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If you don't have the original gasket to scan I'd say take a picture of the surface, take a couple measurements and make a rough drawing on top of the picture. Test cut it with paper to check the fit. Then use some little trial and error until it fits right.

In the carb? And with a Weber? Float valve is faulty somehow; not set right, or just not working. Or fuel pump is creating too much pressure for the valve; cars with mechanical pumps can only deal with a few PSI, newer pumps can generate way more than needed causing leaks. Take the output tube off the pump stick a funnel in it and pour some fuel into it and see if it still leaks... if not its the pump pressure, if so, then work your way down the line to where the fuel is coming out and you got the source of the problem.

The 3 bolt points as far as I can tell are in the C pillar, in the rail just behind the door, and under the seat on the seat frame. Some people build something to mount something in the trunk, but the car originally wasn't designed to have anything mounted in the trunk.

Short answer is that I don't have the original set. Car came with this setup. My guess is whoever did it couldn't find the separate intake manifold when they swapped in the sport exhaust and manifold (Probably needed due to rust since this car was near the beach for a long time). On paper the weber can tune for more fuel, which usually means more power, but in this car, not so much; so at the end of it all, whoever did it, was going for the typical exhaust upgrade, and didn't know what the trade off was. I did pick up a replacement pair, but I don't know the condition, nor do I have all the parts to do it. Its not a simple swap since I would need to buy a new linkage and set it all up, etc. Once Marty is driving well I can take on more with Newton. I want to keep one of the two running, and this sort of job would probably take me quite a while with my current schedule. Maybe one day :)

@@MakeitOnce Bag the Weber.

Yup and yup :) At this point I'm good enough with the pen tool, that I'd do it that way in most cases. I think I just showed it this way for ease of entry sort of example.

It's a vacuum line to the distributor. Fuel is the bigger tube on the front side.

This video was the start of a long process of figuring out the problem (You gotta keep watching all the videos about the carb). What I discovered since then, is that the Weber Carbs have an open vent port from the bowl to the engine compartment, so between driving, the gas in the bowl evaporates within a day or less on a warm day. I had put in a K&N air filter which made it even worse. When I would go to start up the car after a day, there was no fuel in the bowl, and I indeed had a starved condition. Pumping the pedal wasn't doing anything until the bowl filled up. I also installed a lesser fuel pump, so it took a few seconds to build up a little head pressure to get gas into the bowl. I needed to crank it a few seconds, then wait for the fuel to travel up to the bowl for about 20 seconds, then I crank again and it starts. Now, that's my process and works every time. Additionally, in later videos, I show how the carb wasn't tuned right, the choke cable was bent, and the choke butterfly was loose and never sealed with choke pulled. I fixed all that, so now when I pull the choke it actually closes off, and once I wait a few seconds for some fuel to get to the bowl, it starts without any pedal pumping, or fiddling. If I really wanted to make this work with the weber, I would install a rare Weber cold air intake that has a louver built in, so when the engine isn't running no air gets in or out of the carb. That would in theory keep the gas from evaporating, and regulate air flow and temp, so the mix would actually be tunable. Unrestricted air flow in these engines doesn't seem to work well at low RPM. The Weber just isn't designed for this car, and none of it is well suited for warm California air.

@@MakeitOnce thanks!!!👍👍👍

Glad it helped.

Cutting by hand isn't exact and that's a fact jack

And I challenge you to make one in a minute.

I gently pried it with a screw driver, then smashed the seal in place. Not the best, but that day was frustrating. If I had known how much rain Califa would be getting this year, I would have doubled back and fit all the seals a bit better (and finished the trunk and quarters). The test will be when I can get in there during dry weather and see if anything leaked. Thanks for the interest.

Doors, windows, and trunk seal are my next undertaking.

What I have found, at least here in typically dry Califa (not this year, though!!!!) it actually evaporates into a powdery caked residue within a couple days. The "bowl" of the Weber isn't sealed/baffled at all, and with a K&N the gas just disappears. The jelly thing must be a pre-ethanol thing, cause I've never seen it on either Newton or Marty, and they both have sat with gas for long periods of time. Still a bad residue that needs cleaning cause it binds the moving parts even worse, but not a sticky mess. :)

I never did find out. David Bello did a video series on this car when he came to get it, but didn't get in to the details. It's all fixed up and driving around in SoCal which is cool.

This one ended up down south via David Bello in the hands of a older Volvo nut who restored it completely. Great story.

@@MakeitOnce nice to see there's still love for the old 164

I show it in the video. The owners manual lists the weights needed.

Yes, I will be investing in one, when I get back to the engine. Might also go to an electric fan, depending on the cooling needs when I get the good bits in place. I kinda think of this as a later piece to decide based on need.

I have good mounts. I'm starting to speculate that the bowl shape isn't well suited to this side mount setup. There is a lot of rocking motion when on the side of the engine instead of on top. Instead of just vibration, it seems to move a lot. A lot of people think the big problem is cause of the bends in the intake, uneven heating, and air flow, but seeing it wiggle around, I can only imagine the gas sloshing around the relatively flat "bowl" has a big impact.

​@@MakeitOnce that might actually be true. One common issue on the b14 engine was that carb would actually shake loose and you had to retighten it every now and then.

I’ve had this same problem! Comes out of adjustment every few months and runs poor. Ordered new mounts as they are clearly gone then saw your comment so will be changing them tomorrow then tuning 👍🏼

Yes. I didn't look like the transmission fluid had been changed in decades.

@@MakeitOnce I hope you put fresh transmission oil to keep the Amazon going it is a nice car,strong, indestructuble