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Yes only dealer sells them separately. And to be honest factory alternators are the best to keep anyway. I always have a backup brush at home for all my Honda

Just simple twos such as screwdrivers sockets, and a wire cutter to cut the tie

If I remember right, I used a flexible elbow. I used a short socket, flex elbow then an extension. I don’t think you can go straight in for that bolt

Sorry I didn’t know it was supposed to be exciting. Please provide feedback what I should do for future videos

I agree but due to the time constraint me and my customer had, I didn’t want to take all that out and risk breaking something along the way. I kept it at the minimum. And I was glad the compressor bolts didn’t break on me

I don’t think this is a bcm, but if the part looks exactly the same I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Don’t hold me to it though

I didn’t get any codes unfortunately. One morning I tried to start the car and it didn’t happen. Recently I came across a late model tundra and it gave a code for fuel pump failure. I guess these older models don’t have that feature.

I didn’t get any codes unfortunately. One morning I tried to start the car and it didn’t happen. Recently I came across a late model tundra and it gave a code for fuel pump failure. I guess these older models don’t have that feature. Also certain vehicles i came across has fuel pressure readings when running a live scan too

If I remember right, there is a crossbeam-like that I was able to use under there.

@@jann7262 thanks

Hi James, once I changed the fuel pump, it didn’t pump at all. I had to change the C/OPN relay(for this case the whole fuse box)for the fuel pump to work. After replacing, I had to turn the key on and off a few times to prime the fuel line. Good luck. If your car still doesn’t start, then it sounds like you might have a separate issue not starting.

@@jann7262 oh okay bro thanks for the reply yeah I'm having the same issue my car is cranking but not starting but I changed the fuel pump and I left the supply hose off and cranked it and saw gas come out of the fuel pump so I know I'm getting fuel to the front of the car but as soon as I'm done cranking, I'll go wait a minute or two and then I'll take the fuel line off of the fuel rail and it seems like all the pressure is gone already like within a minute. So I'm basically cranking it and it's getting fuel but it's not starting and then within a minute all that pressure is fuel is basically gone. I'm not sure if that's normal or not I always thought the fuel line stayed pressurized for a little while

Normally when you turn the key on, for 2-3 seconds the fuel pump will prime and build pressure on the fuel line. The pressure should hold steady no less than 5 minutes. If pressure drops within a 1-2 minutes, then there’s a leak within the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, or maybe a check valve. Fortunately the regulator (and maybe a check valve) is located in the fuel pump assembly. Also three rules you must have: fuel, air and spark in order for a car to start

I don’t think so. If I remember right, those have a different circuit in the diagram.

Glad I could help

Hi I hope it is. Personally I don’t know if it’s the same location, but good luck to you.

Hi thank you for the feedback. Please explain which stuff I didn’t have to remove so I would take note in the future. Sorry this is my side gig on the weekend so I was working on a fly

Thank you for the comment. I agree that I know nothing. I wouldn’t be on RUclips looking anything if I know something or everything. My video is to complement other videos that I couldn’t find to fix this car.

That could be one way you can probably change all the spark plugs back there without removing the intake manifold.

The car had around 100k miles on it and I was doing a major tuneup for this customer. The water pump was part of the tuneup. To avoid any problems of failure, such as a leak like you mentioned, these parts are normally replaced every 100k miles. I don’t wait until these things fail and plus it also creates a domino effect if left unchecked. Just to give you an idea of a major tuneup at every 100k, I normally replace the the water pump(if it’s easy access), thermostat, spark plugs, pcv valve, drive belt, transmission oil and filter (if accessible), gear oil, tensioner and idle pulley, alternator brush (if also accessible)

Hi Linda, I didn’t show the removal of spark plugs and coils because there are plenty of videos out there for that. I’m only showing my version of getting to that point. Sorry I didn’t want to make the video too long

That’s good if you didn’t have to take the dash out. It’s been 4-5 years ago when I replaced it, but I remember removing mines. Also since I didn’t have any videos to go by, I had to go on the fly and removed the dash just to have free space

Yes I did change the intake gasket. After 100k miles, rubber starts to become dry and brittle. Good thing you mentioned that because my brother told me to start doing video instructions step by step

Glad I could help. I had the same problem looking for the cause years ago and also took me months to find the issue. I had the service manual and the diagram pointed the c/opn relay to this fuse box.

Funny you mentioned that, I used all the fuses that came from the new box and kept the old as backup

I have no clue if that’ll work, but I rather keep the Brembo one piece system.

