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@@L-91yt grazie, il nuovo proprietario ha detto che se ne occupa lui per la riparazione.

@@Delta-ux8hu 👍 la vita va avanti 😉

Hi! The mods are pretty much identical to the 1200w one. When you will open it, you'll find the same circuit board. Have fun!

I couldn't push mine to 15v... The max output without load is about 14.2v if I recall correctly, however at 14,2v I cannot make it turn on. At 14,1v it works ok. I didn't had any problems switching it off... maybe you should play with the max voltage. They are not designed to work that high. Keep in mind that even the capacitors have a pretty low voltage rating. Check them out, but I believe they're rated at 15-16v so it's better to stay below.

@@alexdragomirescu5084 I connect with 14.2v in load with 12.2 car and power supply entry in poweroff. If I drop voltage to 13.3V in power supply supply start fine and now I go to 14.2 without any problem. Do you have email?

@@nitruz99919 You have to find the right settings for your power source. The important thing is to be stable. When you are working with ECU's the voltage is not that important. Bmw is asking for 13,5v if I recall correctly, so you are covered. There's no need to go over 14v. Play with it and find the sweet spot.

Só you didn't change the ovp right? When I say it doesn't turn on, I mean, the source is on and I connect the cables to the car battery and it turns off. It looks like it goes into protection. Then I have to remove the cables and lower the source voltage from 14.2 to 13v ( I have other potenciomer) and I can now connect the source.

@@nitruz99919 exactly. I didn't removed the ovp. That's the reason why at 14,2v without load goes in protection. When you put a load on it it goes just a bit under the ovp threshold, then powers up. I suggest you leave the ovp stock, to protect the capacitors. Otherwise you have to change more components inside and you saw the amount of electronics inside that thing... it's a pretty serious equipment so leave it alone.

Hi, yes I did. Normally it's stabilized at 12v. You can find the mods on internet however. Good luck!

​@@alexdragomirescu5084hello, could you please provide the link where you got the instructions to do this mod? Thank you 🙏

@@cavidoman hi, there are other videos here on RUclips that explain way better than I can. Search for HP DPS 1200. You'll find more results;)

@@alexdragomirescu5084 yes I found some videos but none with this specific power supply... I wanted this 1400w version and only find videos of the 1200w version...

@@cavidoman Don't worry it's the same setup ;) once you've open it you'll figure it out. They are well protected electronically so unless you do something really stupid you can't burn it. However I do suggest you take good care when working next to the input line capacitors because they do hold high voltage even when unplugged.

Hi! Hantek and pico are 2 complete different animals. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Pico is a pc based oscilloscope with an excellent software and an obscene price tag (for the automotive models), so you're not very mobile as a device and remains only an oscilloscope. Your Hantek on the other side is a good all-in-one solution at an affordable price. The to1000 line has a graphic multimeter built-in so it's more versatile (they should have built-in an 10A fuse for the amp meter!!!). It is excellent for finding parasitic current draw for example. In reality I was looking for a snap-on vantage pro because to my knowledge is still the king as an all-in-one solution, but the prices are out of control. My problem with the Hantek's oscilloscope side is the software. It doesn't have a buffer to review a long capture, which is a must in the automotive diagnostic. 99% of the time you are searching for a glitch when diagnosing, not a steady problem so you need to review your data. The other bug in the software is when the system freezes. Sometimes the device freeze and you need to reboot. That being said, for ABS problems, check CAN, PWM signals etc. is a valid scope. There in Brasil I saw you have a lot of diagnostic channels and use different scopes, with very good results. Check them out. I wouldn't sell the Hantek just yet, first learn how to use it and then invest in something more powerful. Cheers!

Thank you very much for the sincere response. Here there is a national oscilloscope called advanced mechanics(mecânica avançada) But it is expensive, although it has support and eoscillograms. What I liked about Hantek is that it was portable, but I didn't know there was no buffer. I've even seen people saying that it does. Could it be a software update? Do you know how the font function works? I looked for information on working tendon and maximum current and couldn't find it. Here in Brazil we use a lot of pressure transducers for diagnosis too, have you heard?

