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THANKIOUPR❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

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There must be a local football pitch near by thats always in use!!!

It's no fun working on projects when it's freezing cold, cheap spot lights from China are notorious for letting water in I will have to replace mine in the near future. Your motor is gonna be like wembley stadium with all the lights everywhere 🤣👍

I highly appraciate this movie and asking for more.all his movies are very educational😮❤

I also say run it, maybe it’ll get chucked past the valve into the exhaust manifold either hole or in bits… nowt left to lose as I see it.. I reason it’ll clear itself out… then spend a few quid and flush cylinders and sump well.

If you are going to scrap or dispose of the engine and/or car now. How about just running the engine and see what happens ? Diesel engines are quite tough , it may survive the clip being in there. The clip might get smashed up into smaller pieces that may exit through the valves, or the bits of clip may melt in the heat of combustion and stick to the piston crown or possibly the head. Is there anything to lose by trying it 🤔?

Another way is try & fish it out with a flexible small headed magnet

As you said you had to try.

I feel with you !! Discolife sometime force too much

At least you tried Derek 😢

Well, it was worth trying. Did you feel any airflow from the intake manifold when you sprayed air into the injector hole? By feeling the airflow, you might find the spot where the intake valve is most open. Perhaps the airflow could be optimized somehow, for example by spraying air with a long enough tube to reach the piston surface, so that the flow hits the part from the side rather than from above. Of course, inserting a thin tube through the intake manifold into the combustion chamber and applying sufficient vacuum could also be a way to remove the part from the combustion chamber. The vacuum could grip onto the part. You could test the appropriate tube thickness and vacuum strength on another part before inserting the tube into the engine. Additionally, the tube could be guided with the help of a camera to improve precision.

I wonder did it even move?

I put also the blanking plate but engine is still weak and canot run above 2500rpm and after of 2-3 minutes on iddling again EAC appears on dashboard. Maybe I should do reprogramming .with car computer unit (ECU)

fantastic movie but 3 years I can not find a solution for my EAC issue which pops up on my dashboard after one or 2 minutes and engine can to reach more than 2500 rpm,, I changed all filters and sensors and zero improvement.

Oh no! We’ve all done something similar at sometime. I once dropped a washer from the accelerator linkage on the carb into a small gap under the inlet manifold on the Charger. Managed to get it out with a couple of small screwdrivers, was a nightmare though. Don’t feel too bad about it, it’s just one of those things

Well, that was an unfortunate development. Commiserations! If it was me, I’d pull the head, remove the pin and put it back together again - giving it a good cleaning in the process. The ratty looking cam lobes will most likely run well for years and I’d start using a full synthetic oil once it’s back to running. It’s a lot of work to do and you’ll still just have an old car at the end. I’m back in the US right now and have been keeping my 2000 Honda Odyssey minivan (205,000 miles) and my wife’s 2004 Ford Focus (85,000 miles) up to date with routine maintenance - and they’re both running great, with just very minor issues. I plan on keeping both until it makes no sense to keep them. That’ll be decided by the arithmetic at the time. This work and the video on Old Stinky was very timely. Just like last year, I’ll be back in Oxford in April and my first ‘car’ work will be on my ‘06 1.4 tdci Fusion. Last summer it got towed back to Oxford by AA from Torquay where it had a big diesel leak which neither I nor they could get repaired in that locality on a reasonable schedule. So, I’ll be digging into the top of the engine to replace the leak-off pipes, clean the head, redo and clean the injectors. I’ll be getting the injector refreshing kit with new copper washers to which I’ll be adding my own copper sheet washers so as to ensure I get maximum down-force on the injector clamps. I reckon that’s worth a try so as to avoid (or postpone) gas leakage past the copper washers …. which is a chronic issue with these engines. I expect I’ll run into ‘surprises’ …. but I absolutely WILL plug the holes as soon as the top is off. So, fwiw, if you like the car otherwise, get the head off and get the pin out. Shame to chuck out an otherwise decent car over such a small issue. I mean, all your cars will likely need a clutch at some point - just like tyres or brakes - it’s a routine repair. And cheaper than getting another car … which might be a pig in a poke. Anyway, good luck with it and, as always, I’ve enjoyed your videos of your projects, especially those for Old Stinky. Cheers, Peter J/

The intro amused me. The quiz.🤣🤣 Sorry to learn of your misfortune. It happens to the best of us and hindsight is a wonderful thing. I dont know how big the hole is but those extendable sticks with a magnet on the end wouldn't be any good would it?

If the clip will pass through the injector hole I would persevere with vacuum. Scale down the pipe from the hose to a thinner end. If it won't go through the injector hole then I think I would give up. Feeling your pain. 😪

I followed your video when I replaced the seals last time. Dropping something into those holes is my worst nightmare. How about using some pressurized air in the injector hole? The vacuum cleaner would work better if there were more replacement air. Or perhaps applying a tiny bit of thick grease to the magnet you're using-just enough to help, but not so much that it causes the clip to stick to the piston head-and then trying to get the clip to adhere? You could use a camera to help and lift the clip through the injector hole, hoping this would make it easier to vacuum. Then, using the exhaust valve hole, vacuum the clip.

