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Claire Shaeffer
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Добавлен 4 янв 2012
Welcome, I am Claire Shaeffer.
I write sewing books and collect vintage fashions. I graduated with honors from a trade-technical school where I learned to make garments at all price points. Later, I graduated summa cum laude with a degree in art history.
I've written hundreds of articles and more than 25 books and videos on garment construction. I, also, design the Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns. I taught college level courses for 22 years. I received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2003 and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award in 2012.
I have an extensive collection of vintage fashions which I use for research.
My RUclips videos focus on museum exhibitions, sewing techniques, and what you can learn and apply from vintage designs.
I write sewing books and collect vintage fashions. I graduated with honors from a trade-technical school where I learned to make garments at all price points. Later, I graduated summa cum laude with a degree in art history.
I've written hundreds of articles and more than 25 books and videos on garment construction. I, also, design the Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns. I taught college level courses for 22 years. I received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals in 2003 and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award in 2012.
I have an extensive collection of vintage fashions which I use for research.
My RUclips videos focus on museum exhibitions, sewing techniques, and what you can learn and apply from vintage designs.
WOW -- The Secrets of a Chanel Jacket
Join Claire Shaeffer to examine an haute couture Chanel jacket from 1965. Photographed in Vogue magazine, Claire will show you the signature elements which Vogue dubbed Chanelisms and how they are used on this classic jacket.
Просмотров: 3 371
Видео
Chanel Designing with Fabric
Просмотров 581Месяц назад
Sewing expert and collector Claire Shaeffer shows you 4 haute couture designs in which Chanel created innovative designs by cutting the fabric apart and sewing it together again in a different way.
Dior's Dress with a Twist
Просмотров 710Месяц назад
Claire Shaeffer takes you behind the seams of this beautiful haute couture skimmer from Christian Dior. She'll describe the dress and show you how it was made.
Electric Light by Charles Frederick Worth
Просмотров 454Месяц назад
Claire Shaeffer shows you the details on this incredible party dress by Charles Frederick Worth. Worn by Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt to the Vanderbilt Ball in 1883, this over-the-top dress showcases the high quality of the design and workmanship typical of the House of Worth. This dress is in the collection of the Museum of the City of New York.
Worth's Embellished Mantle, 1888
Просмотров 7152 месяца назад
Author and sewing expert Claire Shaeffer takes you to the Museum of the City of New York to examine a richly embellished mantle by Charles Frederick Worth from 1888. Claire shows you the design details and the exquisite beading on this handsome wrap.
Dior Red Dress-and the Bias Stay
Просмотров 6 тыс.2 месяца назад
Claire Shaeffer takes you behind the seams to examine this haute couture design from Christian Dior. Designed by Marc Bohan in 1985, the dress has traditional haute couture construction with easy to copy techniques such as the bias stay, cutting bias, covering a shoulder pad, and waist stay.
Chanel Trims on Haute Couture Jackets 1
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.2 месяца назад
Join sewing expert, author, and collector Claire Shaeffer to examine 20 couture Chanel trims and a couple of ready-to-wear trims. The trims include topstitching, lining and blouse fabrics, self-fabric, embroidery, pipings, braid, and beaded trims.
The Complete Book of Shortcuts by Claire Shaeffer
Просмотров 7053 месяца назад
Sewing expert, author, and collector Claire B Shaeffer tells you about her first book The Complete Book of Sewing Shortcuts.According to Claire, there is a shortcut for every sewing technique. The book was published in 1981 and was in print for 30 years. Claire discusses why she wrote the book, some new items in the book as well as criticisms of the book. Although the book is out of print, it i...
Chanel Haute Couture
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.3 месяца назад
Join author and couture expert Claire Shaeffer to examine the design and construction of a 1967 haute couture Chanel. Claire has written over 20 books on haute couture and high fashion construction techniques. Claire shows you why the Chanel construction is unique and extraordinary in this vlog. She describes the double buttonhole and how to make the faux bound buttonhole.
