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Thanks. Throttle bodies : kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/throttle-bodies/bodies/throttlebody-twin EFI : EFIgnition 46, www.efignition.nl/c-3632985/efignition-46/ , no longer available ( it is a megasquirt rip of ). EFI is possible, I'm no expert on this topic and it's been a steep learning curve. Based on some flow testing I think a 40 mm EFI gives you the power output off 45 mm carbs. EFI gives you data logging and a quick and easy change of the tune. Carburettors in combination with 123 programmable ignition works also great. Good Luck.

@@nord.tuning Thank you for the links.

I did not include it in the video because it is a standard procedure and had nothing to add. I used silicone grease on the O ring because the surfaces where good. Iff the surfaces are bad use silicone sealant . Good Luck.

yes, correct statment I think.

Correct. If you have OEM products the bearing crush should be correct . Now with no more OEM products available anymore it is good practice to check if it is close to spec.

Thanks.🙂

I have double checked, and the lobes of the cams I have are the same. They both have 10mm lift. I measured the cams in my own test rig. The numbers are 105 48 03 200 01 and 105 48 032 00 51. There is a difference in the ramp leading up to the lobe this gives the 51 cam more off seat duration at the same valve lash. So no idea were different numbers u mentioned come from. I should mention that if u measure the lift with a caliper you measure 9.5 to 9.6 lift. This is because at 90 degrees from the lobe center you are 0.2 or 0.25 mm up the ramp . So the base diameter is 0.4 or 0.5 mm smaller then the number on the caliper.

@@nord.tuning interesting, I have both pairs and measured them each, and with a caliper the lobes on the 01 cam are 1mm less in height than the ones of the 51 cams with different fatter/wider lobe shape and angle of lobes also different, like how you describe your squadra cams. I cannot comment on your 51 cams you have of course; my 51 cams are very different than your ones it seems and match the stats given on alfabb. However, like I mentioned there is a full comparison in detail on alfabb. I also contacted AFRA to ask about the 51 cams before the detailed analysis on alfabb was published and they said to me they are not road cams but semi race cams and should be fitted only to prepared heads intended for racing. Indeed the table i have (not in english) comparing all the production Alfa cams listing "....kleptiming graden (io/ld/uo/ud)...graden open bij klepepeling in mm inlaat utlaat...gr overlap..graden blj 0.050 ...lift mm" lists the 105480320051 motor onbekond .....graden inlaat 284 /050.....graden blj 0.050 inch lift 252 ...lift in mm 11.04..........It was never fitted to a production Alfa Romeo Alfetta according to Alfa Romeo books/parts manuals. The guy on Alfabb I recall remembers seeing them installed on the club race cars in period in 1970.

@@cbca6567 Okay, it seems like, for the 105480320051 cams there can be two different lobe profiles . You have to be Italian to think this up :-) Heated discussion over here : www.alfabb.com/threads/cam-shaft-part-numbers.1207/ My cams have also 1B stamped after the part number this did not seem important to my at the time but it probably is.

@@nord.tuning yes i read all the alfabb threads and there are a handful discussing the 51 cam which was originally a mystery cam because while it is clearly an alfa romeo stamped cam, it was never fitted to any alfa romeo production cars from new from my research. It was profiled by alfar7 there who measured the cams and who is well resepcted as an alfa cam maker that rightly says the duration on the all the production alfa cams and the alfa race cams and C&B cams also was too much at 0.050 and too little at higher lift, because of old fashioned cam design. He however said the 51 cam he had, with 11mm lift, was the nicest cam, road or race made by Alfa or C&B he had seen. My cams do not have 1B stamped on them but a large "C" on each. My 10548 cams have stamped on them other letters, smaller in appearance, "Z" for the intake and "C" for the exhaust. How to get in touch with you? I have some questions for you?

​@@cbca6567 So it been a while,I created a new Email account and it got blocked by google.... It is nordtuning8 this is a Gmail addres. Greetings.

Si tratta del motore Busso

Oke that is a serious problem. I mainly use the open box like air filters combined with trumpets they flow very well. The only issue I have with these is that the rubber shrinks if it comes in contact with petrol / gasoline. So I made metal inserts to avoid this. Annoying that the rubber is not fuel resistant on these top brand air filters. I have no idea how the current quality of the K&N filters is.