I've got the same problem with my 2006 Fusion 1.6. It runs fine, but get in slow Leicester traffic and it bubbles and boils. I recently swapped out the thermostat and housing, and smugly thought I'd sorted it. Got stuck in Friday afternoon traffic and she suddenly errupted in steam. Coolant was spraying out from under the yellow cap on the expansion bottle. Reading a thread on Talk Ford, someone suggests it's a hairline crack and replacing the expansion bottle has cured it, as the crack stops the system pressurising as it should.

Saw your other video where you change the resistor ting next to radiator and now this video. My problem is, car sitting overnight (cold), in the morning start and switch off after 2 - 3 minutes low speed fan stays on 5 - 10 minutes or engine computer turns it off. Any ideas why low speed comes on on a cold engine?

You beaut

Exact same model and engine bay look for a 2009 1.6l fusion and exact same issue here. Boiling over tank,steam coming through cap I got sensor problems it seems. Will change it tomorrow following your videos. Did it solve your issues in all by doing this?

😎

Disco is testing you Alltime how fit you are!!

How many Miles you run before you change the oil?

seems you more downunder?!😀

Hallo . Same Job I have to do and stop leaking the LT77!! Discovery you never stop discovering!?

I have a 2015 1.6 vivaro. Wont rev over 2k rpm underload. But revs freely out of gear. Its being a headache. I have maf sensor and high voltage circuit on boost sensor. So ive ordered two vauxhall parts. But get the feeling these just wont fix it. Only on 90k. No smoke. No rattles. Although cylinder 4 glow plug has a small amount of oil or diesel around it. I wonder is this also an issue. But my luck the egr and turbo are down the back of the engine tight to the firewall apparently its a drop the subframe job. Any advice would be appreciated.

Hello came across your video, very helpful, as looking to, do my own oil change, may I ask what mileage, is best to carry out the interval oil service many thanks,

Hi Derek, 15 ton to get out the bush????!!!. One thing I learnt with land rover lights is to change all of bulbs in the cluster. Check for corrosion in the holders and one thing that caught me out was the connector negative wire was rusted inside the plug. Hope you are well, and JUG's gets certified, for her chauffer to take her out on the road again.

I only have a issue with the glow plug light on the dash no other lights then the van goes into limp mode I’ve had the turbo pressure sensor replaced ecg valve replaced then again the light came on and limp mode again I give up this issue has been a burden for two years now I converted the van into a camper hense why I still have it , I need help

I did mine only jacked up took the wheel off get to the bolts better Impact gun

Not easy scrambling around with limited working space on the drive. You've done well. Why wasn;t the garage interested in doing it they would have had it so much easier with ramps etc. 👍

At least now it's done its good for another 15 to 20 years or so👍

I'm the same. Scrambling around on the floor at 65 is hard work 😅 job well done, and as you said, nothing too difficult, but many garages don't like working on the D2 in particular no problem though I keep taking the ibuprofen and carry on fella 😀

I have my bushes to do to but if you feel you need the practice 😂😂

Hi Derek, was there any bushes in the spares I gave you? Trying to remember which ones they where. That's the problem with disc 2 it like a big shelter underneath. Many time's I've have had to check and remove vagrants, before moving off. Thanks for the sound track of the TD5 burbling away. Miss it.

I really don't envy you that job and I'm glad to see you're making good progress....I really didn't expect those bolts to come out that easily!

I would go with genuine bushes. I did mine one side at at a time to keep things in line.👍

Thanks , super

Well, of course the oil leak from the gearbox isn't "excessive". The gearbox only holds about 3l of oil so if it WAS excessive, it'd have stopped by now. O_o Don't forget to paint the radius arm yellow while you've got them off. Off-road stuff works better when it's yellow.

Hi Derek, did my C spanner on the D2. Most bushes came out with 1 ton of force but one took 4 ton. Easy job with borrowed press. Just do one side at a time. You might need a ratchet strap to keep things in place and to line up the holes when putting back in. Advice, use new bolts and nuts. Like to see a Landrover without oil leak on MOT.

Thanks for share You will solve it Discovery 2 Drivers Know How!!!

Thanks man your videos have been very helpful with my fusion 👍👍

Plus Gas is the best didn’t think anyone used it except me

I'm sorry you didn't get a pass on your MOT and hope the bushes job goes well. I had to smile at your 'oil leak but not excessive' the oil must be keeping the corrosion away🤣

As you say they always seem to have to mention oil leaks. At least you know what's needed so hopefully you'll soon have it sorted.👍

great video. im hoping this helps with my current problems. thx for sharing.