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Awesome 👍🏾 to hear this. Glad to hear this is helping the Subie family!

Dealership fulfilled my order for the gasket in a matter of hours. No better than feeling than diagnosing and fixing an issue in the same day lmao. Thank you again!

@FWRXTER ha! Awesome!!! Always great to hear that!! Dig the Forester btw in the bio pic ✌️🏾

Well not everyone has a lift just like not everyone has an engine hoist. The whole point behind my videos is to show how it is done by Subaru. I watched both ways of course so I guess to each their own 😎. Definitely want to try so I can attest to which one would be better. Maybe a future content idea too! Thank you for the feedback, always appreciate the community!!

This is the snout repair kit I have on there. Yes, it comes with the retaining clip. All of the throw-out bearing kits should or they don't. Please please make sure you replace that that is a cheap part to not swap out at the time. Hope that answers your call.

@@khaozdreamz so even without the snout repair kit the Oem throw out bearing uses clips to hold it on the clutch fork.. and the clutch fork uses a clip to hold it to the pivot ball? Thanks for the fast response, I’ve been having problems with my brand new clutch slipping all summer and I’ve replaced it brand new twice and have had my transmission in and out so many times

Ah yes, you need to always have a clip! The oem vs aftermarket fork w the clip have to work hand in hand. While you're there if you haven't already make sure to change the pivot and fork as using anything heavier for pressure plates will strain those parts. The only thing that not super beefy is that clip cause it just holds that assembly together. Oh and don't forget get your grease points on this as well.

Also, what clutch are you running? You can hit me up on any of my socials if you need any help. Quicker to talk on there too. I'm sure we can figure it out.

Thank you for watching, I'm sure we will see them surface once everyone gets comfortable modding the VBs

Like who makes it or the design?

bamshifts.com/collections/handys for the the hand brake or the button itself is billetworkz.com/products/e-brake-button-kit

Hey @sacri2222 symptoms of the leak or bad seal were the oil spatter in the area and more oil consumption.

😂 huh, what do you mean?

@@khaozdreamz Maybe I'm seeing things, but it looks like your RPM gauge is sitting at 0 while you're out driving.

@APeopleP3rson ah, definitely it does. I am watching it again. I think it my camera angle.

7:35 you see it move when I get on it a lil. Whew scares me. 😅

Thank you!! ✌️🏾

Right!! I enjoy working on our own cars. Therapeutic and you get to to really understand your car while learning. Win-win. Thank you, I'm starting to film this weekend so keep any eye out ✌️🏾in a few weeks or so.

@daveevinvalenzuela1724 Oh man thank you for spotting this The part number for the Engine Oil Cooler Gasket is (21370KA001). I made sure to update the video description with the part number as well. GREAT Catch!

@austin702 great questions! Yes sir, the engine will move back and forth without the transmission. Which is why yes, to your second question. You could try to use the rope but you have to make sure you have it not move at all. The point of the service tool ( which needs to be made cheaper imo lol) helps exactly that it makes sure the engine does not move at all or very minimally. To be very open you don't need that tool, as I did it a few times w/o it. However it helps a lot when you do the work alone. Hopes this answers your questions ✌️🏾

@jakemaley what year St?

Yeah if I had a full lift I would definitely agree. And I was going to do the motor way but I don’t have an engine hoist.

@@khaozdreamz I have a over head crane from harbor freight too got it on sale for 500$ it's buy far the best for removal

@subarutime5089 hmm, but what about having to remove that rad? Or you don’t have to it’s definitely worth trying

@@khaozdreamz I Yes I remove the radiator turbo down pipe wants to arm wrestle sometimes 😆

@@subarutime5089 hmmm ok I’ll keep that in mind. Cause doing clutch jobs suck on our cars. It’s not bad just very time consuming and if you mess up the seals or something like ( car won’t go in gear lmao ask me how I know )

Nah you got this. It’s not to bad just take your time have good light and you should be good to go. If not reach out I’ll lend whatever help I can. Unless you’re local to AZ then we can do it locally too.

Hey @rjlanhoward26, it is holding up great. Got some good mileage of driving (have to see how much). Anywho, the bite is quick and the drivability is about right for a daily. It is definitely stiffer than OEM however, I enjoy the shifts when getting on the highway or needing to downshift and go. Over all recommend if you’re looking for something to handle 300whp. The only con if you call it that is if you let out the clutch slowly while coming out of a stop it makes a whine I’m assuming it cause it made out of Kevlar and not resin. This only happens during that time aka I need to find a better sweet spot or drive better lmao.

Hahaha, it's not bad just time consuming.

