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No worries 👍. Well done for giving it a go yourself

Stripped out, sold all the parts, scrapped the shell and bought a lexus IS200 to play with.

So it is yes or no? Lol thanks

You still have to cut the wire and connect the Toyota ecu side to analogue out of det 3+, but you don't have to connect the 1 bar map sensor wire to analogue in #1 on the det 3+ if you're using the in built 4 bar when going turbo.

Thank you

Yes, thats what I did. Use the in built 4 bar map sensor of the det 3 + to run the engine. The stock 4efe map sensor is left in place and does nothing. No need to buy the 4efte map sensor anymore! 😁

@@dan91sgarage awesome, thank you

Is the car turbo charged or n/a? have you changed to larger injectors?

If you're fitting 1998 euro spec clocks into a 1998 euro spec car it should be plug and play. Easiest way to check is to look at the back of both sets and trace where the wires go from the sockets at the top to the clocks / bulbs. If they match then yes, plug and play.

Don't really have any info specifically about the ep95, but the rear diff will need an oil change in addition to the usual Starlet maintenance. Pretty rare so try not to break anything doing launches!

No worries, I have a few videos on my channel about det 3 installs and tuning on the Starlet as well.

If it is left to leak for long enough it can get into the spare wheel well, then when you brake it sloshes out under the rear seat into the car as well. On mine the felt material under the spare wheel was soaked and smelt mouldy.

9 o'clock jiggle pin position is how it's specified in the repair manual for 4efe engines. Perhaps it was more affective at bleeding the bubbles through a closed thermostat on this particular engine.

I see Thank you.I installed mine today at 9 o’clock position all has gone well no leaks and a happy little Starlet goes on 👍

Already sold mate.

Yes, I used silicone gasket maker as the card gaskets were never available. Toyota never thought the cover baffle would be serviced. Full rebuild video: ruclips.net/video/EyeIrtlgG-E/видео.html

@@dan91sgarage thank you. I'll check it out... Out of curiosity, what brand engine oil do you think is the best?

@@GrizzlyGaz To be honest as long as it is a "big brand" name in the correct specification and grade they're all good enough for older engines, semi or full synthetic. For the Starlet I used shell helix 10w40 semi synthetic. The 4efe is specified with a API SG or SH multi grade oil any where from 5w30 to 20w50. Unless extremely cold temps are seen I always use 10w30 or 10w40 in 4efe. More modern engines I only use fully synthetic, usually Millers (UK), Castrol, Shell in the correct spec and grade. Have used Motul or Amsoil in "track cars" but they're not cheap.

@@dan91sgarage yeah millers oils has a factory near me in brighouse so I might try some of their oils. Thank you.

Good luck brother 👍

@@dan91sgarage just finished caulking the two seam above the boot. i cleaned and degreased the area, even lifted up the rubber around the boot opening, a lot of mud was collected under there. There were multiple cracks in the seam still a lot of paint though to my surprise. I taped the area around the seam to make it neat looking (sorry can't add pics to comments) scraped the excess with a plastic tool and after around half an hour later i used a wet finger to smoothen the area and then removed the tape, after that i used a blade to carefully tidy up around the sealer

Tiny update, i got around with priming and painting the repair it's invisible from a distance. For painting and priming i used these little paint containers with a brush inside. One primer, one clear and one color it was a hasstle to actually find the correct color number (stealth grey) but its a perfect match so i'm happy

@user-nr3qc1dh5l Which Starlet, EP82 or EP91? 4efe or 4efte engine?

@adamfoster2579 The map switch wiring is: wire connected from pin 2 of det3 to a toggle switch, wire from other side of toggle switch to ground (earth). The switch changes between 2 independant table sets (fuel, 2 x pwm and ignition tables). One set of tables will have standard timing and the other will have advanced timing. Triggering the meth to only work when the advanced timing map set has been chosen can be done a few ways. Is the car n/a or forced induction? Which water meth are you using snow, AEM, devils own?

@@dan91sgarage thank you, supercharged corolla t sport compressor running a aem wmi kit. I have the water meth on a kill switch not linked to the det. The progressive controller is linked to the injector duty signal. What im planning on, is when I run out of wmi liquid on a drive I can switch tables to standard timing with a little more fuel added and wmi off. So when the pin sees an Earth connection it switches the map? How do I go about programming the tables to switch on the det3? Thank you so much for getting back to me👍

@@adamfoster2579 Yes, when the wire from pin 2 sees earth it switches maps. At the bottom of the det 3 computer programme it says current map set=0 and current map set=1 when switched. When you save the project and make maps save to det 3 it only saves the current map set you are working on so be aware of that. As far as programming goes there isn't really any setup menu's to configure to allow map switching, it's always there waiting for the signal on pin 2. Tuning the fuel required for meth/no meth maps is relatively easy with a wideband and datalogging in the det3 (shown in video). The ignition is the dangerous part and in my opinion should only be mapped on the safe environment of a dyno to know when you are reaching knock limit on meth. If it were my car I would probably trigger the meth from the manifold pressure as this is how most forced induction setups are triggered. Some water meth controllers also have a warning output when they run out of liquid, it may be possible to use this signal to power a relay that has the pin2 - earth connection on the switched side to automatically switch maps for safety. Might not be possible this way, but it was fun to think about! 👍. Toggle switch is way easier though. No worries, don't forget to like and subscribe!