@@wesleysf16 I saw that oscilloscope. I don't know the price, but I wasn't impressed by the specs. I was talking about rotkee (currently unavailable). The specs for the hantek are available on hantek official page. It's a 10A amp meter (non protected) and a 300v pp voltage input (if I recall correctly) However use attenuators! No buffer tho. The software updates are very rare and it seems hantek doesn't concentrate on improving their devices. Just put out new models. Maybe the hardware doesn't support too much. Actually it would be a pretty nice device if the software could be more advanced. It would be great to have a modifiable time base even for multimeter graphing mode and a built-in viewer for the saved diagram. And many other tweaks could be made. They should take a snap-on vantage pro and copy the functionality. The hardware should be up to that task. In the meantime you must begin to use it to find It's limits. I do have multiple pressure transducers and if you know how to interpret the waveforms they do make a fenomenal diagnosis aid. 🍻

Thanks for the clarification. The answers were enlightening. Congratulations for your work. I'm assembling an R8 that was submerged in the lake, I imagine I'll really need to use the oscilloscope.

​​@@wesleysf16eu também tava querendo pegar um desse tá 330 euros só que depois desse vídeo 😢 que achas do fnirse 1013d será que e melhor

Hi. Just to see the can signal the Hantek is ok. I don't have the owon tablet. But I guess is similar... The SATO1004 is a much more powerful scope than the Hantek, but more expensive of course. Has it's limitations however.

@@alexdragomirescu5084 since it is necessary to identify malfunctions in the operation of the data bus, but in the reviews they mainly show the signal shape but say little about the signal decoder and what can be done with it .. because for me now it looks like an indicator that the device is able to read the package. but without this signal decoder the device will also help (how useful is it?)

@@hidekimotosuwa7106 in this case you'll have to go with the micsig. It does have can decoding, but I'm not sure if it's detailed enough for what you need... maybe you should buy something like a picoscope. Something PC based. The software is more advanced for can decoding stuff.

@@alexdragomirescu5084 thanks for your answer .. what I need is to quickly look for which unit in the car is spoiling the data bus .. I just recently looked at the Lin bus and there the signal shape was either good or bad and it was not entirely clear who the culprit is .. but here is the decoded code would or would not indicate the absence of data in the signal. picoscope. I also looked at what seems like an interesting device I also saw bus analyzers but it still comes down to an oscilloscope.

@@hidekimotosuwa7106 in this case I don't know any device that can really decode what you're after... the decoding only gives you in real time the messages between modules. Every manufacturer has it's own protocols and you'll never find out witch module(s) ruins the signals... the only solution is to unplug one by one the modules and see the CAN signal improve or not. K-line is a relatively slow network with not so much information. The fast networks in a car are almost impossible to decode in real time. Maybe make a capture and try to decode, but in real time....no way.

Salut, încă nu am un PC based osciloscop, aștept să se reia vânzările la rotkee. Din cate am văzut pe net Hantek-ul 1008 e cam jucărie, mai ales peste 2 canale in același timp. Și prețul e pe măsură, dar cred că e pierdere de timp, mai ales că software-ul e slab rău. Daca vrei ceva de început (ca preț) mergi pe pico 2204a. Are un software foarte bun și găsești multe informații.

@@alexdragomirescu5084 da, ma uit la cele automotive dedicate, tocmai pt ca au software special pt testare de senzori. Asa un osciloscop digital benchtop se gasesc f ok calitativ in buget mic. Am observat ca si in US se foloseste mult Micsig. Nu e nici chiar ieftin dar nici mii de euro

@@motorax.service.motociclete americanii funcționează foarte mult pe sponsorizări...și asta explica mult. Micsig e prea pompat. Nu merită, in viziunea mea. L-am cumpărat la un preț de super reduceri dupa un review facut de supermario diagnostics, dar nu e ce trebuie. Adică are lacunele sale si nu l-as mai cumpăra. Are același software (evident chinez) care vad ca a apărut pe modulele de la launch si de la topdon. Daca ai deja scannerul de la ei cumpără modulul de osciloscop si aia e. Altfel nu-l recomand ca unicul osciloscop (pentru pretul ăla). La fel...picoscope a prins tare de tot in US si UK, e standardul industriei, dar s-au dublat la pret in ultimii 4 ani. La polul opus sunt rusii cu niste analizatoare de motor - mult mai de automotive (rotkee si usb autoscope). Cauta pe RUclips ca au si subtitrări. Personal am mers pe rotkee pentru ca au sondele pe BNC. Am investit mult in linia lor - am cumpărat toate accesoriile pe care le au pe site și le pot folosi cu celelalte scule pentru ca sunt universale. De 2+ ani au vânzările blocate la osciloscop in sine cu scuza războiului....ma rog....sunt pe lista de așteptare. În fine, cred ca ți-am dat niste idei de pornire pentru research. Apropo de hantek vezi userul TheGibby3340. Cu el m-am tot conversat pe capitolul hantek si am ajuns amândoi la concluzia ca nu prea merită. Daca mai ai întrebări...baga

