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I do not know about that spray foam is it fire proof and what happens if you have to make a repair , my opinion replace the whole duct system and prevent that spray foam 🤔

@@miltonmerced1362 I would _never_ let them do this to my home! Your thoughts are on the right track. For instance, replace the duct work if old and flexible... don't waste money on duct cleaning old flexible ducts. Use that money for non-flexible replacement. Properly seal and insulate the new ducting. ... If existing non-flexible, cleaning may be the best (cost-effective) option. EXTRA, read if you have time: I am drawing up plans for going with solar mini splits: removing all central AC/furnace components... except I will replace the ducts because mine are old/flexible... install a new blower/cage/case, with better filters than my current 1x... have the blower hooked up to two separate thermostats, or possibly three... so, depending, I can have one or both/all, on or off, and when a certain zone requires air circulation, the thermostat/s can kick on the blower, and I will have whole house circulation, which is good for many reasons... or not I am probably going to use single head/condenser systems, so, even if one is down, the other/s will work, (instead of one condenser with multiple heads). At this point, for sure, I will have two mini splits. I am trying to figure out if I should install three. (My house floor plan is somewhat goofy.) Whatever, each only requires, and comes with, 4 solar panels. With three, each unit will be less expensive, because for my home, they will only need to be 12,000 BTU each, not 24,000... and, they will only need 15 amp/120 volt circuits. For me, pros: NO central AC/furnace components at all! If I choose, not even ducting. Two to three zone AC/heating. ALL DYI! Under half the price of a new central AC/furnace system, which I need, now. (I can hire an HVAC company/tech to do the ducting/blower, but where I live, everyone is price gouging like crazy!) Cons: none! IMPORTANT: Even if not on solar, with my (tri-fuel portable) generator backup system, I have no worry of power outages during anytime of the year, regarding AC/heat, especially since the mini splits will be 15/120, and I can run only one at a time, if I choose. NOTES, for anyone's home: Attic space needs to be completely sealed off from the living areas! Roof system needs proper venting! (I am installing a new roof system.)

BTW, to whoever, for most instances, such as attic insulation, it should be no less than R30. Things like radiant barrier can be added, also. I mention the tidbits because without proper insulation, attic venting, sealing, etc., any added duct insulation is a waste. Do the previous things, first. EDIT Sealing the attic top plates, wire holes, etc., with a foam can/dispenser is the least expensive, and will help a great deal! Of course, I did not mention, because it goes without saying, that an obvious duct leak should be fixed/sealed.

This is a great idea, what does that typically run in electricity cost? Do you run it 24/7? If not, how long does it take to cool down typically? Thanks for any advice!

Hi Darlena. Our apologies. We missed these comments. Answering them now.

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@@mazinblasterzetto9645thanks. I just want a passive way to cool my garage. Wouldn’t vents at the bottom(cool) and vents at the top(rising air) be sufficient?

Me too, in Arizona

for the air intake. yes.

Probably in the attic

Here is a link to lenses, dimmers and accessories: solatube.com/residential/skylights/product-selection-guide#diffusers Give us a call and our team can visit, discuss the options for your space and show you lens options 843-748-0295

I'm pretty sure an answer is coming any day now.

Late but I can answer: Foam board IS suitable for wet locations and moisture has no effect on it. There's no spray foam on the rim joist though. That 1-2 inch gap is a termite reveal.

Disagree.... our garage faces West. In the late afternoon, it can be 90 degrees outside and thermostat inside garage says 98. Fact, I have checked it against several thermometers.

@@topekastealthvb I think we are saying the same thing. Whatever the air outside is, that's the best temperature you will get down to. So there is some benefit. In your example you could get it down to 90 degrees inside - which is what I said in my original comment. But if it is 98 outside you'll at best be 98 inside and waste a lot of air movement for no reduction in temperature. So indeed it is helpful but I stand by my point that if you want to work hard in the garage, you better cool it one way or another or it just won't be comfortable enough at least for me.

Pretty sure these guys are very expensive.