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Honestly I can't say with absolute certainty - there are just way too many factors and the earlier cars tend to be less tolerant. I'd probably go straight for a plate system in your particular case. ruclips.net/video/aeCQuBDEUEs/видео.html

@@miamirice6840 with bone stock suspension I'd just run zero toe front and rear, as much camber up front as you can get (via loosening everything and pushing/pulling within factory tolerances), and set rear camber around -1.7 to -2.0. Should be a decent starting point. Adjust balance via tire pressure. There's really only so much you can do. Toe out in the rear will definitely help but I'd probably not resort to that first time out.

@@datadrivenmqb i put a large bar in the back and the car is neutral at best when you really carry 4 wheel lose type speed , but it doesn’t rotate well under trail breaking that is so important in FWD ( the R really drives like FWD)

@@miamirice6840 these cars are too front heavy to not do a bigger front bar* *If on softer suspension, or have inadequate camber. The front bar on my car was easily one of the best changes I made. www.datadrivenmqb.com/suspension/swaybartheory www.datadrivenmqb.com/suspension/fsbdata

@@miamirice6840 a friend's 95 Civic hatch was easily the best FWD car I've ever driven on track. It's just a shame the parts are getting scarce and K swap stuff isn't exactly cheap.

@@datadrivenmqb agree. i had a 2300 lbs 95 Hatch with K20a2, bolt ons and coilovers. incredibly fast car.

@@dexterracingful you'll be just fine. I am less sure about the early Rs, but the 2015-16 GTIs absolutely are far more likely to have problems without a plate system especially with track use and or increased power. The APR plate is definitely the right choice in your case.

@@datadrivenmqb appreciate it man, we shall see how it does. Only real concern at this point is how quickly the can will fill up.

@@xAntisanta it's hard to say for sure, but this might help you to weigh your options: ruclips.net/video/gx8o4Sh5B6Q/видео.htmlsi=jIcOm2q2bZ9wtvGP

@@datadrivenmqb thank you mate I’ll take a look. Keep doing what you’re doing mate ✌️

@@dexterracingful video is an ancient Gopro Hero3, data is from Simos Tools with the .csv overlaid manually using RaceRender. For on-track video I use the Garmin Catalyst instead of the Gopro but it's the same process.

@@dscpat honestly I think most problems are installer related. I'm approaching 30k since install with no problems or noises now.

@@datadrivenmqb I appreciate it. I bought them and will use RTV as you suggest. Car is new so bearing are OE and new. Should be fine. Thanks again for sharing your experience.

@@dscpat no problem! As long as they're paired with OEM or 034 springs I wouldn't expect issues. Anything else needs to be looked at very closely as outlined in the video. Anecdotally everyone who's had problems has been on some other type of spring. I suspect the level of interference may vary car to car and spring mfr to spring mfr.

@@BittaThisBittaThat www.datadrivenmqb.com/mk8pcv

Very "Don't threaten me with a good time"

@@Denydee-uw8ki diesels function very differently - there is no vacuum in the intake manifold available to potentially act like the EA888.3 at idle. Would need to find someone more knowledgeable on VW TDI stuff specifically.

@@debaasdebaas9868 no idea, but sounds like an easy way to use the MK8 Venturi hose instead of the Tiguan version.

@@datadrivenmqbturbo outlet and inlet connects with pcv. I buy original pcv hose from mk8 chop together with mk7 hose and dv delete it’s making 500 hp

*Maybe*. Honestly for anything on the stock turbo there's really no major need to change from the stock TIP. The power gain is pretty negligible in the grand scheme of things. The APR seemed to be just marginally worse than stock, but it also doesn't have really notable gains in airflow if you check the data at mygolfmk7.com.

Yes - TunerPro for actually editing the calibration, and Simos Tools for flashing and logging.

@@datadrivenmqb that is awesome

Also, is this ihi turbo or an oem+

@@TheShadowang1s OEM off a 2017(?) Golf R. Got it used for $250... and wanted to test the MK8 PCV a bit harder so it was too good to pass up. If you're on Facebook, check out the Simos Tools User Group. Lots of info on how to get started DIY tuning there.

Will have a massive vacuum leak at idle due to the blue passage vacuum to the crankcase not being regulated by the diaphragm.

IMO for autocross only (and don't care about being competitive) the 034 ball joints are great because they add a ton of camber and the bump steer they introduce really won't be noticeable. The Whitelines I'm running now along with some bump steer correction which helps in that regard, and they get a bit of camber... but you lose caster in the process. I'm compensating (somewhat) for the caster loss by having JXB caster sphericals in the rear of the front LCAs.

