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You’re very welcome, thanks for watching

The body mounts were bad so i was going to replace it regardless of the tailgate install. Figured two birds, one stone. Not sure if you’d be able to get a nut on the back side but probably if you drop the gas tank and cut an access hole.

Thanks Larry, I am so glad that you found it useful.

@@jackiecooper4090 Thanks

@@coopoutdoors6117 your welcome uncle Jeremy!

Well hey Sweet Girl, I hope all is well in your neck of the woods.

@@coopoutdoors6117 All is good, I hope you and the ladies are doing well! It’s been too long!

Hey Harley, thanks for watching. Yes, that output shaft will pull out and dump all the roller bearings in the case. Some folks wire the assembly there on the back to prevent it from moving prior to installing the transfer case. I have also heard to not install the shifter until the T150 and Dana 20 are mated. Once the Dana 20 is mated its not a problem. The housing of the Dana 20 seats against the locking ring on the rear main seal. Hope this is Helpful!

Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.

Thanks Mike, so very happy to hear from you. I hope your project is moving along well.

@@ClydeJesza Good Morning Clyde, thanks for watching. I got those rails from Classic Enterprises. They dont have a part number that I saw. Look for Jeep Outboard Rails - Floor Support CJ5 76-83. www.classicent.com/products/jeep-outboard-rail-floor-support-cj5-76-83 Good luck with your project

@@philmunson7773 you are not wrong sir. Great eye and thanks so very much.

@@philmunson7773 Thanks Phil, I’m glad to see it start to go back together.

@@jimhoran5445 Thanks Jim, getting closer

@@thomassiever8342 Will do, Thanks Thomas

@@karenbergstrom1043 Thanks for watching!! This type video can get long. I got the yoke holding tool from Amazon. a.co/d/1d1mlSe

@@SA-fl7sd Thanks for watching! I hope the video helps.

Thats not good, i think i see where you are talking about. I’ll have to drain the case and see if i can get it out. Thanks for the headsup.

Thanks Phil, over the weekend I sanded it down with 800 grit and sprayed 3 more coats of clear. Thanks for Watching!!

Thanks Jim

Oh Buddy, that would not be good. I'll have to go back and check. Thanks for the headsup and thanks for watching.

Whew, you had me worried. I checked back through the video and looks like I caught the seal issue during editing and ordered a new one and replaced. 27:18 Thanks Again for Watching

Great video. I do have a question. I have a 78 renegade that just had the transmission rebuilt and I and getting a rattling noise in 3rd gear. Spoke with some jeep folks about why and they had mentioned that the wrong gear oil might have been used. Being a cast iron housing I required certain oil. The rebuilder of this thing is no longer around. Have you ever run across this problem? What are you thought on the rattling / chattering ?

@@mitchhull6763 sorry that is happening, it can be frustrating when you pay for something and it not work as expected. I haven’t experienced the chatter but would lean towards something missing or installed wrong during the rebuild. But i am in no way an expert. Good luck with the resolution. Come back and let me know what you find.

@@jimtyrrell5205 Thanks for the kind words. The caps came as part of the rebuild kit from Novak. www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transmission/transmission-parts/t150-parts.html I think the felt washer was an original part that I cleaned and reused. Thanks for watching!!

Thanks Tony

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your project.

Hey Razem, that friend is called struggling, LOL. The tool is an inch- pound torque wrench. We were testing the amount of preload on the pinion bearings. The AMC20 has a crush sleeve that requires a ton of effort to get to crush a small amount. Ideally that pre-load needs to be around 14-16 inch pounds. I went over by a good bit. I am hope that wear will loosen that load. It will have to watched and perhaps rechecked during the 500 mile maintenance. It might have to be replaced in the end. Those crush sleeves are one and done, so if you over torque them, you should really get a new one and start over.

@@javiercenteno7071 , Thanks for watching. Its 2-1/2 inch Check out this page from Summit Racing www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-670256

Greetings, thank you, for your experience it will be possible to install 3-inch pipes, since I see that it is a little uncomfortable due to the transfer, I already have the silencers, they are 3 inches inlet and outlet, and I don't want to make mistakes.

@@javiercenteno7071 that will be tight. It was not easy fitting the passenger side. Maybe if you ran it the same path as OEM.

