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I usually leave the screen protector on until it gets scratched enough. Maybe get a few more years out of something. I am frugal, as stated in other videos, I don't throw things away if I might have a use for it. 😁

I had checked all the connections on the replacement unit before installation. This still resulted in this failure. I do think it is either the wire is too small or the connector doesn't properly clamp the connection.

First failed unit had a ferrule on PV input wire from the IMO that I installed. Second failure did not have a ferrule on the PV input wire I installed. On the replacement unit that has now failed, I removed the entire front cover, tightened every terminal on the manufacturer side and pulled the breaker to tighten those terminals. It is possible the manufacturer ferrule is at fault. It could be it doesn't hold high contact or is overcrimped and thus cuts some of the strands.

@@doczwy8143 it's also important, ESPECIALLY when not using a ferrule, to tighten, then wiggle the wire significantly which will loosen it, then tighten, then wiggle, etc., for several rounds until it no longer tightens after wiggling. If they did not do this properly, the connection will become too loose over time especially as the wire cycles through hot and cool, and then the loose connection will overheat.

So it's possible the manufacturer didn't do that properly.

You probably know this already though. Your installation looks quite nice!

@@theturtle32 The distributor EG4 is looking into this. It is possible the connector is faulty and may require replacement.

Come over to the DIY Solar Forum and read up on ferrules in the discussions. I had ferrules on my side of the connection and still have ferrules on the other charge controller but many blame the manufacturer installed ferrule or any ferrule for a failure. I'm still on the fence, I prefer a ferrule.

Original video is linked in the description. In that video I mention checking all terminals inside the unit for tightness.

I don't know about that, the photos shown on the DIY Solar Forum where Victron spring clamps failed indicate the Victron might be worse.

@@doczwy8143 installation error vs manufacturing error. I’d much rather blame myself for screwing up vs set up for failure by the manufacturer.

Wire direct and bypass the connection at this point. The connection is very dangerous and I will be bypassing the connections for both PV wires. The battery cable connections might have enough contact area and mass to dissipate any heat.

Not that I can see.

The manufacturer wire from the connector to PCB is 14AWG with 105C insulation. I show the wire in the first video which is linked in the description. This is the second failure, same problem. Only a series string per SCC and panel ISC is 13.43A, Imp is 12.67A. I have 10AWG THWN 105C on my side of the SCC. I checked with amp clamp per request of a forum member and it was 10A.

@@doczwy8143 I find it interesting that the block is scorched around both terminal screws. If it was me I wouldn't trust the block. If I were to get a brand new unit from EG4 I would use a sharpie to put a registration mark across each screw to see if the yare backing out from heat stress. I guess I would also check to make sure they were tight before I marked them.

@@RussellTreleaven I'm waiting to hear from EG4 on this problem but will be wiring direct from the IMO to the circuit board long term and bypassing the connector. I showed this in the first failure video.

I have SPD's at the array. Current on the PV circuit is max 14A. Resistance generates heat and we can see what had heat. Voltage spikes over 500V would cause failure of the MPPT, not the wire.

It was removed and a fan put in the hole. I showed that in the last part of the video. As for adding panels, I'll cover that in another video.

@@doczwy8143 looking forward for that, installing a mini split (pioneer) this weekend then removing the roof AC thereafter

I have JK 2A active balancing in both Luyuan battery boxes and will be using those in my shop battery bank. The JK 2A active balance work very well for balancing. The Batrium is better than many passive balancers with 0.75A balance current, however it won't perform initial top balance very well unless charge current is very low. I'm in the process of building the shop system, I have about 3 different videos in progress covering the build.

About $2000 USD for cells, box, BMS/screen, shipping. $1456 for cells, box was $332, BMS screen $150.

At full output the load is about 20 to 25% lower, however notice the temp drop in the 15 minutes of mini split run time. More btu's moved with less watts consumed = mini split way more efficient. On the AUTO setting, the inverter mini split will consume less power after initial cooldown as the fans and compressor will run only as fast as needed to maintain the temperature. This is a huge advantage when running off solar. As for a 2024 roof inverter heat pump, the cost will be quite substantial (anything with RV in front of it is extra cost) and specs such as SEER 2 will not normally be listed because RV rated falls under different standards than residential.

No, I always have my camper in a shed when I'm not using it. I purposely made the unit sit behind the camper with nothing sticking past the side and the brace on the side so it had some protection.

Ceiling cassette or one way? I'm assuming ceiling cassette as the one way is 230-240V. Either one will require a box to hang it down from the ceiling or you will have to cut a large hole in the roof and build up the opening for the cassette height. A RV roof air or RV ventilation fan hole is 14x14 standard. The 9K recessed ceiling cassette is 23.5x23.5 and 10.5 high. This most likely will require some work on the roof material to get a good seal. If headroom isn't a problem, you could just build a box down from the ceiling to house the cassette. This would be my preferred option for a cassette. You would probably want to cover the lines and don't forget you need a drain line somewhere. It might be easiest to install in the rear bedroom area and build down from the ceiling. I have a 12K floor mounted Pioneer in my living room. It works well. Some of the floor mounted units can be ceiling mounted like the Flex but those are 230-240V. The indoor unit for the floor mounted is not small however. But it is an option. If I had more wall space in the camper near the floor I would have maybe used one. Would have been easier to run the lines.

