle addresses stress put on the LBJ and CV angels. Good luck in whatever choice you make and be sure to get a full alignment shortly after install.

I would have done the 5" lift as well, but then it wouldn't have fit in my garage.

Thanks. Fortunately, no need to cut the bump stops.

@@ttttenney how about cross member and diff fins ?

@@unknownfelix2605 I didn't cut the cross member and I only trimmed the fins slightly. It's been a while, but I thought I recalled a few ppl saying they didn't trim theirs at all.

@@ttttenney looking on ordering this kit for my 2018 all terrain Sierra why is it they remove the splash cover ?

I'm in Utah where we get temps from 100+ degrees down to single digits, and I can easily and safely say that temps have absolutely no effect on epoxy resign once it is cured. You only have to worry about temps at the beginning when you're mixing and pouring.

@@ttttenney Thank you! Awesome work and it looks amazing!

Great to hear and thanks again for your comments. I did get some carb cleaner overspray on it and although it didn't ruin it, it was hard to clean off and get the shine back using regular household cleaners. I've also had Goof Off, isopropyl alcohol, WD40, oil, Grease, paint thinner etc., and none of it created any big issues or stains.

Good timing, I just created an honest review a few weeks ago, which I just uploaded titled (Epoxy workbench Review 2-1/2 years later) Click on my profile and be the first viewer. Let's just say these epoxy benchtops hold up every bit or even better than wood tops do, so go for it.

@@ttttenney AWESOME! And the fast reply.. love it. Thank you. Headed to go watch it now.

Also wondering the same??

You’re supposed to. I couldn’t tell the difference between running them with or without. I put them on since it’s recommending

I really need to do a part 2 video soon. I've spilt gas, oil, WD40, grease, paint thinner...etc. and it's still in great shape. Things that didn't do so well are CA glue, heavy metal objects, razor blades and solder.

@@ttttenney Thank you for all the information!

#1 is the front and #6 is in the back towards the firewall. Hope that helps and good luck to you.

@@ttttenney Thanks!

First off - if you are at all considering this lift, then I'd say absolutely go for it. The knuckle replacement was designed specifically with the angles in mind, in fact it is better than the lifts with the upper control arm replacement. That's my experience based on a lot of research, but mostly my personal experience with it as a daily commuter and offroad truck.

Thanks for the fast reply! And thanks for the reassuring reasons to get the kit! I was also looking at the superlift 3.5 but it does not come with knuckles only UCA. So I’m guessing the kit RC kit with knuckles is the way to go! Thanks again

@@csb3225 yeah, don't let the other bad reviews on the RC 3.5 lifts scare you off. Those are older lifts and not the same as this "knuckle" kit, which fixes all the angle issues. BTW - if you plan on DIY installation like I did, then be sure to read my tips in the detail section of this video. Thanks for watching and good luck. You won't regret, I promise.

Sorry to frustrate you, but I never titled this as a how-to or DIY video. There are dozens of those types of videos from SCC and others on YT. Good luck with whatever you start out with, because this stuff is very forgiving, easy to work with and looks great with almost any selection of colors you choose.

@@ttttenney No frustration from me. I was hoping to find how-to video when I came across your video. Nice work! Only hoped more thorough video explaining how you got this result the I would like to duplicate.

Haha... you're too kind. It actually was my very first project, although I spent hours first watching video after video. Thanks again.

Or you could simply do a usb splitter as well. I've since found that they make both straight and 45° clip connectors if you don't want to soldier. Good luck my friend.

Other than using wood glue on the seems and sanding first, I did not because the BEHR paint had primer in it.

@@ttttenney Ok, thank you.