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thats what the start g-code looks like: ;(**** start.gcode for MP Mini Delta V2****) G21 G90 M82 M107 M104 S170 G28 X0 Y0 G28 Z0 G29 Z0.4 G1 Z15 F300 M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 G1 F2000 is this good? i have no idea with it does honestly except that g29 is bed leveling.

The MPMD V1 and MPMD V2 are two different printers with completely different mainboards/firmware. Monoprice outsources production to China. The V1 was manufactured by Malyan while the V2 is manufactured by WEEDO. This video only pertains to the V1. You should use the "MP Mini Delta" if you own a V1 printer or the "MP Mini Delta V2" if you own a V2 printer. If you own a V2, then you should ignore all of the advice in this video. You can tell which MPMD you own by looking at the LCD screen: raw.githubusercontent.com/PurpleHullPeas/MPMD-AutoBedLevel-Cal/master/images/V1_vs_V2.png

There are instructions on the Wiki for how to do this with USB, but in my opinion, that defeats the purpose of the video. The built-in WiFi is incredibly unreliable for printing. However, it is okay-ish as a last resort for calibrating the printer. If your USB works, then you do not need the WiFi for calibration. Here are my recommendations for you, and several links to go with it. 1. Are you 100% sure the SD card slot is bad? The stock SD card is pretty bad and prone to complete failure. Furthermore, the MPMD is VERY picky about what SD cards will work at all. Most people have luck with super old/small cards. The 8 GB card on the wiki works for me. 2. If USB still works, setup Octopi and be happy. It is way better than using the SD card, anyways. 3. If you need to reflash the firmware for some reason, you can use an ST Link instead of the SD card. I have not done this, but I copy-pasted the Facebook post from someone who did into a Google doc. MPMD V1 Built-In Wifi Wiki Page: mpminidelta.com/wifi/start MPMD V1 SD Card Recommendations: mpminidelta.com/parts/microsd_card Octopi Instructions are in the full calibration guide. There are a few MPMD-specific quirks that should be addressed after the regular Octopi setup. www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/bzm1s2/updated_mpmd_calibration_guide_and_faq/ Firmware Flashing Information: drive.google.com/file/d/1qK-VuOvtXk0OAKperCJYZGfuytqHtzNo/view?usp=sharing

It depends. For the pad I used in this video, absolutely. Durable and easy to clean. For a pad I previously bought (Arctic Thermal Pad), maybe not. The Arctic Thermal Pad performs well when left alone, but seems to tear easily and is harder to clean if you get any crud on it. Unfortunately, the pad I bought is no longer available, so you will have to rely on individual product reviews. At the end of the day, as long as the glass bed doesn't wobble around or slip off, you should be okay.

It's probably good enough as long as the glass isn't wobbly.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Works perfect even with a melted stock bed clip

Yes, the method in the video works. Yes, you can improve adhesion by adding an even layer of blue painter's tape on top of the glass. No overlaps, minimal gaps, and covering the entire surface. As explained in the Calibration Roadmap, I do not have a blanket recommendation for using tape to attach glass to the bed. I have seen it absolutely not work for some people and I have seen others claim that it works well. If it works for you, then great.

@@magneticfishingmadness github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags

Yes. Buy borosilicate glass instead of a craft mirror if you're worried about it breaking or if you plan on printing PETG. Someone in the Facebook Group has used this setup for almost two years with borosilicate glass.

It could get complicated. Go to the full calibration guide linked in the video description. It will take a combination of both hardware and software fixes. If you are still having trouble after going through the guide, make a post in the larger Facebook Group or Reddit (also linked) and I will gather more information.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Thanks I may leave it as stuff seems to come out ok

So, this port of Marlin is very new and I have literally just got around to using it. I updated the video description in this video with a link to a new text-based tutorial that I literally finished writing sometime this past Sunday. The test prints in that tutorial are pretty much the only things that I have done with it. I also want to try the linear advance feature, but that is something I want to do after upgrading part cooling. Was there anything specific you wanted to know about it? Just a fair warning, it is easy for me answer questions over a smartphone, but free time at home with the printer is shorter nowdays. It could be a while before the next video.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Just a video on the upgrade and setup process but I will read the tutorial thanks very much for your help. Does the cura profile work with this firmware as it does with marlin4mpmd.

Ok I think I will wait for a video if you could do one. Thanks for your help.

@@Nebula2009UK The Cura profiles should work the same. You will probably have to change the Start Gcode in the same way that you changed it for Marlin4MPMD. Z-offset is different, but I think it is all covered pretty well on MPMD Marlin's website.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Thanks again could you write a tutorial for an absolute beginner on how to compile and install and setup the firmware. I did manage to get marlin4mpmd working but how does the installation and setup differ from this. I appreciate your time and effort in trying to help me.

It is possible that one of the wires got loose or damaged. If just one or two wires come out, it will still sort of move, but have problems. If you're confident that it moves smoothly in the original position, the newer MPMD Marlin 1.X.X has multiple builds for different motor polarity, or you could compile a build of Marlin yourself to reverse only the extruder. There is a link in the description.

After thinking about it more, I believe that the new stepper motors have a different resistance than the old ones. If used on an older mainboard, this could result in less torque. Sorry that I don't have a good solution, I am just repeating what I saw Mr. Gigdigit post in a different thread months ago.

Someone on Reddit suggested that as well. If you try it, please report back and let us know how it works out for you!

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Yes you can use thermal paper! I edited the code so my hot-end is at 200c instead of 100c. I used normal receipts that I slightly overlapped and taped on the back and then used double-sided tape to adhere it to my build plate. Here are some images imgur.com/a/LiIy1nK

Try clicking "Download All Files" on Thingiverse. If that does not work, click the "6 Thing Files" to select the spreadsheet, directly.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 Thanks. I don't have excel so i had to use google sheets instead

That seems like a good choice to me. The only advantage that I see for foil tape over kapton, is that it sticks better. As long as the kapton sticks well, I think it should work.

Glad I could help! I highly recommend joining the Facebook Group (see video description).

OMG, are you THE PurpleHullPeas?!?!

@@absolutangel64 Yeah. I can be an asshole, but at least I can also be helpful, lol.

@@home-fried3dprinting617 You are so not an asshole! You've been one of the few people who've actually answered my Reddit questions. I can't thank you enough!

www.reddit.com/r/mpminidelta/comments/f2lz3n/_/fhxseum

Update: Following the Reddit thread, the humming had more to do with other settings changes (resolved with and M502) rather than hardware issues - possibly due to other things the user tried prior to finding this video.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into it. The same information is contained within the link in the video description. Edit: I have done better with more recent videos.

Glad you found something that works. The gcode only works on stock firmware (not Marlin4MPMD). Even then, I found that getting it to work right was finicky and required a bunch of power cycles.

I guess you could try it that way, but you would need both commands. I used Octoprint. If you want more help more quickly, go to either Reddit or Facebook, like I suggested in the video. I don't check this channel often.