Just replaced my engine after blowing it up after 70k. First engine job I’ve ever done. Ended up needed my bosses help to get the top of the bell housing to come together. Ended up cross threading a bold into my brand new engine block. So tomorrow, when I am replacing my clutch. I will be having loads of fun drilling and rethreading. But hey! Stage 2 clutch 🤷🏼‍♂️

@BrandonBzy whoa I’m sorry to hear that brother 🫣. Are you posting on social media or anything? I’d definitely like to follow your story or progress!

Good to hear that!! That’s what this channel is about helping others with their subies!!

Finally got it done. You called it. Idler pulley had some play and was grinding a little. Good as new now!

@@SCarolinaX that's amazing, I am glad it's helping the Subie community!!

@eltonharris4502 no sir, this is a FA platform. I always recommend new flywheel when changing the clutch. Only reason is, a lot of people have a hard time finding a trusted tech to do the resurfacing of a flywheel correctly. So if you can afford it, wait and do it right the first time. Saves you a headache, money and time in the future. Hope that helps, let me know if you have more questions.

@khaozdreamz Thank You for the advice, Yep I will get the complete kit with the new flywheel, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and replace the rear main seal also.

@eltonharris4502 great plan! However, with regard to replacing your rear main seal, unless it has shown signs of wear, deformation,or leaking. It is recommend to leave it alone. There no reason to fix what is not broken. But in case you do need to perform that install. Check out company 23 (www.rallysportdirect.com/brand/company23). They make aftermarket tools to perform installation of the rear main seal.

OK, I just figured since I was that far into the tear down. I would replace it because I have 133k on a 2013 for reassurance. But like you said. If it aint broke, don't fix it.

@eltonharris4502 you are correct, it is something that definitely needs to be checked when you are already in that area. Just take your time and make a checklist of the things you're going to want to inspect while everything is apart.

Also, make sure you check your belt to while your there replacing that pulley. Hit me up if you have any questions.

@@khaozdreamz thank you man will do!!

Thank you!!! More to come in the future.

@@khaozdreamz I was just gearing up to install the new uniclutch sport this weekend and realized after watching your vid I’ll need to wait and get replacement turbo bolts, steering knuckle pinch bolts and I’m debating if I should just do my control arms while I have them removed….

@itzdaxx1154 yeah I would get what you need while you have that all apart. It will be better that way one time and done. Just label everything when you take it apart

Do you know where I can find that “service tool?” Can’t seem to find it…wondering if it has a part number or a more specific name?

@@itzdaxx1154 I mentioned it in my “Preparing to replace the clutch for the 2015+ Subaru WRX ruclips.net/video/mZXgSF4A0Yc/видео.html” However, I did not pay that price I was lucky to find it on eBay for 60% off. I have not seen it again sadly. Subaru transmission support tool: Kent-Moore Subaru 41099AC000 Engine Support Assembly

That’s very awesome and thank you sir!

Hi I am so sorry for the late reply, it is "Kent-Moore Subaru 41099AC000 Engine Support Assembly" from www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-Subaru-41099AC000-Engine-Support-Assemb-p/kmt41099ac000.htm However, I did not pay that price. At the time I was lucky enough to catch one on eBay. you can do it without it. Just make sure you have help, if not this tool will be the extra hands you need to keep it from moving too much.

Hi @bryanalonso7978 no issues been holding up very well. So far new tow two shows and car sits in 115 degree weather. No issue yet!!

Hi @hazegames1619 it is "Kent-Moore Subaru 41099AC000 Engine Support Assembly" from www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-Subaru-41099AC000-Engine-Support-Assemb-p/kmt41099ac000.htm However, I did not pay that price. At the time I was lucky enough to catch one on eBay. you can do it without it. Just make sure you have help, if not this tool will be the extra hands you need to keep it from moving too much.

That’s a 1,000$?!?

Yeah, most service tools are. Which is why I'm investing to let others know if it is worth it. However, as I mentioned in my video, sometimes we get lucky and find mechanics selling them for example.

Hi, @mbbbb I would suggest a slotted over cross-drilled, especially if you’re using it as a daily and not racing. As for the quality, they don’t rust easily and are quick in their response. There are a few brands out there nowadays that are better, just depends on your budget and what other supporting mods you are doing (ss brake lines, pads, etc). Either way, these are a solid choice at the end of the day and have been holding up well for me 5 years strong.

@@khaozdreamz thanks for the inputs man!

@mbbbb for sure, if you can wait for black Friday for the best deals from them or any of our car sites.

Yes sir, they do help a lot, especially in the rain. It’s a lot easier to brake and are very responsive over stock.

Hey @hrtbrk do you mean in the inner cooler or ??

Thanks big bro!

Hi @anthonyhaynes this was used with the factory hoses, so I am not sure. You shouldn't need anything other than the turbo inlet and correct year. Did you modify yours??

