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@@jwruskus5900 moet je zeker doen! Inderdaad, rustig aan. Zelfs in Marokko kan je verdwalen en je tank leegrijden of zonder water komen te zitten. Mobiele ontvangst ook niet in afgelegen gebieden. Maar het is prachtig!

@@csta92 Hi, notice that around 2021 AJP launched the new PR7 model where the ECU was changed from Delphi to one from Athena. This video is only relevant for the pre 2021 models that have the Delphi unit. The ECU in the video is the original Delphi unit that came with the DOMA power kit but it was flashed with the latest (at the time) mapping made by Thork racing. I have no experience with the newer bikes that have the Athena CPU.

@@joacerbis many thanks ! I’m asking for a 2020 bike

@@csta92 DOMA power kit includes ECU with different mapping than stock exhaust. You end up with 2 ECUs. Same hardware just different firmware (mapping). But the DOMA mapping that left the factory still needed some work and that's where Thork racing did a good job.

@@conradfischer2177 Hi Conrad, the O2 sensor in the exhaust is only needed if you have a catalytic converter. It's better to disconnect if you have the doma exhaust. The mapping for the doma exhaust doesn't use the O2 sensor at all. And even if used it only serves to adjust the fuel air mixture to prevent damage to the catalytic converter (which the doma doesn't have) and not to adjust mixture for altitude. The MAP sensor is the one to provide the ECU with information to which a good ECU mapping would adjust correctly for altitude. The factory mapping is not good. Make sure you have the latest mapping. A lot of work was put in a correct mapping by the guys from Thork racing.

@joacerbis thank you for making me smarter on the O2 sensor function! Since the AJP and many other Bikes do not carry a MAP-Sensor, I assume adaption to high altitude will then be done in a different way, so I´ll stop worrying. Again thank you for taking the time to answer 🙂

@@conradfischer2177 you're welcome. The map sensor is located inside the throttle body. It's on the left side behind the big butterfly valve. The ECU still needs to be programmed and it takes a person to do this who actually took the bike to high altitudes to collect data. Anything above 3000 meters you are lucky if the manufacturer went thru the trouble to collect data. I haven't taken the bike that high so I can't tell you.

Yes 17l is stock.

The capacitor is rated 25V 10.000µF (ten thousand microfarad). The 25 volts is based on 2x the approx. 14V provided by the alternator. This way you are safe to peak voltages and the capacitor will last longer under load. There are many manufacturers. I was able to order from Conrad, a big supplier in Germany, this one: "Nichicon LGU1E103MELA". Here is a nice video of someone who wired the same capacitor: ruclips.net/video/AExbwWBkdCo/видео.html

Thanks for watching. You cannot physically place the oil filter in the wrong way. It wouldn't fit. I sold the bike a few years back. It was in great condition then and I'm confident the new owner took good care of it.

I sold the bike a few years ago. I lived in The Netherlands and it was bought by a German. He was a Guzzi enthousiast. I hope he took good care of it. It was a really great bike.

Nope. Sold it years ago to a German fellow. Would like to have it now. It was a fun bike and very rare.

The capacitor is rated 25V 10.000µF (ten thousand microfarad). The 25 volts is based on 2x the approx. 14V provided by the alternator. This way you are safe to peak voltages and the capacitor will last longer under load. There are many manufacturers. I was able to order from Conrad, a big supplier in Germany, this one: "Nichicon LGU1E103MELA". Here is a nice video of someone who wired the same capacitor: ruclips.net/video/AExbwWBkdCo/видео.html

Hi David, I took the crossing from Sète to Nador. It's a nice boat ride. Beats riding the long tarmac to Algeciras in my opinion.

@@joacerbis 👍 and did you put the bike on a trailer to cross France - Spain?

@@davemanttt I left the car and trailer at a guarded parking in Sète and then just rode the bike on to the ferry.

Via GPS. It doesn't have cell phone capability. You can't insert a sim card.

