Видео

How is the repair attempt going? Any good?

A job well done, thanks for the video

never seen diesel that colour ,give it to someone with diesel heater

Looking at that diesel it looks contaminated, I would check for diesel "bug" There is info on youtube like this one. ruclips.net/video/u2__7sr22Xs/видео.htmlsi=5JhmHyqIhjAPae5e

You just done all the work cleaning... putting back in old fuel again is very good aidia for new start!😂

kills me when i see a big hole chopped in the floor of any defender its just wrong,do it properly pull the tank out its a pain but if your gonna do a job do it rite.I personally would of stuck all the filters in the dish washer thats were i normally put anything that needs a deep clean lol some may say no no no you cant do that but i do it anyway and it comes out like new.

Yep, diesel bug. Same happened to my classic truck. I’m no expert but it lives on the bio part of the fuel when there is water present. Sometimes water gathers at the bottom of fuel tanks over years of use and condensation. In my case I kept cleaning the tank unit filter but it kept blocking. In the end I drained the tank and steam cleaned it. No problem since.

Diesel bug

It’s possible to change without taking the foot peddle frame off. I did it by bending a ratchet spanner. Nice video.

No bottom spring bracket?

Very interesting! You appear to have a high capacity sump on your transfer box? Also I note that you had no handbrake cable obscuring access to the fill plug? Mine is a 2003 TD5 Defender and the handbrake cable passes right up against the plug , I made a tool to fit into the 1/2" square plug with a hexagon head, that way it can more easily be turned out. You used a EP 75/90 oil I see, I have just replaced the oil with a recommended ATF type oil, but it was so noisy I have no put EP 75/90 oil in, now there is an improvement, but before I changed oil it was silent, I have now ordered an Ashcroft replacement. Chris B.

Do you need to drain the cylinder is you aren't replacing it? Or can you just unscrew and then reattach?

Thanks for posting - had done the same work to our '94 RRC, just came along to see how similar the Defender is. I like the style of your vid with the voiceover, rather than the grunting and wheezing I end up with haha.

Diesel Defenders love old oil, filter to five microns or less and mix 50/50 with diesel. Sump, diff, transfer and gearbox oils all work. Do you know what happens to used engine oil you recycle? It gets filtered and has diesel added and is used as fuel oil for ships. You might as well burn it yourself, just don't tell the tax man 😉

You open the filler cap before you open the drain plug... allowing air to enter without glugging.

A BIT LIKE ME CHANGE OIL MORE THAN LESS KEEP ON TOP OF THINGS TO PREVENT BREAKDOWNS TO A MINIMUM ALL THE BEST

Great video as usual, have to do mine soon, would loveto borrow your assistant

I don't care if you did anything incorrect in this video but I have to say this is how all mechnic explanation videos should be made! Perfect angles, explanation and demonstation, no extra fluff like many do and explained what you're doing with which tools like a lot of people miss out! Nice one, subscribed.

Did this solve the problem? Wondered if it was the adjustment on the master cylinder resulting in front brake application?

How did you bleed the brake fluid?

Thanks very much and God bless you for your hard work for the sake of us the beginners.

Pro tip, get a Makita DTW1002Z. The tightest bolts come off as though they were finger tight. I've had nuts my breaker won't budge and this Makita whipped it off.

Excellent video! This is not a difficult job, but does take a lot of patience, I found I needed to make up a lot of special spanners to get the various fixings , I also had to do the job twice as the new master cylinder had a crack in the inlet port, so I got better at it the second time around, I know it is too late now , but it would have been a good idea to replace the slave cylinder at the same time, mine is a 2003 and both were less than perfect, I also replaced the master cylinder with the small bore type which makes a bit difference to the clutch pedal operation, replacing the slave cylinder requires multiply sizes of spanner, and is a real test of patience! Chris B.

Many thanks for posting this excellent video! It makes a change to see a Defender on a youtube video that does not look like it has been buried at sea for 10 years. The underbody of your Defender looks really nice condition, and that does make working on it much easier, I always find a good pressure wash before work makes things a lot less of a problem. Well done! Chris B.

Thanks for the video, I’d recommend heavy duty axle stands when you’re doing a job like that. Belt and braces as it’s not worth the risk to your safety. Me and the mate often work on our Landys and I’m always getting told off by him to be safer and safer (which I’m now learning lol) If you had jacked up the rear axle one side at a time you could take the wheel off and allow more access to see what’s going on. Lots of fiddly wee jobs but well done getting it done !

Outstanding 👍👍

I don't think there is any issue doing it without jacking the chassis, so long as you only do one side at a time.

I did the same job on my 1992 disco the other day. All my nuts & bolt where rusted solid 😱. Good video mate. Subscribed 👍

Congratulations

Would you like me to ring Gregg's agency to see if they will sponsor you? Or at least send you a vegan sausage roll in the post?

Thanks for video - Quick question..if you keep your diesel tank full..how long can you drive without that plastic thing you modified?

Thanks for video ..

I’ve done 150,000 miles in 12 years in my 2003 td5 double cab and changed this little filter several times due to the same issue. How can such a small piece of plastic cause so many sleepless nights!!!!!! I keep one as a spare just incase

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Cracking vlog buddy and thanks for sharing.

You know you're using that ball joint splitter the wrong way round don't you? The end is meant to be against the ball joints threaded end and the fork goes between the ball joint gaitor and the steering arm! As you tighten the bolt the splitter pushes the tapper out, as has been said, you don't need a splitter anyway , a quick bang with a hammer on the end of the steering arm will shock the taper out of its seat. It's also worth mentioning that your drag link (yes it's the drag link) is none standard (prob heavy duty) , a gen land rover one uses a small clamp and not a lock nut.

all you had to do was hit the end of the hub arm with a mash hammer or dead blow instead of messing about they pop straight out i do em all the time.your swivel seal looks like it needs doing too .never put one of these ends in dry allways use anti seize or copperslip for next time make your life much easier

Great video. Question.....what were your symptoms that led you to replace the radial arms? And more importantly, how was the result? Thank you.

Did you readjust the freeplay?

Your videos are very helpful to me I’m building a defender 110 at the moment just got my new galved chassis and bulkhead I feel out of my depth and your videos help thanks

GLAD TO SEE YOUR PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE AS UNDERSIDE LOOKING GOOD ALL THE BEST

Great instruction, a pleasure to watch thank you.

Brilliant job thank you for sharing.

Be aware copper grease is abrasive, should use ceramic grease / antifret paste etc. Copper grease has not really had a valid application on a car since the 80's.Best place for it is the bin! Great video!

promo sm

in Video looks easier but I am sure there must have been lots of swearing! I also replaced one and bushes. Removing old bushes were annoying! Next time I will do wheel off as it was very heard to alight the holes!

Nice job looks good hay, you need to do a tour video of the rig brother 👊🏽

Cracking vlog, thanks for sharing.

Cracking honest vlog and thanks for sharing.

Are you able to provide a link to where you sourced your radius arms? Great vid