@@victordelgado4657 I’m working on standardizing a test procedure to discern the difference between crankcase leakage vs blow-by. The 15 GTI in the video which we put my sensors on has since had his RMS replaced, I have a handful of tools and stuff on the way to be able to bench test my car vs his and evaluate leaking seals more accurately. Then once he autocrosses it again I’ll be following up with the results of that. Just hang tight. Still searching for answers. Biggest question is the amount of blow-by that early vs later engines produce. Harder to quantify as a leak down test does not factor in dynamic sealing problems such as ring flutter. My thought is that if this local problem car tests out with a similar crankcase vacuum holding ability vs mine while not running, but still shows drastically lower vacuum levels with the sensors fitted, it is a blow-by issue. If readings are similar but it still smokes, probably an engine block passage type issue. If it has no more problems, then there might be a lot more MQB cars out there with small crankcase sealing issues that go misdiagnosed and are the root cause of PCV problems.

it's in the works for the future

No idea, haven't tested it. But based on my findings now it appears 19+ are more likely to be successful w/ a MK8 retrofit.

@@datadrivenmqb if i use mk8 pcv retrofit kit can i change oem turbo inlet？

@@scottli2436 the Venturi makes up for the lack of vacuum non-oe inlets cause. Yes.

06H906052B If you have factory SAI, you can use a harness from SC Skunkwerks to steal the SAI pressure sensor wiring for logging purposes.

@datadrivenmqb Rockstar thank you, I don't have SAI since I have an R, but I'm gonna try to wire it into the ecu. Just need to find an open pin accepting 5v.

@@blahbergerpoke someone with an R has wired it to the same pin that is normally used for SAI for what it’s worth. The 5v signal still works as an input to the ECU. I’m not sure where he pulled the 5v reference and ground from though. At some point I’ll write up all the info on how to get it wired up and start logging.

​@datadrivenmqb So did some digging and looks like the sai is on pin 9 or 21 but the diagrams i got seem to be missing data. Gonna get an erwin sub and see if I can use the interactive diagram to pin it out. Should be a straight forward task to wire into the ecu.

​@datadrivenmqb Do you use Mode 22 or 3E and do you by chance have the address and formula you use to log the pcv sensor? I'm gonna try to build a harness for this sometime next week wanted to get Simos tools setup.

plz keep us updated on this :)

@@ronniemattsson will do. I should add that it looked like the oil residue was right by the breather that comes off the pcv and connects to the turbo inlet.

Yeah man, genuine parts from an actual dealership or nothing when it comes to these valves. Hope it continues to work just fine!

@@datadrivenmqb Thank you. Lesson learned.

@@ronniemattsson doesn’t sound like PCV related to be honest. If the dealer cross references your valve to BL, the MK8 retrofit will likely work just fine (without cutting the hole in the valve). Not sure I’d expect it to fix that issue but who knows?

@@Lars_Lu possible, yes. Not sure if it would be beneficial without the Venturi. If sticking to MK7 valves I’d be inclined to try a BM version.

@@blahbergerpoke it seems primarily isolated to GTIs more than anything else. So far there’s a single S3 that’s had issues when tracking, though it also has a big turbo FWIW. He hasn’t tried the modification yet, but we’ve got the PCV sensor actually functional on his car so we’re working through assessing and confirming if that’ll be the fix. There’s a LOT of useful info to be gained by having that sensor it seems. Currently working out what is “normal” on a few various cars since mine is the only one I’ve had data on up until last week. If you’re not having issues, I wouldn’t change a thing.

@datadrivenmqb awesome, do you have any details on the sensor and if it can be retrofitted? I was wondering about it myself if it had any value and if the existing ecu in the mk7 can feed off it or if you need a proper ecu rom. I also wonder if it's an is20 vs is38 thing as well.

@@blahbergerpoke it’s in the plans to do a write up/video on adding the sensor. It’s easier on cars with SAI, but one guy has successfully added it by adding a pin to the ECU of a Golf R (no SAI - but the 5v signal still registers when logged).

@datadrivenmqb Awesome to hear I've already wired my e85 sensor to the ECU so no big would be exciting to get the sensor wired in and actually log. One last question, I see you have been doing a lot of TIP combo testing. I installed the 034 TIP at the same time as the MK8 pcv, running stock is38, would it be better to switch back to stock or is this combo fine for vacuum?

@@blahbergerpoke 034 TIP should be good to go based on my testing. The Venturi basically makes up for the lack of natural TIP vacuum.

@@Renaldo181 start with performing compression and leak-down tests. No sense in throwing parts at a car without verifying mechanical condition. If it’s all the time under those conditions, that sounds less like PCV and more like something else, but I’d at least rule out mechanical issues first. Also make sure the oil isn’t overfilled.

@@datadrivenmqb yeah thats what I was thinking too. I have it booked for tomorrow. It only gives puffs of smoke under boost and also soot on the back or my car so I think there is a series of problems.

