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Actually although bi-wiring does have a lower resistance it is not quite as good as "dual wiring" meaning two parallel wires running to the same biding posts from the same amp outputs. And of course dual wiring is just as silly for your speakers as it would be for the AC power cords leading to a blender or a toaster. It is untidy and messy compared to using one wire of an adequate gauge in the first place.

I usually just right click the video and select "Loop" to put it in an infinite repeat so you simply wait 21 seconds and your target postion replays, but thanks!

The gel does block air transfer so theoretically they may get hot/sweaty after prolonged use in warm weather. I use them year round without issue but different people have a different sensitivity to this. The sound quality, if anything, seems slightly better because they create a better seal which is important for deep bass extension.

Lucky for me the connections on my speakers are on the back so they are invisible from view unless you make it a point to walk up to them and examine the back. . . .which I don't.

Wow. You were in the right place at the right time and it became a lifelong memorable event. I hope some day I will be as fortunate.

Thanks for commenting. Some points: I agree the cartridges may have made the biggest difference (the expensive turntable used a $13,000 cartridge and the one on the inexpensive AR-XA was about $12,900 less). Audio Research, by the way, is a distinctly different company which appeared much later than Acoustic Research, but I have seen many people confuse the two before. . . makes me wonder if they, Audio Research, named their company hopping this mistake would indeed occur! The LP record played on the inexpensive AR-XA was a standard one I bought recently on Amazon and the expensive turntable was playing a special audiophile-grade pressing from MoFi costing $125.

In this video I'm using this speaker wire: www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Access-Gauge-Conductor-Speaker/dp/B01LXPLGBY

Active Bi-amping means each amp receives a pre-filtered signal containing either just the highs or the other one which gets just the lows, by the use of an external, electronic crossover. Ideally you also remove the speaker's internal passive crossover because it is no longer needed (in fact it even wastes a small amount of power) because you have already filtered the signals which then should go straight to the drivers.

Brass? Most jumpers I encounter are gold plated and electricity largely travels over the outside of the conduit. What speakers do you use?

Bummer. What brand are they? Any shot you could open up the plug and resolder the L/R swapped wires?

​@@m.zillch3841 Glad I did not need to do that, normally iem cables will have clear L/R markings but obviously mine didn't, I went into this the unbothered because the inverted stereo did not really bother me, but interchanging the cables w.r.t. the shells worked.

Based on my examination of the Cambridge Soundworks Tower II speaker binding posts online, they appear to be nearly the same as the Polk speakers I show in this video: The gold plated metal bars, aka "jumpers", should be left in place so connecting to either the top two binding posts or the bottom two doesn't matter electrically, because they are effectively coupled together as one entity. A SINGLE run of speaker wire should be used (so NOT bi-wiring) to the amp with the red/positive (+) lead connected to the position labelled as such and the remaining one, the black/negative (-), connected to other.

@m.zillch3841 Okay thanks, I appreciate it .

It's actually a bit more complex than what I wrote but here's what I know: RUclips can tell what your connection speed is and will vary the bit rate downward if it knows you are only on a slow connection like when using a cellphone. Stable Volume OFF means although they may normalize the volume to their other videos, they won't compress the dynamic range of the content so a 10dB peak in the music remains as a 10dB peak. Using 1080pHD isn't a bullet proof guarantee you will receive the best sound they offer but seems to help ensure you get their best codec called "OPUS (251)". You can check to be sure you are getting that by right clicking the video image on a PC and selecting the option "Stats for Nerds". Here they will list the most data they are willing to share and if you see "OPUS (251)" as the audio codec then you hearing the content as best they offer, in 2024 at least. I believe it's a variable bit rate so not a static value.

@@m.zillch3841 Hi ! i cheacked yes opus 251 codec I asked because i read a max bit rate of 128kbs for audio through RUclips Anyway i have been very impressed by your comparison between a top high end system and using this turntable Could have been some bad settings with the hyper expensive system ? i was shocked I read excellent things about this AR turntable Very excellent as rare Lucky you Thanks a lot again kind regards gino

"Placebo effect" (expectation bias) would be my call, which is why the only legit audio tests are conducted under blind (ideally double blind) conditions.

As explained at 3:54, there is no speaker crossover in proper bi-amping (aka "active bi-amping"), only an electronic crossover (working at line level) which feeds only the highs to the tweeter's amp and only the lows to to woofer's amp, but in more typical consumer bi-amping (aka "passive bi-amping" or called "fool's bi-amping" by some people, like Chuck Hawks) both amps receive a full-range signal and a speaker crossover is necessary. The gray box denoting the speaker crossover is replaced with the text " simplistic version" in some images showing how the concept is often MARKETED to users, however in truth the speaker's crossover is not bypassed in passive bi-amping, nor bi-wiring, as shown at 7:24.