@@dan91sgaragethank you, Ill go with the toggle switch option aha. I am using a aem AFR gauge to map fuel so that’s all good. Been messing around with the det3 for over a year now and been running the WMI for 4 or so months. It’s going well. When the fluid gets low on the level sensor I have it triggering a 12v piezo sounder in the dash so I know the fluids low then not thrashing it after that. So when I get this maps switch installed when I run out of fluid I’ll be able to kill the WMI with my killswitch then switch to the normal ignition tables and a mapped fuel table putting in more fuel to allow for what the meth was doing. I’m running 66% water and 33% meth. It’s mainly for cooling. I’m using 220cc injectors I think I can’t remember now, 1 before supercharger and 1 after. There is no intercooler on my setup and wmi was the easier option that putting a intercooler in and changing all pipework. The cars a Toyota Corolla compressor. Ill get this switch done in the next week or few days. Ill let you know if I succeed. I should do😄

I have a lexus is200 now. New project about to start.

That's exciting, all the best with the build 💪 ​@@dan91sgarage

It's very difficult to say for sure, sometimes drips can be condensation forming on the metal above the light and not an actual leak! I always check the boot vents behind the bumper first, this is done by removing the round plastic plug under the car on the boot floor (shown at the begining of the video). If rancid water poors out then the vent is letting it in. I also had a panel seam leaking in the same area above the light so thats my second guess.

No worries at all, thanks for the comment.

The EP91 Glanza and EP82 Starlet gt turbo use the same IACV with a 2 wire connector. The EP91 Starlet with 4efe engine has a IACV with a 3 wire connector.

No problem, thanks for the comment.

There should be no loss from the coolant system at all. If the carpet is wet then you should see the drip at the heater matrix pipe join. Also the coolant header tank can crack underneath, leaking into the engine bay and the header tank cap has o-rings to seal and these can also wear or get damaged.

@@dan91sgarage I've just changed the degas hose and expansion tank, the o ring near foot well is leaking, but it doesn't seem enough leak to be why the floor is so wet

I would estimate somewhere between 130-150 crank hp with this setup. Never got the chance to dyno it.

All I can say is to make sure that you have plugged the speedometer cable back in properley. Fully seated until the retaining clip snaps onto the groove.

@@dan91sgarage yeah it heard it click in n got nervous when it was back tougher it wasnt working but its fine and i was over reacting gotta take it out again to put 2 t5 bulbs in for the left n right side now

The iacv has already been sold.

😁 Thanks for the comment and sub. Always start with the vents behind the bumper, then check out the other stuff.

next dry day i get where im at i will be sure to do that. thanks brother​@dan91sgarage

As far as i know when you choose a trigger pattern type of 60-2 it understands the number of signals from the tooth pattern on the wheel and doesn't use the input in the 720 box below which is why it is greyed out in the software and can't be changed. Choosing 60-2 in the first box tells it that there will be a pulse every 6 deg and a "gap" of 12 deg at "tdc". It knows 1 revolution is the missing teeth gap. The 720 signal box info is more for ignition module setups that could be any number of cylinders or it can't understand rpm. Only able to change this box info when you select that ignition type at the top pull down.

@@dan91sgarage Ok, got it. So, the number of signals is the number of ignition signals right?, not the number of signals the sensor puts out (0v, 5v)? I am guessing in your case is 4 because you have it hooked up to the crankshaft sensor?. I have a jimny cabrio 2000, with OBD1, this is why I need to use the ECU piggy back, and also it does not have a CKP sensor.

@@drzakk Mine is connected to the spark signal from the ecu to the ignition module in the distributor. Do you have the G13bb engine or M13A?

@@dan91sgarage Hello, thank you for the answer. I have the G13bb, and I can't get the DET3 to intercept the ignition signal. When I put the camshaft sensor signal through the DET3 ( I have it from sensor signal to ign. in and from DET3 ign. out to ECU) the car does not start. When I hook it back to the factory ECU but splice the cable and hook it to the ign. in, it does start, and I do get the RPM readings, and in scope mode I can see the signals. Of course I still cant modify the signal because it is just spliced to the ign. in, it was just a test to see if it even read the input and it does, but once I put the signal through the DET3 the car does not start, not even in scope mode.

@@drzakk What ignition settings are you using in the det 3 menu?

Part numbers are in the description, easy to find on eBay. Not too difficult to pull them apart. There is a clamp to undo in the engine bay to allow easier movement of pipes as shown in video.

The easiest way to figure it out is to compare the plastic circuit board on the back of the original clocks and new clocks. Trace down from the contact at the top to the bulb/gauge its connected to and compare. If the contacts go to different bulbs / gauges on the clocks then you need to write down the wire contacts purpose on paper for both sets and then move the necessary wires to the correct location. Not difficult, just takes time.