@@ChrisGlasson my general stance is if you don’t have an actual problem, don’t try and mess with what works. Aftermarket TIPs are not “ideal” for OEM PCVs, but they can be “fine” for most. That said, I noticed zero noise difference stock vs BMS TIP and whatever power difference there might be is negligible at best. Especially on IS20. Cold idle being high could be stuff like active catalyst heating taking place. These things will idle higher for longer in colder temps as we go into fall/winter, generally speaking. I suspect due to the two major PCV styles (15-18 vs 19+) that 19+ have considerably lower chances of any issues after a retrofit since the MK8 valve functions much like the BK on most 19-21 GTIs and BL on 19 Rs.

@@datadrivenmqb fair enough. Eventually do want to add a catch can i dont think that would really hurt much personally

For track use, it's probably the "safer" bet. If you find the can filling up excessively fast - I think that may point towards having crankcase seal leaks (or you have a TIP that pulls way too much vacuum - basically if you go for a plate system then something like the BMS TIP is more ideal since there's no diaphragm to regulate the vacuum down). Just fitted my crankcase sensor and PCV sensor on a full retrofitted 2015 GTI that still smoked (even with the modified valve)... we found very low vacuum readings on both, and confirmed a leaking rear main seal. Plan is to fix everything leaking (also had leaking timing cover, though far less severe) and then fit the sensors to his car again and measure the improvement to see if it ends up closer to what my 2019 GTI reads or not.

@@datadrivenmqb my car has a newly rebuilt short block and hadn't had any issues. The other day we did a few hard pulls / stops back to back testing brakes and we had the smoke show. Thought I had blown it up. But it had not other issues, smoke stopped and it has been fine and hasn't done it again with normal driving in addition to some pulls... everything is normal -no noises, makes same power etc. Car is G25-660 with forged rods/pistons. So figuring it's this issue since its a 15'. It's a daily driver but I don't want to go through a retrofit only to find it didn't fix it so looking for a permanent solution. This car could see autoX duty as well. Is the APR the best plate system or are their others equally good - or better values. At $700+ it's not really an inexpensive "catch can" like we run on LS setups. Appreciate your feedback!

​@@dexterracingful honestly there are no guarantees regardless of what you run - engine condition and how "tight" the crankcase is (piston rings, all seals that oil touches - everything) will be what determines degree of success. PCV plates appear to be far more tolerant of less than perfect conditions, and *should* solve any large smoking issues. Conversely I know of several people who switched from various plate systems to MK8 retrofits and they claim it runs better. I'm hesitant to say that anyone "should" run the MK8 valve on any kind of built engines or big turbos... people have done so successfully but if there's one thing that's clear this entire learning experience has been a clusterfuck trying to pick up all the pieces of the jigsaw puzzle. FWIW in my opinion the APR is worth the premium over the others on the market. I am intrigued/interested in the 034 kit due to the return to sump setup as well, but the APR is the only thing I've physically tested.

@@datadrivenmqb really appreciate the feedback man. You know far more about it than I do so leaning on your experience here!

@@hussainbuhamad592 I'm planning on focusing on Simos Tools content more this winter.

It's been on for a month or two now. Sort of shook down at a test track day but that was more to sort out the tune quickly. Few autocross events since but will be running it at Fastivus in ~3 weeks at Summit Point.

@@datadrivenmqb that’s awesome, I’ve been so busy with work and out of it I missed all of the fun changes.

@@W0LV1E45 it measures the PCV vacuum source. Can also capture positive pressure crankcase events. Sounds like you might have a failed valve. Pressure sensor failure is relatively uncommon.

@@datadrivenmqb I replaced it and the code P0452 disappears. I'm so pissed since I bought a new evap leak detection pump for it twice but both didn't work. Turns out it is that map sensor on top of that pcv valve that is the culprit. I thought it was the wiring at first so I stripped the tape to check the condition.

@@W0LV1E45 yeah, if the EVAP system doesn't have a sufficient vacuum source OR if it ever sees pressure or a lack of vacuum when it's expecting to see vacuum, it'll set that EVAP DTC.

@@maciejkrasienko8164 yes

034 don't hurt caster as far as I can tell. Not a fan of the bump steer due to the 18mm (their website says 10, it's wrong) of RC correction with no way to correct bump steer. White line is about 8mm RC and combined with the KCA 462 bump steer sleeves (bushings in the kit are no good, just the sleeves) offset almost all of that (7mm bump steer correction). There will still be a tad bit but it's far less egregious. I added back caster via JXB sphericals in the rear position. Still not a fan of the adjustable ball joints from a "might slip" perspective, but has not been an issue yet.

@@crazycaseyscustoms yeah really shouldn't matter. I've had the compressor down to 70psi when I tripped a breaker or forgot to turn the compressor on and stuff works, it's just weak and slow.