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@@elrojas9352 it depends on you and you position. Normally you should start with 0° and move it if it's necessary. Mine is around 2° front tilted

@projectcycling thanks for the fast reply i did put a flat surface on top and put it 0°

@@SaikSaketh nothing special. The xplr cassette entered correctly but it was very close to the frame and the chain touched it. The frame had a RD hanger for 11spd only. The one for 12spd is ticker and it let the cassette sits at the right distance to the frame

Yes I know. The shimano style cassette was was only to show where the problem was. I used the right top cap for sram but the problem was just the rear hanger. This frame needs a specific 12 speed rear hanger that has more material and let the cassette sits in the right spot

@@pulkinpulman2028 Thank you so much

@@alexanderwoloszyk9586 with no electronic shifting I didn't use the inner channels of the handlebar. If you go full internal there are too many tight turns for the cables and it would make shifting worse

@@xelseartheonlyone1267 135mm is pretty wide. Anyway I think the SB measurement is not very reliable because you measure the largest part of the bones but in a road bike you are not in the same position of the test and the contact point is narrower. Anyway for a sport/endurance position you should add 15mm per side to you sb measurement so in you case you should need a wide saddle... 135+30 =165mm. Or maybe they didn't measure correctly

@@projectcycling thank you.

@@wretchedworm I saved the cost of the 240s hubs and maybe something for the spokes. The goal was to learn how to lace and build a wheelset without spending too much

@@projectcycling but u would have to buy a truing stand right? i checked the prices of that and i don't know... unless i'm going to build lots of wheels, it doesn't seem justifiable if all i want to do is to learn how to build a wheel.

@@wretchedworm that's right, but I bought one from Aliexpress that does the job. It's not like the classic parktool in terms of stability, but more than enough to build some wheels and check them from time to time (disc rotors too)

@@xelseartheonlyone1267 yes still using the Prologo. It's a great saddle. I used to use the Pro Stealth but I felt a little discomfort in the central area because of the plastic very close to the hole

@@projectcycling Thanks. I seriously consider buying it. Is it flat or curved? I need a flat saddle and for the style i look for this looks the flatest. At least in the pictures.

@@xelseartheonlyone1267 not too flat...it's not like an Arione saddle...relatively flat on the top but it has pretty quick slope

@@projectcycling If the slope is on the nose. I don't mind it...

@@hewough Hi..I confirm 75mm reach

​@@projectcyclingThx 👍

yup, hard to listen to the voice with the music.

28mm schwalbe, real width 30/31mm

@@projectcycling thank you. Have the wheels been working well?

@@FT__Bicycling_____-sc7yv yes they are perfect after 3 years, still thru... very happy as a first wheel build

Fsa acr style spacers that comes with the frame, with the last one 3d printed to seal the spacer pack

Difficult to say man..it depends on the spacers you have under the bar. In my case I used a 3d printed flat spacer that I designed by myself.

@@projectcycling thanks for the video, nice and informative. You mentioned you had an issue, but didn’t find subsequent video. Also, could you share your 3d design?

Yeah me too. Anyway I had a "problem"after this video but I will speak about it in another video. I still use it at the moment.

@@projectcycling I am thinking to buy this handlebar, can you tell what kind of problem did you have? And overall, do you recommend this handlebar?

@@justaskz4240 After 8 months I noticed a little crack between the end of the stem and the bar..I don't understand if it's a cosmetic crack (I painted it with clearcoat) or a real crack. Anyway I changed the handlebar to be safe anyway

@@projectcycling which handlebar are you using now? Are there more cheaper alternatives to original Syncros Creston which is way too expensive

@@justaskz4240 at the moment I use The One handlebar...always chinese but lot of good reviews and it seems really solid and well built. For the Syncros a like alternative frankly I don't know.. they are really nice but when you go on aliexpress for this kind of "alternatives" it's a matter of luck

Frame is a Carbonda cfr 1056. The headset is an FSA ACR but I use a custom 3d printed top spacer that I already use with the old stem: one completely closed if I use external cables, one with a hole if I use internal routing

@@projectcycling did you try to add the top cap, is it aligned well? Can you share some photo with top cap?

@@petredimov No I didn't 'cos it is made to stay aligned with the Scott spacers/headset and they are bigger than normal so it only fit on scott bikes

@@projectcycling could you share the STL for the spacer. I have this bar and I am struggling to fit it to my bike. I have sanded mine down as well and I plan to paint it to match my bike.

No link but you can choose whatever you find at the cheaper price..they are a bunch of resellers that sell the same product. Mine is for oversized fork with the adapter

Sincerely I don't know..I mean, it depends on your body not on a particular saddle. What do you mean with 55°? Normally saddle inclination should stay at single digits values

Not me. The problem with my ntn's was that they were not real ntn's in my opinion.

Hello, at the moment I'm satisfied, it looks good, nothing to declare. It does the job

276mm for sure and the other half I cannot find it anymore...maybe 278mm

Yes I use the same axle I use with my rear wheel

@@projectcycling thank you

It's spec'd 32mm but with a 28mm tire that measure 31mm there is half a centimeter on top and on both sides

Thank you so much

Yes maybe, but with chinese parts it's always a question of luck, sometimes they are perfect and sometimes there are these little stupid imperfections

No unexpectedly the weight is really close with the new rail, a bunch of grams more but nothing crazy

With this sense of humor and this need to do comments like this, you clearly demonstrate who is the joke here. Get a life

With the truing stand, using a single pointer and flipping the wheel back and forth to check if the distance was the same

I have a 28mm that measures 30mm and 0.8mm per side before touching the frame. It depends on the real measure of the tires

It depends on you and on your bones. Anyway in my case I feel my legs spinning better with Prologo

This truing stand does the job but I would like something with stiffer arms. Need to take some time to see if I can improve it

Hey.. size is L, but this frame is quite short in reach. It suits me very well because I've long legs and short torso. Anyway 185 with 91 inseam

@@projectcycling Hi. How muchis the seat post length? And your distance from seat to bottom bracket? If it is posible can you also measure between seat to handlebar distance. I supposed that you have short stem around 100mm. If short reach I think installing longer stem it is posible to solve the problem. I want just to compare with my actual bike. Thank you.

@@ila6182 hi, distance between center of bb and saddle is 79.5 cm. The stem in the video was 100mm but I used a 110mm with another handlebar/handlebar angle and I come back to 100mm with the new one (next video).Distance from saddle to center handlebar is currently 57.5 cm

Hey, it's a generic multi bb format press tool from Aliexpress

Hey man, I designed it on paper and a friend of mine transposed it in CAD. After that I 3d printed it

In the short period I don't think it's a big problem, but bearings and axle have 2 different hardnesses and in the long period the softer one will wear. If you want to use NTN you need a plastic sleeve because they don't do non standard size bearings, so the protection is just "included"

Can you put a NTN6805 inside the token to replace the token bearings? thank you

@@juanbenavent9131 the video shows how to change oroginal token bearings with NTN 6805, so yes

I thought it was a bb3724 token for a bb90 bottom bracket, that's the one i have but i think i can only use token bearings, it's impossible to fit a 6805 bearing, how can i prolong the spindle life? thank you