Видео

message me on Facebook or email bmonsterlaboratory@gmail.com Facebook is probably better, but I can do email as well. I look forward to it! 👍

Hey there! sure... here's what I used. MOVI voice recognition shield w/ arduino uno, another arduino uno, a mini servo motor, piezo buzzer, lapel mic for the MOVI board, a stand alone speaker (i'm using Oontz Angle 3 Pro) connected to MOVI using a 3.5mm cable, a slide lock I got from Lowes, red and green LEDs, jumper wires, small breadboard. 👍

They need an electronics division for their brushes 😂 I just used this one cause I had it. This board works great now...after lots of brushing of course

I used a small magnet with a reed switch. I have had it for a long time and I only have one. Thought it came in the Elegoo Mega kit but guess not. You can also get them on Amazon. type ASIN ‏ : ‎ B0CDWS1ZG6 in the search bar to find it.

Thanks! I am not familiar with SafePal or Binance. Never got into the crypto market. sorry~

hey there! in this video, I use a motion sensor as a trigger to play one random track - you can see it at 6:24 ruclips.net/video/GczPAaq8WsY/видео.html You can replace the motion sensor and change the code for a button or photoresistor to trigger a song. I don't believe the DIP switches have a random combination. Using Arduino to program something like this is the easiest way to do it. I hope that helps! 👍

Sorry, I do not. If it's a bad connection due to corrosion, you can lightly scratch the spring contacts and flat contact battery pads to get it to work. If the wires dethatched from the contacts, you'll have to solder them back on. That's a very easy thing to do, but only if you have a soldering iron. 👍

hey there! Ya, possibly. It would depend on the type of charger, the cost, how it stands out among other chargers...etc. I try to limit reviews these days, but I would do a review if something caught my eye and I thought viewers might find it interesting.

On Linux? It's much easier that way. 👍 I was looking for a way to do it using Arduino, one that was convenient and did a good job. AES encryption on the GIGA is pretty easy with a flash drive. Thanks for sharing!

Hey there! I changed the soundPin from 0 to A0 and updated Sound: and Scale: labels for debugging clarity. It compiles for me. Let me know if it works for you. // Pin definitions const int redPin = 5; const int greenPin = 6; const int bluePin = 9; const int soundPin = A0; // Analog pin for sound // Variables for storing raw sound and scaled value int sound; int scale; void setup() { // Start the serial port at 9600 bps Serial.begin(9600); // Set RGB pins to OUTPUT pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT); } void loop() { // Read and store the audio from the envelope pin sound = analogRead(soundPin); // Map sound values to a range from 0 to 3 scale = map(sound, 0, 300, 0, 3); // Print values over the serial port for debugging Serial.print("Sound: "); Serial.print(sound); Serial.print(" | Scale: "); Serial.println(scale); // Control RGB LEDs based on scaled value switch (scale) { case 0: // RGB = Blue digitalWrite(redPin, LOW); digitalWrite(greenPin, LOW); digitalWrite(bluePin, HIGH); break; case 1: // RGB = Green digitalWrite(redPin, LOW); digitalWrite(greenPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW); break; case 2: // RGB = Yellow digitalWrite(redPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(greenPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW); break; case 3: // RGB = Red digitalWrite(redPin, HIGH); digitalWrite(greenPin, LOW); digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW); break; default: // Turn off LEDs digitalWrite(redPin, LOW); digitalWrite(greenPin, LOW); digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW); break; } }

@BMonsterLaboratory hey thanks a lot man I'll try that out l8r this evening when I get home and let you know if it works

@@clarkescustomcreations You're welcome 👍

@BMonsterLaboratory no way dude 😆 small things matter so anyone else that stumbles into these comments capitals matter lol was literally because I put serial with a lower case instead of with an uppercase S 😆 sketch compiled for me after I changed them lol

@@clarkescustomcreations Good job! stuff like that can be frustrating, for sure.

