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After checking everything (MAF, Intake, Sensors were fine) it was a bad throttle body, replaced it the engine ran like new 👌

Hey that’s true! You must be careful not to put too much 👌

You have to pop off the top part of the outside frame which goes around the whole stereo, pull it up and off, the you will gain access to the tray. You will find two clips which hold it in place on the sides. Use a very thin and small flat head screwdriver to push the clip in and pull it out just a bit to get it away from the frame so it doesn’t jump back in. Do the same for the other clip on the other side. You should have no problems with it, it comes out pretty easy and should only take a few minutes. Hope it helps. Cool 👍

@@CarRestorations5150would this be similar to the mk4 golf/ mk1 Leon?

Hey, there is a small possibility that it could be the throttle body but I think it will more likely be either a clogged fuel filter (only a few bucks to change) or your fuel pump is on its way out, it stops pumping therefore not enough fuel gets to your injectors and not enough pressure therefore cuts out. Or it could also be one or two injectors are clogging up or on there way out. Best thing would be to get the car computer read for fault codes, preferably using VCDS Diagnostics (should also only cost you a few bucks) and that way you’ll have a better idea of the fault codes the engine is logging. And at the same time VCDS will also give you readings of all the fuel injectors. Readings should be no more than + or - 1.5 on each injector. Once it passes +1.5 or -1.5 (ie. -1.7 or + 1.8) you need to replace that injector as it’s not performing as it should. What you preferably want it the reading to be as close to 0 as possible. This means your injectors are fine and the problem is else where. Then I would change the fuel filter. Diagnostics first then fuel filter that way you have a clear idea and haven’t spent only a few bucks. Hope it helps. Cheers 👍

Hey, you can use a Stanley knife or box cutter to carefully cut them off from the side one in place. Just make sure you have a firm grip on it and hold it in place so it doesn’t fly back out the side as this can easily happen. Cool hope it helps 🤘

Hey thanks for the comment. After further diagnosis and testing of MAF, intake manifold and rubber gaskets it turned out that it was the throttle body itself. Cleaning did not help at all. Installed new one, calibrated it and engine ran beautifully like new 😁

Main symptoms include jumping and unstable revs on idle when watching the rev indicator you will see it jumping. The worse the TB gets the higher the indicator will jump eventually not starting the engine at all. It should also log an intermittent fault in the computer when scanned with VCDS on engine

Use zip ties to push it in all the way, tighten right up, install then cut zip tie with box cutter and it will jump into position. Just make sure you have positioned it correctly in place and hold it firmly so it doesn’t jump back out. Hope it helps 👍

Sorry for delay new videos on their way from new workshop 😁

Looks like you need to replace it. How did you go with it? Fixed?

Hej, could be a couple of things. Most likely either the clutch slave or master cylinder, the master is it’s up behind the the clutch pedal on the inside and goes through the fire wall. Could also be the clutch fork inside the actual clutch that’s not engaging gears. Or it could be that your clutch plate is totally gone and not engaging at all once the clutch plate / engine is turning. I would check the simple things first like brake fluid level as the brake and clutch share the same fluid (Dot4 normally) to check if it’s not leaking out somewhere, or if it hasn’t already. Then check to see if you have a leak inside the gear box, look for any fluid running down anywhere. If gearbox/transmission has no oil you’ll have problems shifting gears. From there it’ll be a bit more complex as it’ll be a trial and error thing, you’ll just have to start replacing parts and see what fixes it. Start with the slave then master clutch cylinder as its pretty cheap only a few bucks ($20 - 30) mostly labour intensive. Then if that doesn’t fix it I would take the gearbox of and take a look at the state of the clutch plate and fork witch engages the clutch it’s self. Sorry to say if the slave or master clutch cylinder doesn’t fix it it’ll be a bit more of a complex job (time consuming). But if you take it to a mechanic he’ll do exactly the same thing, it’ll just cost you heaps more as you’ll pay an arm and a leg for labour costs and then parts on top of that. Sorry I couldn’t help more but it’s hard to say exactly without starting somewhere and working up from there. Good luck with everything and hope you manage to find it and sort it. My issue was similar in that it got hard to engage first and second gear, harder and harder as time went on and then once engaged clutch pedal started sticking and would not return to original position and stayed pushed it. In my case ended up being a bad master clutch cylinder. I think I even did a quick short vid on it. Anyway hope you get it sorted 👍

@CrazyMechanic5150 hey bud thanks for being so thorough with as much info to help me. So i went and looked at my brake Reservoir tank and fluid is below the min line. I dont see any leaks at the clutch slave on the gearbox, around and under the reservoir its dry. Do our 2002 audi a4 1.8t b6 quattros have a slave at the foot pedal.. ill have to take a look in morning with more light so cramped around footwell. I hope my faults are slave cylinder issues. Cause abt yr ago car had clutch replaced with a sach hd performance clutch with smf.. my clutch pedal isnt stuck to the floor and springs up so potentially that rules out clutch fork. Issue im detecting is theres no pressure to clutch to release so i can get into gear. Clutch does feel spongey.

@@CarRestorations5150real one💯

You need to check your throttle body, my guess is it’s gone bad and needs replacing. Easy way to test this is getting a used good one and swapping it over, and them perform a throttle body alignment. You should see a difference straight away and stable idle. It’s not a big job just remove 4 screws holding the throttle body in and swap in the new / used one and put the 4 screws back in. Simple 15 min job. You need to get VCDS for the throttle body alignment. On a RHD car it is on the top rear of engine slightly to the right. On a LHD car it should be on the other side back top and slightly to the left. You can’t miss it, it is a larger black box with 4 screws in each corner. Hope this helps 👍

Hi, sorry about that. Multimeter is measuring ohms and is set to 200 ohms. Hope it helps

Hey, thank you, I’m glad I could help. ✌️

Hey, it’s a 5 speed manual

Hi, thanks for your comment. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

Appreciate it, many thanks

Hey, thanks for the comment sure will do. I already shot the video, just editing. Will upload very soon. Stay tuned! Been getting my hands dirty into an VW engine rebuild and a Audi exhaust change but have shot a fair few iphone vids too. Got so many videos to upload ;)

They are all pretty much similar, only vary slightly from model to model depending on battery size.

Great eye 👌 new strips where used but got lost somewhere in editing the vid

No that's fine no problem at all. Won't damage anything nothing to worry about

buy a new I Phone 37, lol. Kidding, good luck with the repair. I'm going to attempt this as soon as my battery gets here from Amazon.

Hey, You need to double check the small flex cable if it is connected correctly to the connector. The flex is very thing and fragile on the home button. Must be very very careful when handling the home button. If you've done it correctly it is just not plugged in correctly. Wish you luck ;)

Hey thanks heaps much appreciated!

It will still be there

Correct it will still be there just like @napsteraja said