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Glad it was helpful!

Yes. To not get a quarter frame dead space when switching would require advancing the film 6 sprockets, which is not possible on the Autorex. Only 4 sprockets (half) or 8 sprockets (full) is possible.

Wow, thanks!

My pleasure!

You are welcome!

With cameras of this age, I generally use an external meter because the old cameras often had a battery that contained mercury. The metering systems relied on constant voltage rather than constant current; mercury batteries keep the voltage constant as they age while the current drops More modern cameras that use alkaline batteries leverage the constant current of that battery chemistry. Without a mercury battery in a camera that was designed for one, the meter becomes more inaccurate as the battery ages. I use the Pocket Light Meter app on my phone if I don't have my antique Seconic Studio Deluxe meter. Enjoy!!!

Only on the top, its normal :)

No. This is only for the Auto-Reflex. The Autoreflex models can't do that.

Thank you very much!

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks! I've been looking at adding a Pancolar to my mix. I find that I use a Minolta MC Rokkor 50mm f1.4 more than my 50mm Taks. My favourite 50...ish lens is a Topcor 58mm f1.4. I love it for portraits on my Fuji APS-C bodies.

I don't think there is a wrong version because they are all great!

select one of the custom white balance icons, and then press the button on the right of the menu/ok button on the back of camera. That should bring up the rectangle that you would use to measure and set the white balance. Once that rectangle appears, press the shutter button to measure. Hope that helps.

@@nuovofresco Thank you so much!

That's interesting! Do you know if there was a reason for the colour change? Did Konica change anything on the camera to make it function differently? I have two Pentax S1a bodies; one has a red R, and the other has a green R on the rewind knob. The body with the green R isn't compatible with the 8 element 50mm f1.4, but the later body with the red R was modified to function with that lens. The rear element protrudes into the camera more than other lenses when focused at infinity and could be hit with by the mirror on the earlier body with the green R engraved on the rewind knob.

@@nuovofresco Really interesting. Did not found any reference in the owner's manual. Maybe it was just a cosmetic change? My copy seems to be a late 67, by the marks inside the film door "7 o".

More to come!

Thanks!

Thank you so much 😀

You should! Thanks!

It depends on the camera. Some will only allow full stop adjustments, some will do 1/3 and/or 1/2 stop adjustments.

Thanks Marco!

Thanks!

Thanks! I might give it a go... when we have a few days of sun in a row. Vancouver has been wet for months!

@@nuovofresco It's not so much about the sunlight itself but more the UV (which is higher when the sun shines), but you can also try a UV lamp.

Thanks!

Thanks so much!

I was using the serial numbers and the fonts used on the two versions I have. The older lens has a lower serial number.

Thanks so much! I had one for a while, and stupidly traded it for another lens before testing it properly. I probably should have. I have tested many others lenses in other mounts, but not the Pentax-M, or any K-mount lenses so far.

Thanks! I love the mirrorless system; it acts as a digital back for a long history of lenses! Thanks for making the tools that let us mess with them!

No... My last name is den Otter... ;)

@@nuovofresco yeah in figure, but or it is German or Dutch from origin

@@JohnDought Yes. My Dad was from Rotterdam.

@@nuovofresco Rotterdam, great choice moving to the States because the Netherlands aint a free country

I have a soft spot for the vintage lenses. I was looking at a 12-120 f3.4 Som Berthiot last week. Sadly it covered my sensor even less than the Plasmat. I need to get a C mount adaptor for my Fuji and shoot some 4K so I can crop in. The GF1's video specs are rather antique.

@@nuovofresco The early 1 inch TV lenses from Japan are fairly soft while resolving well. They sharpened up fairly quickly, so the primes and the 2x to 6x zooms are the best to get. None of the zooms entirely cover m4/3 at every FL. Uusally they cover say 10mm after the widest, but the 22.5mm to 90mm F1.5 is ecellent but so heavy it is unwieldy. There are a fair number for sale on eBay.

@@patrickdonnelly5223 I was never a fan of toy camera images; again it's that dutch heritage... too expensive and random per shot. The C mount lenses on m4/3 give me a similar look at a fraction of the price. I was thinking about picking up a Pentax 25mm f1.4. I've heard good things about them, but I have a Kern Switar and Som Berthiot 25mm in that focal length already... I do love options though!