@@alexdragomirescu5084 mulțumesc frumos de sfaturi 😁eram in dubii daca sa iau unul dedicat auto sau unul benchtop. Masini nu fac inca, doar motociclete dar senzorii sunt mai putini si asemanatori. O sa ma uit si la ce spui de la rusi. Daca as fi avut service auto as fi dat cu ochii inchisi banii daca.i face scula. Dar la motociclete sunt mult mai rare cazurile de folosinta si nu 0rea renteaza multi bani

@@motorax.service.motociclete nici eu nu am service (încă) si oricum nu ma interesează ideea de service in sine. Ma interesează partea de diagnostica. Aici in Italia 99% dintre mecanici nici nu au auzit de osciloscop și cu ce se mănâncă, iar "diagnosticarea" se face pe baza codurilor de eroare și pe încercări de schimbat piese....clasic. Treaba asta o sa se schimbe mai devreme sau mai târziu pentru că am văzut multe situații în care o centralina de 2000 de euro a fost schimbată din cauza unei siguranțe arse. Faci bine sa te bagi pe partea de diagnosticare pentru ca nu e multa concurență și o sa ai avantaj. Evident si clientul trebuie educat (diagnoza costa bani). Pentru moto într-adevăr lucrurile sunt mai simple dpdv electronic, dar o sa te ajute mult sa știi cum arata un secondary ignition waveform sau un primary ignition waveform. La fel și pentru injectoare. Sa zicem ca o scula mai ieftină te ajuta la pornire ca să-ți faci o idee de cum arata imaginile însă te poate fura pentru ca nu vezi anumite detalii... Până acum, de departe, cel mai bun pe partea de "impulsuri" e snap-on. Costa cât o casa, e adevărat, dar te ajuta mult. Cauta ceva sh care sa aibă modulul M4 (verus, modis, vantage pro etc). Nu stiu la ce nivel esti cu teoria si ce stii ca trebuie sa vezi dintr-o oscilograma dar daca esti la început îți recomand scannerdanner. Tipul ăsta e probabil taticul clipurilor educative pe RUclips. Are cursuri puse online de acu' 14 ani. De acolo poți sa o iei in sus, dar ai multe de învățat de la el. Are si o carte scoasa cu multe tipuri de waveform etc. Cel mai important e sa stii ce trebuie sa te aștepți sa vezi de la o formă ca sa poti sa interpretezi ceea ce vezi. Oricum ar fi...nu recomand hantek. Incepi cu pico ăla mic (cu atenuatuare însă pentru ca nu duce mai mult de 20v).

Hi, The scope comes with the needed leads. You can check the snap-on site for the optional accessories, m4 scope is unchanged since 2012 or so...

@@alexdragomirescu5084 Which leads are you using in the video? Thank you for your reply.

@@Serpent32776 RPM pickup adapter 6-03522A rev F and the EETM306A02 - Secondary Ignition Clip-On

@@alexdragomirescu5084super! Thanks!

@@alexdragomirescu5084 Are you using an attenuator?

Hi, I'm guessing you would buy it for automotive... Well...yes and no. The biggest drawback in my opinion is the lack of buffering. You can't save a "moving" capture. You can make screen recording, but it's not the same thing... it's just a playback of what you did at that time. There are some other minor drawbacks, like the screen (bad resolution) and the lack of a pressure transducer customizing probe (you can't create a custom pressure probe), you can create a custom amp clamp probe however. All in all for the money it's definitely a good package, it depends on what you're interested in. For the fast captures like CAN it's very good. For the injector/ignition captures it's pretty difficult to set up. I thought it is that hard with any scope...until I got the Verus:)) that's epic to work with on the engine side let's say, not so good for fast signals. Stay away from this Hantek. It's almost useless for cars. It could have been a nice tool, but the software is full of bugs. Cheers!