Sleeping Beauties: Reawaking Fashion at the Met
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.4 месяца назад
Sleeping Beauties: Reawaking Fashion at the Met
Couture Trims for Cardigan Jackets
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.4 месяца назад
Couture Trims for Cardigan Jackets
Fly Front Zipper- Abridged Untitled video
Просмотров 5025 месяцев назад
Fly Front Zipper- Abridged Untitled video
Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Fashioning San Francisco: A Century of Style
Chanel cocktail suits 1954 1971 Chanel Manifesto
Просмотров 5647 месяцев назад
Chanel cocktail suits 1954 1971 Chanel Manifesto
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Evening Designs 1909 to 1939
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Evening Designs 1909 to 1939
German--17 Easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing noX4ekJSDCUb5wece8aEb
Просмотров 6738 месяцев назад
German 17 Easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing noX4ekJSDCUb5wece8aEb
French: 17 easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing T3bbXUBNozqIMO0Q8MQow
Просмотров 5888 месяцев назад
French: 17 easy Tailoring Secrets for everyday sewing T3bbXUBNozqIMO0Q8MQow
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Day Dresses & Suits 1909-1939
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Fashion Manifesto: Chanel's Day Dresses & Suits 1909-1939
The Chanel Suit Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto
Просмотров 6 тыс.9 месяцев назад
The Chanel Suit Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto
Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto at the V&A Museum
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Gabrielle Chanel Fashion Manifesto at the V&A Museum
So is Haute Couture just similar to Bespoke? And (2) that means Givenchy is not true Haute Couture, because it's still Mass Produced Ready-To-Ware sitting a Mall or store , instead of Made-To-Order one of a kind only?
Yes, it is similar to Bespoke. Generally Bespoke is used for menswear, but it can be used for women's. Givenchy can have an haute couture collection as well as a pret-a-porter or ready-to-wear collection. Some couture houses-have 2 lines of ready-to-wear-one more expensive than the other.
The colors in the fabric are incredible! 💖
Yes, they are and these photos don't do them justice.
@@claireshaeffer7616 the close ups do! 💞
Soo beautiful and interesting. I treasure your videos. Important that the history of these works of art are never forgotten. 💝
I wonder, is that chain smelly? I’m allergic to various metals used in faux jewelry and cannot stand the smell some of those pieces have. Lovely jacket, the buttonholes look rudimentary in comparison to the ones made by machinery. The Victoria and Albert Museum youtube channel has a wonderful documentary about one of Lauren Bacall’s Chanel suit, maybe you can compare the two jackets!
I love your channel Ms Shaeffer. A small tip, we all do umms and errs when talking but you can have those pauses edited out.
thx
I have been collecting designer Vogue patterns from the 1900s, and am intrigued by the great variety of jackets that often come as part of a dress outfit, and also by dress coats. Perhaps a video on the subject.
Linda, I'll put it on my list. Thx for the suggestion.
Enjoyed the review.
As a weaver I’m fascinated by the actual cloth. I’ll be having a go a replicating it one day
I have always been intrigued with Chanel jackets. Thanks for sharing
The biggest design fault is not matching the back centre seam, surely a basic error
Barbara, the fabric appears to be a random handwoven weave which could not be matched.
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for showing us behind the seams of this jacket.
Will there be a video about the dress that is under the jacket ?
No, I only have the skirt, but I have the dress for another suit.
Daunting! I appreciate your breakdowns of these garments. These skills may become "lost" but you are providing a great documentation to help circumvent that!!
Thank you! I always enjoy your 'tour' of iconic clothing - and learn something every time too.
It appears beautiful. Did you find it well-constructed, and were you satisfied?
Yes and I learned a lot from it.
Thank you so much!Very interesting!I love that they are a lots of hand stitches!Lovely!
Oh another delicious post, thank you. My American Mother in law was a socialite long ago was not present in my life until I was an adult had a few pieces of Haute Couture but by the time I thought of asking her if she had any interesting fashion items she had already sold them for pennies to a reseller who moved in her circle of friends. Here in Tokyo the chances of me picking up a Haute Couture piece at a flea market are very very slim.
If possible, ask her about her HC experiences--anything she remembers.
@@claireshaeffer7616 Hello!! I wish I had asked her about her fashion experiences but before I had a chance again she unfortunately passed a few years ago.
Thank you. This is utterly fascinating. have been following you since I got your books when they first came out.
Thanks Claire! It always amazes me to take a peek inside these garments....the seamstresses must have handled the garment pieces so carefully to avoid unravelling of seam edges. Do you think they basted the edges until the end of construction, and then removed it carefully at the end?