I looked at Cruise n Comfort, price is a big con. I used to converse with a custom truck camper builder on FB and he used those units but his campers also started at $150K. With my unit on the back of the rig, it does free up more precious RV roof real estate for more panels. I actually prefer it there when in wooded areas compared to the roof air. I'm surprised the roof air didn't have a destroyed cover with some of the trails I've been on. With just the inverter box on the back it did look somewhat odd, this certainly balances it out. I've seen many of the expedition vehicle builders mounting a heat pump unit on the back side too, they have side entry which would be even better but I work with what I have and make it work. Back to the Cruise n Comfort systems, I looked at the power draw on the 24V unit(33A x 26V= 858W) One question is whether that draw is the same all the time, my guess is the fans are not inverter type but it appears the compressors might be. If the fans are not inverter type, then the battery draw would be close to the roof air I removed as the fans run wide open all the time (with 3 speeds). The roof unit I removed with just the fans running had a load of about 1100W on high, shown when I first turned the unit on. Later the compressor kicked in with another 500W. Compare that to any inverter heat pump that will only turn fans and compressors at the needed rpm to maintain temp after initial cool down. That is a huge advantage when it comes to power consumption. I have 2 mini split heat pumps in my house and installing 2 in my shop. I'm sold on the technology.

@@doczwy8143 Ok. Thank u for responding. This was very informative, and I appreciate the insight. Gives me a lot to think about and (re)consider.👍

Agreed!

I decided to experiment and see if it makes a difference. Considering the low amperage on the 10 AWG of less than 13 amps I doubt it will be a problem. If it was more than 20 amps I might consider it. If the wires at the IMO actually were heat damaged instead of the adhesive from the tape, I'd have removed any ferrules. Many people use wire nuts to join PV wires without a problem, I can't see the ferrules causing a problem. I have a thermal camera, I could check with it but I doubt it will show any heat. This failure was due to a loose connection, most likely on the manufacturer side. On the replacement unit I checked the connections internally and retorqued if needed before installation.

Could be increased resistance due to the ferrule. I'l be removing the ferrules in the IMO. Thank you for the kind comment, I like things neat and orderly when it comes to electrical, properly grounded and protected.

Contact Signature Solar, they will send one out. I think it is still free.

I've seen spade connections internally on the LV6548 PV terminals and have seen the same on the 6500EX.These are only carrying 12 to 13A at peak PV power, I've seen blower motors run for 30 years with 30A running thru a spade connector.

We had the discussion on the DIY solar forum and the consensus is that with fine stranded wire use a ferrule. With something like THWN with a set screw type terminal, use a ferrule. With THWN and a clamp type terminals like the IMO has and this MPPT, do not use a ferrule due to the low number of strands. I do believe the low stranded wire will have more surface contact area with the clamp type terminals compared to using a ferrule with low stranded wire, thus less resistance and less heating effect.

Amperage is about 13A at full peak PV power, the wire is 10 AWG THWN with 105°C insulation from array. I showed the wire inside the charge controller, that was 14 AWG with 105°C insulation. Even 14 AWG would be sufficient for the current of 13A. The failure is due to resistance of the connection, my thoughts are either the factory assembled connection wasn't tight enough, the plastic for the connector cracked or the connections loosened over time due to heating cycles.

If it was loose, it would have been on the factory side.

I was quite surprised with this failure. I do think I will be removing all the ferrules on the THWN wires. Every connection I made was tight, the factory connections not quite tight as mine. I think this failure was on the factory side.

My 6500EX's were returned and replacements sent, the replacements were worse and the replacements were sent back. They refunded my money. This was just before the store credit to return the 6500EX's towards purchase of EG4 6000XP's or 18Kpv inverters. If you have the 6500EX's, take the store credit towards those units

My 6500EX's were returned and replacements sent, the replacements were worse and the replacements were sent back. They refunded my money. This was just before the store credit to return the 6500EX's towards purchase of EG4 6000XP's or 18Kpv inverters. If you have the 6500EX's, take the store credit towards those units.

Interesting fix. I'd still do the firmware update, it has been 9 months since I installed the first charge controller and the only issue was the false code setting. Since then these have worked flawlessly. Any 500VOC charge controller compared to the EG4 MPPT is more than double the cost per watt of capacity.

I didn't change anything for settings. The LV6548's behave as if there isn't any PV coming in. This summer I will be adding another 4Kw of PV close to my house and will be using 2 of the MPPT's on the LV6548's. I will set charging voltages for bulk and float the same as the EG4 MPPT's.

@@doczwy8143 So you are running panels (8s) to each charge controller and both charge controllers to the battery bank? I was wondering if you are splitting your battery bank up for each charge controller?

@@ronnie1863 Yes, 8S to each charge controller and both charge charge controllers on the complete bank. You can add as many charge controllers to a battery bank as you want. You can even have different settings so charge current will taper down where one charge controller is set at a lower bulk/float voltage than another.