Bought the throttle body;s from chargertech later found out that K.M.S. is the manufacturer, probably manufactured in china but the quality is good. www.chargertech.nl/alles-voor-het-inlaatsysteem/throttle-bodies/twinbody-double-straight.html kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/throttle-bodies/throttlebody-twin For now I use the motronic EV1 injectors the atomisation is not very good so will have to select some new injectors. www.scribd.com/doc/252702995/Bosch-Injector-Data-sheet

Know what you mean i'll try to keep the airspeed as high as possible while improving the flow.

Thanks.

Thanks.

Always wondered why the rear washers where made from aluminium now I know.😃 The throttle body's are directly mounted on the alu replacements for the rubber carb mounts so they are grounded. Took this option assuming that the throttle body's don't need to be isolated from the engine vibrations like carbs do. Thanks for the tip👍.

@@nord.tuning What type of throttle bodies did you use? Where did you source them? How have you decided about the injector type?

@@fulcrum811 Bought them from chargertech later found out that K.M.S. is the manufacturer, probably manufactured in china but the quality is good. www.chargertech.nl/alles-voor-het-inlaatsysteem/throttle-bodies/twinbody-double-straight.html kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/throttle-bodies/throttlebody-twin For now I use the motronic EV1 injectors the atomisation is not very good so will have to select some new injectors. www.scribd.com/doc/252702995/Bosch-Injector-Data-sheet

I expect no power gain from all this extra work. Only the the knowledge that you build the best engine you could and less risk of engine failure when you increase the maximum revs and power output.

Thank you for your reply..and about the filter, or no filter, do you have any information?

@@paulwootton5378 I'm a great fan of K&N filters on the flow bench there is almost no effect on the flow there even could be some improvement. If you buy a filter buy a known brand, Chinese imitations are a bad idea. The gauze you see on some trumpets definitely hurts the flow. I would not compromise the engine life for a 1HP gain.

Thank you again...good information and content. @@nord.tuning

Thanks !

For now I am using the stock 2L euro cams with 10mm lift. I will do cam chances in a later video.

As you already know.... the new cams with different profiles will make the MOST difference for sure... and if your improved airflow will ensure that is not the issue when the new cams get installed! good luck with the tuning, those are HUGE gains @@nord.tuning

@@IanB22 First step will be other cams and after that flowing the head.

can't wait to see @@nord.tuning

Thank you. I only use the megasquirt because it is easy to tune after you did a modification to the engine. And the collected data is great to analyze the modifications. No documentations on the megasquirt build, I'm no expert and it has been a steep learning curve🙂. After this engine has evolved to what I want it to be, I'm planning on going back to carbs and fine tune them with the data from the megasquirt.

@@nord.tuning how long are your trumpets? Mine are 60mm on a higher reving 1600…. I feel like they are to long…

depends on your cams and what you are hoping to achieve... do you want torque? or revs and power?@@fulcrum811

@@fulcrum811 The trumpets are 55mm . For the road I like a torqué engine that pulls strong coming out of a corner. So in my opinion I would use the longest trumpets possible to get away with using a little longer duration cams and losing some power above 5500 RPM. ps. the inlet tracts of a alfa 75 TS are also very long.

@@IanB22 True !

Thanks.👍

Hi, I did this video when I was waiting on parts for my engine rebuild, unfortunately it will take a while before I can do a follow up. Probably next summer :( Engine specs: CB48 inlet CB47 exhaust. ported. alfaholic (big) valves ( the exhaust valve is actually smaller and flows the same as a modified stock valve) motronic pistons 10.8 : 1

Sorry the cams are two C&B ST1 these have the same specs as the CB48 cams.

Hello, Thank you for your kind words. I use as guidance the formulas in the book: four-stroke performance tuning by Graham Bell. And the dimensions mentioned in the book: how to power tune alfa romeo twin-cam engines by Jim Kartalamakis. Nevertheless I would like to have a look at your calculations/excel sheet. Greetings Nord Tuning.

Yes this would have been better. I had some issues with the close loop system, and at the dyno I found out that my O2 sensor readings were off. So far from perfect, but I run a Alpha N injection system ( RPM / TPS based fuel calculations ) so the amount of fuel injected stays the same. Now when you make the engine more efficient it pulls in more air, the AFR will go leaner because the delivered amount of fuel is the same. When the AFR leans out and the power goes up you can be sure you made some progress. On this basis I made my conclusions.