Thanks for the reply brotha man. After rewatching some of your vids i see you have an AOS. So im assuming it’s a 5/8 hose you have. I have not modified yet as I have a leak stemming from the inlet. I will definitely upgrade to this inlet for sure in the near future. Thanks bro.

Yes sir and I believe that size is correct. However, depending on your subie year it might vary. If I may, I recommend going with IAG as they seem do and have a better system them Crawford. However, both are great and thanks!! I am glad your enjoying the channel.

Hi Saeedalshaiba832, do you mean what kind if tools, or parts? Sorry can you clarify?

@@khaozdreamz parts

Ah all the parts come from GrimmSpeed

@@saeedalshaiba832 and you don't need to tune if you're just running the bypass valve. Mind you you will not hear the stuu stuu sound as clearly with a factory intake.

Hey @supreme2544 that's a great point and I appreciate you bring that to my attention. I need to make a short of the full functionality. Yes they have high beams it built into the single housing. So the cut off is the low beam then when you turn on that high beam that cut-off pulls up. Make sense if not. Give me a few and ill make a vid showing all the features.

@@khaozdreamz sounds great thanks man

As long as it's in that year range yes.

Yeah if your close by for sure.

@@khaozdreamz I'm in Cali lol don't tempt me with a good time!!

Ah what part? I'm from Magic mountain area

@KhaozDreamz I'm in san bernardino brotha.. I know where you're at lol

Yeah that's not bad drive from scv. If I am ever in town, I'll hit ya up how many moles you have on that clutch?

Thanks Big bro, n 250k???? ya sure lmao.

@@khaozdreamz lol there you go. Putting the waters to the test. Let me look for the receipt 😆

Glad it was helpful! That the primary goal for this channel!

@jayxiong204 It has been great! no problems, leaks, or fogging. This has been through the ringer of 110 degrees in the summer to the rains and 35 degrees in winter. The only thing I wish it had was the ability to dim the c lights at night they are kinda bright but so far no one has flashed me or mentioned that they are too bright.

The Key to it all is to make sure your engine is cold\cool as much as possible first. Before you spay, as it could crack. Also, don't sit a spray directly on the electrical parts. Remember that our cars are driven in the rain and water does and will get into the engine bay just not too much. You also don't need to use water you can just use a wet rag and brush to help get the grime out as well. Just takes a little longer and does not clean as well IMO.

Thanks, Big bro!

Welcome keep up the K work. So far from what I've seen. You've come a long way with the start. Can't call you a backyard mechanic cuz you didn't have one lol. Side yard one tho lol..

Hahaha I have a garage so, garage mechanic lol. Still I appreciate The love

Haha, nope she fine. My protuner been doing this for a while. Az snail performance can chime in. It cold once she warms up it goes to it’s normal idle. Appreciate the concern tho ✌🏾

@@khaozdreamz my 20 legacy idled at 2500 cold start at the time with 2000miles on It

@@AIPrecognition o man that sucks, did you ever do a break down to see why?

It's a great color overall. Just hard to match rims colors to be different haha

@lopezam07 yes in both sound and performance. Of course, it will depend on what else you have done to your car and what type of tune you are running.

@@khaozdreamz well my car is somewhat stock. I have a cobb tmic, cobb cast inlet, and awe touring exhaust on the car right now but I do have my GS v2 jpipe, ebcs, intake, and aem fuel pump sitting till I get my tune so I'm just debating if to get the headers as well

@@lopezam07 ah ok, yeah you should see a mid-power band again for sure. With a healthy sound too. What I love the most about the GrimmSpeed headers is the factory scrap plate fits without any modifications as well.

@@khaozdreamz sweet!! Well I hope so because I'm going thru loops just to get it lmao thank you

Yeah, everything is horrible to order atm if you need any help with the install doesn't hesitate to ask!

Awesome!!! Glad everyone is enjoying the video and it is helping our community. That’s the end goal fort channel.

@B Lee yes I did, made sure to have my protuner scheduled beforehand. However, to be clear it was only cause I installed the new GrimmSpeed intake as well. If you're just installing the GrimmSpeed BPV alone and nothing else. You do not need a tune.

Hey @Fa20papí I think I am pushing a little above that tbh, however I will be re dynoing sometime after the clutch breaks in.

Hi @E C Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. While, yes it seems overwhelming. However, it is something that can be done if you take your time and have the area to do it. Which I do understand not everyone has. My goal is to help our community and encourage others when the time comes. ✌🏾

Hi @Charles yes it is resonated. Running now the full GrimmSpeed header, j pipe and cat back. She screams when you get on it.

@@khaozdreamz awesome 👌 I'm sold on this exhaust system!

Great to hear that!! Let me know if you have any questions or help

@@khaozdreamz no worries 👍

Thanks man!!! Much appreciated!!!🙏🏾

Thanks big bro!!!

I've found pulling the engine is a faster option