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Just did the one on my 2012 Chevy Colorado. Pushing the red little rod back did not unlock it. So, I cut the the wires to remove the solenoid. I ordered a replacement for the solenoid to replace the old one and ordered another connector as I destroyed it trying to removing it. The locking ramp you mention on the old solenoid the new on doesn’t have.the new PT2612 connector has larger gauge wiring which created a problem with connecting the 23 awg single wires on the harness. Back to the connector. The Colorado harness is, I think too short so the solenoid needs to be removed from the canister first. I did what you did by pushing the red square rod gently until it stopped. As I said the connected was still locked. Then I went to the front, red push button and using a tech grade 3/32 flat blade screw driver and inserted in under this button and raised up the black bale and the connector removed from the rails. Still dealing with reconnecting the wire gauges but expect to accomplish this task soon. Thanks for your post.

Thanks for actually showing us lol. Tf 😂

How is the ride?

@larrydeem3071 You mention that the compressor does not have a clutch. You're the first person to mention this in scouring various forums, groups and videos. Where did you find this information? I'm asking because the 'AC off' button on my 2003 SL500 blinks and then just stays on, which indicates a problem with the system, of course. One of the typical things to check in a compressor with a clutch is the ability for the front plate / clutch to engage/disengage as well as spin freely when the car is off. The front plate doesn't spin at all when off but now it makes sense since there is no conventional clutch. It also makes sense in that the AC is off but I would expect the clutch plate to not be engaged (spin freely). Thanks for sharing any info you may recall on the description of the compressor and how it's not the same as other cars. Understand if you don't have that info handy since you did this work last year.

Love the SL55 vids on your channel. Thanks for sharing them.

Great information. I wouldn’t have noticed that slot for the screwdriver. On my Camry the drivers side has a panel there that barely blocks the screwdriver. I found that removing the turn signal bulb gave me just enough room to, with some creative body positioning, get the torque I needed to remove the marker light. I hope that helps some one.

Thanks for your help with this…I had a difficult time pulling this connector off…Put a small flat head from the top and behind connector (there is a little slot) and push down with flathead….you will see the bottom red tab slide down…keep working the screwdriver and it will slide off…What a pain getting that sucker off. Thanks again

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! YES IM SHOUTING IT!

if it's pushed down and locked in place how can you get to that spot you're referencing?? You should have showed us how the red tab works!!!

Big thank you! After spending hours trying to get the oven door back in without triggering the snaps prematurely I watched your video. Worked like a charm!

Thank you, you saved me from a beating

I have the same one. The tiny screen doesn’t turn on, any advice? Is there a battery maybe? It’s has up and down buttons as well as star/stop and reset. Then another circle below for load indicator and pedal rpm and with an arrow that should go around but that doesn’t either

Shit video bud, are you asking for help or offering it?

I spent two hours struggling to get that thing to turn and eventually landed on this same technique. But in all honesty, If i had to do it again, i would remove the front bumper cover to move the entire headlight. It looks alot easier and i wont gouge the marker fixture with a screwdriver(which i did)

I’m having the same issue but i dont really understand your solution

Interesting, I have the approx $100 HF aluminum 1.5 ton jack and I had one piston that was stuck, tear down revealed that there was slight rust build up on the piston and likely the bore binding the piston from traveling properly. Checking for same on the other piston revealed same issue to lesser extent. I cleaned it up and all is working now. I’ll be checking the jack for the issue you are showing here.

Where can i buy a connector replacement i broke mine when trying to remove it

Thank you for posting this helpful video.

Without removing anything except the coolant tank (easy), I can reach in and put fingers and thumb on the back of the connector. But not enough room to rotate the connector and pull it out. Rare example of Toyota engineers dropping the ball on owner-easy repairs.

I had both the i30 and the i20 at various times. I believe both errors can be caused by the pressure sensor getting clogged/stuck. The bad sensor reading "low" all the time caused the dishwasher to overfill itself and leak at the front right corner of the unit.

Great job, thanks. I love my Toyotas, but sometimes I wonder why they make certain tasks so overly complex. (But other normally difficult ones easy I guess)

💯 p̲r̲o̲m̲o̲s̲m̲

OMG!!! So happy I found your video. About to change the light on my daughter's Camry 90° weather I'm sweating there's no way it can be done. Found your video 5 minutes finished

Don’t forget your air vents on top of your house can get stop up can cause sinks not to drain good to.

That is a rare early model with that style bottom bracket. Most of them have a slide out cartridge type with 2 sealed bearings. Worked on dozens of airdyne and never seen one with loose bearing balls like that. It also has a rare plastic chain guard on the right side I bet and 1" dia handlebars. Looks stored indoors and very nice for 40 years old.

Thank you, I had been struggling to take that thing off out in the cold for at least 20 mins, came inside to warm up, saw your video, went back out and finished the job in 5 minutes!