The most classic Alfa specialists offer them: www.myalfagroup.com/en/tuning/105-115/motor.html www.alfa-romeo-onderdelen.nl/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=71&category_id=579&page=shop.browse&limit=20&limitstart=20&lang=nl www.classicalfaparts.nl/categorien.aspx?CatID=46&SubID=64

Yes I did this mod in the past but never tested the influence on the flow of these modifications. The stock play isn't 1 mm but I get your point.

@@nord.tuning compliments, you have done good research on the oil pressure problem with this engine. stopping the excess valve oil from the pump inlet is an excellent solution. How much oil pressure did you get at max operating range and at idle with this solution?

At idle around 1.1 bar and after 4500 RPM it maxes out at 4.6 bar the coolant temp was 83 C. I dont have a sensor for the oil temp jet so......

Well in my opininon , it would be safer to have minimum 1,5 bar at idle with 90° oil engine temperature and minimum 5,0 - 5,5 bar at 4.500 g/1'. But I see, you must use the original equipment; there was in the sexties the "race option" with a taller oil pump and a cast spacer for the oil cup, only for GTA models.

These are stock wheels for a Peugeot 3008 17"x 7.5j et29 8.65kg. I sought the biggest steel rims with 4x108 I could find on the Oponeo.nl website and modified the car to fit these wheels. So they won't fit a stock giulia, maybe they fit a wide body GTA. In hindsight I don't think these are the best track day wheels because they are to big and have to much inertia. A very nice wheel is the stock Citroen C5 wheel, these are made from pressed alu plate and look like steel wheels. 15"x6j et 18 4,8kg they fit a Giulia GT and maybe the spider not a stock Giulia sedan.

Impressive, never seen 17' on Giulias 😊 That Citroen 15's are exactly what i wanted to fit, ultra light wheel but i was worried about specs, et18 sounds a bit tight to fit on sedan

If the surfaces are good no additional compound should be necessary. Never the less I always use silicone grease ( molykote 111) on all the O rings I instal. If the surface is corroded or not so perfect I would use sealer to get a good seal.

Because the lip is only a step of you're looking at it backwards like he is in the video. When he shows his own version he's viewing it from the engine side. If you did that with "our" version you wouldn't see the lip and neither would the exhaust gases. We fit this exhaust system to the GTA-R builds so it flows well enough for 240 bhp. The loss of low end torque he ended up with is why we used shorter secondary pipes by the way. Jim from Alfaholics

Great idea to use a sphere, but then you definitely have to block the channel between the valve and the suction side. The OEM part is no longer available, I have tested a (cheap) imitation pump and it performed worse then a used stock pump. I assume the pumps in the 800 euro price range will be good. I used the best short gear (used ) oil pump I had and the oil pressure is very high.

Hello. Great video. Can you feature how you setup the Hall effect cam sensor to read the cam?

@@wbanderson Hello I missed your question sorry. On my track day car I used the hole for the sump ventilation, widened it and made a flange for the sensor. At first I used a hose clamp on the cam for the trigger and later welded a piece of metal on the camshaft bush. And bought a GTA oil cap for sump ventilation. On my roadcar I modified a distributor to give the cam signal.

Bedankt👍

I did not know either until i tested these pumps and decided to rectify the "faults"I shaw. I used the short gear pump, and the engine is now in a street car. Although the stock oil pumps are fine and I had never any trouble with them I will do this mods on every next engine build.

@@nord.tuning thanks for the explanation. I will probably do the same at my next rebuild. Thanks. Great information

Thanks🙂

The "big"pump did 17l/min and the best normal pump did 16 l/min i will give u the rpm of the drill later could not find it right now. i used light hydraulic oil Mobil Univis HVI 13.

I did some more testing: A good old stock pump does at 850 RPM 15.5 L @ 1 bar and 13.5 @ 3 bar At 1540 RPM 21.5L @ 2 bar and 20L @ 4 bar. A new imitation pump did at 850 RPM 14.5L @ 1 bar and 11.5L at 3 bar. At 1540 RPM 20.2 L @ 2 bar and 18 L @ 4 bar. This is the pump RPM engine RPM is double that of course.