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My problem of filament not sticking which is different but still similar is a bad MC board.

How well does the new filter work for you? Still smell any odor?

Hello! At what humidity percentage according to the drybox can you start printing?

Did first ever Bambu ASA print today with P1S. Textured plate failed away at 30% due to adhesion, because I didn't remember to use the High Temp smooth PEI plate and glue I bought specifically for engineering filament. 2nd print worked perfectly with the roll on glue and PEI plus drying the filament at 70° for 6 hours

Thank you for sharing. My friend lent me his X1-C (a huge upgrade from an Ender 3 V2) to help me speed up my prototyping, I've had it for 1 week so far, and I've been printing Bambu ASA filaments (gray) with a 10mm diameter base. I had to use a brim for it, and adjusted the Support/object first layer gap to .01mm. I've upped the bed temp to 95*C, and changed the cooling setting to no cooling for the first 5 layers. I use the smooth side of the PEI, I use hairspray for adhesion (which I saw next to your IPAs), and I have had 99% success rate with my prints, even with a 4/5 AMS humidity level. I hope that helps.

I have 2 suggestions: 1. Try the Biqu Panda Cryogrip Glacier plate, 2. Wham Bam PEX plate.

Cheers Mate. I didn't know you could upgrade the gears as well. Food for thought

I'm assuming you can now leave that hardened nozzle fitted and print with normal filament and maybe swap the filaments back and forth ?

and they say asa prints better than abs what a load of shit

so frustrating when the plates fail... thanks for this I will try it. For ASA its a pain, but super high plate temp 95-110, door closed, fans OFF and the vision miner stuff works but still a full plate span can still lift up. I use lots of brim and cross my fingers.

What about a Panda Touch lol

gluestick

did you notice any print quality improvement? I've got some PLA filamets that are +2yrs old and I might need this device

I have real good luck with the PC version of Magigoo. (They don't make an ASA version.) and of course heating the compartment a bit helps. You can add a PTC heater, on the side. (Amazon, Mini Portable Room Office). Its about 100W.

do you have a link to the case

But, did you try unplugging it and plugging it back in?

I haven't printed with ASA, but for PLA and PETG, all I've ever done is wipe with 91% IPA before every print and that's done the trick for me. I think the key is wiping before every print. How often were you wiping the bed?

I print with Polymaker ASA on my Bambu X1C with PEI textured plate. I use 100°C on the bed on first layer then reduce to 90° thereafter and have never had an issue with it not adhering. I do spray a light coating of Suave extra hold. Not sure how much that helps, but I suppose it could be a benefit.

I’m new to 3D printing, I recently got a P1S, great printer! Do you have links or part number for the hot end to get to print CF? Thank you!

I had that problem and changed to an engineer plate with glue. It worked fine.

Thank you.

I have desiccant containers in the center of my AMS's that hold $2.49 thermometer/hygrometers, and I highly recommend them. So far as I can tell, the 1-5 readout is in increments of 20% RH, but I much prefer having the hygrometer tell me more precisely how humid the AMS is. They bottom out at 10%, but oh well.

why the adapters for the sunlu? i thouht that was only for the cardboard spools

I ordered an X1 carbon recently. Still havent managed to print anything though as it arrived destroyed. Unfortunately not heard from Bambu labs for 4 days now :(

I thought the P1S could handle abrasive filaments, right out of the box...?

Very cool

Kinda suspicious they’re clearing out stock at these prices. I’d be a bit worried something might break soon.

What’s up with the clearance sale of old equipment? 😄😃😀

their big printer is rumored to drop this fall

so there is discount for 2yrs old printer before they launch new one? that's not black friday but just normal clearance, lol!

Thank you for the heads up !!! Btw they are adding a free gift with the A1 combo and the price is about 40 bucks less. Happy shopping and printing !!!

Great video. Which slicer settings did you adjust? Note, I’m using the same setup - P1S, filament dryer, Overture TPU, Bambu slicer. 😊

Hey!, how is this dry box fairing. considering getting it.

nicely explained, I thought I would be more challenging than just pausing the print in the slicer

It says on the product page that it needs glue.

I only print in ASA, I keep the bed at 105-107 depending on how thick the object is. Seldom have to use anything but a clean plate, but sometimes use a little hairspray, and a brim for more difficult pieces. No part cooling except for bridges.