Sorry for this late reply. The speedo uses a sensor located in the front brake rotor. The factory has set the wheel circumference in the speedo, similar to what you'd do yourself when you get a simple bicycle speedo. I am sure they have made it hard for the user to change any settings in the speedo. Without being able to change the setting your only option would be to have an electronic device in between that adjusts the signal rate. They exist. By the way, my speedo was pretty accurate with knobby tires.

It comes standard with the bike along with the tablet to fit inside of it. It has a part number so it can also be ordered separately as a (spare) part from AJP.

The screen is not really bright enough in bright sunlight. It's useable as long as your navigation app uses contrasting colors. Higher brightness would make it a lot better. The high brightness tablets fall into a different price category I'm afraid.

No man, it was awful. The screen is way too dim in bright sunlight. A dedicated tablet with super bright screen is required.

@@joacerbis on one of your videos you had a white tablet mounted, was that one any better?

Hoi Maarten, ik heb mijn PR7 een half jaar geleden verkocht. Reden is dat ik het idee had om met een lichtere enduro op pad te willen. Eventueel vervoer van de motor op de aanhanger. Vanwege de coronatoestand ontgaat mij de lust van het reizen op de motor en heb nog geen vervanger aangeschaft. Dit beantwoordt je vraag natuurlijk niet. Wat mij betreft is de PR7 de meest hard core 'all road' waarmee je nog best aangenaam over de geasfalteerde wegen kan rijden. In de laatste versie zijn verbeteringen aangebracht zoals de Athena ECU, Brembo remmen, gefreesde alu linkage vork, etc. Wel moet je rekening houden met het feit dat je veel maar niet alle onderdelen zomaar even bij je plaatselijke motorzaak kan kopen. Je zal zelf een en ander aan onderhoud moeten doen. Zou ik 'm weer kopen? Nee. Nu zou ik gaan voor een CRF300L of Rally en zou de vering upgraden evenals de gebruikelijk zaken zoals bash plate, etc...

@@joacerbis Dank je wel voor je uitgebreide antwoord. Wat maakt dat je nu voor een CRF300 zou gaan? Je hebt de power niet nodig? Het is inderdaad goed om te beseffen dat de onderdelen niet zo makkelijk te halen zijn als voor een willekeurige Honda. Dit is ook een reden dat ik twijfel om er één te kopen voor langdurig reizen, want de CRF300L (of soortgelijk) heeft ook veel voordelen, al zou ik die niet zo snel gebruiken om te gaan dagtouren met familie waar de PR7 dat wel kan (lijkt mij).

@@Valc09 De vorige keer ben ik met auto en aanhanger met daarop mijn AJP en de motor van een maat naar Sète, Frankrijk gereden. Auto daargelaten, motoren op de veerboot en Marokko doorgemotord. In Marokko zou ik liever op een ik noem maar wat een Yamaha WR450F gezeten hebben of op een 250. Daarmee kan je technische stukken rijden. Minimale bagagemogelijkheid natuurlijk. Asfalt moet je ook tot een minimum beperkt houden. Enduro is regelmatig onderhoud. Maar wat een fun zal je daarmee beleven. Vervolgens in NL staat dat ding vooral in de garage. Vandaar de interesse in de CRF300. Zwaar voor een enduro maar een stuk lichter dan een PR7. Zuinig, lange onderhoudsintervallen en voor mij belangrijk veel onderdelen voor te krijgen. Grote aftermarket. Vering direkt wat aan doen. Je kan ermee op de snelweg. Maar goed, ik heb zo'n CRF300 nog niet geprobeerd en misschien is het helemaal niks.

Great to hear man! I hope you managed the 1000k service without any problems.

Not really, but expect it to use a bit more fuel as it run a little bit richer.

I'm about 177cm. 83cm inseam. Touching the ground was never a problem on this bike. The rear has quite a bit of sag. So I don't think you'd have a lot of trouble.

