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Two things: That's not a "crush" sleeve, it's just a spacer. Crush sleeves are single-use, found only in a few limited applications, and they actually "crush" at a particular torque value. Second, those front cab mounts aren't "time welded". That's how they come from the factory--the washers and bushings are manufactured as a single piece. Otherwise, great video!

You have to give that engine some love. It hasn't been cleaned in ages...

Great video and truck!!!! Heard about linseed oil for my antique lantern.. thanks for your help and keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍 cheers 🦘🦘🦘

I have a 2005 Silverado. I’ve noticed the gauge light dimmer switch doesn’t work since I replaced the cluster with a new LED lit one. Also, the light switch isn’t lit at all with the headlights on at night. Either the switch is bad or I’ve had a mouse eat some wires. That’s one of the issues with living on rural property! I’m going to try replacing the switch first with a new one. I appreciate your help with this video. You got a new subscriber. Edit: I checked your link and got the switch on Amazon for less than $20. I learned from the reviews that GM has a reputation for headlight switches going bad with age. I’m adding fog lights to my truck anyway so now’s the time to replace this switch. Even if the gauge light dimmer doesn’t work, the switch backlight should.

Thanks for the advice. My truck is already patina but i am putting a new cowl hood and need to match. Thanks for the tips! Just wait a month or so for clear coat?

I’ve got a ‘65 C10 that I’ve been wanting to do this to… was great to find another C10 as an example.

Have a 2002 chevy silverado and both my low beams wont turn on. I checked all fuses, relays, pigtails, wiring harness and bulbs. They all work fine. Will this dimmer switch work?

looks really good definitely gonna attempt to re create hahaha

Thanks big time for the video on this topic! Gotta do this job on my 2006 LQ4 powered Yukon. Also the noted thought on the crank pulley leak was helpful as I got under to inspect and it looks like mine is leaking in that same spot as well. Any chance you have a video in doing that seal replacement?

Love the truck! Looks awesome. Learned a lot from your videos 👍 thanks! What is your solution for the clear coat? Was going to do the wipe on clear as well but if it isnt good with the spray paint?!?

When I was a kid my dad had a 1953 chev as our everyday drive. It was grey in color and had the clip in wheel wall covers. I think 54 was the last year they had the clip ins.

Hi mate, just wondering what you used as a clear coat, I have a project that i might use some spray paint on and was going to use poppys patina satin as well but now i'm unsure hahaha stitch up is i have already ordered the poppys so i might have to ditch the idea of adding spray paint, any and all help would be appreciated!!! Fyi my car is completely painted already, but was going to scratch it back.

good job. looks great great

I’m thinking about doing the sponge method like you did on my existing faded paint on my truck. Black and red oxide/dark brown. Do you think I should wet sand that down to fade it in with the existing paint? Maybe with a scotch brite pad?

Hello. How long did you wait between coats/bottles? thank you

Hello. How long did you wait between coats/bottles? Thank you

I have a long bed you think this kit will be enough ?

Truck is cool- all the matchie-copper stuff looks cheap/tacky. Too much matchie things on old cars that aren’t totally 100% mod just doesn’t stand the test of time. BUT the truck itself looks awesome. Sorry for being harsh. It’s not my truck I know. But I gotta call it.

Looks awesome. I think I’ll just do the patina pebbles on mine. The bottom’s a little too much for me. Awesome job!

Excellent video.

Love your videos, I got a 64 Chevrolet pick up with a 350 in it. I had it since I was 16 years old and I’m 53 now. what town are you located?

Looking nice pal, gonna try it on my '53 Jeep CJ

WARNING MUST BE WATCHED MUTED BECAUSE OF INAPPROPRIATE MIND NUMBING VOMIT INDUCING BACKGROUND MUSIC. What is wrong with you people who need your feeble minds constantly inundated with this Tweedledee Tweedledum Ga Ga Pooh background music?

If the worst happens, and you break off the bolt down below the block, Find another bolt, same size same thread count. Put that bolt in a lathe and drill the center out full length. Screw in that bolt with what threads are left in the block. It acts as a dead centering tool. Once you have a hole dead centered, you can start to incrementally getting larger drill bits, until you get to the max size, without cutting any metal from the block. Do not try to center the drill bit by eyeball. It will not be centered and you will create a mess. Then use a good sharp thread tap to get the remaining metal from the threads, and your home free.

Ridiculous that the factory puts Lock Tite on the manifold bolt. Heat loosens Lock Tite. Exhaust manifolds get HOT.

use velcro for that metal line to snug it up to the lift. Secure and can be moved and removed easily. Stick on velcro

I replace that too and doesnt fix the problem also check the fiuses and there okay

I replaced mine and my dash lights are still dim and the left side is dark. There are no bulbs on the back of the cluster board. Leds soldered in the board. May be the board.

Nice ride HOMIE

Great Vehicle 👍

Love the truck! the copper is a great accent color. Looking forward to the interior upgrades!

I had low mileage 53 Bel-Air as my first car in 1969. It was all black with a three speed manual transmission. It was some first car for a seventeen year old. What I remember, it was big (fit thirteen people in it once). It was slow (shift into 3rd gear around thirty mph.and that was it. Stopping and steering was like being in a boat, turn that big steering wheel and you would gradually come-about, if you didn’t slow down, you didn’t turn. BTW, it had about 26 grease fittings, no oil filter so an oil change was due every 1,000 miles.The vacuum wipers stopped on the uphills. I seemed to have a flat tire every week. The radio killed the battery in three minutes. It was great for the drive in movies (up high & plenty of room). Supposedly the 1953 had full pressure lubrication nevertheless I blew the engine on a nonstop trip from Montreal to NYC. It was pedal to the metal all the way, and when I got home the engine sounded like a coffee grinder. You always remember your first. My next car was 58 Impala (160K miles and the cam went), after that a 64 Impala which the junk yard owner may still be driving.

Awesome car

Was super helpful

Sweet

We're thrilled you like it, thank you for the shout out!

Sorry, but way too many Ya'lls to continue ...

Thanks for the help. My 05 silverado was having the same issue.

Do you know what the paint code is of the green? I had my paint shop mix up the 503 light green GM code we5121 and it looks more minty than yours. Maybe its because you sprayed a lighter coat over a dark base?

Awesome and thanks! Going to do my 64 d100 very similar

I was just under my hood looking at a cam sensor leak and noticed a broken exhaust manifold bolt. This happened spontaneously because the motor has never been touched. Doesnt seem to have been leaking there so I'm just going to pretend I didnt notice it

I can't get either of the airbag springs to release. Any tricks you can give? Great video

Dude, those look great! congrats

Your shop is so nice where did you get your building from?

What about running the engine to get it hot then wrenching on the bokts. Would that help at all?

You'll want some anti-seize on there. Two years from now, you have to drill them out otherwise. We used stainless screws in aluminum rivnuts and still had occasional issues.

Great job and great success 😊

who did you get your mirrors from?

Where did you get your mirrors?

Omg what a car nice.