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@@darrenbellouny9017 yeah, I found out soft copper and the disconnect problem when I had my LP supplier’s service man out to look over my site and recommend how to hook up my ceiling furnace in my new shop addition. You can see many build videos of the addition on my channel. Thanks for watching!

@@WillemHosking-lz7tx 102 inch stainless whip, mast cut to 102 inches…, I don’t do meters

@@bobsbarnworkshop i mean the pole

@@WillemHosking-lz7tx the pvc section below the antenna is about 2 feet long, then another section of steel pipe on the bottom is about 4’. These lengths are unimportant and don’t affect the performance of the antenna. Just there for isolation and mounting. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

Yep!

@@stevev7402 the regulator is on the LP line outside the barn. It all depends on your setup and situation, my tank is quite a ways from the barn so there’s a high pressure regulator on the underground line from the tank to the barn, then at the barn there’s a regulator to drop the pressure to “normal” level. I believe that is 11” of water. So just be careful and be sure you are tapping into the correct pressure. A portable LP tank is unregulated until you use a regulated hose like you said. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

@@bobsbarnworkshop Thank you for the quick reply.

I am actually at the lake for 4th of July week. Maybe I can open up the control box and show the details of how it goes together.

A battery through a relay and a pushbutton, pretty simple!

Exactly! I am learning as I go! I bring you along on an adventure of discovery! Thanks for watching!

It’s always prudent to use safety equipment! I should wear safety glasses! Thanks for watching!

😆

Yep!!! I bought two “untested but powers up” which both have bad heads! So never buy a 1541 with the lever type closing mechanism, most have dead heads! Thanks for watching and learn from my mistakes!

The rectifier negative output is grounded to the engine block by the mounting screws. Notice the coil has two terminals and there is only the one positive output. The mounting screws go through the bare metal base of the rectifier. Thanks for commenting and watching! Good luck!

@@bobsbarnworkshop Sounds good! I just did this upgrade and had some other issues and the repair shop told me I needed to ground the rectifier or the batter wouldn't charge. I figured I'd check with you since it is the exact setup I am running!

@@jacobmackler well, I did this video several years ago and I never have to charge my battery during the season! So it works great! FYI, I worked in electronics at Westinghouse, Kodak and a leading university for my career, so I kinda know how it works!

You really shouldn’t use starter fluid or brake cleaner to start an engine except for an emergency, they wash the oil off from cylinder walls and can cause scoring and damage. Use 2cycle fuel (with a little oil in it) much easier on your engine! Thanks for commenting and watching!

The part number is 420807 which I searched and it says is 1/2” X 81” Good luck! Thanks for Watching’

It’s a bunch of fun ain’t it! Thanks for watching! I have a bunch of content on my channel years ago working on our 67 Mustang convertible. Last year I pulled the engine again and rebuilt the tired 302 unto a 347 stroker! All that work is on my channel.. this year I have been checking and restoring brakes and brake lines, new fuel line and electric pump, new Kenwood stereo with Sirius, new tires on original 14” wheels and original wheel covers… all coming up soon!

No,😢I know exactly how a tire is made and the wire in the bead. And how the only way to get a tire off and on a wheel is to get the bead down into the “drop center” of the wheel to give it slack to slip over the edge. It’s just very hard to do with tire spoons and a tire laying loose on the bench. At the beginning of the video I put text saying that my most popular video is me changing tires by hand and this one is also starting to take off! So I literally did it because fans seem to like watching it! Thanks for commenting and watching!

It’s really not hard to build! Some 6ga wire for the primary wires to the starter relay from battery positive ( I put in a self reset 50 A breaker in between) to an Anderson 50A 2pole connector, to the starter, ground back through the Anderson connector and to battery negative the rest is just small wire to the relay coil (through a fuse first) through a momentary push button to battery negative. That’s it! I suppose I could build you one.? Want any other accessory switches? I have navigation lights and bilge pump

@@bobsbarnworkshop I watched your video a few more times and I think I can do it. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for getting beck to me!