@@alexdragomirescu5084 yes definitely for automotive of course, I have heard such about hantek hence I'm not even looking in that direction, it seems the micsig is the go-to at the <1000 price point, if I had the cash would get a pico but not just yet, also what's difficult to set up for injectors may I know ? I'll also be getting a high and low current amps clamp I don't know if that'll make it any easier, I'm looking to do as much as I can, CAN, LIN, INJECTORS FOR SURE, coils and mostly any signal automotive related

@@thesmartguy3523 well...finding the right settings, like the time base and the trigger levels, the position on the screen...one capture would be ok, but when you want a parade of at least 4 injectors (or coils) they don't fit well on the screen. Let's say you want the 4 of them and you put 200ms on the screen. You get a capture and then you need to analyze it, but when zooming in you're not getting all the details you get from the M4 scope. Not having a buffer you must play only with that capture witch of course it won't be the one with the glitch you're chasing:)) The scope always tries to go to minimum sample rate so you have to bump it up to maximum, but then it catches every noise in the signal and then you get the sampling rate a little more down and so on... I'm also thinking to buy a pico 2 series just for the software experience, the 4 series became unattainable for the diyers. Try to get your hands on an used snap-on. You do get a pretty good scanner with it too and with the right accessories for the scope it's maybe even better than a pico... I did an injector capture video with it, check it out. The setup is a breeze, you can definitely see that it was made for automotive testing, in fact m4 remained the same tool for the last 15+ years...

@@thesmartguy3523 checkout a guy here "the practical mechanic". He did a series of waveform captures videos. Great content.

@@thesmartguy3523 Hello =) I think I’m following in your footsteps and I also need an oscilloscope to view data buses CAN, LIN, in a car -Have you already bought yourself a device? if so which one?

Hi, it's made from used parts. Here's a video about the making of something similar: ruclips.net/video/3zKvxx2WdX4/видео.html You buy an used HP server power source from eBay (about 60-80 euro) with 1200-1600 watt output and you modify it to push around 14v. I found an used broke welding machine just for the case (around 20-30 euro) and pulled everything out of it. You can use the already mounted cable ports for the big output wires. You buy a good set of jumping cables (about 70-100 euro) and modify them to connect to the machine plugs if you want them removable. You buy an current meter kit ( amazon about 30 euro) which includes the display and the shunt resistor - I went for 150 amps model. You do the wiring and you're good to go. It's shocking the fact that those little server power sources can put out so many amps and such a clean voltage. All in all you should be good to go for about 2-300 euros depending on what you find. Before buying the power source check on RUclips the model and see the way it has to be modified for 14v output, the mainboards inside are not the same so go with one you can find details. Have fun!

Not yet. Just did the latest firmware update from hantek official site, but didn't change anything.

@@alexdragomirescu5084 thanks

No ocupa decir nada, el problema se ve.

I was checking a 12v 120ah power supply that I made. Actually you are seeing about 50mV RMS which is very good.

Yes it does for the "YT" function. When in normal mode "roll" doesn't make a difference. There are definitely some bugs in the software. I don't think the hardware is the problem. Also I don't like the graphic multimeter save function. You can save it as csv and shure you can insert the data in excel and make a sheet...make a graph etc etc, but why not have a playback function on the tablet?

@@alexdragomirescu5084 Agreed…The package is well done. The software will require some fettling. Make the effort to contact Hantek technical services on website. If we all do so it will make for a better tool. 🍻

@@TheGibby3340 you already have a contact mail from them, right? However now I'm happyy, the power supply works. Check out the first test 🥳

Of course it was. It was a rental car. No rental car company modifies cars as long as I know.

Around 200 at the crank.

Thanks. The video was made before I dismantled everything aftermarket from the bike and sold it stock. Didn't dynoed it, engine internals were stock. It should have been around 200hp at the crank. The throttle response was very impressive versus the OEM configuration...the first 4 gears are limited with the OEM ECU. You do need sticky tyres and bigger brakes if you want to go that route! Good luck!

Just for memories. I did 2300km in a 3 days trip...

Km/h

:))

La va mia😅😅😅

Rude! You do better.

Ma che cazzo di paragoni fai ?

Ma hai 11 anni?

