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Amazingly quick without annoying music, thank you Sir.

Greetings congratulations, excellent work Could you please provide me with drawings? Thank you

Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial video. You did a great job explaining what you were doing and why. I am incorporating the slide lock notch right now😊

Sadly I experienced so much trouble trying to see what was going on but the lack of any real "light" for the camera images made viewing this video not very good & so I gave it away!!

You did a good job with the video. I have this tool, and it worked well on my 2005 Mercedes C230 which has one bleeder screw (single piston design) on each caliper. It did not work well on my 2000 Boxster which has two bleeders (two pistons design) on each caliper. I think the reason it didn't work is because the air compressor I had did not create a sufficient volume of air to work on the Boxster. I totally drained the volume of air available before I could finish bleeding each Boxster caliper. If you have a large capacity air compressor (at least 5 gallons) it should work well. Rather than replace my air compressor, I opted to by a system that pressurizes the master cylinder with a hand pump attached to a container that holds the brake fluid.

Cool....I have Jacks set up....Nice....I like this video

I bought a cheap 18mm gasket punch off eBay to cut my 12 gauge cards. Works OK for my purposes.

You made this 7 years ago, I hope you are doing well. I have a MK9 which is all stainless and a lot heavier. The slides seem to be identical and I really learned from your video and I enjoyed it too. Thank you.

Yesterday, I finished a complete front end on my 380se Mercedes 126. Brakes, calipers, bearings, steering, ball joints tie rods, etc. I am unable to bleed any fluid after several hours 2 man pedal pumping. I think the ABS module has air in it. Do I need to bleed the ABS or just do standard procedure with the HF bleeder? I have a 20 gallon compressor, 4-5 CFM.

Yes, I really appreciate this video. I’m probably going to be replacing my convertible top soon unless you’re for hire ???😊Im a sous chef so I can cook you dinner for you and your wife every night❤ until it’s done--I got this car about the same time you were doing the video -it belonged to the Mitchum family --yep her Uncle was Robert Mitchum her father, John Mitchum her aunt Gloria Graham, so when she left me the car, I had a new engine put in. It’s still has a five year warranty, and I haven’t even driven it but 800 miles in the first 3years on the new engine, gonna make it a Hollywood silver screen car, I only drive with top down, sheer bliss --except that I had 2 go back home 2 Oregon ☔️ 🌧️ 😢.

So do you press the trigger on the vacuum pump before breaking the bleeder valve loose? Also seen people use grease instead of anti seize. Idk what your take is on that.

Great job

Only commenting here on the dry-firing nonsense. This is only true for rimfire, not centerfire. Modern firearms (post-1960) suffer no damage from dry firing. As a former US Marine who spent half of my career as an armorer, I can tell you from experience that dry firing does nothing but good for a soldier and civilian firearm owners. It's called "snapping in". The firearms that go through thousands of boot camp cycles and experience hundreds of thousands of dry fires throughout their service lives, see very little component failures, for any reason. Theres a big difference between wearing out from stress of use vs component failure from manufacturing flaws. If a component breaks during dry fire, then youve found a flawed part that you didn’t want in your firearm to begin with. High wear parts on the other hand, have a service life and will need to be changed out periodically. If you feel better buying snap caps then by all means, do so but don't buy them because someone told you that you're going to damage your firearm by dry-firing it. The same goes for letting the slide slam home on an empty chamber. These things are standard operating procedures for service weapons.

I've both two of these pumps and I can get anything to come out of the bleeder screw but if I gravity bleed them it works?? Wtf am I doing wrong

I ordered the NOYITO version because they were cheapest and have found they don't work. The NO/COM/NC block doesn't work? The only way to switch the relay on is through the pigtail, and it didn't work long before it melted in my hands, lol. I'll try the exact ones you used next.

All this time I thought I had a wiring issue! LOL! I've got mine torn apart to delete my turn signals and use a LED brake light with integrated turn signals. I knew that I needed a new flasher, but now I know that I NEED THESE!! Thanks!

The best video I ever seen THANK YOU FOR THAT SIR

KILLER TIP ON THAT TEFLON TAPE BROTHA!!!

Just fill the res up after sucking it out and don’t bother with the stupid filler

I used this kit instead of a pickle jar this time. It bleeds pretty slow but I like the auto top off. I pumped the brakes on top of using this and it worked much faster.

Iam glad I found this video, I have an 88 sportster and it's a headache holding in the turn button. Thank you.

Thank you dad. Very helpful video

I like to clean in and around the disassembled primer seating assembly before every use, especially when having problems. I rotate the "cup" 90 degrees when having issues, before taking apart. Sometime that helps. I like to use a "C" clamp to hold the primer seater down while screwing in the Allen Set Screw.

Psi?

This video is perfect. Saved my a$s at work after I tore down the shops 1911 and could figure out the sear spring.

Thanks for the video! My CM9 was both gritty and a jam-a-matic. Dropped the complete slide into the ultrasonic cleaner at work and a whole bunch of metal chips washed out of that little pistola. That was 12 years ago and it has yet to experience a single malfunction after the bath. It is also one of the most accurate pistols I have ever shot.

Hey I have a question my convertible hood is old and peeling which k believe is making it leak on both the driver and passenger side is there something I can do to stop it that doesn’t involve a new hood . Having an operable hood is not important to me

Polish then dry lube sparingly.

best video i've seen on complete 1911 takedown. thank you!

Are you just doing each wheel until clear clean fluid comes out?

Nice video my man.

I put the mag catch in, and cant pull the trigger

Just used this video to take down my Tisas Commander 1911 9mm to replace the trigger. Kudos, sir.

Very nice. Can you share the file

Perfect video demonstration. Thank you. Makes me wanna buy a builders kit.

Thanks so much for this 👍

That happened to me with .45 Colt cases head stamped blank. Worked like a charm for that with no primer set back as blanks.

The biggest problem I had was that (fill in with bad language) disconnector and sear. ). After that no problems. Very good very clear how to do video and it thanks.

great information! i think the sharpening rod is ceramic! gonna get the cw45 been watching every vid about kahr.

Cool video. I found one like this today in a storage unit.

Great video, thanks for taking the time to post this!

Thanks fot sharing, now im more confident bleeding my break

I bought one. It sucks. Pump by foot works better

Thank you so much! This is the best 1911 disassembly AND RE-assembly I have found; some videos don't even show the re-assembly. Thanks for all your tips too!

A person shouldn't have to go through all this crap with a gun. Kahr's are a Chinese POS weapon

this is especially useful with smaller loads for pistol or revolver. Great choice.

Legit video

Very nice. How do you figure-out compression height for a specific spring weight? Is it different depending on the pistol type?

Great demo thanks for explaining 👍👍

Nicely Done! Going to pick one up tomorrow. I've done it the old fashioned way a few times telling someone to pump and hold when I say so and its a long slow process. Your brake fluid looked pretty good, most people let it get to near oil black. Thanks much!