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Yes, it has a prism. Prisms was also used on Zenith cameras of the same factory (Krasnogorsk Mechanical Factory). And logo of KMF also has a prism with arrow

It's definitely a more affordable way to start, really glad you found the video useful! 🙂

No it's not. It's double super 8. Regular 8mm is a different format. This is explained in the video.

Ah that's a shame, if you've loaded 35mm cameras before I doubt it's something you're doing. Mine's still proving to be really reliable but maybe go for a different camera if you're worried about being burned again.

@@Lo-fiCine I think it has something to do with the camera back and the film rollers on that. I love this camera, and if I’m super cautious with how I load it it seems to be fine, but it’s especially picky with cinema film :/

Hi Justin, so glad you liked the video 🙂. The black and white wheel you're talking about engages and disengages the claw for the film pull-through mechanism. When the claw is disengaged, no film will run through the camera. This way you can release any tension in the mechanism without having to waste the film that might currently be in there. For your reference: BKA is engaged and OTKA is disengaged. As for the dial next to FPS, I believe that's an exposure setting for the selenium light meter as this camera doesn't have a variable shutter speed (it's locked at around 180 degrees). It uses an old russian exposure standard which is why the numbers look weird. I think it's GOST so you should be able to find a chart online that converts that to ISO. Just make sure you match the speed of your film with the frame rate you're shooting in. Hope this helps!

@@Lo-fiCine thanks so much!! So helpful. Excited to go down the film rabbit hole this year!

Hello, really glad you enjoyed the video! $60, what a bargain. I bought a cheap 34mm lens cap off ebay, only cost me £1.99 and fits perfectly. Hope this helps 🙂.

@@Lo-fiCine Thank you so much!! Helped a ton. I feel like there’s not much out there for this gem of a camera

Glad you enjoyed it! I'd love to convert an H8 but it looks quite technical. How difficult did you find it to do? I'd love to see your test footage when you get it.

is this double 8 format available in color or only b&w?

No problem! First off you're going to need a 25ft spool to load it onto. You'll also want a dark bag or a pitch black room as you'll need to do it in the dark. Make sure you roll it onto the spool with the emulsion facing down (you should be able to feel this but if you're not sure, cut off a small strip and take it out in the light so you know what the right side feels like). Stick the leader into the small slit in the spool and start winding it on there. Make sure you wind it in the right direction. With the spool correctly orientated, you should be winding it clockwise. Once you've filled the entire spool, cut the end with a pair of scissors and you're done. Hope this helps

Couldn't agree more, there's so much resolution in the image if you scan it properly!

This seems to be a popular opinion and by all means the Pen-f being an SLR does give it a massive leg-up against the EE-17. But once again it depends what you value in a camera. I can fit the EE-17 in my back pocket which for me makes it the clear winner. Doesn't matter if I can focus easier if the camera's so big I don't take it out with me. Would love to get my hands on a Pen-f at some point soon though.

I wouldn't know where to begin mixing from scratch. Please share! 🙂

@@Lo-fiCine hell yeah, where can I message you?

Followed your instructions and it's working again. Thanks a lot!! Now i'm having trouble figuring how to set the ISO

I think that's Analogue Wonderland 🙂

No problem! Really glad people are finding it useful 🙂.

​@@Lo-fiCineI'm facing a more difficult challenge; The camera looks like new but I need to clean the lenses inside. front lens is fine but the one in front of the aperture is hazy.

Really good point, thanks for posting 🙂

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Bold statement. Perhaps the Pen F for being an SLR but then you lose the compact nature of the Demi 🤷‍♂️

Demi EE-17 is not that much more compact, also Olympus has pancake lens if need be

@@BogdanSorlea From what I've seen the Pen F does look a good bit bigger, definitely not pocketable even with a pancake lens. But I guess it depends what you value in a camera haha.

oh, definitely pocketable with a pancake lens... 117 x 71 x 48 mm, 445 g vs 127 x 69.5 x 62.5mm, 495g so riddle me this, which one is which?

@@BogdanSorlea I'm guessing the smaller one is the Olympus

Hi! Yes it is possible to shoot colour film as long as you know where to get it. I have a roll of Vision3 200T that I bought from a company called On8mil. It came out great. The only thing to note is that it only comes in 100ft rolls so you'll need to break it down into 25ft spools in a dark bag/dark room.

Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing! Finding your own chemicals instead of buying a kit is such a good idea although I feel that could be a bit technical even for me haha. Do you shoot fomapan r100 or something different? I'd love to know more about your process.