Hi! Are you using the IC2 LCD module or the standard 1602 display? If you're using the standard display, have a 220ohm resistor on pin A and a 10k potentiometer on V0 pin, this code should work for your I2C clock and you can adjust backlight with the 10k pot. 👍 #include <LiquidCrystal.h> #include <Wire.h> // LCD module connections (RS, E, D4, D5, D6, D7) LiquidCrystal lcd(5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10); void setup() { lcd.begin(16, 2); // Initialize 16x2 LCD Wire.begin(); // Join I2C bus } void DS1307_display() { Wire.beginTransmission(0x68); // Start I2C protocol with DS1307 address Wire.write(0); // Set DS1307 register pointer to 0 if (Wire.endTransmission(false) != 0) { lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print("RTC Error!"); return; } Wire.requestFrom(0x68, 7); // Request 7 bytes from DS1307 if (Wire.available() < 7) { lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print("RTC Error!"); return; } byte second = Wire.read(); // Read seconds byte minute = Wire.read(); // Read minutes byte hour = Wire.read(); // Read hours Wire.read(); // Skip day byte date = Wire.read(); // Read date byte month = Wire.read(); // Read month byte year = Wire.read(); // Read year // Convert BCD to decimal second = (second >> 4) * 10 + (second & 0x0F); minute = (minute >> 4) * 10 + (minute & 0x0F); hour = (hour >> 4) * 10 + (hour & 0x0F); date = (date >> 4) * 10 + (date & 0x0F); month = (month >> 4) * 10 + (month & 0x0F); year = (year >> 4) * 10 + (year & 0x0F); // Create time and date strings char Time[11]; sprintf(Time, "%02d:%02d:%02d", hour, minute, second); char Calendar[13]; sprintf(Calendar, "%02d/%02d/20%02d", date, month, year); // Update LCD only if data changes static char prevTime[11] = ""; static char prevCalendar[13] = ""; if (strcmp(Time, prevTime) != 0) { lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print(Time); strcpy(prevTime, Time); } if (strcmp(Calendar, prevCalendar) != 0) { lcd.setCursor(0, 1); lcd.print(Calendar); strcpy(prevCalendar, Calendar); } } void loop() { DS1307_display(); delay(1000); // Update every second }

sorry to hear that. sometimes you have to wait a bit before giving another command. If it doesn't detect your voice or doesn't understand what your saying, it will not react. If it shuts off for no reason, it may be a malfunction. Maybe the seller has a return policy?

hey there! do you have a display with I2C connection? What board are you using?

Absolutely! how many tracks? random or just one after another?

@@BMonsterLaboratory I also need to start only one audio, when I turn it on. Without loops.

Thank you! 👍

You will need to set up your hardware and configure your Arduino using Bottango. You set up whether you're using a pca9685 or not, rotation, timing, pins you're connected to...etc. At the end, when you'll all done, you export the code into a file. You join the necessary files to the Arduino folder and it works great. Honestly, I haven't been using the pca9685 board since this video. My projects have been running great without it. You'll want to see what works best for you. I read most of the documentation for the software, the files that are in the bottango zip file. You'll also want to read how to get the bottango code to work and what header files need to be in the Arduino folder. This documentation is exported along with the code. The only way I learn is to jump in and test stuff. Nothing is perfect on the first try but after a little tinkering and adjusting, you'll get really smooth motions with Bottango.

Does the PCA only work at the end or can it be used for testing?

@@Sammyrobotics-bv1x you can use it in your project. It's not just for testing.

Does pca only work at the end when the code in put in because I have been stuck on trying to connect it to bottango

​@@Sammyrobotics-bv1x Are you talking about not being able to get the motors to do live on the hardware status screen?