Thanks for this video. The video was accurate in showing the challenge with this, which is limited visibility and physical access., so I appreciated it and the technique. After loosening the fender liner somewhat, I was able to reach in with my left hand and simultaneously use the screwdriver from the top to somewhat assist my left hand's torque, which was very limited, as he said. Likewise, I was able to muddle through getting it back in that way, but that was tougher. I only convinced myself I had done it, by pulling on the wires lightly, to see if it remained seated. There is a light color plastic fin on the socket assembly that should be pointing down when it is rotated into the socket properly. You can understand the assembly's geometry after you've removed it, but I don't think I would have been successful only using a screwdriver from the top to torque it, because it is still very blind. This was the passenger side, so I'm glad my left-hand dexterity was sufficient. I have long, skinny fingers, which helped, too.

Thanks for taking the time to do this. A big help! I was lucky enough to loosen it by hand and didn’t have to do the screwdriver trick.

Helpful, just for everyones benefit, needle nose and gripping the sides ofthe black part andcounter clockwise works great. When reinserting push well into the opening and turn in reverse with the needlenose. Clean bulb of residue blablabla first.

I accidentally pulled the plastic sleeve from the bulb housing, but I was able to wiggle needle nose pliers to turn it a quarter.. beats taking off the bumper and all.

Made my day :) worked for me, thanks!

This worked for me - thank you Larry! You are the only person I found who had a suggestion that works.

Is that the same light as the signal light?

I cannot find the little lever to pull down to release the sensor? I’ve tried the bottom like you suggested to Adam Stewart. Help please. Thank you !

Because I had a spare fixture housing from an earlier car repair (effing raccoons), I was able to look at it closely and realize: a large flat-bladed screwdriver can be inserted into the back opening above where the wires exit the connector. With the screwdriver, turning the fixture a quarter turn to remove it is now trivial. This was on a US-built 2011 Camry LE for the US market; no idea if Canada / Mexico fixtures are different. One other warning: if removing the fixture with an LED upgrade bulb installed, BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN WITHDRAWING THE FIXTURE/BULB FROM THE HEADLIGHT HOUSING. The projections on this style of bulb can hang up on the hole edge, pulling the bulb out and leaving it in the headlight housing. I had one in the housing for about a year until I had to replace the whole unit due to fogging / yellowing. Silver lining: you can refit the fixture with a bulb installed with the 'spare' still in the headlight housing. The extra bulb is not too embarrassingly obvious either.

Thank you. It worked awesome.!! Only issue I had was I needed to cork the vent line before the water flowed in the right direction. again thanks saved us from a plumber.

Thank you for the video.

Thank you! Saved me atleast $60 but up to $900!

I was getting the i30 code and this fixed my problem. The drain pump ran continuously and I used compressed air to clean the switch. Thanks!

How do you get the rubber grips off the footpegs ?

What's the name of this model

This pressure sensor is basically a wrong design from the beginning

I built a version of this today and it worked like a charm!! I’d buy you a case of beer if I could

I have the same Schwinn airdyne bike, but it's missing the seat, seat post, adjustment knob, and the clamp. Can someone please tell me what is the exact seat post size? And is there suppose to be a clamp that holds the post?

We have the Electrolux Dishwasher Model number : EI24ID50QS0B. Thank you so much for posting this. I was getting i20, i30 and sometimes even i10. "Over-Troubleshooting" led me to tearing apart front door to clean seals really good. I actually found a small piece of broken plastic in the drain pump about a week ago thinking that was a for sure fix. Several days and several failed cycles (and a few successfuls here and there), your video led to a 5 minute fix. My sensor was filled with caked in Gel Cascade. ... And To EE101 - Yes, the Software on mine seems very very very touchy. After you start it, LEAVE IT ALONE... or it will get very Mixed up. Happy to be getting back to a working dish washer.... Does a Lot of Work in our Home.

We had this problem, lots of times. Replaced the small drainage tube which was full of stuff. Kept getting the i20 error for about 9 months, at which time the thing got totally plugged and just wouldn’t drain at all. Talked with the repair guys who said if it was the pump it really wasn’t worth the cost to replace. Resigned myself to purchasing a new machine, but kept trying it over the course of the week. Bailed out the standing water by hand, preparing to take it to the dump. Tried running it a couple more times, and suddenly it just started working again. I ran several sanitize cycles, empty, with a cup of vinegar in a container on the top shelf each time. That was two weeks ago, and no errors since. Running regular cleaning cycles from now on.

Just cleaned the sensor on ours and so far so good, many thanks for posting!

mine sounds like its draining constantly, have to unplug to get it to stop... it drains the sump area.. but when I unplug water fills the bottom of the sump again..shows the i30 code.. Drain hose problem? Maybe not properly siphoned?

The drain king version with the brass tip on the output end should work without it spraying out too early

Hey Larry. Not 100% sure if you're pointing to the small hose or the plastic white piece with the wires coming from it. I believe it's the small white piece with wires. If so, where is the clip on the bottom? I'm not having any luck here. Thanks!