@@Lo-fiCine I shoot only foma r100, since its the only film that's even remotely affordable. The chemical process isn't really that complex, but it might be hard and or expensive to get the chemicals, depends on where you live :)

Scanning I think is usually the same price regardless of if it's negative or positive/reversal. I think sometimes labs may charge more for reversal developing though as this can be a more complicated process 🙂

@@Lo-fiCine you need way less chemical to debvelop it yourself as neg, scanning result shoud be better bc of higher dr of negative, on same film stock

So glad my video inspired you to try one out! They have their quirks but are lots of fun to learn with. Feel free to get in touch if you have any questions when it arrives 😁

I agree. At the risk of sounding a bit political, I think it's interesting to see how repairable a camera can be when it's built by a nation that isn't concerned with generating long-term profit and just wants something that will work well for as long as possible. I feel like design like this isn't seen much these days.

@@Lo-fiCine It's the same with basically all tech from the former eastern Block. Here in East Germany for example the GDR produced a lot of household items (like Blenders) who still work and are repairable, 40-50 years later. Things had to be repairable and cars too. Russian cars like the Ladas, could be repaired with simple tools and at home since repaid shops weren't widely available. Cameras too. East German lightbulbs produced by NARVA also weren't part of the phoebus cartel since tungsten was way too precious in the east to be sacrificed after just 1000 hours of lightbulb workhours. So they still work.

I agree, they can be unreliable but kind of like an old car, if you know it's quirks it can be really fun to use. I had a couple times where the film wasn't feeding properly and I realised it was because the original spools the camera came with have a habit of losing grip on the film and so the film ended up feeding loose and eventually seizing up. After a bit of use though you do start to learn how the camera should sound and feel when correctly feeding film which can also help 🙂

Completely agree about it being a great way to achieve a super experimental and organic look. I hear bucket processing is also good for this but am yet to try it myself. Really interesting idea using this technique to super8ify an already captured video! Well definitely try this myself at some point 🙂

​@@Lo-fiCinebro could I ask you a question

If you haven't serviced/cleaned your camera in a long time, it's possible any dirt or hardened grease is causing a lot of drag on the mechanism. This would make it harder to pull through the film at lower speeds due to having less momentum etc. If it has been cleaned recently then I imagine it could be a sign of a more complex issue that would be hard to diagnose without opening it up and having a look. Hope this helps 🙂

@@Lo-fiCine I actually found out the issue, and learnt along the way! The frame rate is determined by a sort of cam connected directly to the frame rate knob. The cam has a bunch of screws attached at different depths. Moving the frame rate knob determines what screw is engaged, in turn pushing a larger plate toward the back of the camera. The screw for the 12fps option on mine was set improperly, but moving it slightly inward did the trick. Couldn't have done it without this video! The screw for taking it apart on the back of the frame gate is really sneaky, you did a good job with this video!

@@srenhaandbk7904 Great to hear you solved your issues and thanks for coming back to share what you discovered! Glad the video was a help, happy shooting 😁

@@Lo-fiCine Oh, one other thing. When I got mine the dial furthest to the front of the camera, the "framerate to гост ratio" was not attached, but included. I have not been able to deduct from online what position to reattach it in however. Can you tell me: when the dial is turned all the way counterclockwise, what does it read? I think гост 22 and 12fps should line up, but it's hard to tell.

​@@srenhaandbk7904 when mine is turned fully counter clockwise 12 and 180 line up. Fully clockwise, 12 and EA line up.

Glad you found it useful! Couldn't agree more, it's a really fun camera and format to use 🙂

Thank you! I agree it's a great little thing. I used the fomapan reversal developing kit as I shot fomapan r100 for both black and white films in the video 🙂

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it 🙂

Hi Jeffrey, so glad you're enjoying my work! As someone who's grown up entirely in the digital age, it's so interesting to know you were able to buy a Quarz-5 new back in 73. Whilst I have disassembled a selenium light meter in the past, I am yet to try it with the Quarz-3. That said, I think mine may have a similar issue so I'll be sure to look into it when I have some time. In the meantime, a little workaround I've used is to use your hand held meter to figure out how many stops your DS8-3 is over exposing by and then subtract this amount from your iso dial. For example, if your selenium meter is reading +2 stops over and you're shooting on 200 ISO film, set the ISO switch on the camera to 50 ISO and you should get accurate readings. (Depending on which version you have I believe your ISO switch will be in either DIN or GOST so you'll need to look up a conversion table although I imagine you know this already) That said, I've found that the selenium metres can often be a bit inconsistent and usually use a light meter app on my phone to get spot readings when I'm out with my camera. Hope this helps!

It's a selenium cell. Any light meter working without a battery will die over time. If it's still working you can perhaps do some mechanical adjustments to make it useable again but I'm not sure how accurate it will be. It's better to use an external meter and dial in manually.