Hey there! Thank you for the time to say hello. I wish you well in Sri Lanka. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from Ohio 👍😃😃

Maybe take a look at the YEP 20A HV SBEC hobbyking.com/en_us/yep-20a-hv-2-12s-sbec-w-selectable-voltage-output.html?srsltid=AfmBOopTK4U0PTWRLhwaJf2Umhg3uVD9vOON1yzLjkN3PkIJhk46rfO1 This would give you plenty of current capacity (20 A), supports a 2S LiPo input (6 V-8.4 V) with no problem, and offers multiple selectable output voltages (5 V, 5.5 V, 6 V, 7 V, or 9 V). Some things to keep in mind: Use a 1000 µF on the servo rail to smooth out current spikes. Reduce voltage drop by keeping wires short. Use the right gauge wires for your setup, for both sides - battery-to-BEC and BEC to the servos. I don't want to say you should buy anything specific, but this might help you in doing some research in finding the right one. 👍

Sorry to hear that! I'm not sure if there's a manufacture warranty- I haven't had any problems yet. Are your points of contact clean? Just a thought. Best of luck to you and Merry Christmas!

Hey there! Yes, you should be able to use Arduino cloud to operate any of these servos from their web interface - from anywhere. I would like to do a few more videos with this breakout board. Thank you for the excellent question! 👍

@@BMonsterLaboratory cool I would love to watch

Ya, I know. Sorry about that. I post it to Facebook and it can get confusing and even appear as if it's not there sometimes and that's why I started an email list. After every video, I send out an email with the code and any diagrams or images needed. You're welcome to join the list if you like. Just send a mssg to bmonsterlaboratory@gmail.com For this code you have to type #arduinoreed into the Facebook search at the top left. The code is in the comments. Some code is way to long to post in the description but sometimes I can get it to post here in the comments. Here are the 2 sketches I found on Facebook for this video. Hope this helps! #include <Adafruit_NeoPixel.h> // Include the NeoPixel library const int reedSwitchPin = 2; // Define the pin that the reed switch is connected to const int speakerPin = 3; // Define the pin that the speaker is connected to const int ledPin = 8; // Define the pin that the LED strip is connected to const int numLeds = 10; // Define the number of LEDs in the strip Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(numLeds, ledPin, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); // Create a NeoPixel object void setup() { pinMode(reedSwitchPin, INPUT_PULLUP); // Set the pin as an input with internal pull-up resistor enabled pinMode(speakerPin, OUTPUT); // Set the pin as an output strip.begin(); // Initialize the LED strip strip.show(); // Turn off all the LEDs in the strip Serial.begin(9600); // Start the serial communication at 9600 baud rate } void loop() { int reedSwitchState = digitalRead(reedSwitchPin); // Read the state of the reed switch if (reedSwitchState == LOW) { // If the switch is closed digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // Turn on the LED Serial.println("Door opened!"); // Print a message to the serial monitor tone(speakerPin, 262, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 262 Hz for 200 milliseconds (C note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 294, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 294 Hz for 200 milliseconds (D note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 330, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 330 Hz for 200 milliseconds (E note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 262, 500); // Play a tone with frequency of 262 Hz for 500 milliseconds (C note) delay(500); // Wait for 500 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 262, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 262 Hz for 200 milliseconds (C note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 294, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 294 Hz for 200 milliseconds (D note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 330, 200); // Play a tone with frequency of 330 Hz for 200 milliseconds (E note) delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds tone(speakerPin, 262, 500); // Play a tone with frequency of 262 Hz for 500 milliseconds (C note) delay(500); // Wait for 500 milliseconds noTone(speakerPin); // Stop playing the tone digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // Turn off the LED // Flash the LED strip a few times for (int i = 0; i < 5; i++) { for (int j = 0; j < numLeds; j++) { // Loop through all the LEDs in the strip strip.setPixelColor(j, 255, 0, 0); // Set the color of the LED to red strip.show(); // Update the LED strip delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds } strip.clear(); // Turn off all the LEDs in the strip delay(100); // Wait for 100 milliseconds } delay(5000); // Wait for 5 seconds before resetting the alarm Serial.println("Alarm reset."); // Print a message to the serial monitor strip.clear(); // Turn off all the LEDs in the strip strip.show(); // Update the LED strip } } ------Here's the second one I posted-------- const int reedSwitchPin = 2; // Define the pin that the reed switch is connected to const int buzzerPin = 3; // Define the pin that the buzzer is connected to const int ledPin = 8; // Define the pin that the LED is connected to void setup() { pinMode(reedSwitchPin, INPUT_PULLUP); // Set the pin as an input with internal pull-up resistor enabled pinMode(buzzerPin, OUTPUT); // Set the pin as an output pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // Set the pin as an output Serial.begin(9600); // Start the serial communication at 9600 baud rate } void loop() { int reedSwitchState = digitalRead(reedSwitchPin); // Read the state of the reed switch if (reedSwitchState == LOW) { // If the switch is closed digitalWrite(buzzerPin, HIGH); // Turn on the buzzer digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // Turn on the LED Serial.println("Door opened!"); // Print a message to the serial monitor delay(5000); // Wait for 5 seconds digitalWrite(buzzerPin, LOW); // Turn off the buzzer digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // Turn off the LED Serial.println("Alarm reset."); // Print a message to the serial monitor } }