Remember--the toile (pattern) was developed on the client's dress form so there wasn't a lot of fitting needed for the jacket itself. Also, the work was handled carefully and kept on a table. Lastly, they could have started with extra wide seam allowances and trimmed them at the end.
A lovely tour. *_*
My lord this is marvelous ❤❤❤❤❤ thank you.
If I am honest, I could never really understand wherein the beauty lays in Chanel fashion (not Lagerfeld). Only the handwoven texture seems to me attractive. Chanel means for me the end of the feminine era. But I do appreciate your channel, Mrs Shaeffer, for understanding techniques. Thank you!
It would be a boring world if we all like the same things. Thanks for your post. Claire
So much information, as my mom used to say, "the simpler the dress or jacket the hards it is to make correctly."
Yes, because there are no ruffles to hide your crooked seams in.
Maybe you can answer this, what is the weight of chain used? Thats been puzzling me for some time.
The chains used to be brass--now just gold-colored or silver. They look like a curb chain and are about 1/4" wide. I buy chain at Britex Fabrics in San Francisco.
@@claireshaeffer7616 excellent and thank you! This gives me a good guideline. I can get some brass in NYC. Much appreciated.
You don't want alluminum or lightweight jewelry
@@claireshaeffer7616 I know where to get brass. And if they don't have it in stock, the hardware store does.
Thank you! So much fun to see inside and hear your commentary! I cannot help thinking, “Can I do that on my garments?” ❤
Why not?
super
I absolutely love this suit and had never seen it before. As I often tell people, Chanel suits were not office wear, they were "Dallas ladies do lunch." I would love for you to explain how the "false" blouse cuffs were done inside the jacket sleeves. Often, my suits are worn with various blouses and doing the snap in cuffs would be oh, so nice.
Wonder if you think that the tenure of Viard over the House of Chanel has diminished the integrity of the Chanel and Lagerfeld tenures. And who next?
This is a good example of the Peter principle--when someone is doing a great job, then gets promoted. For various reasons, the new job may not be a fit. Lagerfeld was a tough act to follow. During the period between Chanel's death an Lagerfeld, there were several designers until they found the right match for the Chanel customer. It's hard to know exactly what happened with Viard; and it could be a change in what the customers want.
@@claireshaeffer7616we will probably never know the real reason. The fact is that during Viards tenure sales were up, the brand was doing very well, so there must have been differences that were more idealogical, or the new management wanted to take the brand to another level which involved more drastic modern changes. It's a very tricky situation, and the near future will show their intentions.....
@@claireshaeffer7616I actually didn’t like Viard’s interpretation of Chanel. She just kept doing what Lagerfeld was doing and the brand didn’t evolve at all. I never really liked Lagerfeld’s Chanel either as he made it tacky. I hated his overdone branding and all the very German tacky Chanel logos and way too much leather and nonsense. Chanel needs to be reinvented by a younger designer and to strip back all the horrific gold and silver bling, chains and logos. Only tacky rich nouveau riche Asians wear Chanel nowadays. Coco Chanel herself never did all that branding - she had a little bit of chain here and there, but Lagerfeld campified her style and it was atrocious. I would like to see someone like Phoebe Philo take on Chanel’s creative direction. I don’t think Daniel Roseberry is appropriate nor Marc Jacobs. Jacobs is outdated now and his style is too kitschy and campy. Roseberry is way too theatrical and that’s not what a Chanel is. Chanel requires a more restrained and classical cut and approach. A very young Giorgio Armani or a very young Donna Karan would’ve been perfect.
There is no difference between home sewing and couture. The difference experience and craft quality of the sewer. Your videos are a waste of time and nonsensical. As if we can't sew the same quality as they do in Paris. I'm assuming couture you mean not just made to order French couture.
Fred, thank you for your post, but I disagree. There are many differences between traditional home sewing techniques and haute couture. That said, home sewers can use haute couture techniques and create the same quality as Paris. Generally, when I use the term couture, I am referring to made-to-order French garments.(The same or similar techniques are used by couture houses in Italy and the UK.) Ready-to-wear techniques are not couture, but they can also be used by homesewers. In the United States, expensive ready-to-wear (RTW) is called "couture." The techniques may be different from less expensive RTW, but they are still RTW. I began writing about haute couture techniques more than 40 years ago because I believe homesewers can use them to improve their sewing skills. Often, HC techniques are quite similar to a technique which homesewers already know, but it is applied in a different way or for a different purpose. Again, thank you for your post.
