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Not really but I do think my reman rack has a little bit of play. Look into the oversized steering column pins from Unbalanced Engineering if your column has the typical slop where you can pull it down and to the left.

@JunkRacecars i seen that but 60 for some pins kinda expensive lol was thinking of just going with a steering column from trick chassis

@@Kirbawesome that's a lot more money and work, wouldn't work for a street car, and not collapsible so it's way more dangerous

I'm not exactly sure of the weight of my car in all honesty, but I have removed as much as I can for a street car. The car has no AC (including the evaporator and a chopped HVAC box), no emissions, a simple exhaust with LTs and a single 3" exit, no airbags, no sound deadening under the carpet, on the firewall, or the rubberized stuff in the trunk, no rear seats and belts, lighter stereo with only 2 door speakers, no ABS, no heat shields, lightweight flywheel and driveshaft, lightweight seats and steering wheel, tiny Odyssey battery, and a fiberglass hood. Stuff like coolers, larger brakes, oil pan, wheels/tires, subframe connectors, and my 4pt half cage put weight back into it so my guess is that it's close to stock for a hardtop firebird. I did a lot of this stuff incrementally so I can't say that I noticed the effects too much, but lap times will definitely improve with less weight. I am currently running the stock 3.42 gears and don't want to go any higher, especially once I put together my 355 with more power and a higher shift point. I end up in 5th a lot right now since I short shift my current motor, but the 5/6 cluster gear in the T56 is known for having weak splines and I'm afraid I will eventually break the trans. It's better to keep the trans in 4th anyway since the RPM drop from the 4-5 shift is huge.

There are some tunes saved here: www.ltxtech.com/tunes/ If your car is auto, be really careful that you use the right year since there are differences in the trans tuning.

@@JunkRacecars thanks, mine is the automatic transmission. I’m going to save my current setup but there are a few different bins on that link. Which one would you recommend I try?

@@TimCasey-m4b bobdec - stock 94 Z28 A4 2.73.bin or either of the badbird_96 tunes

@@buildingracingvideos4714 the software is very expensive ($600 for lt1 edit) whereas this is free

@JunkRacecars ok. Very useful information to know. I'm still in the planning stage and trying to find the easiest way to keep the injection. I'm getting old, it's hard to read the numbers on carburetor jets, and I understand fuel injection is better.

Yeah, Strano's stuff is good. He was the one who recommended the Ridetechs as they are the next step up from Koni yellows and should be able to cope with slicks if I ever decide to go that route. His sway bars should be a good buy and roughly equivalent to what I'm running. If you want to save some money, you can snag a solid 21mm rear bar out of a 3rd gen for super cheap (stiffness is about the same as his 22mm hollow).

I guess so, but I saw that miata go off track several times before this since he was definitely wheelin it too hard. Regardless, the BMW guy should've stayed off line with his hazards on or pointed me by since he was doing 1/2 speed and creating a hazard.

What kind of shock/coilover? I am using Eibach 1200.250.0800S coilover spring on my Ridetechs with slightly shorter endlinks.

You clearly never seen how much torque 6 inline bmw 335 makes

@@bmwbavaria3991a fair amount. But still not as much as 99% of all V8’s are capable of. Facts.

There is no replacement for displacement

While they are nice, they are definitely not necessary for casual tracking. You can still go very fast with a panhard bar.

@@mubashircheentavida Really hard to say honestly. Maybe a tad sharper but definitely not as big of a jump as moving from 285/35 RS4 to a 285/30 71RS on the old 10.5" wheels. I'm not that familiar with Pitt but the surface didn't feel nearly as grippy as NJMP.

@@mubashircheentavida These tires were probably cooked before I showed up though as the outer shoulders were already pretty worn. I started the season with -2.1deg camber and bumped it up to -2.5 before I left for Pitt, but I think it was too little too late.

There's a link to my setup vid in the description

@@JunkRacecars Ahh thank you will take a look!

I don't think the opti plug changes anything since the 93 and 94 years share the same distributor despite having different computers. If you have a 94-95 computer in the car with a p/n ending in 051 then I would scan the car with an ALDL cable and laptop.

@@JunkRacecars So will converting back to OBD1 and getting this software and cable let us tell the car we have the ZZ4 cam in it?

​@Jeff-bk4nm did u figure it out?

@@youngotterking5450 I still have it but put the motor and trans into this car. I'll put it back together once I have more time and a larger workspace.

@@JunkRacecars sick, thanks you. Love the Pontiac

hahahaha I tried to honk but I forgot my horn doesn't work

@@JunkRacecarssaw that, haha

My exhaust broke on pit out and was wayyyyy too loud so I had to drive a whole lap slow AF to pit back in 😂

Passing without a point-by is how you get thrown out of the event

Yes, I would expect the advanced class to have advanced drivers. Dude is obviously lost.

Sorry you do see where you clearly pasted New bmw owners at the track day? Are you saying your track allows random people without proof into the advanced class?

@@camrongoodall New as in modern. Guys with older sorted BMWs seem to have no problems out there. And this was a Track Night in America event so there's no vetting. Anyone can sign up for advanced and unfortunately a lot of people with more money than talent think they're too good for intermediate.