hey there! Just send an email and I'll send my code and schematic to you - no problem! bmonsterlaboratory@gmail.com Aslo, I have an email list where I send the Arduino .ino file, diagrams, and other details about my most recent video. if you want to be added, just send me an email and make sure it says ("AddMe" to the email list).

@@BMonsterLaboratory Thank you so much! I will do this in the morning on my pc as I am currently in bed on my phonr

@@BMonsterLaboratory Email as been sent!

Hi! thank you. You can easily power the Arduino and servos from a single power source by splitting the 12V supply. Here are a couple of ways to do it: *Connect the 12V power source to a terminal block, and then split the output. One connection can go to the Arduino, and the other to the buck converter where voltage can be reduced for the servos. *Alternatively, you can use mini quick terminal connectors (lever wire connectors) to split the 12V supply. From there, route one connection to the Arduino and another to the buck converter. For the Arduino, it's recommended to use: *7-12V for an Arduino R3 via the VIN (+) and GND (-) pins or the barrel jack for convenience. *Higher voltage if using an Arduino R4, as it supports a broader input range. I also like to use the Sparkfun RedBoard for Arduino projects like this. Their barrel connector can handle 7-15v and the board itself is a good price and good quality. No matter what board you use, just follow the recommended power specs. When splitting power, make sure that your power supply provides enough current for all connected devices. I try to provide a power source with at least 20% more current capacity than my project requires to avoid overheating or instability. I hope this was helpful~ Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!

Yes, you can rotate the display by remapping the matrix's X and Y coordinates. I thought about splitting the 7 bands, with one set on the left and one on the right, taking advantage of the increased matrix height. This setup would give more distinct amplitude levels and might even look better visually. 👍

@ I agree, I think it would look better. Nice work, cool chip. Ever try using the sound reactive fork of the WLED software?

I just looked up the WLED project - very cool! There is lots of info on that site. I haven't seen this before but I'm going to check it out. Thanks for letting me know

@ Have fun! 👍👍

Hey there! No, a hobby-grade servo does not retain offset or centering adjustments once you remove the controlling signal. These servos are basically "dumb" actuators that rely entirely on PWM signal they receive to determine position. They don’t have memory or calibration storage that would allow them to remember a new zero point once you disconnect them. I beleve there are some high-end servos that you can program, but I don't have any. What you can do is set the servo arm manually. You can manually remove the servo arm and reattach it so that it points straight ahead at the desired command. This ensures that when that same "neutral" signal is applied in the future, the servo arm will be aligned as you set it. You can also setup a feedback System with encoders to restore the position you want. The servos I generally use are MG995, which does not have internal non-volatile memory. This means it cannot retain any position settings or offsets once it loses power or is disconnected from the Arduino.

Yes, you should be able to. I haven't tried it that way yet. 👍

switching the potentiometer with your RC receiver output probably will not work as intended, because the two signals are different types of inputs. Taking the three wires from where the potentiometer was (V+, GND, and the analog output) and just hook them to the receiver’s servo channel (signal, V+, GND), the Arduino’s analog input will not read a stable voltage. It would see a quick changing pulse. Attempting to read this directly as an analog input won’t give reliable results. The Arduino’s analogRead() is designed for steady DC voltages, not digital pulses. you’ll need to modify your Arduino code to read the pulse width of the RC signal. Once you interpret that pulse width as a control value, you should be able to drive your stepper motor.