The dashboard app is called Drive Mode Dashboard. You can find it inside the Google Playstore. Regarding a 3d printed tablet case. I bet some people have done that. But I can't help you out with that one. 2nd part of the video is still somewhat planned.

i use a tablet CROSSCALL T4 it work very good

Hi Justin, I have not tried to get apple CarPlay working. For the gloved operation, I sewed conductive wire in the index finger tips of my gloves. That works really well. I no longer use the ipad on the bike. Too much trouble with the connector. Maybe if you don't go offroad and you have less vibration the wiring will last longer.

Thanks @@joacerbis! Looking forward to the next video. I was wondering if the USB C connector iPads would fair better. But then again that’s a pretty expensive experiment and I believe you might be able to run Apple CarPlay on an android tablet, although I haven’t really investigated

Can you please share a link to purchase the housing ( tablet mount)

Too bad for your fuel issue, but great to hear that my video helped you out! Have a great trip!

Sorry man. I'm not a native English speaker and I tend to pronounce J as 'Zjee '.

Hi James, the new video won't be coming soon I'm afraid. However I can share with you my experience. I have used the IPad mini4 which I mounted using a Ram Mount Type-C. A bit bigger than the traditonal Type-C ball. The shell for the IPad is an aiShell. Experience has not been good. Here's why: 1. Display not bright enough in bright daylight. Display on 100% brightness already. 2. Charging cable fails. Even though the plug is secured to the case, the connection eventually fails. This is due to vibration and the lightning connector being a weak spot to start with. 3. The aiShell screen protector easily scratches. A solution with traditional cable and plug does not work reliably off road.. Wireless charging could be a solution or a dedicated device mount connector. That or having a big battery of course.

Congrats! I'm always curious at navigation solutions. The Samsung tablet is good for the fact that it's a pretty cheap device. Screen readability in sunshine is not bad. So, yes the tablet is enough. Just using the tablet as a navigation device, nothing else. A rugged phone could replace the tablet or be an extra. If you can manage to get a stable power connection to the phone and provide enough charge to run the screen at full brightness, which is required in bright daylight, you have a good piece of kit. Maybe wireless charging would provide enough power to the phone to keep it charged up. RAM has some nice solutions. It can get expensive. If you go that way, I'd be interested to hear your findings. Another thing is that buttons on the handlebar to do some basic operations on the navigation device is extremely handy and much safer than trying to operate the navigation device while standing up on the pegs and going thru some nasty terrain. For example the buttons made by Thork racing are nice. They would also work with your (Android) phone.

@@joacerbis Thanks for your kind answer. I'll start using the tablet and find out if I need an additional rugged phone. I'll also check Thork web page. Thanks !!

@@CesarLopez-hh7cd For the rugged phone that can serve as a navigation device I think that the CrossCall Core X4 would work. It can be operated in rain and with gloves. They seem to have a pretty good mount for it as well.

@@joacerbis downside of wireless charging is all the heat it generates. I’ve had my iPhone power down due to overheating just charging it with a normal cable already. That would get a lot worse with wireless charging. Although it’s so much more convenient to operate with a gloved hand… wireless charging + active cooling?

@@justinhalsall4077 Yeah I was thinking the same about the heat. I have purchased the CrossCall "Core M5" phone 2 weeks ago. It comes with a pretty decent mount. I do plan to make a video about this setup soon. I might get the Thork racing remote control thingy to avoid having to mess with the gloves on the screen. However, with the conductive wire its not bad.

I doubt that it will make a difference using brake cleaner or gasoline. Use what you have. Yes, you can remove the oil filter without removing the manifolds. Remove the muffler and undo the bolt that holds it in place along with the brake pedal. Then you can press down on the pipe just enough to have space to remove the filter without bending. This way you don't have to undo the pipe at the cylinder head and saves you a bunch of hassle.

Hi Titus, the manual does not specify much beyond how to change a light bulb. I recommend looking at the bottom right mesh filter during first inspection after engine break-in, as this is when most metal particles will come out, and then every 10k. No need to check too often.