Belt: Amazon (not a precision genuine replacement, but is works. [Linn makes precision belts but last I checked they were $115, so way too pricey] Belts need to be "talc-ed", i.e. shaken w/talcum powder in a zip lock bag, per manual. Mat: "Hudson HIFi silicone" also not ideal, but it works. At least when used with the Shure cartridge's brush I have almost no static noise nor cling. Rubber (neoprene?) grommets for suspension springs: my local Ace hardware store's nuts and bolts department in their "various suspension springs" drawer [I bought the last three I saw and have never seen them replenish that drawer, so I guess I lucked out] Search for "cone spring grommets", maybe? Not sure of the dimensions, but here's a lead: rubber-grommet.com/round-grommets-type-a/

I originally just used common 3-1 oil but finicky people claim the exact type matters. [That, like many things in audio, may just be mythology though.] AR said once their supplied little bottle runs out. . . or gets lost. . . to use sewing machine oil so I bought a little bottle made by Singer.

Some (but not all) motors can be revived by running them for 24hrs straight after a drop of oil.

@@m.zillch3841 Excellent. Thank you.

@@m.zillch3841 Yes. That's my next step. Thanks again.

TechDAS makes several turntables that start with "Air Force" so maybe the one you are seeing is one of them? . . . or a "lightly used" Air Force Zero? The original $500,000 price I quote is for the basic Air Force Zero ($450K) when using their upgraded $50K TUNGSTEN platter, as this 2021 review indeed did: www.stereophile.com/content/techdas-air-force-zero-turntable . . . or maybe the price did drop because of a certain A/B comparison test that's floating around onlune, somewhere? ;)

Speaking of uneven wear on the bearings, have you ever worried that because we constantly press down on the platter with the stylus force on only ONE side of the disc, that we'll unevenly wear out the platter bearing? Not me.

​@@m.zillch3841No, a couple grams of force on one side won't do anything to a good spindle bearing on a level turntable with decent flywheel effect.

This video is about bi-wiring only, discussed in the owners manuals and promotional material for many units. Bi-amping is a completely different topic and then the two varieties of it (active and passive) are themselves completely different. The only one I've ever used is active bi-amping and even then it wasn't to get better sound quality but to get greater control of what frequencies go where.

@@m.zillch3841 well some amps have have 4 speaker output , lebel A B .. if you run both it run them in serri ,, so pluging tweeter to A and wofer to B ,, could make sence ,, in sted or runing speaker from A , and use jumpper on the speaker , so runing the speaker in paralel , i will try it some day ,, i have speaker dual input and amp with A B ,

@@darkphotographer Amps that have separate terminals, A and B, which suggest using them to bi-wire are a scam to trick you. I explain the secret truth they don't want you to know and what is actually happening under the hood when using that setup, using diagrams only (no dialog), here: ruclips.net/video/NJhFxuymlCI/видео.htmlfeature=shared&t=270

Some people are dismayed to discover that when they switch to an expensive turntable the problem persists, because the issue isn't always the turntable; its often the disc itself.

Sorry to hear about your dad. The three springs that provide the isolation (and floppiness) holding the internal platter-and-arm "T-bar" have adjustable tension (you may need to crack off the old glue locks to then allow the tensions nuts to rotate). This means you can use platter mats of almost any weight you want once you re-adjust the spring tightness to accommodate it. Using a heavy (180g or more) record in place, the platter should float about 1/8 inch above the plinth, evenly. The easiest way to adjust the three springs is to unscrew and then slide out the bottom cover, and then elevate the XA on four paint/coffee/soup cans placed under each corner. This allows you to then reach underneath it while in play (be careful to not touch any of the AC wires!) to adjust the nuts (spring tightness). I'd also recommend downloading the original manual and service manual from www.vinylengine.com/library/acoustic-research/xa.shtml (you might need to sign up but it's free). Good luck.

I use this silicone mat, by the way, and I like it: www.amazon.com/Hudson-Hi-Fi-Turntable-Platter-Mat/dp/B071H8DLK5?ref_=ast_sto_dp

@@m.zillch3841 Thanks so much. I went with cork as it was most highly recommended and I didn't have to mess with the springs. By the way, I just have to tell you this is the most amazing breakdown of this near perfect turntable. My oldest is in aerospace engineering, and I felt this would interest him so I sent the link. From an engineering perspective, the ARxa is without equal even in today's world of super over priced and over engineered turntables. Would you know if any turntable manufacturer has ever released a table with the same or similar engineering concept? I do realize that this is a fully manual turntable, but it could easily be built with auto return. I know later AR's had queuing as well.

@@ChristopherJanisch-cc5nc The floating sub-chassis concept was copied by many but they didn't always execute it correctly, including Linn, Thorens, and SME. Off the top of my head I don't know of any with automation but at least one company makes an aftermarket auto arm lift called a "little fwend" named after the Scarface movie I guess. It is important that the frequency of natural resonance of the floating sub-chassis part be very low, around 4 Hz if I recall, and the AR was carefully designed such that the center of mass of the three points (the three springs) is intentionally weighted to be coincident with the center of the three springs, which form an equilateral triangle. This keeps things stable and a quick return to equilibrium when jostled from foot fall and guests' dancing. You want three springs, not four, for the same reason a camera tripod has three legs: it self levels to any new environment (a new shelf or stereo system rack) instantly on its own without any user adjustments necessary, plus the load on each spring is the same. Dumb copycats use four springs, not three, or non--equilateral triangles, so they end up having unequal loading on the springs and can wobble and oscillate like a bobble head toy or a bad table at a restaurant.

@@m.zillch3841 Thanks for the detailed answer. I thought I recalled you saying it was attempted but never copied perfectly. Interesting.