@@BMonsterLaboratory Ok I'll keep searching, Thanks for taking the time to reply

@@NevesProjects you're welcome. I hope it works well for you! 👍

hey there! Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I have never repurposed speakers from and old TV into a newer TV, but I can tell you how I would start. In your current TV: When you take it apart, look for the built-in amplifier and it's power rating. If the TV doesn’t have a strong enough amplifier (common in cheap TVs), the speakers will sound weak, even if they are good-quality speakers. If this is the case, you should buy a better external amplifier. Even a small Class D amplifier can drive better speakers efficiently. Follow the wires from the speakers and find where they are soldered and/or plugged in to help you get an idea of what a replacement should look like. Observe how much space you are goin to have for your new speakers. Will the new speakers fit in the old space? My Samsung speakers were fairly low profile and the space was tight, making it difficult for many speakers to fit i that spot. You can mount the new speakers externally and even use your own amplifier for the new speakers if needed. You will also want to check the specs on the speakers for impedance in ohms and wattage. You want this to match so your new speakers don't damage the tv's amplifier. In the discarded TV: Check these speaker specs (Ohms and wattage). Most tv speakers are going to be around 4-8ohm, just make sure they are compatible with your current tv amplifier. Are the speakers in the discarded tv connected the same way they are in the current tv? This could determine how easily they can be integrated. As for the speakers, check for loose parts, cracks, or tears in the cones that indicate damage. And of course, a soundbar may be an easier option....but where's the fun in that? 😁 This isn't an absolute tutorial on what you should do, but I think it will get you started. I'm sure you'll do your own research along the way, which I encourage. There are numbers and specs on the back of most speakers, type these into google and try to locate a datasheet to give you more info. Good luck to you!

@@BMonsterLaboratory thanks a lot for the detailed guidance. I will follow your words. Definitely there is no fun plugging in a sound bar. Unless the sound bar is broken and I fix it, before I plug it. 😀😊

@@greatvedas 😂 I know what ya mean!

cool!

hey there! Try going to Tools > Board > NodeMCU 1.0 (ESP-12E Module) or whatever board you're using. Try goin to preferences in IDE and adding "arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json" to board URLs. in Arduino IDE go to preferences>Additional boards manager URLs: arduino.esp8266.com/stable/package_esp8266com_index.json make sure you have the CH340 driver installed. There are good instructions on how to do this at Sparkfun website - here-->learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all I just got 2 of my esp8266 boards out and they work fine with the code that was posted on Facebook. Of course, don't forget to add your network credentials in the code. 👍

hey there! These little soldering kits are for learning and they are very easy to mess up, so you did great! The pcb is very thin, cheap and easy to ruin with a soldering iron. if you want nice solder contact, remember to clean your tip frequently and use some solder paste. I love solder paste because it helps solder flow over the metal contacts evenly. I might get another Christmas tree and try again this year! 👍

@@BMonsterLaboratory I bought a second one, but before soldering I'd like to see on a breadboard if I can use different components to make it blink a bit slower.

@@Thomas_A_H slower blinking would like better.👍

@@BMonsterLaboratory I've just checked: The main portion of blinking doesn't come from the capacitors and transistors (they just seem to oscillate the voltage at the LEDs a bit), but from the LEDs itself. If I connect a LED to a 4.5V power supply with various resistors in series (lowest I've tried is 330Ω and I the LED fully lights up with values up to 10kΩ or maybe even more), the blinking speed and color (within certain ranges, when the resistor is too high, certain colors no longer appear) isn't dependent on the resistor value, but changes over time due to circuitry inside the LED. 😐 The full circuit still works at much lower voltages though, up to a point where there is only an oscillating dim red glow 🙂

hey there! Here's what I'm thinking. Is this what you want to do? The code controls a servo motor based on whether a laser is hitting a photoresistor. When a laser is pointed at the photoresistor, the photoresistor value exceeds a specific threshold. As a result, the servo motor moves to a new position. When the laser is not pointed at the LDR, the servo motor returns to its initial position. The PCA9685 servo driver is used to control the servo, which allows for multiple servos to be connected if needed. If i'm wrong, let me know. Sounds interesting!