@@nuovofresco There are several versions of that lens. One is excellent and tiny. If it has a box, it will probably say B2514, but some C 2514s are also for a 1 inch sensor..... and of course some are for 2/3 inch! The trick is to see full glass at the rear of the lens, filling the C mount. thye used to retail for $90 in NY, but now retail for $150 or so. Rare now on eBay. There is a MV version, just as good but has set screws to avoid inadvertent movement of the aperture or focus rings. I replace the screws with stalks, for ergonomics. Now sold as Ricoh, of course

This may be the best one. There have been cheaper ones, may be worth waiting. www.ebay.com/itm/284403179459

Old, perhaps. Not wise as much as Dutch... I'm so cheap!!!

I think I need to give the Vivitar another go. I'm pretty sure I missed the focus. One of my Minolta MD to m4/3 adaptors moves the focus point a bit further back than the focus distances on the lens show. The serial number starts with 37 so I think that it was made by Tokina if I'm remembering right. It has a T4 mount on it.

I re-watched the video. I definitely missed the focus by about 15cm on the Vivitar.... My hat reveals how off I was.

I think the Sigma Art series have a huge circle of illumination. A friend of mine was using one on the GFX medium format camera. It would explain the size and weight of those beasts, if they are designed to throw a larger image circle than needed and the sharpest part covers the smaller format. My Nikon Series E 50mmm f1.8 is another lens that has a larger than needed image circle; it might cover 645 format...

@@nuovofresco Cosina made the E lens for Nikon, hence it is not a Nikkor. Sigma Art lenses seem to be amazing, but 'flat'? I can't afford to invest in one, yet. Sigma have certainly out competed their bretheren in Japan. Pity their cameras have not done better.

I've not looked into the Kowa, is it C Mount? and are you sending me down a vintage lens rabbit hole that my wife will disapprove of?

Thanks!

I'm not sure. I've not seen vitamin-C expressed as kg/t. It probably would work, but one would need to test it. Cheers, Ross

@@nuovofresco nah, it's just a joke, 1000 mg are 1 g just as much as 1000 kg are 1 t ;).

That was what I'd thought, but I was a little under caffeinated when I typed out the reply. @@iododendron3416

@@nuovofresco just don't recaffeinated with Caffenol.

That's great to hear. I made this film for my photography students as a way to stay engaged during the pandemic. It's something they may not have thought to try on their own.

thanks so much!

Well, for me it's an allergy to monomethyl-p-aminophenol hemisulfate, but in the film processing world we would call it Metol which is in both D23 and D76. 35 years with my bare hands in D76 was mistake I wish I could take back.

here's a project of mine where used caffenol and a box of old expired and fogged film. ruclips.net/video/Er1D6hjIEIM/видео.html

@@nuovofresco Sorry to hear that. If shifted toward phenodone based developers many years ago, in part to lesser exposure to meiol/Elon, although I have not totally dismissed metol from my chemical stockpile. I have been fortunate in 60+ years to have never had an allergic reaction to photo chemistry. However I was not so fortunate when I did Cibachromes in their early days. The mix of its bleach and fixer, even with a interim water rinse and final rinse in the processing drum could not overcome the fumes when you popped that sucker open. Before I smartened up to what was happening, I nearly gassed myself onto the floor a couple of times. But oh those Cibas were nice! I became too sensitive to those fumes, so had to shift to C-41 and EP-2 printing (at the time).

@@nuovofresco Rodinal or Xtol could be good choices developers without any metol, Rodinal being easy to homemake and stores much longer but is not as good as Xtol, especially for faster films.

I believe it's Caffenol C. I added a bit more washing soda, because it was a monohydrate, to compensate for the single water molecule attached to the Sodium Carbonate. It's important to test your washing soda. It's available in a decahydrate which would leave your solution terribly under active if you don't adjust the quantity to compensate for the 10 water molecules.

Thanks Christine, The print was made using an Epson 7900 printer on canvas. The surface of the print was coated with acrylic gloss medium and allowed to dry. Once dry, I was able to rub the image down with acrylic paint using a damp sponge. I prefer to use inexpensive artist grade acrylics because the drying time (or open time) is a little longer than artist grade acrylics so it leaves me more time to work the surface, Cheers, Ross

@@nuovofresco Love your work! Do you spray the canvas with a UV spray prior to applying the gloss medium?