Keep the brembo 1 piece 4 piston. The power your type s makes need the bigger brake system, it's for your safety brother

Hi sorry I am still having trouble with the codes on my dash still. I don’t know if Mercedes is finicky about aftermarket parts. Will be trying to oem and see if it fixes the problem

Just to follow up with my previous comment. I changed out the cable with OEM and it fixes the issue. I guess aftermarket parts will not work on Mercedes. At least the brand (Holstein) did not work anyway

@@jann7262 Yup, I did the same and the light went away. Forgot to come back this vid when I solved it but yeah, glad you got it fixed.

I’m glad I could help. Unfortunately I’m sure they engineered this way so you will bring it to the shop rather than DIY. I commonly see this in german cars. Ford and Dodge are gearing towards that way now

Hi, thank you for the comments. As far as the valve cover gasket, everything should be wide open for you to get to. There should be only a couple of bolts that hold valve cover and you should be able to take it out.

@@jann7262 hey there, just following up - wondering what size sockets (to remove the bolts) are needed for the whole job?

@@istoleyourpc6721I don’t remember all the socket size for this for this job, but I do remember 10mm socket was used for most of it and the 14mm magnetic spark plug socket. If you have the most basic metric socket kit , you should be able to do the job. Also I do use the 10mm socket that has a magnet built-in to remove two bolts that holds the metal vacuum rail I mentioned.

More power to you if you could rig the relay outside the box, but is it worth rigging with that many miles?

It's more like an experiment now than necessity.

Have you actually went in combat at this issue yet? Did this help get your car started because I put new fuel pump new everything in and it seems like the fuel pump is putting out fuel but it's just either not pressurized enough or it's not allowing it to get into the fuel injectors

@@jamesbroomfield7799 I did combat this issue and the problems kept coming after that. What it sounds like is that the pressure line coming from the pump could be clogged, or there could be a connection issue in the pump itself that prevents it from getting enough pressure to your injectors. The issue I had was something more than just the pump. It was also a transponder issue. If the transponder isn't reading your key (if you have a key with a G chip) it could be something in the ignition switch that isn't reading the key properly. The chip, if not inserted or read, could cause the pump to not operate, in turn, not starting. If the engine is turning over, that's not the same as the pump turning on. I recommend checking the chips in your keys first before going further, which could cause more damage in the long run.

@@silverfoxninja thanks for replying buddy, yeah my issue I'm having is I'm getting fuel and the fuel pump is pumping fuel but it won't start, it just keeps cranking. And if I crank it for a while and stop I'll go remove the line that goes to the fuel rail up in the engine and it seems like there's no fuel there, but that's only if I wait a minute or two it seems like the fuel pressure is leaving super fast. If I crank the engine and immediately go take off that fuel line then there's fuel there. So yeah I was wondering the same thing I'm wondering if I might have a restriction in the fuel line going from the pump to the fuel rail. I know it's getting fuel to the front but I don't know how pressurized it is it doesn't seem like it had too much pressure to it. I'm going to buy a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and then check the pressure on it

Pcv valve is something many people ignore as part of preventive maintenance. It sometimes get clogged without knowing. I didn’t get any symptoms from the car, but can be a problem later. Google it and you’ll understand how it works

Unfortunately I don’t have a video for thermostat removal. I live in the south so I never had any issues from rust. I guess I’m always lucky.

Hi I’m not sure about the 2008. The reason I stated the year range is because this fuse box matches those years. Unfortunately I don’t know if the 2008 has the same design

T..t…t…thank you for the sarcastic response senior

Yes you have to remove the belt. The pulley I mentioned taking out in the video, you have to use that to release the tension to remove the belt then pulley come out after. Move the power steering reservoir to a side, then you’ll have more space to have access to it. You can access from the bottom too, but it’s more difficult

do you need to take out power steering pulley?

@@inee107no you don’t have to remove the power steering pulley

No code unfortunately…thankfully the car was at home when I tried starting that morning, but no luck. It took me months to find out what the problem was and also wait for a car in the junkyard

Yup. Mine didn't throw a code because it has to start first for the ECM to register a low fuel pressure errorl. The only way to know if this could be the problem is to put a meter on the pump while turning the ignition to On but not cranking. I got zero volts to the pump but the tank level sensor was fine (12v).

It’s a business move designing the relay in the fuse box. Making sure you would bring it to the shop so they could turn a profit…smh. Same goes for these new cars without a transmission dipstick. You’ll have to go under the vehicle to drain and fill only if you’re mechanically inclined

Glad I could help

Yes it’s a fuel pump relay

When you crank your ignition does the fuel pump put out spit out fuel