@BMonsterLaboratory the problem I'm running into is the threshold. Idk how m3asure it or Calibrate it or whatever if so new to this but I ha e developed a HUGE passion in the recent weeks and I'm on a mission lol no retreat no surrender, learn this thing Inside and out and create some wild ish

@BMonsterLaboratory yes

@@danielrizzi1153 I have a XINGYHENG 175pcs 7Values 5mm Photoresistor (LDR) kit that I bought on Amazon about 5yrs ago. There are multiple values i this LDR kit. If you want to set up multiple targets, just pick one value and set the threshold values in your code. For instance, in this kit I would use only the GL5506 LDR for consistent calibration and uniform behavior. This LDR has a dark resistance between 2-6k ohm and a light resistance of 0.15M ohm. For a good threshold value, the resistance will be relatively high wihtout a laser 500-800 depending on the voltage and will drop significantly with a laser (200-400 range). The exact analog values will depend on the strength of your laser - you can see the values in real-time by watching the serial monitor. Use a voltage divider circuit toconnect the LDR to the analog pin on the Arduino. One end goes to 5v while the other end is connected to a 10k ohm resistor (to ground) - and the point between the resistor and LDR is connected to the analog input. You can search google images for LDR voltage divider circuit. For you code, you may need to add something like this if you're using, for example, 3 LDR's. The threshold in this example is set at 500. I hope this was helpful! #include <Adafruit_PWMServoDriver.h> // Create the PCA9685 PWM driver object Adafruit_PWMServoDriver pwm = Adafruit_PWMServoDriver(); // Photoresistor pins (using GL5506) const int LDR_PIN1 = A0; // GL5506-1 const int LDR_PIN2 = A1; // GL5506-2 const int LDR_PIN3 = A2; // GL5506-3 // Single threshold value for all GL5506 sensors int threshold = 500; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); pwm.begin(); pwm.setPWMFreq(60); // Set PWM frequency to 60 Hz for servos // Set initial servo positions pwm.setPWM(0, 0, 300); // Servo 1 on channel 0 pwm.setPWM(1, 0, 300); // Servo 2 on channel 1 pwm.setPWM(2, 0, 300); // Servo 3 on channel 2 } void loop() { // Read values from GL5506 photoresistors int ldrValue1 = analogRead(LDR_PIN1); int ldrValue2 = analogRead(LDR_PIN2); int ldrValue3 = analogRead(LDR_PIN3); // Print the values for debugging Serial.print("LDR1: "); Serial.print(ldrValue1); Serial.print(" | LDR2: "); Serial.print(ldrValue2); Serial.print(" | LDR3: "); Serial.println(ldrValue3); // Control Servo 1 based on GL5506-1 if (ldrValue1 > threshold) { pwm.setPWM(0, 0, 450); // Move servo 1 to a new position when laser hits } else { pwm.setPWM(0, 0, 300); // Return servo 1 to the original position } // Control Servo 2 based on GL5506-2 if (ldrValue2 > threshold) { pwm.setPWM(1, 0, 450); // Move servo 2 to a new position when laser hits } else { pwm.setPWM(1, 0, 300); // Return servo 2 to the original position } // Control Servo 3 based on GL5506-3 if (ldrValue3 > threshold) { pwm.setPWM(2, 0, 450); // Move servo 3 to a new position when laser hits } else { pwm.setPWM(2, 0, 300); // Return servo 3 to the original position } delay(100); }

awesome! thanks for leaving this comment 👍👍

hi there! You should not use a 3.7v battery to power your nano 33 IoT board. Arduino boards with a VIN pin are designed to use a voltage regulator to step down to the board's operating voltage (3.3V in this case). The regulator typically requires a few volts above 3.3V to regulate properly, which is why a minimum of 6V should be used for stable operation. A 7-9v battery would probably be the best for most projects. I would go with a 7.4v 2600mah battery for something like you see in this video - small size, good capacity, and rechargeable! Here's a link to the data sheet where you can look up power specs for the board docs.arduino.cc/resources/datasheets/ABX00027-datasheet.pdf I hope that helps!

