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how did it hold up ??

Je suis propriétaire canadien d'une CS361p, malheureusement le problème de chaîne qui débarque m'arrive très régulièrement quand je fais de l'ébranchage. j'ai essayer de nombreuses combinaison de chaines et de guides et malheureusement ce problème est constant et depuis son achat neuve. J'ai constamment l'impression que le "pitch" de chaine n'est pas le même que le sprocket même si tout est correct suite à de nombreuses vérifications. J'ai de l'expérience et suis propriétaire de nombreuse scies de tout les marques et ce problème constant est unique à cette scie. Dommage car j'aimerais l'utiliser beaucoup plus mais ce problème constant fait que c'est ma scie mal aimé et fâcheusement pratiquement inutilisable.

Would you be able to work on my 65xp? You based in Canada? Cheers

If you my friend show something show it right Let you guys know you use incorrect hi lock length are you certificated ???

I was in school for airframe stuff for awhile...was too boring went back to welding

1 word (threadmill)

do you have a wiring diagram for the engine install and the reversing switch?

Are you in Canada?

I commented on your snow blower video, did your gf1800 already have the quick hitch setup, or did you adapt something to it? Did you add the remote hydraulics to your gf1800, or did it already have that? I just picked up a low hour 4wd GF1800 and have the bx 4 way blade already. My gf1800 doesn’t have aux/remote hydraulics and I can’t find any info online about adding them

How did you add remote hydraulics to the gf1800? Did you already have the quick hitch or did you make that?

Three other mods 1. My ancient chipper (made in 95’) has a Wisconsin engine. It is protected by a rain hat. But the exhaust muffler was a primitive thing that ended under the hat. Result was exhausr fumes in my lungs when the breeze put me downwind. Had the local Midas shop make pipe pieces that went around to top of hat and then i put a little car muffler in horizontal position on top of hat. Coming out of muffler, a 90 back to vertical and up to just under discharge chute swing. Capped it with one of them rain flap protectors from Tractor Supply or Amazon. 2. The rotation of the chute was a pain. I greased the joint with a putty knife. The lock for chute rotation drives me nuts so ran one of them cheap ratchet straps around chute just above the base. Easy to tighten and holds chute in any position. 3. I am 300 years old. I always want chipper as close to best position as possible. And chipper is short coupled so backing with precision is near impossible. Put a tralier ball on the FRONT of your ATV. It is best invention since man discovered sex.

I have a great add for any Bandit 65 and probably a lot of others. Line the side and top of the inlet chute with 1/4” hi density Polyethelene sheet. Coefficient of friction of poly/wood is 0.1 whereas painted steel/wood is about 0.5. Result is that twigs and branches rarely jam on way in. Saves a ton of labor and lets you turn away to pick up next load without having to fight with the one you just put in. You do have to be a bit clever. Poly only within 3 inches of roller. Use flat head 1/4” bolts at roller end and counter sink them. You need just a few bolts at inlet and maybe in middle BUT those should go thru at least half inch hole in poly with a 3/4” washer under hex bolt head so poly can expand on hot days withou buckling. Hex bolts just snug. All nuts are lock nuts. Polyethelene sheet is expensive but worth every penny ( $400 for 4 x 12). Do not use Polypropylene….coefficient is too high. On older chippers use overlapping pieces on sides and remove outer if you need to raise the outer chute. Use the left over elsewhere or maybe sell it. Shipping is costly so try to find an industrial source near you, maybe one that makes conveyors. This mod is a must.

did you just hand ream the hole?

interrupted taps actually have higher chip load, but less flank load.

Right on. I think the B series could handle the 66", it would be mostly traction limited.

Ty!

Have a similar set up love the HLA 1500 I went with the 66" and the back drag edge. Havent gotten to use it too much where I'm at but so far so goood.

You should line the inside of your chute with thin flexible plastic riveted in. Greatly reduces slush build. 🤔🤔🤔

AR30 spear parts

If you turn your pre flow down to like 0.1 you can hold your tungsten on the piece for just a slip second and strike an arc with only touching it once instead of twice. I just got one and have been playing around with it and discovered that. So far it’s a nice machine!

