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Hi. I have made 4 solid crankshafts, of which 2 were useable. And they did not include solid eccentrics. Bear in mind that without including the solid eccentrics you will need 4 centres to machine the mains and big ends. If you machine the eccentrics with the crankshaft you will need 10 TEN! centres at each end (assuming a reversing engine), which I would think would be incredibly difficult in such a small model. So yes, I think that split eccentrics is more sensible. But absolutely make a solid crankshaft rather than a built up type. John.

@@johnv341 Thanks for the reply John..I will probably just try the IP pair

@@modelengineeringadventures I will be very interested in the outcome.

You are welcome Bruce. I am happy to have helped a little.

sorry, I don't remember what setup I was using back then. So many changes and upgrades to that lathe over the years. All of the motors including the main spindle motor and steppers , and the electronics have been ugraded.

The Boxford software which came with the 125TCL is ancient so I would encourage you to convert to Mach 3. I generate my G codes on V Carve Pro, which is really designed for CNC woodworking, but with appropriate feeds and speeds works very well with metals. The valve body is spherical BtW. Another G Code generator which I often use is "Ezilathe", which was written by Stuart Tankard, and is available for no charge. But you do need Mach 3 first.

Hi Richard, each cable was about as thick as my little finger. 3 cables to supply the house site. Quite heavy, 3 pieces 1m each weigh about 2kg. Yes, the ingots should be fun, and who knows, might even end up in future models.

I suggest that you do a Google search on "Jerry Howell". Plans are available at reasonable cost

Sorry. Never detailed the build in a blog. And now forgotten the details. You could query stuart engine builder.

and I am not very good at making videos. I guess that not many of us are perfect.

My video, and I like it. Turn the sound off if it bothers you.

With only a single fire tube-flue this is a relatively inefficient boiler, particularly at this scale. I tried several solid fuels including coal but could not get enough heat to make the engine function. It works well on propane from a Sievert burner as you have probably seen.

It is a model, and cannot be fired. LOL🙂

Hi John, castings were purchased from EJ Winter, Sydney. Ben deGabriel is very helpful.

Thanks John. Back then it cost about $AUD2k for the conversion, would be less now. I had expert help with the wiring and Mach3 setup. And yes, it has enabled me to tackle some complex turning jobs which would have been very difficult or impossible otherwise. That cost does not include the lathe, computer or software. I sometimes wish that I had put my conversion efforts onto a bigger, better quality lathe.

G’day John good to hear from you yes your right about the cost, it would be terrific to have. Do know anyone other than Winters Bolton that you can get castings and drawings, just somebody else I’m not happy with their castings they are very hard and Chilled and these are big parts. What do you do on yours thanks mate kind regards John

@@johnkinnane547 I have been happy with my castings from EJ Winter, but I believe that they might have had some changes in suppliers in recent years. You could use bar stock, or fabricate parts, or get cast parts from UK suppliers, but UK postage is quite expensive. I have used bar stock for my last few models because commercially cast parts were not available. Also, you have probably seen that I have been making my own castings, but that is a whole other technology to get to grips with. I must say that I have always found Ben deGabriel good to deal with.

Hi John, I made that engine over 10 years ago, and unfortunately I don't remember how I managed to machine the bore. I dont have any photos to help. It is likely that I used a boring head in the milling machine, which is how I did it in later engines. The flywheel casting does have a hard skin, and carbide insert tooling is best.

I would not contemplate doing such a thing to this iconic engine.

@@johnv341 no like duplicate the triple expansion system to an v8 engine

Hi John, sorry for the late reply. I don't often check my YT posts. The Bolton 7 was the first model which I built from castings and that was a decade ago. So I have forgotten most of it. I do remember having to break through the outer layer of the flywheel with a good insert cutter. And there was very little machining allowance on some of the castings. I seem to remember using JB Weld to pack out some hidden bits. There is usually a workaround, and that is half of the fun. Or is it frustration? These days I tend to use bar stock. You get a second chance if you stuff up the first effort! Good luck! ps. you can buy cast iron bar stock if desired but often brass, bronze or steel is suitable. John V

Yep. I have lost count of the number of times I have discovered that painful fact.

There is a single slot disk on the spindle with a detector to accurately measure RPM and starting rotational position. The actual RPM rarely exactly corresponds to what is programmed into MAch3, and there is always an acceleration and deceleration period, so the encoder on the spindle is essential. Every CNC lathe has one or should have.

@@johnv341 do you use a smoothstepper or just a bob on its own? I’ve got the disk with a slot in. The slot in my disk is around 7mm wide is that wide enough or would you say it needs to be wider? Thanks

@@minimillaidan369 7mm should be plenty. smoothstepper now, but cant remember setup when that video was made.

@@johnv341 great! Out of interest what some stepper and bob are you using! Thanks for response 👍🏻

Thankyou!

Hi Michael. Happy to help if I can.

Thank you! My understanding is that there was no provision for lubrication of the cylinders of steam engines of this era, and my model, except for that provided by steam and water, which is better than nothing.

@@johnv341 Thanks! I have recently become fascinated with Trevithicks engines after his article in the April Heritage Railway and am looking for more info on them.

Thankyou! Completely hooked me.

@@johnv341 I've started building it. Few months time and i'll be done. Also have an 8 inch copper pipe that i'll use for a coal fired boiler

@@johnv341 My engine is now built and I'm just finishing the pump. Next to built an 8" coal fired boiler.

When did your opinion become relevant?

@@gholloway9935 the day I gave it to your mum up her backside 👍

Don't know, the gauge was donated by a friend.

Fancy seeing AE here! Smith's are still in business, they mostly make gauges for racing cars these days.

Well, congratulations and thanks to David. It is a fascinating engine.

@@johnv341 nothing like a non-dead-centering!

Afraid not. Too many hours to build them. But thanks.

@@johnv341 No worries, keep up the good work!

Glad you like them!

@@johnv341 cheers

@@johnv341 thank you

Thankyou. I would estimate around 2000 hours work. Now what would that be worth I wonder?

@@johnv341 I understand the approach. I have been looking for a triple for a long time and have now chosen this unusual way via RUclips. Maybe you can name a reasonable price for your work.

@@saschas.6906 Not for sale. Sorry. Grandchildren will get this one.

I confess that I did buy the square nuts. From China. and thanks for the nice feedback.