This is not a secret these are all either common sense or common knowledge.
Good morning Fred; I agree. They are not secrets; but they are hints which will improve the skills of most homesewers--especially those who are new or less experienced and those who have had limited opportunities to take sewing classes or tutorials. Do you have some "secrets" which you are willing to share? If so, I hope you will.
For me as a beginner these tips are very valuable. Thank you Mrs Shaeffer! I appreciate it very much.
I love everything you do! I was a Paris seamstress in three past lives. I spent my childhood this life in "Grapes of Wrath" country, Bakersfield, CA. I think my mom subscribed to Vogue magazine. I cut out for my scrapbook the picture of a Dior gown that was strapless with a bodice of white peau de soie covered in rhinestones and pearls -- and layers of pale pink tulle gathered to a dropped waist! Was that 1954? I loved my junior high sewing classes. My mom struggled to sew nice things. Sheer ruffled curtains, Easter dresses, and a classy red wool princess coat which ended up in a "Care" package to Holland along with coffee, sugar and chocolate! I long to get back to making my own clothes -- very simple but the best fabrics and full bust adjustment! Thank you!
Your comments are always a delight!
Claire, you are doing god's work. This is so brilliant and the amount of detail in your description of each garment is truly masterful. Thank you, a million times.
Thank you. I really appreciate your comments. I enjoy what I do. I hope to have a new video--Inside a Chanel Jacket soon.
@@claireshaeffer7616 Eagerly looking forward to that :)
Thank you, Claire! I am so excited to get Kamala moving up. Her name was on the "Proof of Service" form I worked with countless times working in San Francisco. I think Kamala will take us on many fashion adventures. She is only 5'3" like me and not thin, so the suits she wears so often will be replicated around the world. I wish you would make a pattern that style (preferably with bust cup adjustment!). She likes to order from Black designers. I think she is terribly sexy but of course she can't do plunging necklines or short shorts! I was wondering what she would wear on that historic day in January. For the chilly walk, boots and a hat shaped like a mushroom cap (to hold her hair down)! Then probably a pretty wool jersey dress and nicely shaped tweedy coat. For the big ball, a sequin slip dress and matching little satin jacket with enormous puff sleeves. I'm thinking about a high square boat neck for her or else a bodice "cut down to your breakfast" (18th C Jamie in Outlander series complaining about that other Claire's new French gown) -- but with a high contrast fill-in . I'm seeing pearly honey color sequin fabric with matching satin. Or creamy white, taupe, a pretty aqua or burgundy. Oh boy oh boy!
Thank you Claire, always a pleasure
I love all your videos! Thank you fir sharing your knowledge.
I too went to LA Trade Tech. In 1973.
Great school! Helen Armstrong was a friend of mine. I went to Laney in Oakland.
Hmm, I'll work on it.
Hi Dear Claire, Thanks so much for sharing your couture insights, xoxooPeg.
You are so welcome!
This was such a pleasure to watch, thank you :) I wonder why the exhibition (which I loved btw too) does not have all the pieces you mention.
What did you miss? I'll look through my exhibition photos for it. C
I wonder do they hand stitch the fabric back together after separating to get the desired stripe effect? I love the tee-sweater. The stripes are perfect!!
No, machine stitch
Baste, then machine
Thank you, again, Claire. We appreciate your knowledge and garment treasures that you share with us. 😊
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Claire
❤
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Love this Claire❤
Many thanks.
I left a comment a few days ago, and now it is gone. Why is that? It was not disagreeable in any way.
Linda, I have no idea. Would you please post it again? Claire
Omg I am in heaven! Just discovered your channel and all I have to say is: amazing❤❤❤❤❤ thank you so much ❤
This is a very lovely dress. I love the design.
I talked with several people--vintage dealers, retired curators--about the label. One possibility is that the label was given to dressmakers in another country when they bought the fabric and right to copy it. Another possibility is that it was the runway model and not custom made for the individual. There are so many things we don't know. When I first went to Paris in the early 1980s, some couture houses had model garments for sale in the basement. Perhaps they were put on them. It was fun to look at them, but I couldn't afford them.