Too short and csk too deep

Just get a bigger tap wrench.

Too bad you don’t know how to weld!!! Come on man LH 70 should look better than that!!!

cutting edges should always be welded with 7018 or a stronger rod not 6010 and preheat it before welding

You got info on your running gear?

Hey man, I have a 75xp, which is essentially the same thing as what you have here. Can I perhaps contact you somehow to discuss more about the way you went about getting your reverse function working with the standard bandit tach?

Mega mods

2 years later hows it going? How many hours do you have on it now?

10 seconds on post flow is excessive

Very interesting for me a monobolt maker

How is the original dinse connector and lead going from your first amazon torch?

I think these make a lot of sense as chipper saws. They aren't that expensive and they are basically 355ts which I run as a climbing saw.

Thank you

where u ship ?

Have you still got this torch? would you do a follow up vid?

Thanks for the information. I have a 22297 Toro model. I put on a Toro bagging blade on it and it worked relatively well for bagging during fall clean up. How does the Oregon high lift blade you have in the video do with mulching? Thanks.

Thanks for the video. I completed one last month. In spite of our problems, I'll stick with the US. Kit cost me $245. Dummy here, however, added almost that much again in OEM parts, though mostly cosmetic. The side handle was a must change. I heated the original to almost 300F and was just starting to be flexible, but too hot to handle. Got replacement from rep and no difference. One nice thing about the magnesium crankcase is that any mechanical stuff (OEM) that mounts to it is spot on dimensionally. The Farmertec casting people did a great job. The plastic suppliers are stuck with old milk bottles and other scrap to work with ;-) You've convinced me to avoid mods and porting. I may modify the muffler though. Another nice thing is that another Farmertec upper and piston kit was around $16 so I ordered one just to have. So technically, I could play more and toss it if not happy. Eventually, I will probably put in an OEM fuel/oil line when it needs one. I had to cut off the molded fan shape that attaches to the fuel vent (also OEM) in order to prevent kinking from excessive length. Both lines sit nicely now without kinks. Swapped the rope for OEM before it had a chance to break on me :) Overall, the parts kit was only missing a few screws and the lower heat shield which Farmertec doesn't have. I'm using either foil tape or very thin copper clad PCB. Please do some wood cutting if you have a chance. What would also be interesting is how intentional attempts to cause and control kickback vary with chain types (Stihl yellow vs green cutters) on this baby. Good luck with your kit adventure !

Waiting on the missing parts from the vendor, and oem parts. I wouldn't run this saw in tree until all parts installed.

Got a plan for the running gear? I'd like to know what you used.

Good video

I just got done tapping 1 1/4 npt in stainless at work today and I agree, it was a bear. Will look into the interrupted tap, thanks.

How do you have the quick connects and the door shut?

Not a bad idea to use it as a whole house generator! I wish I thought of that!

What size tap is needed for 1 1/2" cast iron pipe ?? Inner threads are somewhat worn from removing the nipple part. Your experience is appreciated.

Since it's for your cart just use mini nuts and a thin washer. Then, you wouldn't have to worry about a collar coming loose. Those collars have a locking feature at the end to prevent that from happening. That's why you should have a minimum of one thread protruding from the end.

Aimed for our welders unimig etc down from Australia.. I can’t wait here what you have to say. Im doing something very similar my self right now :)

What is the minimum spot time setting? Thinking about purchasing this welder, but minimum spot time is not in the manual. Is it 0.1s?

Goddamn Chinese always copying/stealing American products/ideas... Why can't they ever innovate any products on their own yeesh

Hilok pin thread not protruding at all as per the standard safety requirement. Meaning its too short sir.

Thanks for sharing. I have 320 holes to drill and tap in 304 SS Sch 40 for a sprayer manifold. Looking for some tips. Your video was perfect 👍🏼