I will have to consider a reduction to 2 1/2 for the silencers and do the work in 2 1/2 to avoid headaches, thanks for your help.

@@javiercenteno7071 Good luck with your project

Hey Razem, thanks for watching. It should be ok. It will flatten out a hair more once its on the ground and has full weight on it.

Thanks

Thanks

Thank you!!

Good Morning Kevin, are you asking about the bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame?

Yes, sorry I should have been more clear. I bought a bolt kit from throttle down customs but it did not have everything it needed. Interested in knowing both the frame bolt, and the other bolts to connect to the sway bar and bushings. Thanks

Cool, I'll check on those this afternoon. More to come....

Hey Kevin, all the mounting hardware is 7/16x14 i was able to source grade 8 from Lowes. The bolts into the frame are 1 1/4 inch long. The through bolt is 2-1/2 inch long. The bolts through the swaybar clamp is 1-1/4 with washer and nut. The connecting link pin from your swaybar to connecting link can be sourced from Summit Crown Automotive Sway Bar Link Pins J5352787 Let me know if there are any other details you’re looking for and i’ll try to help.

Really appreciate the info and the time to go back and look at those. My project is pretty much at the same spot as yours in this video. Appreciate the help!

Thanks Mike, i’m still going to need another bottle when i get to the front fenders

Thanks Marleigh!!

Thanks Phil, I really appreciate the encouragement.

Good Morning and thanks for Watching! So, I started with an adjustable TO Bearing from Novak. See link, also while there, they have a ton of good info to help. I ordered part# TB2. It will come with instructions. They outline 3 different methods of installing, you'll have to select the one that you think works best for you. I can not provided instructions here but the method I used is outlined in the video between 18:31 and 21:22. Hope this is helpful and good luck with you project. Novak Part# TB2 www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/clutch/adjustable-throwout-bearings/

Thanks Mike

The AC unit is from www.jeepair.com the part number is #CK-7586HC304X. It does have a heater built in so i pulled the old unit out. They also send a cap for your cowl vent and an adapter duct for your defrost. Thanks for watching

Hey Mike, great to hear from you. The AC unit is from www.jeepair.com the part number is #CK-7586HC304X. Thanks for watching, looking forward to your next video

Hey Terry, thanks for watching. The sway bar is OEM. The sway bar links came from www.extremeterrian.com Zone Offroad Front Sway Bar Links for 2 to 4-Inch Lift (76-86 Jeep CJ7) Item #: J184335 Hope this is Helpful, God Bless!

It's a Pittsburgh Automotive 1300 lbs from Habor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/1300-lb-electric-hoist-with-remote-control-62853.html Thanks for Watching!!

Hey Joseph, thanks for watching. On the front i have a 55lb troll.

Hey Jacob go to ftstewart.isportsman.net/ You have to take a safety test and pay for a permit online. Then you’ll be able to print your permit. Have Fun!!

Its been awhile since i’ve looked at it but i think it has a plastic piece that wedges under a stationary rail on the body. I’ll have to pull those parts out and look at the tailgate piece.

Hey James, thanks for watching. Good luck with your project.

Thanks MJ

Thanks for the kind words. Please do reach out, i cant promise to have all the answers but dont mind trying to help you find them. Good luck with your project.

Thanks MJ, I appreciate you watching!

Hey Baker, thanks for watching!

Hey Erik, thanks for watching. I went back and viewed the tear down video and checked my manual and instructions from Novak. All say to put the slinger on the inside of the rear bearing. I have no idea what influenced me to put it after the bearing, LOL. I am not sure what impact this will have in the future but will definitely report back. Check out the last 5 minutes of this video for more insight. ruclips.net/video/tbe-b0NZ35w/видео.htmlsi=XuVSNPKIeH7A2id4 I hope this is helpful and wish you success in your rebuild.

Thanks for watching, Good luck with your project.

Thanks Phil, i left alot of the steering and suspension components loose until i can get more weight on them and shade tree aligned. Thanks for watching!

Thanks Phil

😂 3 minutes 14 seconds. Better question is why at 1:40 did i pass by Glisson Pond to go to Daisy. Sometimes life is more about the journey than the destination. Thanks for watching!