@@JunkRacecars that's not good maybe petition your track to have higher standards?

@@camrongoodall It's not the track, it's the organization and I already gave them that feedback.

Tough to say since it's driver dependent, but my guess is that I'd be a little faster in an SS1LE if I got an opportunity to track one a bunch. Pros compared to my Bird are more power, much wider tires, electronic nannies (eLSD, ABS, traction control, stability control, revmatching), IRS, and a more rigid chassis. The only cons are more weight and macpherson struts on the front. My car is going to feel a lot more raw/analog in comparison and makes the driver work harder since it's basically a big V8 gokart. I plan on adding more power and wider tires in the future which should make them even. My current setup is a little conservative.

@@epicduck0067 I have a spacer on the throttle pedal that extends it towards the brake

@@wideopenthrottle1165 long tubes, ORY, and a 3" catback with a FlowFX muffler (straight-thru Magnaflow knockoff), single exit on the driver side

Honestly.... I hated the feel of them as they were kinda vague at the limit. They do take a lot of punishment though and last forever, but they will heat cycle out well before the tread is gone. I'm on RE71RS now and I like them a lot more, but wish I got the CRS since they'll last longer. I managed a 14.6 in my latest vid on the Bridgestones though so I'm happy.

Motor has a very mild cam and mild port work so around 350whp, but I do short shift at 5.2k also. I believe I was on Raybestos ST43 pads on the front and Hawk HPS rear in this vid, but I have different stuff now. Suspension is Ridetech coilovers on the front, Koni yellow shocks and BMR springs rear, 35mm front sway, Spohn rear LCAs, Founders panhard, and UMI torque arm.

Everything here is freeware

Are you planning on tracking it? I was actually planning on swapping to 3.23 gears once I add more power. I end up in 5th gear a lot on track which isn't good for the trans since the 5-6 cluster gear splines get really loose.

@@JunkRacecars yeah. I guess I'd be more concerned about the diff blowing up than the trans. Even the Borg T56 is a pretty stout unit. I have pretty decent acceleration in a clapped out bone stock LT1. My car easily walks past a 2019 WRX STI that my friend owns.

@@ethanpeschman4458 Gotcha, yeah the diff is definitely a liability but mine has been OK so far. I think the girdle/cover is helping it stay together. I don't have to worry about breaking the teeth as much since my gears are stock ratio atm, but you're probably fine with stock power and 4.56s. The T56 is pretty tough in gears 1-4, but 5-6 could be better due to the mainshaft splines and the tiny fork. Just try not to hammer it too much in OD.

​@@JunkRacecarswhat speed are you clocking on the start/finish straight? Also 3.23 is gonna be a dog. And your car will max out 4th gear at 155 at 6500 which is just not really necessary. A 4.10 would be good for you. 4th hits 132 at 6500rpm

@@ethanpeschman4458 It depends on the track, but I'm usually in the low/mid 130s. My 355, some weight reduction, and better tires for more exit speed would probably put me in the mid 140s at Watkins Glen. I also run a shorter tire that's 25" (vs 25.5" stock), so that would put me at 6.3k @ 145 with 3.23 gears. I don't think shorter gearing is always a good thing since it can knock you out of the powerband pretty easily in road racing. The RPM drop from 4->5 is a bit steeper than other gears and would fall from 6.3k to 4.6k with the motor I'm building. Looking at some typical H/C dyno charts tells me that would be like losing 60-70whp, plus I'm losing time shifting instead of accelerating. I don't think it's worth it tbh.

Sounds like a pretty hot setup! What do you think is weird in the rear? Does it feel unpredictable and snappy? Could be the poly as it dries out super fast. I highly recommend checking out a Track Night in America event if you wanna get a taste. I got hooked on it immediately lol. They also send out coupon codes if you sign up for the newsletter.

I gotta get back out there in the dry so I can get my braking points down. Really love the track though! I should be there with Gridlife in October.

Yeah, I have a pedal spacer on the throttle that extends it down and towards the brake pedal. It's a 3D printed piece that's about 5/8" thick. I put the left half of my foot on the brake and roll my pinky toe onto the throttle to blip it. I wear Vans skate shoes and tie the laces tight so it's pretty easy. Spacer looks like this and the throttle pedal aligns with the top right corner and right edge: imgur.com/BeNagA4

I don't really get brake hop in this car, but you can definitely induce brake hop if you don't heel toe.

@JunkRacecars Ok, that makes sense. When I used narrow driving shoes I 100% couldn't do it. Looks like I'll be making a spacer then, thanks.

Will do! I've actually been thinking about doing a vid like that for a while

Nah lol, the cammaster just sits unfortunately until I have time to put it back together. I daily a 94 Caddy Fleetwood with an LT1 though lol.

@@JunkRacecars hey that's cool, those are great cars! I'd imagine you're planning to T56 swap it like you've done your other B body? unless that has already happened :p

@@mightyjoebean Nope lol, I plan on keeping it pretty stock except for some towing mods like gears and better coolers. Plan is to use it to pull my track car around.

@@JunkRacecars I see, that's pretty smart. I'd like to see an update video of your current collection of LT1 powered vehicles. you've got a good fleet so far :p