@@theanglerboy I made a home made terminal crimper for the big connectors by drilling a hole in a piece of hardwood the same diameter as the terminal barrel, then split it through the center of the drill hole. Then I stripped the wire , put it in the terminal, laid it in the half hole and used a screwdriver and a hammer to make a nice firm indent to make the connection tight! Good luck! Sorry I didn’t film the actual construction. I bought the 12v relay at autozone for about $14, I had the big plastic battery box around the lake forever!

I really appreciate your comments and suggestions! I had the threaded rod and tire irons from when I had motorcycles and needed to change tires frequently. Using a common tire tool wouldn’t be very “inventive” or challenging! I changed the tractor tires because they had become hard and the tread was bad, no steering traction! The Kenda tires are great and losing air isn’t a problem. I changed the rear soon after and their traction is great! No more steering problems and even though they look aggressive, they don’t tear up the lawn! I do use the tractor for snow blowing also, these tires are great in snow but I also use tire chains! Thanks for watching!!!

I just sold it to the junk yard today, the front body to subframe mounts were totally gone! I couldn’t sell it, in good conscience, to anyone in such an unsafe condition! Good luck! Thanks for watching!

Sorry, this was done a few years ago… I remember I had to modify it to fit. I don’t remember where I bought it…, maybe Ebay, I will try to see if it’s in my purchase list and get back to you if I find it. Good luck! Thanks for watching!

So I reviewed the end of the video and I said I used 7/16” nuts and socket so I assume the studs are 1/4”-20. Back in the 60’s everything was SAE, not metric

The Mustang had the original manual linkage which was tough, and I installed a Centerforce clutch which was also very tough to get used to. The Malwood unit works great! Very smooth and I replaced the clutch with a standard LUK brand. The Malwood unit includes a new pedal and all the lines you need. It is one piece so the master cylinder is part of it so there’s no other linkage to drill holes to mount. I have a power brake booster making some of the other brands impossible to use. It’s more expensive but simpler to install. Taking out the old clutch pedal and mounting the unit is hard (take the driver’s seat out!) but the operating ease is worth it! Get the transmission input shaft hydraulic donut slave cylinder, awesome product! Good luck! Thanks for watching!

thanks bob! the kit that i received has the malwood cltch pedal with an external slave cyl that bolts on the side of the bellhousing. looks like a nice piece! hopefully it's smoother than the cable setup!

Thx bob yeah that’s what I thought but the 1/4-20 doesn’t screw on ! Threads are good too! Also wondering if your pedals line up? Doesn’t seem like the clutch is higher than the brake and no adjustment but I could be wrong.

@@67stangproject yes, the clutch pedal is s little higher than the brake. Maybe you can make a block or stop. Doesn’t bother me

actually called malwood and they said if you want to line up the pedals there is a slotted tang up front and just bend with a crescent wrench on it it till the pedal stops where your brake pedal is at. we did that and its back level once again! must be the ocd in me! haha . thanks again for all the info Bob!

I found out after that there is a special clamp on tool designed not to damage your wheel. Glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching!

Would have been easier on a lift! Ha!

Just search “trailer hitch astro van” on ebay, you’ll get lots of options. The model I got isn’t listed any more

Is that supposed to be an insult!!??

This video is one of my first attempts changing a small tire. I’ve learned a little since then. I have regular motorcycle tire irons, muck better than using screw drivers which can damage your tire or rim. I’ve tried putting a tire iron under the bead and twisting it around like a tire machine, but I just don’t have enough leverage to do so. I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching! I have over 300 DIY videos! Please take a look!

Lacquer thinner is what I had on hand. I really try to avoid using flammables to mount tires! To avoid burning the tire (or the shop!) or injuring myself! I don’t recommend using it! Thanks for watching!

If your motor’s flywheel has the magnet, then just the coil and rectifier. I don’t think there’s a regulator, the rectifier just puts out positive pulses. look at parts listings for your particular model of motor to see what was used in similar models that use the charging system. I am no expert on this, I only have the one motor in my experience! Thanks for watching!

I have a whole play list of the work and upgrades I did on this bike! Frame repairs, pegs, fender extensions, aux fuel tank, camo paint!!!! Check it out! Thanks for watching!

I show the reality of how much time and effort it takes to do any DIY project! No edits so it looks like there’s no problems or mistakes to fix and overcome! I do most recordings real time, no fake setups! Thanks for watching and commenting!