Except tryna insure me in my dads abarth 595 would’ve cost 4 grand XD, this is the only option

bad, city car motorway it shakes

Also my '11 panda ( the boxy model) does 190km/h with the 1.2 69hp engine

Salut, Curata clapetele "carburatoarelor". Da-i jos airbox-ul, tii clapetele deschise cu ceva nemetalic ca sa nu le zgarii si cureti cu spray de frane si o periuta de dinti peretii corpului si buzele clapetelor. Nu e nevoie sa refaci zerourile (TPS-ul) pt ca e drive by wire sistemul. A trebuit printre alte lucrari sa fac si eu pentru ca murea la rece. Problema majora la Dorso sunt rulmentii de la tripla, in special cel de jos pentru ca prinde apa. Lumea se plangea de asta si la 7k km. A mea avea 27k km si cand am demontat am ramas masca. Practic rolele rulmentului erau complet ruginite. Apropo de moduri...R is for pussy :)) Mergi pe T si S altfel cumpara un gs650 ;) Alex

Alex Dragomirescu Am mers pe R doar sa vad cum merge,sunt experimentat. Am doar 4000 km cu ea ,asa ca de curatat clapete, nu prea poate fi vorba

Inca ceva:desi toba e stock,cand accelerez si o las sa curga fara s o scot din viteza,da niste rateuri (pocnituri). Eu sunt obisnuit numai cu japoneze in 4 cilindri,d aia intreb

"am doar 4k km cu ea"....inseamna ca e noua si are 4k km sau ca o ai tu de 4k km? Daca e noua te duci direct la service la garantie fara sa mai stai pe ganduri. Daca tu o ai de 4k km inseamna ca are mai mult de 4k km. Ai istoricul de revizii? Filtrul de aer/bujiile schimbate? La asta pe care am avut-o eu am gasit filtrul de aer original din 2008 in ea si uite ca mergea f bine si asa, dar...(apropo vezi ca filtrul de aer nu e chiar ieftin...) Tu curata clapetele si mai vedem. Pentru o lucrare de 30-40 min nu are sens sa nu o faci. Cum ziceam...fiind drive-by-wire injectia e mult mai simplu decat la alte motoare unde trebuie sa refaci alinierea si zerourile etc etc. Apropo de pop-urile pe decelerare, mda...tobele stock nu sunt chiar silentioase si e normal sa mai auzi si cate un pop. Toate motoarele fac asta doar ca la tobele stock nu prea se simte mai ales daca ai si catalizatorul pe traseu. La 3 cilindri-ul pe care il am acum situatia e identica. Asta evident daca vorbim de rateuri din cand in cand. Daca in schimb se intampla la fiecare decelerare posibil sa ai prea multa benzina nearsa ceea ce inseamna ori ca ai aer fals ori ca scapa injectoarele ori ca corpurile clapeta nu inchid duficient cand lasi gazul (inca un semn ca trebuie curatate). Cand si daca te apuci sa demontezi airboxul verifica si diversele tubulete de aer daca sunt crapate sau nu stau bine infipte. Dorso e o moto care mi-a placut mult...simpla si eficienta asa ca nu ar trebui sa iti dea probleme daca macar ii faci reviziile la timp. Daca vii de pe 4 in linie cum am facut eu ori iti place ori nu. Am avut 3 V2-uri si mi-a ajuns. Nu e pentru mine. Prea au raspuns de motor diesel si destul de ingestibile. Asta in schimb a fost cea mai echilibrata v2. Inafara de harta S care e prea exasperata.

In 4,6 k km, are 2 revizii facute la united motors pipera, cu toate filtrele pe factura,ultima,acum 1 luna Am luat o acum cateva zile ...

Hi. You should be able to find them on ebay

gracias por tú respuesta

londo0 Very well said. Ive had a few cheap new small engine cars. They are fun round town, I don't go on motorways much but even then, most have coped well enough. Although lacking in torque at speed, I do think a lot of drivers forget thats what the gears are for, changing down etc to keep the car moving. We have become a nation of lazy drivers, everything with a turbo and instant power when pressing the accelerator. The point that makes me laugh is when people say ooh its not got enough power for overtaking on the motorway. Well, if you are already doing 70mph then WHY do you need to overtake anyone ? Ah, well what if you are coming up behind a truck doing 56mph ? Simple, you indicate in GOOD time, and pull out, and change down gear if need be to get a bit more pulling power. If you say a car is too slow for the motorway then you are a bad driver if you cant handle it haha

Agreed, especially in heavy traffic

Can't remember now....but I think it was just the velcro strap