ya, me too! It's a bit catchy 👍

for this video I am using a breadboard power supply to totally power the motor. I don't run motors or LED strands through Arduino. I think max current on this breadboard power supply is 700-1amp, will have to double check. but ya, the motor is powered from the breadboard to prevent current from destroying the Arduino.

You will need to download the Liquidcrystal library "#include <LiquidCrystal.h>" You can alter the onscreen text to whatever you like. This is the code from the Elegoo Mega kit: //www.elegoo.com //2016.12.9 /* LiquidCrystal Library - Hello World Demonstrates the use a 16x2 LCD display. The LiquidCrystal library works with all LCD displays that are compatible with the Hitachi HD44780 driver. There are many of them out there, and you can usually tell them by the 16-pin interface. This sketch prints "Hello World!" to the LCD and shows the time. The circuit: * LCD RS pin to digital pin 7 * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 8 * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 9 * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 10 * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 11 * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 12 * LCD R/W pin to ground * LCD VSS pin to ground * LCD VCC pin to 5V * 10K resistor: * ends to +5V and ground * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3) Library originally added 18 Apr 2008 by David A. Mellis library modified 5 Jul 2009 by Limor Fried (www.ladyada.net) example added 9 Jul 2009 by Tom Igoe modified 22 Nov 2010 by Tom Igoe This example code is in the public domain. www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/LiquidCrystal */ // include the library code: #include <LiquidCrystal.h> // initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins LiquidCrystal lcd(7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12); void setup() { // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows: lcd.begin(16, 2); // Print a message to the LCD. lcd.print("Hello, World!"); } void loop() { // set the cursor to column 0, line 1 // (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0): lcd.setCursor(0, 1); // print the number of seconds since reset: lcd.print(millis() / 1000); }

cool. They're awesome!

sure you can! Just make sure your pin definitions in the code match the pins you use on the uno. 👍

i used MG995 servos in this video. If you need more torque you can use MG996R - they have a higher operating current. 👍

I hate that for you. I know you have been patient with them in trying to figure this out. Wish I could help

@BMonsterLaboratory Thank you. Never even dreamt that La Crosse Technology was such a dubious entity. We learn every day.

Yes, that's a good idea. I have a IMAYCC 0-24V Adjustable Power Supply. It does an excellent job of supply enough power for multiple projects. Split the various converters and your problem is solved. If you get a buck convert, be sure to get one rated above the current you need. They typically operate at 85-90% efficiency. I like to leave 20% headroom for current so I don't overheat. I hope that helps 👍

hey there! i posted it to facebook. just search #servoduino on Facebook and look for the post. check the comment section. 👍

Hey there! I haven't tried it but you should be able to. You should consider tv picture quality, glare, contrast...etc. You may want to look into doing this with a raspberry pi for more processor power. 👍

@@BMonsterLaboratory Thanks

put your own electronics in there...maybe arduino nano or a smaller microcontroller and make it a sound effects egg. That would be cool! nice find 👍😎

it's not all that noticeable at first. I had to use a sscrew driver 💪

hey there! The lock is from Amazon - Tegg 1 PC 2 Inches Stainless Steel Door Latch Slide Barrel Door Lock Sliding Catch Bolt Latch for Bathroom Bathroom Toilet Door BedroomBedroom The wire between the servo and lock is just a bent paper clip...high tech, right? 😆 You could also look into the electromagnetic solenoid locks - they may be more efficient.

Thanks!! I appreciate the kind words and sub 👍💪