First layer temps, speeds, and z-offset are also very specific parameters. Most don't realize that the whole plastic 'shrinkage' thing applies during the print itself and is the root cause of most layer adhesion, when build-plate cleanliness has been looked after, the hotter you print the more it shrinks(and then it shrinks more proportional to how cold you bed is, especially if you have it below the glass transition temperature!), so it delaminates off the bed, find a minimum viable first-layer temp for the nozzle. Your bed SHOULD NOT be far below the glass transition temp.. for PLA it's ~65c, for (pure)ASA it's ~100c. X1C is rated to go up to 120c for a reason. Also the SPEED at which you go influences more than most realize, by going slower first layer you are letting it relieve more stresses locally instead of building them globally by going fast and linking the pieces together is long spanning stretches that are left to cool to an equilibrium temperature of expansion all at once. For ABS I've often found that it really wants a bit of extra z-squish, usually ~0.12 - 0.15 for quality first layer adhesion. For higher temperature materials like PC and ASA, I'd imagine it's very similar.

I had heard only great things about ASA- “It’s ABS but better!” I print a lot with ABS so I was eager to try it. I have found ASA to be worse than ABS in most respects. I tried both Bambu and Polymaker ASA on my X1C. I had adhesion issues and MASSIVE warping issues (much worse than I ever have with ABS). Tried tons of setting, bed adhesives etc and then gave up. ABS (mostly Bambu brand at this point) works great for me so I’ve just stuck with it. Big fan of the new ABS-GF as well.

I've been printing for a while now. There's probably nothing that anyone could tell you that you haven't already tried. But, just for the record, I have found that while using a PEI plate there is a direct correlation between adhesion and heat. If I have an adhesion problem, I can either use the grammar school glue sticks (works just fine), or, increase the bed heat. Having said all this, I've not yet printed ASA. I doubt that a brim or raft would adhere any better than the model. For cleaning, there doesn't seem to be any advantage to using anything other than dish soap and water. Cleanliness to the point of being sterile simply isn't necessary and I'm very glad to know that because I went down that rabbit hole many times before I realized than clean enough is clean enough. More heat and/or glue of your choice. PS: My purge strips nearly always lift right off. That's the nature of PEI: when it cools it lets go. Thanks for your feedback. I'll order some of that glue.

I'm using Elegoo ASA and the Dark Moon Satin build plate in my BBL X1C and haven't had any issues. (110 first layer, 95 for hte following layers)

I use the same printers and same plates on all of them. Use Polymaker ASA exclusively and bed temp @100c. I usually bump bed temps on my Bambus by 10 degrees when I use a textured build plate as well. When I have adhesion issues I wash the bed in hot water and dish soap. The Vision Miner Nanopolymer always works as well! Also didn't see you mention but keep the door closed.

I think its the texture PEI, I have better luck with a smooth bed and glue stick. I dont like the uneven texture glue stick leaves on the bottom but its better than a warped or failed print. I run the bed at 105C and the filament between 250-270 depending on the part and speed.

FYI, ive only used polymaker ASA. 99% of the time it sticks. Used both textured and smooth plates with good results at 100C, when dropped to 95C it won't stick without glue. Highly recommend polylite ASA

I thought ASA was supposed to be the easy print ABS

I got a sample of that nano polymer stuff back in like 2019 or whenever it was that Joel did a video on vision miner and I love that stuff. I started using it for everything. I wish I knew what was in that stuff because its not cheap but at the same time I dont mind buying it because it lasts a long time. You can refresh it by using like 50% iso propyl to damp a paper towel and then just kinda wipe it around. Anyways not sure why this was in my recommended randomly but here I am and I am happy to see a product I use not just be a placebo for me.

Thanks for sharing this! It was probably beginner's luck, but I had great luck on my P1S with my first 2 spools of FlashForge ASA (blue and white) using Kroger purple glue stick. Bed was at 100 and the hot end at 260. Haven't had any ASA or ABS (Hatchbox) warp off the plate yet. I did purchase that same Nano like you did but while waiting for shipping, I tried the glue stick. I'll shift over to the Nano either when I run out of glue stick or things stop sticking. One interesting thing when I wash my build plate... I used to dry with a freshly washed dish towel. But PLA stopped sticking. Think I figured out that we dry our laundry with a dryer sheet, and maybe that was affecting the adhesion. I now dry the plate with Bounty, and the PLA is back to sticking again. Maybe a coincidence.

I wanted to add yes I tried a brim as well. Nothing wrong with a brim, but it still doesn't increase tackiness of the filament to the bed

Do you have to upgrade the gears as well as the hot end? I only purchased the hot end so far. I'm brand new to this my printer hasn't arrived yet so lots to learn.

Thank you sir..

it's a fantastic little machine, imo would be perfect if the camera wasn't terrible. I use orca slicer with it and the experience is fantastic.